Elba & Sardinia September 12th to October 11th 2023

Elba https://www.visittuscany.com//en/areas/elba-and-tuscan-islands /

Sardinia https://www.italia.it/en/sardinia

Sep. 12. Tuesday / Stuttgart to Cavalese

It was already 10am when I was ready, but then different small things came up and it was 10:30 by the time I left.

Dropped a WIWO magazine off at Willys.

Filled the car in Senden at the Inhofer furniture store with Diesel. Stopped at Heimertingen for 1 salmon trout.

Next stop should have been at Dietmannsried, but the access road after the exit off the highway to the Cafe/Bakery I had in mind, was blocked. Purchased a Horseradish Sause for the trout at Aldi and went on to the next Highway entry point. From there through to the Austrian boarder where I purchased a 2 weeks highway sticker. Passed through Austria without stopping.

While on the Autostrada in Italy I stopped for a coffee to stay awake. I was impressed by a photo of the Stella Group. A stunning and impressive granite formation that I will have to visit in the future https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group   https://www.sudtirol.com/en/south-tyrol.htm

Had a small problem now for the next 100km or so. I bought a vignette for the Austrian motorways but my Google Maps kept taking me along the local country roads. Became suspicious and checked my settings. Lo and behold, “no toll roads” had been set.  That ended up costing me an hour.😱😭

As I had to find out the hard way, I had booked my hotel in Bolzano exactly 4 weeks later😱😱😱 for 12.11. Now I had to book something new. Of course, cheap 50€&45km southeast of Bolzano. Hotel Panorama https://www.panoramacavalese.it in a village called Cavalese. I had to cross the Kalterer See or Lago di Caldaro Region to reach it. It’s a beautiful wine region. On Booking you can’t see the details as well as on the map. It was the exact same situation as 1 year ago. Didn’t see that there were donkey trails in this beautiful wine region. They were steep and narrow. I’m already afraid of the way back tomorrow😂

With a caravan or motorhome, I would have gotten stuck on such roads. I arrived just in time for dinner. It was a natural schnitzel with vegetables and salad from the buffet. It included also a Crema Catalán and 1/2 liter of house wine. You’re on vacation I thought. Tomorrow breakfast is at 7:30a.m. Maybe I can meet with Sven. They are at a campsite just north of Piombino, from where I will cross to Elba. It’s practically on the way. Should be enough time for a beer.

 Sep. 13. Wednesday / Calvese to Lacona

Breakfast at 07:15. Check out at 8am. Straight downhill towards the highway and on to Trentino, Verona, Modena, Bologna and Florenz. By that time, I realized that it would be a very short stop to meet with Sven. Did not want to get in a stressful situation at the Port and opted against a visit. Approx. 1:30h early I arrived at Piombino, had time to get Diesel and parked on the Moby Ferry Line pier. All happened on time. The crossing to the island of Elba just took 1 hour. I went to the Coop shopping center and purchased some Water and Eggs. I arrived at my Tallinucci camping site http://www.campingtallinucci.it/ in Lacona https://visitelba.info/en/beaches/lacona-beach/ at 6:30pm and started immediately with the setup of my Camper Van with its awing and securing it for any heavy wind situation. Hammering done with a too small of a hammer onto my peg one neighbor felt sorry for me. Gave me a “real” hammer and a strong peg which he told me I could purchase at the kiosk on site. The camp site was set up by using rocks and sand. Most of my pegs were anker screws. Used a battery powered tool to get them into the ground. I know now that it survived all winds that hit the camp site. Unfortunately, I realized, that I had forgotten to pack the specialty coffee pads for my coffee machine. Still within the valid patent time therefore not available at shops but just at Nestlé. Later I met with Gabi & Klaus and some of their friend which I met last year also. Had some drinks and was invited for dinner.

The Flag of Elba was created during Napolean’s times in power and shown the first time when arriving on Elba at the highest point of the Port town of Portoferraio – Forte Falcone – May 4th 1814.

Sep. 14. Thursday / Lacona

Slept very well. Decided to just have water before starting to ride my E-Bike. Did not find the Parque Ferme of the Storic Rally Elba at Porto Azzurro. No mayor stop there. Preferred it at the Open Air Acquarilli Bar https://instagram.com/acquarilli_bar . It sits on a ridge that reaches into the sea. All “seats and similar items” are just placed on the soil. Decoration, possibly off the junkyard, completed the impression. Drinks were sold through a window of a Caravan. No toilets and not many bushes. If the whole setup was legal🤷‍♀️ Nobody cared, but had fun. Later in the evening Rüdi one of the friends played his magic with one 4pound cutlet (€36) and a 3-pound T-Bone. He got it to the point, and it tasted wonderful. No BBQ sauce needed. Again, wine and beer was sufficiently available.

Sep. 15. Friday

Today was Marketday in Portoferraio. I was in search of the Ruggeri Delicatessen shop. Found it but felt it was too small compared to my memory of last year’s visit. I also visited partially the old town. With the goodies from Ruggeri, I returned to the girls and while walking the market again a bit, I also purchased a Tuscan Salami. Back at the camp site, we went to have a late lunch with the goodies and some wine I purchased. Also threw in some delicatessen that I brought with me in the Van. A lazy afternoon and evening followed. A ½ a BBQ Chicken from a food truck on site with fried veggies were the choices for dinner.

Sep. 16. Saturday

Today’s “Storic Rally Elba” stage passed by right in front of the Camp Site https://www.rallyelbastorico.com/. The drivers had to drive through twice in the morning and also in the afternoon. Klaus and I watched it twice. I made my photos and videos from two different positions. The second position was better, as after a straight section ended, where we were positioned, with a 90° left corner. Only one driver had to do a 360° to get back into the proper direction. One had a flat tire. We could watch them changing the complete wheel and at the same time refresh our skill. All in all, a nice experience. Next time no more photos. Around 7pm we had dinner within the Stella Mare Campground. It was a 20 minutes’ walk http://www.stellamare.it/ . It was a weekend. Nicole, a longtime camper here, was able to get us into Dal Capitano https://www.stellamare.it/de/restaurant/ . A nice location with views over the bay and also good service and food. The camp sites here are all up hill and on terraces. Many with nice views but always a walk down hill to the beach.

Sep. 17. Sunday

Slept quite long today. Possibly the walks and alcohol last night might have tired me. In the meantime, my morning routine included to first go to the camp kiosk and get myself 2 cups of a very good Cappuccino for @ €1,70. No need to have a coffee machine with me in the future. Just costs me space. Changed into my hiking gear and walked towards Lacona. There was a small market in full swing. I passed it and it was around 12:10 when I started my walk circular hike up hill on the Capo di Stelle. Sometime small paths with dense shrubs, followed by quite nice and wide prepared forestry roads. By 2:25pm I was back at its foot and the White Hole (was not my idea😉) https://whiteholebyzello.business.site Refilled my system with 2 beers and a sandwich. In the coming days I want to go a different route by bike if possible. On the walk back to my camp site I purchased some BBQed chicken wings and legs as well as steamed and seasoned veggies. This for dinner after a nap till 6pm. Later I refilled my stock on Sardinian Ichnusa Beer and went on to meet up with friends again. No more food for me today.

Sep. 18. Monday

All day it was unsure if it would be raining or not. Around 3pm I concluded I don’t care anymore and saddled my bike. The goal was to get over the hill to the airport and finally to Procchio https://www.virtualelba.com/country-locality-elba/procchio/ . It’s a bay like here in Lacona just smaller but with nice sandy beaches. There was quite a number Bars and Restaurants to feed the hungry and the thirsty. The ride was just about 22km long and no problem for me nor for my battery. Had dinner (Omelet) next to my Van under the awning. It was still quite humid. Walked the beach a bit. The strong wind and waves had eroded the beach and had pushed seaweed onto the beach edge.

Sep. 19. Tuesday

Another cloudy day. I was in biking mode again. I left on my bike for Capoliveri https://www.visittuscany.com/en/towns-and-villages/capoliveri/ . A 250m increase. The route provided by Komoot was getting me into trouble as a nice path changed to a small and steep uphill dirt track between scrubs and bushes. Once up on the hill and the touristy town, I walked it in search of a t-shirt made of synthetic fibers with a nice print. I was unsuccessful but was able to get myself 3 large and hard but ripe peaches. Later at Cafe Rodriguez 2 Birra Moretti “La Zero” beers and a nice mixed salad. For dinner we went later to the Cavallino Rosso Pizzeria www.facebook.com/CAVALLINOROSSOLACONA . Had a lovely bouillabaisse like dish “Mare Caldo” for €13 and pasta Tortellini Ragu €9 with a glass of Ichnusa -unfiltered for €11. All😋

Sep. 20. Wednesday

Got my 2 Cappuccinos again. Stayed closed to my Van until after 2pm when the weather calmed down. Until then it was quite wet. But from there on it was a getting better by the hour, so to speak. However, the clouds stayed with us. Got into my Sardinian tour book and had also a nap. Late afternoon I walked with the group of friends 50m or so and had a drink or two at the Beach Club il Cantone https://www.facebook.com/beachclubilcantone Dinner followed at the Van. A few slices of Tuscany Salami followed by stewed Beef Cheeks with rice and a beer or two. By now it looked as if tomorrow would be a nicer day. Met acquaintances from Gabi & Klaus, Richard & Christa from Bavaria as well as Peter & Edith from CH that I remembered from last year.

Sep. 21. Thursday

Was on my bike again. Going on SP30 from Lacona to where it meets the SP26. Took it and turned right after the Golf course and followed the road to Schiopparello and the SP32. Before and now up hill there were nice photo opportunities towards Portoferraio. Passed the Volterraio Fortress below www.museiarcipelago.it/en/musei/fortezza-del-volterraio  At 327m altitude I took some time to rest and also take some photos towards Rio Marina where a ferries from the mainland arrived. In the background the Island of Corsica. Also over the bay towards Portoferraio. From here downhill to Rio nell’Elba www.elbalink.co.uk/elba/rio-nell-elba  . Had a beer (Messina) and a warm sandwich at Bar di Sotto at Piazza del Popolo https://www.facebook.com/people/Bar-di-Sotto/100063043491527/ Before I left I visited the church and saw 2 modern pieces of Art showing Jesus on the cross. Very unusual. During my stroll through the village, I had a view to a port to which I thought I was going to after l was back on my bike, when choosing the roads, I did. It was not the case. I found out a short time later, that I was on my way to Porto Azzurro. By then I was not in the mood anymore to go back up hill and down to the sea level just to later return the same way – uphill again. It was Rio Marina. I put it onto my list “to visit” on Elba. I had one more stop at the Bar Acquarilli described already in my notes of September 14th. Today Rüdi had organized 2 Ribeye’s again. Similar in weight as the other day. Both were excellent again and together with the salads and drinks it was a fantastic and entertaining ending of the day.

Sep. 22. Friday

As last Friday we left at 10 to 10 and were in Nicol’s Van on the way to the market in Portoferraio. I was looking for some short trousers and some t-shirts for the kids. I was unsuccessful with both. Instead, I walk the city a bit closer to the Harbour. Saw the La Centrale Gourmet Place and went downstairs of it, to the Eurospin Supermarket. I enjoyed to get a closer look at the items offered. Purchased hat I thought was a of 6 small wine bottles. Later I found out it was a bag in a box filled with a red wine. Once the grocery and food shopping was done, we drove home and arrived just as it started to rain. Spend the time in/near my Van. Ate 2 of the 4 chicken legs and some veggies that I had purchased at the Eurospin, had a few nips of red wine and went into the Van and read my messages because I had forgotten to take the phone with me to the market. It looks as if the weather does not improve much in the coming hours. The rain stopped and I decided then not to get ½ chicken but would just eat my 2 chicken legs left over and the veggies instead, while streaming the “NUHR” Show and having a few drinks with it. The scene of that moment is the only photo I took today. That’s what happens if one forgets its phone or camera😁

Sep. 23. Saturday

Woke up early and it looked like we would get a beautiful day. A clear view towards the Island of Montecristo. And yes, that’s the one everybody knows from the books or movies “The Count of Monte Cristo” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montecristo . Early on I decided to have another bike ride again. Pomonte https://www.infoelba.com/discovering-elba/municipalities-towns/marciana/pomonte was the goal. Another try to establish the max. possible distance of my bike/battery in a hilly area as on Elba. All went well. Had a beer there, looked on towards Corsica straight ahead from where I sat on a sea wall with my beer. Looking back towards Lacona I saw some dark clouds and felt it was time to turn around. By the time I was in Marina del Campo I had used about 2,5 meaning 50% of my 5 line battery capacity indicator. By now the rain that I saw earlier at Seccheto in the sea had reached land and the roads were partially wet. Pulled my Rain jacket over and went up hill towards the Passo del Monumento at 253m with the highest motor support. From there downhill, the jacket stopped the cold air reaching my wet t-shirt. Later while on the campground, it started raining a bit more seriously but stopped at around 4pm. By 5.30pm we met and left for Capoliveri and the Restaurante Oasi, Via Silvio Pellico 4, +39 0565 968841. We had to circumference the whole village to find a parking spot. I had a Tuna & Bean with onion salade, flat pasta with wild boar ragu, followed by a sea bass. Much too much food but it was all worth it. To end the evening, I masked my Diabetes issue and indulged scoop of a balsamic lime ice cream from one of the many ice cream parlors close by.

Sep. 24. Sunday

Woke up to another picture-perfect day. Had a nice walk with Gabi and dog Emma. Emma is a nice dog but walking and having to pass cats and other dogs is quite stressful. I had my first 7000 steps for today already after the walk. Went on to the market in Lacona and on the way asked for the cost of a renting a scooter or car. Around 40€ for a scooter or a car for 70€ all day. Unfortunately, the booking has to be done one or two days ahead and for me that is not what I like doing. I prefer to be spontaneous. I kind of lean towards using my car. Having the bike stored in the back of the Van days before departure I’ll use my car to further explore the island. On I went to the local Sunday market and for another coffee with a prosciutto/Mozzarella sandwich with some rucola. Got also 300€ off the ATM machine and went back to the Camper. Took my medication, a beer and walked to Schieler’s for a chat.

Sep. 25. Monday

Today was boating time. Rüdi invited me for a boat ride on his rubber motorboat with his new 40 but in reality “60” HP engine. Quite a stormy boat ride as soon as we came around a corner. Waves were quite high. We made it a bit wet to Porto Azzurro. Had a drink and a toilet stop, before we visited our bay in front of our camping site. Gabi saw us and came out on her stand-up paddling device. Back at mooring position we went back in Rüdi’s car and got ready for the daily activities and later for dinner. I went on my own to Cavallino Rosso. A antipasti plate and a Pizza Prosciutto & quatro formaggio it was. It was quite windy tonight and the others had already moved inside therefore I did too.

Sep. 26. Tuesday

Had a good night’s rest and was again in a biking mood after my two cups of coffee. The goal was to visit the tongue on which the historic village of Capoliveri. Is located. Lots of Cross Country bikers that kind of looked semiprofessional in their suits and helmets crossed my path. The path I followed provided by Komoot was quite uneven and rough in various grades. I learned that here on this terrain BMX Championships are fought out Further out on the ridge I came by the Hotel Tenuta delle Ripalte www.tenutadelleripalte.it/en that also included a vineyard. I stopped and found the tasing room. https://shop.tenutadelleripalte.it/en Shopped a bit and selected the sweet Aleatico delle Ripalte and 2 bottles of prosecco. They all fit into my carrier case. From there it went downhill. Passed the mining museum and a food truck next to it. I had to stop. Not just about the food truck😂But I passed on the museum. It will be on the list for the next visit on Elba. The sandwich was good so the beer. Purchased a mineral as a souvenir in the museum shop and went on. For dinner we all went back to the dell Capitano Restaurant.

Sep. 27. Wednesday   

Two days ago I put my name on the list for a guided walk in the Lacona bay and Capo die Stelle area. We were a group of just shy of 40 German speaking people from 3 different camping sites. A Ranger, as it’s a National Park, was with us to explain the different plants and geological details from Elba. Mining https://fernwehmotive.de/en/elba-minen-capoliveri/ and such was going on for centuries but just about 20 years ago came to a halt. Once back at Lacona we went to Azienda Agricola Regali Rurali. www.regalirurali.it   A woman from Sicily did visit the island some 20 years ago, fell in love, stayed and did what she always wanted to do. Have a sheep farm and produce Bio Products for the local market. A local smaller wine producer was here too so we could try some wine and cheese at the same time. I purchased a small amount of cheese and had it vacuumed and will carry it in the Van fridge back to Germany. The wine from the island I don’t really like. It has a strong note of minerals in it, that I am not in favor of. Dinner was again at Cavallino Rosso. Seafood and Pasta with a glass or two of white wine (I take it from the photos I made after the fact, as I go into more details about my trip, 3 weeks after I arrived at home).

Sep. 28. Thursday

2 days before my departure. Time to do housekeeping and washing. Drying the cloths on a sunny day and in a warm air flow, within very short time. Emptied out the loading area of the van, made my bike ready, lifted and mounted it in position and also took care of all the other items I did not need in the coming 2 weeks on Sardinia but put all the item I needed in reach as the movement and opening of cabinets was not always possible due to the bike inside. Decision was taken, that this was the last time I would do it. Next time it will be on my bike carrier mounted on the trailer hitch. In between I had a small lunch and later an afternoon drink at the Beach Bar next door. For dinner for the 3rd and last time all were keen to eat the marvelous Steaks from Rüdi’s suite case gas grill. I think just fur this experience its worth to come back to Elba again. All the time we did not see many mosquitoes or wasps etc. But today I allowed one wasp to share my slice of meat. Later 2 neighbors joint in bringing a very good Grappa (Verdú Bevanda Spiritosa from Masari Wines www.masari.it with them. Even I liked it.

Sep. 29. Friday

So far, I had ridden my bike a few times, hiked or was driven with the girls to the Market in Portoferraio. After I had reorganized my Van, bike and all the rest I decided to take it and drive a bit around the island. This was my way of saving the €70+ for a rental car. I visited Rio Marino that I saw earlier, while with the bike at the time in Rio nell’Elba. It had some nice corners but was not really interesting. From the beach, the Italian mainland was in clear sight. By ferry like from Portoferraio just a 1h cruise. Outside of this small town I saw some closed mining site with all its structures. I was also lucky to see the ferry to Piombino and the island of Pianosa which leaves from here. But otherwise not much that would draw me back. On I went back up hill passing Rio nell’Elba (very happy that I went the wrong road the other day) and via very small and curvy roads back along the coast with nice views to Calvo. Just stopped briefly. It’s a bit upscale to the Lacona area. Hotels, Guesthouses etc. I felt it showed, as most of the Tourists were my age group or older. Not many kids around either. If, then being with their grandparents. From there, passing through or by Nisporto, Bagnaia, Magazzini, Schiopparello to Portaferaio where, at the outskirts in a hardware store, I found my “large” hammer, that (as of today 05.10.) I did not have to use at all. As in the coming days I would not stay longer than 3 nights at the same camp site. Not having to secure the awing etc. for bad weather. During the days I will be on sightseen tours. Off I went to Biodola where I did not find a spot to park the car. Decided then and it was confirmed on Sardinia that I need another type of vehicle than my bike when going camping next time. Parking is no issue with a small E-Scooter or such with a let’s say 100km driving distance. With the bike I still can exercise on nearby paths. (I changed my mind again, as I looked into the cost and weight, distance possible to travel etc… I will still take my bike with me but also rent a scooter in between. For 40 to 60€ a day, I can rent something several times and don’t have to look after it later). Finally, I reached Procchio where I had been with the bike a week earlier. Parking no issue. Finding a place at the beach for a coffee and a sweet neither. Back at the camp site it was chicken night. Ordered mine one for 6:30pm with some fried veggies. Both very nice to eat and tasty. I consumed it while being with Silvi and Rüdi. Had the rest of my red in a bag in a box. For the others it was a pizza night at Cavallino Rosso. They make good once. Thin crust and good ingredients. As the two returned we looked a bit into the Grappa’s that have been accumulating. Just took 2 nips and let it be.

Sep. 30. Saturday

Travel day. I first had my breakfast (2 cups of Cappuccino to go & one croissant) followed by the general morning routine. The back of the van was full of the stuff I brought with me including my bike and what I purchased to take home. More of that to come for sure when on Sardinia. After the Camper Van was all ready to go, I said goodbye to my friends and left towards Portoferraio. Parked the van in line for the ferry, locked it and went to purchase 3 postcards and also 3 stamps at the post office. The last time I saw them was, when I purchased a sandwich and a coffee for lunch on the ferry😂. (That’s what I thought. They were in a book and during the last day on Sardinia I dropped them off at the Post Office). On arrival in Piombino I set the navigation system back to avoid Motorways and followed a local road along the coast towards Livorno. Tall pine trees lined up along the road not far from the sand dunes and the sea. At one point I stopped to take some photos. The landscape was very Tuscany. Rolling hills sometimes topped by a castle like building, with Cypresses sprinkled on the slopes, …….. At one time I saw many huge advertisements next to the road and always the word “Bolgheri” At one time there was right turn for Bolgheri. I was too fast and saw it too late, therefore I had to turn around as I was interested to see what that was all about. Just after I turned off, I saw an historic Alfa Romeo Convertible next to the road, with people, cameras and more around it and of course young & beautiful women. Also, some young fellows dressed up in historic looking clothing. Thought about a wedding or photo shooting for some clothing line, but never really found out about it. Not much later I saw an old castle type building in front of me at the end of the road. Lots of “No Parking” signs and after not seeing police for 2 weeks suddenly a lot of them. Found an official parking spot, paid my dues and walked up to the village of Bolgheri  www.visittuscany.com/en/towns-and-villages/bolgheri Some call it also a hidden gem in the heart of the Etruscan Coast. It certainly had some history in it. But at some point, lost its virginity, certainly not its charm, and turned into a tourist attraction with all the shops, restaurants, cafes, Ice Cream Parlors to keep tourists flocking into it. I too purchased 2 souvenirs – for my sisters. The only other place I stopped on the way out was the church. It was a short drive to Livorno from here. Sometimes long lines of cars parked, squeezed towards the sea, off the road. I assume there were nice beaches worthwhile hiking downhill the steep slopes. Google Map brought me correct to the dock/ferry entry gate. It was still closed. Information barely available. 45 minutes later, I just followed others and succeeded by getting in after showing my reservation and ID. By now an initially indicated travel time of 1:30h became a 5h enjoyable trip. The wait before boarding the Grimaldi ferry www.grimaldi-lines.com/en to Sardinia was about 3:30h. There were a Café and Toilets dockside in a building. Both of what I needed. Later I did get a coffee and a small sandwich. First meal of the day. Once on board I dropped my luggage next to my Lounge Chair. Went to the reception and was put onto a waiting list for a cabin. I had preordered a dinner on board. Now I know I will not do it again. One has to be in front of the line to get fast service and that’s true if prepaid or not. Not big of a selection available either and the food just to serve the hungry. Not for the eye nor the taste buds. For a first-time cruiser on an overnight ferry, I had to ask far too many questions. Information was not provided sufficiently. As they most likely do it every day, for me it was the first time. This in addition to the Italian/English pronunciation, kind of had me lost often. I did get lucky with the cabin 1/2h after the ship left port. Picked up my luggage, went there, got ready and slept until 6am the following day.

Oct. 01. Sunday

The flag of Sardinia, which shows four Moors or Arabs (the flag is also called „Quattro Mori“ – four Moors), is a symbol of the completely autonomous time of the island with the four guidicati, who knew how to defend Sardinia and in which Sardinia was completely independent. Although the flag was definitely introduced later by the Aragonese (another occupying power)

The wake up through the loudspeaker system was much too early. But in the depth of the ship one does not know how far the boat is out on sea. I was up about 2h before being in the port of Olbia Found my car of course, but only with difficulties. Thought I had chosen the correct stairs but was proofed wrong. Once I had driven off the ferry, I followed my Google Map. It got me out of Olbia fine and towards my next site at the Centro Vacanze Isuledda https://www.isuledda.it . Again, I drove along as close as possible to the sea. Roads were small and huge busses were on its way as well. Saw fantastic granite stone formations formed by the erosion and had nice views into the Archipelago de la Maddalena www.voyagetips.com/en/la-maddalena and its various small islands. I liked what I saw. Sail- & Motorboats cruising the waters. Nice Cafés near the road once in a while, but I held steady until just 4km ahead of my campground. Its name: Café Del Sole https://www.facebook.com/agnese.serra.52 https://instagram.com/caffedelsolecannigione  . Along the Costa Smeralda I have to say there are nice places; harbors with its boats but as well nice food places. As I saw it, it just drew me in. And it was a good choice. Besides nice decoration and furniture the food items on the menu were all kind of light and healthy. Avoiding of course the sweet items that were available as well. My choice was a toast with scrambled eggs and avocado. 2 Capuchinos went with it. The wait line in front of the camp site reception was quite long and I only could check in as my private bathroom was not ready by then. In the meantime, I went back onto the road and left for the famous Bear Rock https://rocciadellorso.com  One of the impressive natural sights. Next was a stop at Porto Faro Beach www.sardegnaturismo.it/de/entdecken/porto-faro. The restaurant was already closed for the season and only the bar was open. A beer and some chips later I was on the road again. Drove towards Paulau, walked the center and choose Ristorante De Robertino  http://www.darobertinopalau.com for a late lunch. It was a good choice. Had some gratinated mussels and a nice Gilthead with a glass of wine. By the time I returned to the campsite I did get my key for the bathroom and set up camp at my site. I envisioned an ensuite private bathroom next to my camp site as the once I experianced in WA, but it just meant that it was a private bathroom within the main general sanitary building with a key to it. The way it all worked and as it was organized was new to me, Information again not where it should have been for one that does not know the place. At the end I had figured it all out, but it could have been a much less painful experience. If I would had been here during high season, I would have tried to get another site. I was right next to the restaurants, the Ice-Crem Parlor as well as the amphitheater set up and to the now closed activity center next to a kids playground. Whatever went on in the evening calmed down at around 10pm and it was no issue anymore after that. For dinner it was just some slices off my 2-week-old salami that was hardened a bit by now. No alcohol any more just water all evening sitting next to my camper. Here the issue with mosquitos was obvious. Before even the sun went down they were around. Long sleeves shirts and trousers with additional anti mosquito lotion helped.

My overall impression of the Sardinia I saw today was very positive. Nice hotels and touristic amenities available. Not too many tourists anymore, but as on Elba there was a strong Swiss presence. They came to the island with the kids that either had their autumn vacation or were still at kindergarten age. The Germans, all Senior Citizens were here of course too. By now I realized that I was driving along the Emerald Coast that Agah Kahn made once famous by developing it for the famous and the rich. Explained the nice experiance😁

The landscape was much different to Elba. Wider spaces, valleys and not just hills to climb. The eroded granite formation gave it a special touch.

Oct. 02. Monday

Today a hinterland tour. Followed a description that I read about in my Guidebook. First was Arzachena. https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/arzachena  I was lucky as I ran into the decoration of the stairs up to the Church St. Lucia https://arzachenaturismo.com/contenuti/479396/chiesa-scalinata-santa-lucia . I had read about it but did not remember that it was here. A nice coincident and quite different. On the way back to the car I also had a look at the small church Chiesa di San Pietro https://www.italia-italy.org/loc17963-chiese-arzachena/chiesa-san-pietro-arzachena The interesting part was a large sand drawn black and white picture at its floor just after entering it. It was Noon, but too early for me to have lunch. Looked at Goggle Map and found a restaurant at the Country Resort Aldiola https://www.aldiolacountry.com that was open and mainly serving their residents and strangers like me that found them one or the other way. Being a Monday, many restaurants were closed, and I was happy to have found one that was open. It was off the main road, but into the direction I wanted to go anyway. While entering the terrace, I and I don’t know why, started when entering the terrace to use my little French I speak. Having started that way instead of Spanish or my rudimentary Italian, she got me a French menu. Too embarrassing for me to correct the situation and was actually not sure of what I would get for lunch. I was lucky with my choice. 1. The kitchen provided good food. 2. Had some wonderful and enjoyable Pasta up front followed a steak. Had 2 glasses of a good local red with it. Looked at my book and its next recommendation. Wanted to visit an assembly of old olive trees called Olivastri Millenari https://olivastrimillenariluras.it/#foto. It was not far from my location but no through road at my side of the Lake de Liscia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Liscia to reach it. Had to go back and around the south side which took me about 30 minutes. A coffee at the entrance to the site of the old olive trees was 2€ the entrance to the site was 3€. The assembly consisted of 3 olive trees. It started with the oldest being approx. 4.500 years old and still of good structure and the other 2 were around 1.500 and 500 years old. Thought about visiting the next recommended city which was Tempio Pausania https://strictlysardinia.com/tempio-pausania-sardinia-guide . As described in the book nothing that special. Had a historic center but nothing out for the extraordinary. Just to check it off the list. By chance I found a wine shop and purchased 2 better, meaning pricier ones, in the hope more € = better wine. The once I had looked at on the internet were not on their shelfs. It will show if I was lucky to pick the once, I did pick. For the first time on Sardinia, I saw a sign that indicated that roads are plowed if snowing and that snow chains have to used, at that time. The roads where all day very curvy and avoiding hills was not an option. When I was driving at the posted speed limits, I was just about overrun by even the smallest cars. Hope I don’t get a ticket sent to Germany for driving too slowly😂. All in all, a nice day. I liked the lunch place and the lake. Again, strange granite formation all over.

Oct. 03. Tuesday

At 10am I was at the ticket office for the ferry to Isola La Maddalena https://www.voyagetips.com/en/la-maddalena/. A queue on one counter ticked me off. Also, the ferry left at 10:10 and 10 people were in front of me. The other counter from a smaller provider showed a 10:50 departure. This left me time for a coffee and time to take a few photos. I was after all on a vacation😁I did not much prepare for the ferry ride as everybody stated just go get your ticket and wait for the ferry. What I was unaware off was, that I belief it was Delcomar that had a 30 minute schedule while the one I choose La Maddalena Lines, just several times a day especially outside the high season. No problem for me. I was on vacation👍Maddalena is the largest of about 60 islands with a total inhabitance of approx. 12.000. After arrival I drove North. Missed a turn and ended up in a lovely beach area. No official parking and everybody just squeezed their cars against the slope, off the road as much as they could. Found a beach bar to stop for a drink and some chips. It was meant to be an aperitive. 1h or so later, I drove on as I had a particular restaurant for a small lunch in mind. Per Goggle Map it was open but in reality, it was not. And not for a while, meaning closed for the off-season. As I stopped to figure out my next move, I was approached by a security fellow that reminded me, that I could not stay here as it was private property. I did not start a conversation and went on just to come by another large private property with camera-controlled access. Later I saw the buildings from the road. Nested / squeezed in a bay wall to wall. Looked like it was built for the once with some money but not enough to have their own or free-standing house on a property along the Emerald Coast. On I went and crossed a small bay on a dam to the island of Caprera https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/caprera , of which most or all is a national park. There are 2 small museums. One dedicated to Garibaldi https://www.garibaldicaprera.beniculturali.it/garibaldi_l_eroe . A historic Italian freedom fighter. The other one for the Caprera Geo- Minerological https://www.sardegnacultura.it/en/articles/la-maddalena-caprera-museo-geo-mineralogico-naturalistico situation. I passed other opportunities and opted for lunch at the I Mille Bar Paninoteca https://www.facebook.com/pages/Paninoteca-i-Mille/663541857027649/ . It’s a wooden rustic shack with terrasse and a quite nice selection of different food items. I choose a salad which was the best one, while on Elba or Sardinia so far. The decision was early on challenged by the looks of the Burgers I saw. Most of the visitors were going for the burgers. By now I decided that nothing special to visit was left, beside the impressive views of the coastline etc. Therefore, I opted to return to the town of La Maddalena and the embarkation point. By now at around 2:15 pm all shops were closed, restaurants were full, and I had to look hard to find just a Café with a place to sit down and just have a coffee. Found it at Bar Pasticceria La Bomboniera. A Cappuccino and a nice sweet little something it was. As I sat there, I remembered that I wanted to try a SEADA https://wineandtravelitaly.com/food/seada which unfortunately they did not serve. I know now, that it consists of 2 thin layers of I guess puff paste and its filled with a thin layer of cheese. After it is deep fried all will be simmered in honey. Very sweet. I ran in to it on the way back to the ferry. Just 20 minutes left before the boarding started, but I wanted to try this Sardinian specialty here and now. I made it to the ferry and was back at the camp site at 4:15pm. Dinner followed. A smoked Salmon Trout from the German Pre-Alps that I purchased on the way to Elba. Still good and tasty. Once in the Van I watched two 1:30h long comedy episodes, streamed from the ARD Mediathek via the WIFI network on the camping site.

Oct. 04. Wednesday

Tomorrow is a transfer day. Not knowing the situation on the next campground, I opted to wash all used items and get ready for the second last relocation on the island during this trip. Washing went OK and the warm breeze dried all items in no time. Had also a nap in the afternoon and otherwise strolled around the neighborhood and wrote further on my notes. Lunch and dinner were small and still based on the items I carried with me. The choice of activity once the sun was down, was again, watching a streamed movie in the Camper.

Oct. 05. Thursday – Transfer Day

Before I started, I made myself some eggs and in no time, I had wasps again as visitors. Ended up eating it inside the Van. I checked-out at around 10am and went first to the Café di Sole again, which provided a superior Cappuccino. I drove on a slow pace on small roads going north and northwest towards my next Camp site at Pineta di Vignola Mare. First SP13 to Arzachena, SP115 to Bassacutena,

Passed bevor I reached Campovaglio on the SP70, a street display of paintings on bark and also some simple ceramic items caught my interest. Did not stop. But had to do that anyway, to get a picture of a discontinued query 200m later. A pool of rainwater had accumulated in front of the work zone and formed quite a large pond. Had no other opportunity for a close up shot of such a Quarrie. At the same time my interest in the exhibited artistic items close to the street drew me back. A barking dog was the receptionist and the artists best friend. Pietro the artist, was quite a personality. Had a car but had as I believe and not only by the look of his facial hairs, not been domesticated by a female. His cloths seemed to need some washing after some weeks of wearing them. He let me into the low built building with a little exhibition area. At the end I decided to get a bark with a simple coastal scene painted on it and not a ceramic item. Had found my souvenir from this trip. By entering these GPS coordinates 41.136801, 9.248102 into Google or Bing Map etc., you will see a street view photo and how the building looked like some time earlier. Not much changed besides windows and doors were fixed. Further on SP70 to Porto Pozzo which was not worth a stop. From there on SS133bis to Santa Teresa Gallura. A nice place with sufficient parking places in the midst of the town. Nice view from there along the coast and the nearby bay. I decided to have lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria il Grottino, Via del Mare, 14, 07028 Santa Teresa di Gallura +39 0789 754232. Quite expensive €40,50 for what it was, but also again very good pasta. Had Tortellini filled with cheese 😋 a small mixed salade, a beer and water with it. Not to forget the Crema Catalan, which even not on the menu its always available. Catalans were one of the many nations that occupied or tried to occupy Sardinia. The Catalan language is still around as well as parts of the recipes. The location was off the main drag, which was full of tourists that I tried to avoid. On I went via SP 90 using this narrow and windy road that also provided nice country views, but also saw the scars created in the landscape by the many Granite Quarries. Large trucks came towards me once in a while, with just one big block of granite on their trailer. I judged it to be square by 2 or 3m each side. That would give it a weight between 24 tons respectively 81 tons (3m x 3m x 3m x 3.000kgm3). I guess it’s rather 2m or 2,5 than 3m. Next stop was the Camping Village Baia blu La Tortuga in Vignola Mare http://www.campinglatortuga.com Lots of high pine trees that provided good shade and only 20 or 30% occupancy made it a nice stay but no contact besides a hello to fellow campers. The restaurant on site had the charm of a cafeteria. I decided to have my own dinner after a walk and a drink at a bar on the beach outside the campground. Allowed me to further reduce my accumulated food items from Elba and the once brought with me from Germany still in the cooler, still all good.

Today it was a real pleasure for me to see all these landscapes, beaches and villages. Again, the granite formations were great as well. Often the access was limited to a certain max. car size and weight. At the same time, I saw Offroad Campers that drove along the coast/beach, and I wondered if they would stay at a camp site or overnight or at the beaches. Normally that’s not allowed in Italy. However, I had spoken with an older German bloke at the ferry to Sardinia, that stated, that he came to Sardinia for 35 years and never stayed at a camp site🤷‍♀️

Oc. 06.10. Friday – Tour Day

Had my coffee and a croissant at the bar on site. Both were surprisingly good. Started driving at around 10:30. Drove south along SP90 again, the closest road to the sea. Turned right towards Costa Paradiso https://strictlysardinia.com/costa-paradiso-sardinia-guide . It’s kind of an enclave, designed and planned and built when sold. Most likely less costly as the Emerald Coast on the other side of the island. Its houses in certain areas looking more like a US designed suburb. Other individual once, more hidden and ducked away, also in kind of camouflage colors similar to the rocks surrounding them. None of any, more than 2 stories high. Very nice to look at but where there were too many, it was kind of upsetting. The coast was very rocky with some pools and wooden platforms to rest. Dogs were allowed here too. After a brief stop, I drove uphill again just to stop briefly at the Jolly Disco Bar to get another cup of coffee. Back at the main road I turned off the next exit and stopped to have a look at the Elephant Rock https://sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/elephants-rock  Next to it, an older person sold small items out off his car’s trunk. He was a good salesperson. He sold me another little souvenir😂. A mere 2km later, before reaching the historic center. It gave me a nice view onto Castelsardo https://strictlysardinia.com/castelsardo-sardinia-guide with its Doria Castle sitting on top of it all. https://www.wonderfulsardinia.com/destinations/golfo-asinara/castelsardo I walked the small town, visited the Castello and the church and found a nice little restaurant at the end of lunch time La Schizzula di Satta Ignazio https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100041728635116 Had a good plate of pasta and a drink. No crema Catalan today. On my way home I turned left at the exit to Isola Rossa https://strictlysardinia.com/costa-paradiso-sardinia-guide/ . Had time and wanted to know what it would look like. A nice little port village. I was definitely late in the season. Most parking spaces and apartments were empty. I am sure next August or July it will look much different. The port took its name from a larger island/rock arrangement a short distance off the beach. Once back home no dinner after that late lunch but a stroll along the seafront where I also had a chance to see the sun go down as well as having a beer.

Oct. 07. Saturday – Transfer Day

Took it slowly. Had my breakfast again at site. Van was packed fast and easy. Had only the 2 chairs and the table out of the trunk. Departure after my morning routine including shower was at around 10am. Again, the goal was to take small roads and if possible, the once that I had not used before. That meant going south further inland. Off my campground and onto SP5. As I drove along for a while I, just for a split-second, saw kind of a granite structure off the main road. Turned right at the next possibility and bumped into a what I belief given up quarry. No name or additional information found this site either. Shortly after I left again. I entered the SS133. In Tempio Pausania I changed onto SS127 and stayed later on SS672 as the road split. I saw an eagle’s nest again but at the same time one of the many historic towers. Nuraghe Ruju https://www.donnanuragica.com/siti-archeologici-sardi/nuraghi/tzaramonte-chiaramonti-nuraghe-ruju right next to the street. I stopped illegally next to it on the street and took as quick as I could, my photos and moved on to the little village of Chiaramonti https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/chiaramonti The hill on which the little town was arranged was crowned by a castle ruin. Some oversized wall paintings were interesting. I took the information off a flyer posted several times on lamp posts, that there was also a fest going on later in the afternoon. Unfortunately, I was not prepared to wait it out. Not much to see otherwise as also the church was closed. After having had a look at the castle ruins and its views from up there, I wandered some of the narrow streets left the town and was back at SS672 in no time. It did not take long before I saw one and later another church. It was Santissima Trinità di Saccargia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_Saccargia built in the byzantine style. Some other camper tourists were there. Also having lunch at Ristorante Saccargia https://www.ristorantesaccargia.com/ close to it. Had a nice and interesting looking Caprese Salad followed by a Seada. Next was the church. A small entrance fee was required. Impressive how well-kept this this old structure looked. Survived several hundred years. Many modern once have to be demolished after 30 or 40 years. Further on I drove and only stopped at the ticket counter of the Santuario pre-nuragico Monte d’Accoddi. An historic archaeological site https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_d%27Accoddi . It took me 15 minutes to figure out that Google had its location wrongly north of the Via Sassari and not south of it. I took the time to complain at Goggle. Was surprised, that they acted that quick as of now October 29th, they had the issue corrected. I drove on, passing Sassari & Porto Torres saving it for possibly next year. Walked the little Port di Stintino which, in the past, was also involved in tuna fishing https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/places/north-west/stintino Without much delay I went back to the car and drove towards my accommodation for the next 3 nights, Alghero and the Alghero Resort Country Hotel http://www.algheroresort.it . It was outside the city. Had dinner there at 8pm. It was a fixed menu. Not too many guests and as we were all reasonable Seniors, no one seemed to bother and eat what was presented. The pasta, was so far on Sardinia, just perfect, every time. The Calamari ok. Went to bed without munch delay.

08.10. Sunday – Alghero & Surrounding

Slept like a baby and was down for breakfast at around 9am. The owner sitting behind the receptionist desk. We talked a bit in English. She asked about dinner last night. I mentioned the perfect pasta. Apparently, a women cooked, and she was fishing, if I liked it or not. Of what little I know of Italy, I wondered why she was not sure that a lady cook would do a perfect job🤷‍♀️ Had in mind to drive along the coast today and see as much as possible of the sites I had marked on my tour book. First I went to Argentiere https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argentiera   http://turismosassari.it/en/explore/sassari-without-barriers/item/517-the-argentiera-an-unusual-sassari-to-discover-through-mines-and-sea.html It’s an abandoned mining town. Its location was at the end of the main road. Around the center one sees some efforts of rebuilding certain industrial buildings. An industrial hall was changed into a Theater / Stage type site and looked quite nice. Outside the center, on the slopes of the hills, there are inhabited individual houses that at one time must have housed miners. No grass, just dust, soil and rocks. Tourists flocked in, to the beaches and the center. It was Sunday and over time towards lunch people visited the place and the beach over the hill. The Fast Caffè, Bar/Restaurant, was open and active. Kind of tailored rustic towards the HD biker community. Had a small lunch and a drink and left. Same road (SP18) back towards Alghero but turned right on SP69 and again at SP55bis. It got me to the Grotto Neptuno area and lucky me, I also found the one and only parking spot left – of course it was illegal parking🤷‍♀️. Had to walk 500m or so, to just find out that the next group would only start walking in 1:30h. That was a too long wait time for me. Went back to the car and found a beach bar at the Tramariglio Beach https://www.archimete.it/category/attivita/turismo-cultura/ . Had a beer and a sandwich and drove on back to Alghero to walk the historic downtown area. It’s a nice place. Had to have for its tourists of course a Ferris wheel. Which town these days doesn’t have one? Strolled through the port too. Talked to one of the men standing in front of their tourist boats and was told tomorrow at 13:30 they would have a tour to the Grotto Neptuno. The streets in the historic area were small but still a good number of shops. Some with better-quality clothing lines displayed in the windows. Some of the shops were closed possibly it being a Sunday today. I returned to the Hotel for dinner. Again, pasta and as a second, this time meat. Again, the pasta was better than the meat. Booked a massage for 9am the next day.

09.10. Monday – Alghero

Had a swollen right leg since a while and as my day today was not so full of any specific activity, I treated myself to a massage. A good portion of the time was allotted to a kind of lymphatic massage of my right leg. At 13:30 I was at the port, but a busload of people were lining up. I passed on that opportunity and was told that tomorrow at 10:15 would be another opportunity. I walked the city, had a Caprese for lunch and purchased some crackers for my good friend James. He seems to have some kind of addiction😉for these crackers. At the same time, I bought some Prosecco and 2 bottles of wine. Went back to the Hotel, organized my luggage, purchases and worked on my notes. For dinner it was Pasta and this time fish.

10.10. Tuesday – Grotto Neptuno, Olbia, Ferry to Genua

At the port on time just to figure out, at the time of boarding, that I could not purchase a ticket at the boat but had to run over to a building at the promenade to get one. 10 Minutes I had for that exercise. I was fast and on the boat in time. It took them about 45 minutes to reach the Grotto Neptuno area. Another boat in front of us dropped or picked up passengers so we did a little tour along the impressive and steep cliff. At one point there was even quite a large opening up in the middle of a rock formation, that one could see through. After 10 minutes or so we approached the Grotto and got off. We all had to pay 13€ entrance fee (same add. price as if walking down some 650 or so steps with a guide) just to then kind of in a goose march enter the cave and follow each other for 30 minutes. It was a great experience – just too many people. We were back at the Port at 12:45. We were lucky. A school of dolphins showed up briefly on the way back. Got into my Van and leaving the port immediately. Heading for Olbia. One last time crossing the island. It was again worth it. Low frequency of cars or trucks and nice views. My MOBBY ferry left at 21:30 and it should take 11h to reach Genua. Food items were terrible. Next time I’ll bring something with me on board. A sandwich is better than this food. I had booked a cabin. By 10:30 I was sleeping. There are also ferries leaving for Barcelona from Porto Torres and Genua as well as Corsica from the small Port of Santa Teresa Gallura – at least during the high season. From Cagliari I belief the only ferry destination of interest, when thinking about getting onto the Italian mainland, is Naples. I dream of a trip to take the ferry from there to Malta the next time I am on Sardinia.

11.10. Wednesday – Genua to Stuttgart

We arrived 1:15h late at the Port. It seemed as if we had to wait some time to get the Pilot on board. I did get a cup of coffee after all on bord. Better here than to wait another 2h or so for one at a rest stop. Had to buy 2 times additional Data for my phone on Sardinia due to high usage of Google Map and video streaming. Now I used my downloaded maps to navigate through Genua onto the Autostrada and towards Milano and Chiasso while my phone was on Flight Mode. I had made up my mind as I was driving, to use the San Bernardino route, rather than the St, Gotthard tunnel. While approaching the steeper parts towards the tunnel I saw at the right hand a publicity “Swiss Salmon” https://swisslachs.ch/en/ . Had to turn off at the Lostallo exit to visit this place. Was told there that they farm Salmon in the Swiss Alps now since 2015. Purchased some items, that had to go, with a discount, also as Souvenirs for family and friends. My items tasted well when eaten at home. Had not have any feedback otherwise. Only had one more stop at the “Heidiland” from Marchè. I love their food. The way they present it as well as the quality. Drove down the Rhine Valley and along the Lake of Constance on the Swiss side and turned North outside Winterthur to reach the Swiss/German Boarder at Thayngen and consequently the A81 Autobahn that got me into Stuttgart. Dropped off the Salmon at my Family. Also at Willy’s, where I had a small dinner as Markus’s birthday celebration was going on. Was home at around 7pm

4 interesting weeks on Elba and Sardinia ended. Learned a lot of new tings and collected tons of new unforgettable impressions, for my brain to sort and file now. To help it, above my not so perfect notes and some of the photos I took. When I write my notes, I hate the process. But later, as it has proven many times, it’s a good resource to refresh my memory and relive certain moments again.

Bali – Phuket – Muscat – Frankfurt – Stuttgart

2023.02.02 – 2023.02.14

02.02. Thursday

Prep- and Travel Day. Started already yesterday evening and completed it today. Resent the returned Christmas parcel including 2 books that were too heavy and size wise an issue in my backpack. Got some tart shells and Hot Cross Buns again just for breakfast on the way back. As I further packed, I realized that weight was still an issue and therefore I decided to take a larger amount of winter items as well as some camping gear out of my backpack and suitcase as otherwise I could have an issue with Virgin Australia. Luise will have to send another package😏🤷‍♂️ We had a joint lunch snack and left at 1:45 for the airport. Separating after 8 weeks was painful. Going through Immigration and security was easy. 2 beer and some Chinese noodles helped me to kill time waiting for my flight. Which itself was uneventful. A 6:30h long flight on a 737-8. Saw a lot of nothing and when I would have liked to see more details, clouds blocked my sight. We landed at 23:11 a bit early. Still in Australia I had realized that one form was missing and just before boarding I did get the confirmation. The custom form I thought I had filled out but forgot to print it or file it on my phone. After I passed the passport control, I used one of the PC systems there and did the online form and as I got the printer QR code I realized I had it with me. Well, that’s life. I also purchased a new SIM card. 14 GB for little money. Just Data to use WhatsApp and Skype. No need for phone calls. The driver of the preordered Taxi was waiting for me just outside the arrival hall, with about 200 other colleagues. But I found him and 25 minutes later we arrived at the Bali Niksoma Boutique Beach Resort http://baliniksoma.com . Just the small local road between it and the beach. It was traditionally built with lots of open areas and a nice air stream. Humidity was high and as I entered my room not much later, I got a temperature shock. It was adjusted to 21C, and the AC must have been running for ever. I turned it up and down a few times and settled at 25C for the night. By 1:30 I had come down to the point that I was tired enough to fall asleep.

02.03. Friday

By 07:30 I was up again. The firs view out of the balcony window was humbling. Clouds and raindrops. Had a cup of Nestle Instant Coffee😏 Can’t adjust my taste for it. It took quite a while until I had myself and my clothing organized. The room was spacious enough not to feel constrained. The bath had just a tub with a shower head. While the room itself was in good order and nothing to complain about, here I saw the only wear and tear on the bathroom doors and walls, and I assume it has to do with a waterline that was repaired respectively the humidity. Had requested to book me that hotel without breakfast. At around 10am I left in search for a coffee shop and something light to eat and choose the Coffeeterie Legian https://www.tripadvisor.de/Restaurant_Review-g608487-d12433357-Reviews-Coffeeterie-Legian_Kuta_District_Bali.html  . Legian referring to the beach section we were on https://www.beach-inspector.com/de/b/legian-beach . It had a 4,3 rating and was just 200m behind my Hotel. The coffee was good so were the 2 egg Benedict on Ham and an English muffin. It was only 140.000 Rupiah (IDR) or about €8,50. On I went to discover the surrounding areas of my hotel mainly in search for some restaurants for a late afternoon / early dinner. Walking alone on the beach it was absolutely empty. Only some surfers were in the water ignoring the red flag. Traveling in the rainy Season meant that clouds covered the sky. Once in a while it was also raining but mostly in the night. However the humidity was high. An umbrella and a rain jacket was permanently in my small backpack – just in case😊 The sand on the beach was dark. The strong waves swept seaweed and such onto the beach overnight. Later in the day the empty lounge chairs and such filled up somewhat but still around my hotel not more than 10%. Further North where the younger crowd was at the Courtyard and the Indigo Hotels were starting their parties in the afternoon. I judged it to be filled by about a rate of 30%. Having so few tourists the vendor asked me about every 5m if I needed a drink or a seat, Taxi, moto scooter, toys for the kids and so on. But in a nice way not pressing and giving up approaching me once I denied. I relaxed for an hour in my room and after another 1h walk I fell into the “The Coffee Club” an Australian coffee chain for a cappuccino. Not much later I entered the hotel restaurant for a very early dinner at 16:30. Had an Indonesian Curry (don’t ask me what the difference to a Thai Curry is). It was good so was the dessert (fried Banana with an Ice crem on it) Have to say I was toooo hungry to remember to take photos of the full plates 😂 I also set up a day tour to Ubud with Wayan the Taxi driver from yesterday. The offered tours on the internet always required 2 people and I did not like all the included stops and shows etc…… Just shy of 11pm I turned the lights off after having taken a 3mg Melatonin Tablet again.

02.04. Saturday

8h later I woke up after a good night’s sleep. Thought about an activity for today and found the Pura Tanah Lot Temple and organized a Taxi pick up for 10:30. Wayan was unavailable, so he organized that his colleague Ketut picked me up. It was only 19km from the Hotel but it took us more than 1h before we stopped at Sari Amerta Luwak Coffee https://www.facebook.com/people/Sari-Amerta-Luwak-Coffee/100064847104672/  . Ketut had spoken with me about it, and I accepted the stop and was prepared. First, I tried 14 different tea and coffee arrangements. Just a sip, like with wine, each time. I liked the Lemongrass and the Turmeric Instant Tea and purchased at the end 2 bags of instant sugar free tea. The Ginger one was extreme spicy. As much as I like it as spice in food, for tea it’s not my taste. Next stop was the parking in front of the Temple but only after we had paid the entry fee. Ketut stayed with the car. I assume he has seen the temple numerous times. Of course, the shops had to be there. Must have been in the hundreds. Seeing the items several times again and again as I strolled down towards the beach and temple. Now with only limited numbers of visitors due to the season they fought for my attention. The temple itself was not accessible as we had high tide. I also was not sure what I would have done if it was low tide. In the caves created by the waves it’s been said that sea snakes occupy them (not sure if it’s a myth or not). In any case it was a nice view. By further walking the premises, I also saw the Batu Bolong Temple https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanah_Lot that sat on the other side of a natural bridge also close to the sea. After my little walk I had a bite to eat (beef & rice) and a Bintang beer before returning to the car to drive back. About 2km ahead of the hotel, at the main road, I asked Ketut to stop. I paid and got out of the car. Checking the shops as I walked towards the beach, revisited The Coffee Club for a Cappuccino and a Blueberry Cheesecake before heading to the hotel. No more food after this but a beer and some water before I went to bed. After all we were lucky. Barely any rain all day until we were at least I was back at the hotel. By then all valves were opened and I was lucky to watch it from the inside of my room.

02.05. Sunday

A quiet day. Had a massage at 9am which was good. Booked another one for Tuesday morning same time. Had a go at the breakfast buffet in the hotel. Waited until the rain was gone and walked for some 5 km along the beach and inward toward the Raya Legian Rd. where most shops were. Bali is part of Indonesia which itself is the largest Democratic Presidential Islamic Republic with a population of 274 Million. It is the 4th most populous country. Bali’s religion contrary to the rest of Indonesia is Hinduisms. What is custom to them is putting offerings in front of ther homes or alleys etc. Often pigeons or other birds take advantage of it. What was obvious was, that a lot of work and mainly improvements but also new buildings (restrooms) was done along the beach. Walkways along the beach were improved or prolongated. New palm trees planted etc…. As it was raining on and off this morning the next door hotel had their lounge chairs next to the pool prepared and dried off several times. Purchased a local made white cotton shirt with some black palms printed on it. It’s made out a very light cotton. Hope it stays with me in good condition for a while. I like it. Relaxed at the room and went out for another walk along the beach and some busy neighborhood streets. At 5pm it was dinner time. 9 small sate skewers with a fried banana, vanilla ice cream and some whipped cream I ordered extra.

02.06. Monday

Today it should have been a tour day. But instead, it rained hard and the wind pushed hard. The rain came in from the West and hit my balcony and sliding doors hard. It was to the point that I was preparing that the glass doors might shatter. Wayan and I communicated hard and at the end we agreed to cancel the tour today and do it tomorrow. Ubud is at higher altitudes and a bit cooler. Therefore, it could still rain there even it stopped here. We will see. First comes my next massage tomorrow then the tour. Breakfast was again the corner café behind the hotel from there I searched for a Sarong. Found it. As I did not want to have flowers or just colored repeating designs, I purchased one form IDR 50.00 (€3) with a Bob Marley image and colors . Returned over the beach and before reaching the hotel I saw a vendor that had an Umbrella and chairs set up. Good enough for me today to sit down and have a beer while watching the ocean. Umbrella would also keep me dry if the rain would not hit us horizontally. Stayed most of the afternoon at the hotel and again worked on the photos. This time from Sydney. Had dinner at a Restaurant in the neighborhood of the hotel. I consumed 2 beers while reading on my book. Later I had a mixed Indonesian meat plate and one prawn on it with some rice. The spices were separate, and I could mix it in to my liking. From there to the hotel for a dessert. Again, deep fried Banana with the additional ice cream and the whipped cream I did order again too.

02.07. Tuesday                                                                                                                                                

t 9am I was at the reception of the SPA at the Bandha Hotels (sister Hotel of my Niksoma Hotel) Again a good massage. At 10:45 I was sitting with Wayan in his car and driving towards Ubud. A stop and go process. For 30km around 1,5h. First stop was at the Pura Puseh Desa Batuan Temple https://bali.com/de/places/pura-puseh-batuan-temple/ . Impressive. To get in a Sarong was provided as part of the entry fee. At the time of my visit the 2 Koi fish pools were being emptied to be cleaned. Did not want to stop at the Monkey forest but went straight on to the Tegenungan Waterfall https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tegenungan_Waterfall which was a nice experience. Losts of steps to go down and up. Before we hit Ubud he stopped for lunch (for me) at the Bebek Joni www.bebekjonirestaurant.com just short of Ubud. The rice fields were right behind it. Touristy but I think it was mainly for the availability for Ketut park his car. On we went and out of the car I got as soon as we were at the Ubud center close to the royal palace. I gave myself only 1,5h to see the Ubud center. Purchased a green shirt from “BALI” Made in Bali. Saw Temple and for the public available areas, had a coffee and a sweet “Pavlova” A thin meringue casing filled with a whipped cream also including meringue pieces – giving it a nice crunch when eating. Decorated on top with Strawberries. The drive back was worse than coming to Ubud. Nearly 2h required. Had a G&T and a beer together with a mixed Sate before hitting my room and working on my notes.

 02.08. Wednesday

A sunny day for a change. But it was a travel day again. The flight left at 14:50. I was at the airport at 11:30. Sat at the food section in front of the gate entrance. Ordered. Was unable to get Scoot’s App to work. But when I checked in all was in the green and the further processes went easy and fast. Had at the end a 1:30h wait before boarding the Scoot A320NEO. Had a stop in Singapore and a plane change. It was a 787-8 that got us to Phuket. Landed at 19:20 in Phuket and met my driver about 1h later. Arrived at the Dewa Phuket Resort & Villas https://www.dewaphuketresort.com 5 minutes later. Even as the Airport was so close I did not hear a thing in my room.

02.09. Thursday

From here on all my notes are out of memory. Did loose my notes while cutting, pasting, inserting and saving or moving it from one file to another.

As I mentioned earlier I choose Phuket because I could leave direct towards the West without having to go to let’s say Bangkok or again Singapore. It’s a whole Island and had chosen a more quiet location just south of the airport at the Naiyang Beach. Close to the Sirinat National Park. It’s not as hectic as for example the Patong area further south. Again, like in Bali, the hotel was separated by a local street from a park with old pine trees and the beach. Breakfast was a must when making the reservation. I changed my eating schedule for a late breakfast between 09:3 and 10:00. As I usually do I walked the neighborhood quite intensive to see what’s to eat and drink and what’s the beach like. Here much more tourism but also the weather was better. Less clouds and humidity and the beach sun beds and chairs filled up with lots of tourists. Stopped at the Sea Calm Café for a coffee. It was part of the Perennial Resort www.perennialresortphuket.com . Turned right as I reached Rt4031 and saw to my surprise a “Weed” shop “Grow High Phuket Weed Store”. When I was last in Thailand that was not allowed and there are still certain restriction where one can smoke it. Came by a local market that was open also at night. Will come back some other time. Also passed a Temple and short time later back at the hotel. All chairs around the pool were occupied and no place to sit otherwise especially in the shade. By now the sun was burning hard. Did rest a bit and went back to the beach and walked south where many small restaurants were located offering their food items or drinks. Went as far as to the Marriott and went back to the Sea Almond Chilled Restaurant & Café  https://m.facebook.com/Seaalmond.phuket to have a small bite and a drink. Found later a place to sit closer to the hotel at the beach where I watched the planes take off from the nearby airport. Had a G&T and as it was getting dark, I retrieved to my room.

02.10 Friday

Friday First thing this morning was to organize a massage and a cooking class. The walk ways outside the room blocks were green and nicely groomed. Wanted to get introduced into the making of chicken Saté and some red chicken Curry. Breakfast followed. Same food items again. Selection so late was not great any ore. The massage was not so special but the cooking class I liked. For an afternoon drink I went back to the beach area. As I saw others walking to the beach restaurants and di the same. Choose the Sea Almond Chilled Restaurant & Café https://m.facebook.com/Seaalmond.phuket Choose standard sea food items that were well cooked. Had a sundowner also and went back to the hotel. Passed a local Family Mart. The Weed shop was right next to it. Just before I stepped into the hotel, I stopped at a Taxi stand to see how much the local fares were. Tomorrow, I want to go to Phuket Old Town and Patong.

02.11. Saturday

After Breakfast I went back to the Taxi stand. For 70€ I had a car for 8h and with a driver. The first goal was Ubud and then I though Patong too just to get a taste of what it would be like. The first stop was at the Central Phuket Mall http://centralphuket.com . I had over the internet located a shop that sold Crocks flip flops. Did not want to risk getting a copy of them at the beach shops. The Mall as such was very different. No Walls and all the different shops had no physical limitation, but one could wander from one to the other easily. On we went to Phuket Old Town. Got out of the car at Dibuk Rd. &  Soi Rommani. Soi Rommani looked much better than what one sees at Google Street Map. Nice shops and clean road. Parked scooters and cars yes but barely any traffic. This one and the Thalang Rd. were without any power or phone lines and the facades nicely painted and all it seamed be kept in good condition. My highlight here was a food item again. Hongkong Style Mango filled Pancakes  at Eleven Two & Co http://www.facebook.com/eleventwoandco/ It was a new item but to die for. Apparently often served in Chinese restaurants. That might be the reason not knowing such a delightful desert, as I don’t eat often there. I zigzagged through the center, called my cab driver, met him and on we drove towards Patong. It appeared to be as I expected. Lots of action, tourists, bars and clubs etc.… Once at the beach and having found a parking spot I started walking not having a plan in mind. Just drifted with the crowed. Lots of action at the beach. Contrary to my hotel location barely any free beach chair free. Also, the 4000-passenger carrying Spectrum of the Sea https://www.royalcaribbean.com/deu/de/cruise-ships/spectrum-of-the-seas anchored in the bay. I heard lots of languages also Russian. All in all, a place I don’t have to return to. We drove back north towards the airport via the local roads along the coast. There were also sufficient little towns where one could stay and avoid Patong, but still, withing 10 or 20 minutes, be in the midst of it and its action if required. Late afternoon I visited the Nai Yang Fresh Market. Did notsee food items for my taste butts and no seating options either. Found a sea side beach restaurant. Nice food and could watch a sunset with one or two sun downers 😉Could not resist a chocolate pancake on the way back.

02.12. Sunday

I took it easy again today. Stayed on the beach in the shade. Walked along the beach close to the airport runway. Took photos and videos. In the morning they started to the east and in the afternoon to the west. Every day so far. Saw and checked the online arrival information. There were daily 8 Boing 777, 787 and 767, landing from Russia alone. No German flights though. Tomorrow my flight leaves late at 20:30 to Muscat. I have to plan how to spend my time tomorrow and still have a shower before going to the airport. I could not have a late check-out, as the hotel is fully booked tomorrow night. Once back I had an early G&T at a drink location. My stomach started to call and I asked if they could get me a Saté from a nearby food stand. No problem. It was also a good one. In the past days I had seen along the street parallel to the beach, 20 or 30 massage salons where the women wanted to pull me in for a massage. I refused it. But today, after a G&T and 8 Chicken Satés at the beach next to my hotel, I walked in a side street and don’t know why, but approached a saloon where the women did not even look at me when approaching. Had a wonderful foot and leg massage. I had some pain in my right foot since a day or so and hoped for some relief. It felt better but wasn’t gone. Passed a pancake stand. Smell was just toooo gooood 😂 Ordered a ham and cheese one. Very tasty. It’s a very fine pancake. Thinner than a crêpe. Once done and folded up the dough was kind of crusty and easy to eat. The chocolate once were cut in little squares which could also be taken care off without making a mess.

02.13. Monday

My 16-week trip came to an end. Today if all goes well my departure on a Air Oman flight will be at 20:30. After a 6:30h flight and a stop in Muscat the next plane take off at local time 02:45 and get me into Frankfurt tomorrow morning at 07:05. By noon I had to check-out. What I did. I was able to stay in a transfer room if I wanted to. Airconditioned also and also could have a shower close by before heading to the airport. They were well organized. I guess I wasn’t the first one with a departure in the evening. I went again towards the restaurants and the beach and could not resist but had to get a full body massage at yesterday’s massage salon. Again, very professional, good and low cost. Had a light lunch and a beer and went back to the hotel reading a book. By 6pm the driver dropped me off at the airport. Customs and Security took a while but nothing out of the extraordinary. Had 1,5h wait at the gate and an on-time departure. The 2h layover at the Muscat Airport was good in a way that I did walk a lot and also filled up my body with some extra liquid. Also, here a on time departure.

02.14. Tuesday

The flight was uneventful, besides the fact that my TV screen did not work. But I was able to kill the around 7h in the plane otherwise. Had also taken a Melatonin to get some sleep. On-time landing at 07:10. 2,5h later my train left to Stuttgart. The temperature was good in my appartement. Before taking care of my luggage, I went shopping for food. No frozen foods available in my fridge. Just canned items. Had to get my normal grocery items.  As I am writing these diary notes 6 weeks have passed. Filled with Dr. appointments to get myself back onto track. Accounting still not touched.

I thought I would never hear me say that, but after 16 weeks of travelling, for the first time in my life, I wanted to be home again. I even opted against a 4 or 5 day stay in Oman. I would really have liked to do that, but just was not in the mood anymore. Just wanted to be home.

2 Week USA & 4 Weeks Camping in West Australia 2022.10.20 – 2022.12.10

10.19. Wednesday

The past week or so, I put any item I thought I could use during the upcoming trip in my living room close to my largest open suitcase. Only when I returned on the 19th around lunch time after a meeting in Hochdorf, I started to select what I thought were the main items out this collection of things and added into my suitcase. Parallel I made lunch and later dinner, cleaned the house, changed the sheets, washed cottons and synthetics, and ironed where necessary. The first time I put my case onto my scale it weight 29,6kg. Much more, than what I was allowed to for a checked luggage item. The hard selection began. I made it down to 24,5kg and let it be. The main items I took out were a bottle of wine and a heavy multiple tool set as well as other smaller items that I could purchase if needed along the way. I just hope that I do not regret, letting my “Leatherman” like tool set behind, once I am on my 4×4 Camper trip.

10.20. Thursday Stuttgart – Philadelphia

After 3 ¾ h of sleep I got up at 4:15 and by 05:55 (10 minutes late) I was entering the Taxi I had ordered after finding out earlier that the first U5 tram would be getting me too late to the airport. The rest of the trip went smooth. My “Last Supper” was as so often lately a Bavarian White Sausage with Sweet Mustard and a Brezel. All my papers, ESTA immigration forms and the Covid-Vaccination certificates, I uploaded already. At no point of the travel I was ever asked about them again.

The wait at FRA was 5h, as the plane to Philly was exchanged and it took time set it all up and cater it. At approx. 08:20h later we landed safe and by 7pm I was waiting for the Thrifty/Dollar shuttle bus to take me to the rental car counter. It did not come and me and some others walked the short distance across the airport and 30 minutes later I was on the way to the Days Inn at the Roosevelt Boulevard (not one that I will stay again). From there I tried several times unsuccessfully to contact Frank.

10.21. Friday – Philadelphia

This morning after a good 6h sleep I finally reached Frank. We arranged that I would pick him up. But first I was looking for a breakfast restaurant. I ended up at Great Awakening Café. Good coffee and a great croissant. I picked Frank up at home at round 10am and we drove to the elevated Frankford train line that took us downtown. The Reading Terminal Market https://readingterminalmarket.org/about-the-market/history/ was the goal. It opened for business on February 22, 1893. As it declined over the years, a renewal was started in the 1990’s as the whole area was reshaped. I was there the first time 3 years ago and I wanted to spend some more time there to learn more about it. The old train station was partially converted. The Market East Station replaced it. Today’s Market Hall shows the old historic metal beam construction. It’s a hall that covers the whole block between Arch and Filbert Street. It’s not much of a grocery market left but there are many foods stands that covers all the different kitchens of all nations that make up the US population. There were also some meets, cheese, vegetable stands left, but in the minority. All in all, lots of very intensive energy and different foods. We choose a regular Deli, and I only had a wrap. Frank wasn’t in the mood to eat anything. 1 ½ h later we went back towards Franks home. I dropped him off and went on to my hotel. After a short rest we met again at around 5:30pm as Mary wanted to make dinner. It was mashed potatoes, spinach, and salmon. Very tasty and an enjoyable evening. I stayed until 09:30pm

10.22. Saturday – Philadelphia

I picked up Frank at 11am and we went straight to “Tiffany On The Boulevard” https://tiffanyontheblvd.com/ . A nice, renovated Restaurant that also served Breakfast. By 1:30 we were back at Frank’s place. We parted. I did some shopping at an ALDI and tested a Starbucks Cappuccino for the first time in about 5 or 6 years. I felt, that the Hummus prices at ALDI were lower than in Germany. Of course, as Thanksgiving inches closer, ALDI too, offered Turkeys also. Went back to the hotel to do some washing. Returned to Frank’s home at 4pm to pick him and Mary up to visit his son Russel and Family at his house with his daughter Rachel and his siter Karen. It was a nice and entertaining pre- and dinner time. It wasa well prepared and tasty Roast beef with veggies and an apple cobbler for dessert. By 9pm we left, and I dropped Mary and Frank off and returned to the hotel. We agreed that I pick them up at 12:45 tomorrow for lunch at Gollo’s Seafood Restaurant / www.gallosandburgerbar.com .

10.23. Sunday Philadelphia

 The Great Awakening Café was closed, and I decided to just have water and nuts for breakfast. I checked out at 10am. By closing my large suitcase, I realized for the xx time that the zipper had an issue and did not close over a length of 20-30mm. I went to Kohl’s and saw one for $199 but felt for the next trips a belt should be sufficient. But did not find one. I will check during the stops to follow. I was punctual for the pickup. When I checked on Gollo’s I thought that they did not want to put all their money on fish. They also had a Burger Bar to cover the meat lovers. I was looking forward to geta grilled fish but at the end I choose a Crap Cake Sandwich. Just before I dropped Mary and Frank off, Frank asked a question that we had discussed earlier. He did not remember that he asked that before. That had happened over the days several time and I let it go. This time I saw that Mary looked at me and as I dropped them off and she said good bye, she spoke with me about it. I just asked if the Family knows that he had an early stage of dementia she said yes. It was a relief for me, as I wondered if they had recognized his health status. It is sad when you see a longtime friend slipping away. Must be a terrible feeling when one is realizing at an early stage that its memory is drifting off. Once we had parted, I left for the King of Prussia Mall. Actually, the third largest in the country. Once done and on my way again towards the Travelodge Hotel at the airport, I made a wrong turn. Could not go back and suddenly was on the turnpike which did cost money and I had refused to activate the unit on the windscreen when picking up the car. I might get an additional invoice later😏 No food tonight just again water and nuts. The Hotel was an original Travelodge. Meaning it rooms and such were old school style with lots of plastic in the sheets and covers showed some wear (melted cigarette holes etc. and tear. But that’s what you get when choosing the cheapest hotel on the block.

10.24. Monday Philly to Chicago

I wondered about the luggage situation when checking in at the Southwest counter. They had written that much about sizes and weight that I worried if I qualify for checked luggage or if it would have to go as freight. Well, apparently, I passed all critical points well and I could drop off my luggage and pass through security fast at 8 am.  I was early and I had time to kill, I opted for a breakfast which was a hot sandwich. The flight was fine and after arrival at the Midway airport I took a cab to the Hotel Versey Days Inn by Wyndham Chicago www.hotelversey.com (a long name but in this case a good choice) in Lincoln Park. The room was very small, but the hotel all together very nice. I purchased a 3 day CTA ticket at the vending machine at the CTA Diversey station which was closest to the hotel. I went towards the city with the elevated Brown Line. I did some small shopping for Aspirin pills, a US wall phone charger (110V) and a belt for my suitcase and zig zagged through downtown Chicago. Want to buy a new one but prior wanted to look at a selection of suitcases and not have just to be the next best one. For a late lunch or early dinner, I visited Billy Goat a blue collar Tavern www.billygoattavern.com. Jim Driscoll showed it to me some 30 years ago and I still like the experience once in a while. In the early days, the newsprint workers went there to have a bite and beer at lunchtime or dinner. I went back to the hotel. Had to take photos of the wall decoration created out of painted simple bicycle chains. My jetlag was still haunting me. Had a 2h nap and later I added 4h later another 4h or so.

10.25. Tuesday – PackExpo

 Having attended the show for so many years I wanted to know personally how this show is today and if it changed due to Covid. It was busy but not easy to see, what one wanted to see, as the booths of different interest were scattered in 4 halls. My feet and legs hurt after I was done. I went home via the green and brown line. It had been raining on and off all day and of course it was raining on my walk back the 4 or 5 blocks to the hotel from the station. As dinner I choose the mfk. Restaurant www.mfkrestaurant.com close by. It showed some Spanish food items on its menu. Ordered Boquerones and Seafood Fideos. Where quite well prepared but of course the taste was different than expected. Price was definitely steep: $95 (incl. 2 beers and a glass of red) without tip.

10.26. Wednesday – Museum of Science and Industry

Again the 2 step sleep pattern continued. Was up at 04:50. As the Chicago Art Institute was closed today, I purchased a ticket for the Museum of Science and Industry. But first I would like to have a good cup of coffee and possibly some warm bite. On my walk over to the train station I passed Dom’s Kitchen & Market www.domschicago.com/ Had a coffee and a hot sandwich there. From there again by train to the city where I changed onto the #6 Bus that I left at the Museum of Science and Industry https://www.msichicago.org . It was quite pricy. Had additionally booked a entry to the “Art of the Brick” Exhibition and an VR Transporter Holo Lens experience for together €48. The first exhibit was impressive. The Pioneer Zephyr https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pioneer_Zephyr was placed before even having passed through the entry gate. The Museum was interesting however many sections were tailored to the Schoolchildren that were here today also in high numbers. Visited also the Art Of The Brick Exhibition https://artofthebrickexhibit.com/ It took me 4h to get through the whole Museum. Left by bus towards the city. Got off the bus at Michigan & Ida B Wells Drive. West and north, looked at the large Harold Washington Center. Had seen on the way to the Museum a BAO chain restaurant and wanted to try it. Food was good but not what I was looking for. Found later also the Magazine “Traditional Home” that Marjory asked me to bring her, if I ever would find it. I did😁

On the walk back from the train station to the hotel I picked up a coffee and a Muffin and went back to the room. As I had slept very little last night, I changed my habits and tried successfully to fall asleep around 4pm for 2h. That allows hopefully to work through my evening and going to bed late.

10.27. Thursday – Chicago – Cincinnati

It was an easy travel from bus stop right next to the hotel exit, to the Logan Square transfer station and from there on the blue line to the O’Hare Airport. All include in my 3-day travel pass on the CTA public transportation card for $20. Had lunch at the airport before taking an AA flight to Cincinnati. Perfect weather for arial photos of the like and Chicago as well as Cincinnati and its airport. The airport there had quite changed. The C Terminal was gone. The Rental Car location now close to the arrival hall. At the Dollar rental car was a nice & large Jeep waiting for me. Had a smaller one booked but hey, I did not complain. On the way to the hotel, I checked at the Dillard’s Outlet Center if the Roundtree & York Performance Polos that I like were available. They were not. Saturday I will check at their regular Mall locations north of the City. Went on to Jungle Jim’s and found after some 15 minutes of searching the Papi Joes Tennessee Peper Sauce http://www.papijoes.com/ . I found the La Rosas Spaghetti and Montgomery Inn BBQ Sauce at the new Krooger Market Place at Princeton Glendale & Tylersville Rd https://www.kroger.com/stores/grocery/oh/west-chester/crossings-of-beckett/014/00959?cid=loc_01400959_bg They had closed the old one and built a new one 2 or 3 times as large a few 100m north. A La Rosas was close so I ordered there my standard Small thin crust meat lovers Pizza with an extra cup of Montgomery Inn BBQ Sauce on the side. The Comfort Inn & Suites at West Chester https://www.choicehotels.com/de-de/ohio/west-chester/comfort-inn-hotels/oh234?mc=llbillpx&pmf=local&checkInDate=2023-03-14&checkOutDate=2023-03-15 was reached in 10 more minutes and check in was an ease.  Some nuts for dinner and falling asleep at around 11pm followed by an 8 1/2h of sleep.

10.28. Friday – Cincinnati

After a coffee I went straight to the SUSA office looking for shipping boxes and sorting the goods for Madrid and myself. Had a brief talk with Nena and Richard. Had lunch at Skyline Chilly and watched a robot bringing the trays to the tables where customers could take it off onto their table. Was thinking did the woman that also carried food items or watched the robot know it would cost her job at one time🤷‍♂️ As Widmer’s Cleaner had no 24h Service any more I went to the Hotel washing my cloths. The lady at Widmer’ Cleaner remembered me, and I was able to get some simple hangers for my travels. Had a brief nap and went on to the Monroe Outlet Mall to have a look at Samsonite. My Zipper had not improved. To pay $600 for a new Samsonite suitcase at an Outlet store I didn’t have on my mind. A small dinner at Aladdin’ Eatery in West Chester followed. By 11pm I was ready to turn the light off.

10.29. Saturday – Cincinnati

Long sleep, breakfast and doing laundry. By 11 I left hotel, stopped at Starbucks had a coffee and some Dark Chocolate covered Grahams. Went on to SUSA to take some photos (Parking & Drive Way) and go towards the TRI County Mall. I was very surprised to see it shut down. Read in the Net that a new development including housing, offices and restaurants is being planned. Went on to Blue Ash to have a look at Metalex. They put onto our old location a huge building similar to the one where they have the large regrinding machines. On I drove to the Kenwood Mall but stopped before a stop at a Penn Station location to have a Chicken Teriyaki Sandwich (no Chips nor French fries with it.. Checked at 2 shops if Polos as I need them would be available. Too late all items were tailored towards the Winter and the once available had no pocket. Wanted to have some Chicken Nuggets and a salad at McDonalds. The doors were closed, but drive through open. This 4h before closing. Instead, I went to a Buffalo Wild Wing and got myself a beer, some Cheese Nachos with Chili and 6 Wings with BBQ sauce. At least double or triple the volume I would have had at McDonalds. By now it was just about 8pm. 

10. 30. Sunday – Cincinnati

Slept until 8:30am, got 2 cups of coffee from the breakfast room, of which I spilled one. The carpet had a coffee to light brown mixture of colors, and I could only see where it was wet when tapping the carpet with some tissue. Dropped before going Downtown a copy of a WIWO for Nena at SUSAS letter box. Had planned to visit the National Underground Railway Freedom Centerhttp://www.freedomcenter.org/ I liked how it explained very detailed the issue from 1700 onward until today’s including today’s child labor, prostitution slaved labor, …… Took me about 2h to get through. Made also photos of the new development along the river on the Ohio side. Impressive! A nice place to live but when games are on, it might be a nightmare. As I left it started raining. Having ahd a large meal last night I wanted something simple. It was a cup of Chili and Chicken/Avocado Salad at Wendy’s. Tried McDonald for a Hot Fudge Sundae but again doors closed and at the drive through I was told it was not available. So it was again Starbucks with some Chocolate covered  Grahams and a decaf Cappuccino before I returned to the Hotel. Had to write my notes of the last days, wash my hair and get my suitcase ready for tomorrows early flight to Denver and Orange County.

10.31. Monday – Cincinnati to Palm Desert/Palm Springs

Got up early at 5:45pm and on time at airport. Plane was on time too and after 3,5h flight we touched down at Denver. The mountain peaks behind Denver were all covered with snow. After a 1,5h layover and change of planes I sw from my window a lot of plain country (besides o thers we passed over or by: Duck Lake-– Dillon Reservoir,……). It was quite a difference when approaching the John Wayne Airport in Orange County 2 1/2h later and seeing the and urban sprawl. Because it was early in the day, I drove with the rental to an Outlet Mall, bought 2 American Eagle Jeans and went on driving towards Palm Springs. Traffic at 3pm was more than slow, but eventually I arrived at the hotel. Had a wash day and later a light dinner at Kitchen-86 & Bar at El Paseo in Palm Desert https://www.kitchen-86.com

11.01. Tuesday – Palm Dessert/Palm Springs

Met with Stuart on their terrace and in distance due to Covid at around 9:30 am. John was nt feeling well and did not participate. Dropped my presents as the last 2 years DHL was unable to deliver them. Later I did some shopping and went on for a 5h drive also through the Joshua Tree Park. Very strange dessert and various rock formations within 40km driving radius. Later at a lower altitude it changed and the Colorado desert that spans Southern Arizona and North Western Mexico and is part of the large Sonoran Desert takes over. Both with different plants and animals. Again, lots of Photos that I might have to delete, as they are mostly meaningless to others and I will not often look at them again either. Dinner, once I was back, was taken at Catalan

Mediterranean http://www.catalanrestaurants.com .I did not see the Catalan Cook, but just Mexican employees😉 Food was good but I think I have to change and eat in simpler restaurants. At the end the bill was 120€.

11.02. Wednesday Palm Desert to Pioneertown & finally to Temecula

(From Palm Desert on Rt-74, left turn onto Rt 371, right turn onto Rt-79?

Left the hotel at 9am. Did some shopping for compression socks that I forgot at home as well as some pain and sleeping pills that I just in case purchased if needed in Australia. On I went towards Pioneertown a small movie set but also with permanent homes that have been designed in the same historic style or at least facades. I purchased a small souvenir out of Bismuth https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bismuth for my collection at home. The recommended restaurant/Bar Pappy & Harriets http://www.pappyandharriets.com was closed at the time but will open at 5pm as a concert is scheduled. At the same time of my visit I saw a camper come in that I saw already yesterday. He had a LB for Ludwigsburg License plate. Had it shipped his Semi-Integrated Motorhome built on a Sprinter chassis, from Germany and is allowed to stay in the US for a year. On the way back I stopped at the Yucca Valley. Had a cup of coffee and a Muffin at the Frontier Café http://www.cafefrontier.com Especially the coffee was excellent. I thought it would be empty, but the room was full of young people. All dressed a bit alternatively. Maybe the once that life in the houses in the desert I saw🤷‍♂️On the way back to the car I passed a collection of old and rusty cars at Hills Towing http://www.hillstowing.com. Not sure if it is his or someone else’s. One of them was an old VW Bulli Camper (approx. 1970). From here I passed by the Palm Desert and went to La Quinta and there to the “Old Center” Well it was new. Looked like old and quite nice to look at with also outside seating at several restaurants, that were well attended. My next goal was to see the PGA West Golf Course and see what the Greg Norman Golf Shop had to show. The whole building was under renovation. Therefore a few photos of the golf course And on I went towards Palm Desert to have a quick small lunch at Carl’s Jr. Burger joint. From here a 30$ gas refill and on Rt. 74 and Rt, 177 towards Aguanga where I wanted to make the decision once that if I would drive towards Julien or not. The drive was wonderful (2 lane roads) with great views and impressions as only mother nature can create it. When starting I was in a dry Desert. As I got higher in altitude (up to 300ft) it became greener with bushes, trees and palms. I wished I had my Porsche with me instead a small Ford SUV. At one point I was not sure if it was a reflection or a radar that flashed. It would have been approx. 10 miles above the 55 m/h speed limit. Once in Aguanga I decided to go straight to the hotel in Temecula. I was tired and the sun was on the way down. Julian was once a mining town and possibly some other time I can see what’s left from that time-period there.  I did finish my notes for the day, have in mind to go to Wendy’s for a small salad and Chili dinner. The Cowgirl Restaurant https://ilovethecowgirl.com John and Stuart recommended, I forgot about. Maybe tomorrow.   

11.03. Thursday Palm Desert Temecula to Ontario (Rt-79 to St. Julian, back towards LA on Rt-79, left (straight) onto Rt78 to Escandido and onto I-15 Ontario and Hotel) As I thought about today’s activity it became clear to me that “some other time” would be today. The drive started at 9am after the breakfast. It was cold (41/42F) and windy. The road (Rt-79) was 2 lane road. Windy and fun to drive. As yesterday. As I gained altitude the land changed again. It became greener, farmland with pastures. I saw citrus fruit plantations, Nurseries and later even horses and cows. The first glimpse of the past mining history I saw about 5 miles before the actual city. Some old and rusty mining machinery and items. I did not visit at this temperature the Eagle Mine. Once an active gold mine now turned into a tourist attraction. The other big thing at Julian is the Hard Cider (as example http://www.calicoranch.com/) and Honey. The village has kept its old houses. One or the other had to be renovated but all in all it looks very authentic. Unfortunately, at above 400ft it got cold. I saw a car with snow on its windscreen. I choose to visit the Julian Bakery and Café. It was packed. Had a coffee and the smallest breakfast possible, a Ham and Cheese Croissant with some fruits instead French fries. Once I left 45 minutes later it had stopped drizzling and the sun was out again but still windy and cold. Walked Main Street, visited some shops, went back to the car and started driving back towards the hotel. After Julian I saw a large assembly of buildings and wondered. Found out it was the Nucal Egg Ranch https://nucalfoods.net/index.html Stopped also for a quick check if I could find a power adapter at Office Depot od Walmart. Which was not the case. Instead, I went for a cup of coffee, to a Starbuck location at the other side of the road. I came close to Temecula again but did not choose to eat there as I had basically 2 breakfasts today. At 4pm I was at the Candlewood Suites and started to write and correct my notes.

11.04. Friday Ontario to Huntington and on to Brisbane

I checked-out at 10:30 and was at the Huntington and Garden earlier tan expected. It is an impressive sized land with nice Gardens and buildings https://huntington.org It took me 4h but still had not seen all. The most impressive items for me at the Art and Library sections were the Gutenberg Bible and the 2 portraits one from Thomas Gainsborough’s  “The Blue Boy” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Blue_Boy and opposite of it a modern “A Portrait of a Young Gentleman” painting from artist Kehinde Wiley https://huntington.org/exhibition/kehinde-wiley-portrait-young-gentleman. The Gardens I enjoyed too. Thought that the Japanese Garden was a bit different from the once I had seen in Japan and the Australian one kind of overshadowed by the 2 huge gumtrees. But never the less interesting to see and explore. Had coffee twice plus a sandwich. At the end I drove 1h towards the airport took a bus from the Dollar car rental just to jump out of it again at the first red light. Had forgotten my dark leather/cotton jacket in the dark trunk. Car was still sitting where I got out of it and in no time, I was back in a bus towards the LAX International Terminal. Passing through the different station was just a question of time not of issues. The plane took off on time at 21:40 and 14,5 hours later we were landing punctually the next morning at 5am at the Brisbane airport.

 11.06. Sunday – Brisbane

Landed at 5:40am. Flight was good, I had taken a 3mg Melatonin tablet and was kind of sleeping. My watch read as 6,5h of sleep this night. It felt more like a dream. I passed all the inspections and controls without issues and was at 05:45 in the arrival hall just writing an email to Gary when he approached me. In now time we were at his place where I met Marjory. Had a coffee at the balcony and exchanged information about the various situation of the past 3 years that we had not seen each other. Later we went downtown for me to purchase a Pre-Paid SIM card for the next 3 months and toured a bit through the city and its surroundings. Like in Sydney the face of the city changes fast. New high risers where ever you look. The rest of the day we spend at home. Me taking a 2h nap and finishing the day with a nice lam boast and veggies with a red wine.

11.07. Monday – Brisbane

It was decided that we would drive towards Tamborine Mountain. The Village was aligned along the main road. We  opted fo a coffee and stopped at the Café on Tamborine and after a coffee and a cheesecake left for a Souvenir shop (run by two ladies from Germany) to stroll through it and see if some decorative items would be in favor of Margery. A stop at Witches Falls Winery http://www.witchesfalls.com.au/ was next. We choose to go through a wine tasting with a cheese platter and opted to purchase some bottles. Mine were sent to my family in Sydney. On the way back we stopped again at a at the St Bernards Hotel http://stbernardshotel.com.au/no Hotel but a Pub. This mainly for the views. We had full view to the east as we before had it towards the west at a site where normally paragliders would take off. As the kitchen had closed we had drinks and once dione we drove back home. There we I did write this notes and later Gary prepared a burger dinner that was quite taste 😋Again a few sips of red went well with it.

11.08. Tuesday – Brisbane

Today we wanted to go up the coast after the breakfast. By 10 we left and reached the coast at Brighton crossing the bay over the bridge and finally stopping close to the Radcliff Pier and choose The Oasis at the Esplanade www.oasiscafe.com.au for having a coffee and a small bite. Walked the beach, went out on the pier. As a second stop Marjory and Gary had the Belvedere Hotel at Woddy’s Point www.belvederehotel.com  in mind. When we reached it it was in the process to be toprn down or at least a major renovation or add on took place. A newer looking shed like building was available for having a drink and/or food. On the way back we visited the Christmas Shack www.christmasshack.com.au at Sandgate Rd. in Virginia. Apparently, the largest Christmas Shop in QLD. All day long the rain hung in around Perth but avoided us. When leaving Woody’s Point we caught a few drops. The rest of the drive back home was dry again but wind was on all the time. For Dinner its cold cut lamb roast, some cheese, and crackers as well as some wine. It should be sufficient food on the plate for all.

11.09. Wednesday – Brisbane / Perth

By 04:30 the car was packed and we were ready to leave. Gary drove me to the airport in just about 15 minutes. The passage through the various station was quick and I had time to have a simple toast and a coffee. The 737-800 was full. The seat configuration different to the intercontinental flight and much tighter. It was difficult to get out the window seat into the aisle. I watched to films and the time passed fast. Even tough I had something to eat at the airport, I could not restrain from eating the offered omelet. We landed at 10am local time after a 5,5h flight. The IBIS hotel did not have a room available that early so I walked the city for just about 5h. I shopped for some camping books and looked for some shorts but have also tomorrow available to finally get everything together that I need for the 4-week road trip. Having gone west I collected another 2h of time change. Hope I overcome it quick but have no one (besides TV) that keeps me up in the evenings.

11.10. Thursday – Perth

Had to get a few items. Found a WA Map, purchased 2 pair of socks, a T-Shirt and a beige Shorts for hiking. As I walked through the main streets I passed an exhibition/Gallery where the Floribots where exhibited https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLl0zKBnBoY .  Visited the Bell Tower, https://www.thebelltower.com.au/perth-attractions/the-anzac-bell and walked the city again. Also to the southeast and the Watertown Brand Outlet Centre http://www.watertownbrandoutlet.com.au . Worked on searching and listing possible activities for my upcoming tour. Tried to prebook an Uber to the rental car station – unsuccessful. Will see what’s happening tomorrow and order a Taxi if no one shows up. So far it looks as if booking did not go through even so, the money was put on hold on my card account.

11.11. Friday – Perth / Cervantes

At 09:45am I got out of an Uber at the Apollo station close to Perth’s airport. By 10:15 it was my turn at the reception and by 13:15 I was done with loading and storing my items into the 4×4 Camper https://www.apollocamper.com/Vehicles/4WDs/Adventure-Camper . It’s my home for the next 4 weeks. I started to drive towards Cervantes https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/destination/cervantes where I had booked 3 nights at the RAC Cervantes Holiday Park https://parksandresorts.rac.com.au/cervantes . Cost was AUS$153. The drive was just interrupted by stopping at grocery stores to get my food items for the coming days. After the check-in I had a beer out of my cooler while walking along the beach and watching the sun go down. Cervantes Bar & Bistro was next, for dinner. Fish and chips and 2 “Little Creatures” beers did the job. Cervantes was named to a whaling ship that was wrecked close by. Most if not all street names are also given Spanish names https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/cervantes-wa .  

11.12 Saturday – Cervantes / National Parks

Woke up after 7:45h of sleep. Unfortunately, I went asleep early therefore woke up early. By 8am I stood in line for a good cappuccino, a Ham & Cheese toast as well as a Blueberry Muffin. Took it slow and by 11am I had packed up and left the camp ground towards the Nambung-Nationalpark http://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/nambung and its famous Pinnacles Desert Lookout and Drive https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/site/pinnacles-desert-lookout-and-drive It was my second time there. I at the same time purchased a WA wide National Park Access. Right after this Park I drove to the next one Lesueur National Park https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/lesueur-national-park At the shop of the Pinnacle Park it was stated that I had to go and see it aa blooming was still on. What can I say, toooooo many pictures to show. The dirt roads leading to and leaving from it were unsealed and quite rough. Only at speeds of above 70km it was bearable, and the car was stable and without vibrations. The last stop I took, was Green Head, a coastal settlement. I took a touristic drive along the coastline and again had to take a few photos. Not having had lunch and eying a bit to get a meal at Lobster Shak in Cervantes I went to a Café and could beside the cappuccino not eresist some custard. Very sweet but good and different. At Julien Bay I did not stop. Something for tomorrow. It seemed it was bigger then either Cervantes or Green Head. Once at Lobster Shack, the kitchen was closed since 3pm so a beer had to do it. I guess I will be back again at Cervantes Bar & Bistro for dinner. I thought with driving between 100 and 110km as an average once outside towns and even on the unsealed roads the daily possible distance was easy to determine if no extra stop and sightseeing would take place. In the morning I had already booked the Kalbarri Red Bluff Tourist Park for on Monday night. Leaving at around 10am would get me into Kalbarri at around 3 to 4pm.

11.13 Sunday – Cervantes & Jurien Bay

I took it easy today. It was 11 as I left the camp site and drove just around the corner to the Lake Thetis https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Thetis Its famous for its living marine stromatolites that exist only at a very few other sites worldwide. From there I went North to Jurien Bay https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/destination/jurien-bay . Stopped at a gas station for Diesel and purchased a few items I felt I should have them at the local IGA. Went on to the center of town so to speak. Meaning the beach access close to a large Campground with public Restaurant, a large playground and lots of parking spots. The queue in the restaurant for a coffee was not as my liking. Therefore, I went to a little mobile kiosk that was close to the playground. As I found out I was his last customer for the day. Aparently, he started already at 6am. Not bad for a Sunday and with sufficient customers as he told me. Had a Cappuccino and a sausage roll even though I had had eggs, beans and tomato for breakfast. There was not much to do at Jurien Bay therefore I went back towards Cervantes. 15km later I turned left into a small road leading up to a viewpoint. Took some photos and went on to drive back. I was in time to sit down at the Lobster Shack http://www.lobstershack.com.au/ for lunch. Not that I was hungry. But again ½ grilled Lobster was not something that would make a difference. The small beer neither. I watched the sea gulls watching us and how they fought for their share of food once someone left the table and either had not eaten all of his food or let his food on the table while picking up cutlery or such, that one might have forgotten. It was entertaining watching them how they figured out where and when someone was uncareful. The rest of the day including a short nap went well. For the first time I eat in. Bred with some ham. Also opened a bottle of red Proximo from Marques de Riscal. Had sympathy for them to at least try to sell wine in a country lite Australia. Will repurchased the ham tomorrow in Jurien Beach at the IGA. Have also to get some plastic bags to seal in items where I had opened the package but not finished it. I had a refrigerator but did not want to help mold to grow.  I don’t like travelling with bags. The consequence was that my suitcase was kind of in the way every day. As I traveled alone, I did not care.

11.14 Sunday – Jurien Bay / Kalbarri

Today’s stage was roughly 450km long. I passed through or by places like Jurien Bay, Port Denison/Dongara, Geraldton, Northampton, Port Gregory and finally I arrived in Kalbarri Mostly the landscape provided the images. First it was bush and scrub and then canged into Farmland with no green gras but cows & sheep on the fields. That changed again into a golden landscape as far as the eye could see. https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/region/kalbarri Full of grain ready to be harvested.

An that’s what was already done, was in the process to and/or waiting for been harvested. Mobile silos been on the field into which the smaller collecting vehicles delivered the grain just when full it’s all been transferred into Road Train Lorries that got them to Ports such as Geraldton. Huge Silos were waiting to accept millions of tons of grain. Some years back 2.618.500 tons passed annually through its port. This was definitely grain Country.  I had also a stop at Dongara. Passed an old rebuilt single room house that was converted into a Café. Buy local support local was the motto. Maybe even a no profit set up. I had a Cappuccino and a quiche Lorraine for lunch. The highlight of the trip today was however the pink lake close to Gregory Across it was a BASF plant that extracted BETA Carotene out of its waters. When opening the car door in Port Gregory after I saw the Pink Lake a wind gust hit the door and overextended the opening angle. There was a sharp breaking noise and at first I saw no issue. Only later I saw that a rod that controlled the holding points when opening a car door was disengaged and broken. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaojfZmNOiw At around 4:30pm I was arrived at my next Camp Ground https://summerstar.com.au/caravan-parks/kalbarri about 5km south of Kalbarri. It seemed to be brand new. I had an ensuite powered site. Meaning I had a 230V connection & my own bathroom and toilette. So far I had no negative experience with either of the 2 Camp Ground Chains that I have used so far RAC https://parksandresorts.rac.com.au and Summerstar www.summerstar.com.au I am sure that I will use one of the BIG4 www.big4.com.au once in the future too. Due to the Cyclone that went through Kalbarri in 2020 https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-04-13/cyclone-seroja-leaves-kalbarri-residents-in-state-of-shock/100064564 some of the houses, restaurants and motels were not rebuilt yet. Right after check-in I went into town to visit a car mechanic. After I checked in at the Campground I went on and looked for the Kalbarri Auto Center 6 Southerland Street in Kalbarri (08) 99371290 https://www.kalbarri.org.au/local-business/kalbarri/kalbarri-auto-centre   kalbarriautocentre@westnet.com.au . The owner Glen Hancock mentioned that if he had a PO by 9am he could get the part early afternoon and be done with it a little later.  Due to Covid the personal was also an issue and not many restaurants I wanted to get in were open. The once open I did not like. Therefore, I had 2 slices of bread with some cheese and a glass or two of red at my camper. No more was needed 😊

11.15 Tuesday – Kalbarri & National Park

At 06:15 WA time I called Brisbane where the headquarter of Apollo was located. The girl on the phone promised me quick answer about the issue via email. I had while we were on the phone emailed some photos that explained the issue well. The mechanic needed a PO number and also , as it was not my car he could not work on it without permission from Apollo even if I would pay to get it done fast. I knew his cut off time for any shipment from Geraldton’s Toyota dealer to him would be 10am. Otherwise the shipment would arrive next day. To cut it short all went well and the part arrived just after 3pm. I in the meantime I was checking all the viewpoints along the coast and also 2 within the Kalbarri NP of which one was a skywalk. Just as I was on the way back the mechanic called me and 25 minutes later, I stopped the car in front of the garage. The exchange of the parts went well and 1h later I was on my way to town to get gas, a six pack and went to the Jetty Seafood Shack to dive into a Fish & Chips. www.kalbarri.org.au/the-jetty-seafood-shack The mechanic had said – The Best Fish In Town and that’s what it was. Not many alternatives to choose from🤷‍♂️. Back at the Camp Ground I set up the car again, did some washing and with the wind it had dried all of it within 45 minutes. My homework/notes concluded the activities of today, besides 1 or 2 beers😉.

11.16 Wednesday – Kalbarri to Monkey Mia

It was again an approx. 400km drive. Just stopped to get gas and a coffee and a bite at the BP gas station at Billabong Roadhouse.A German woman from Cottbus was working there. Lived in Perth but worked here. I guess similar to miners “fly in – fly” out situation. Who wants to live permanently and work here. Once off Hwy 1 at the Overlander Roadhouse and in the Shark Bay area while on Rt 353 towards Nanga and Denham I started to get on and off the main road and followed the turn off signs to the viewpoints such as: Hamlin Pool Stromatolites  https://www.sharkbay.org/place/hamelin-pool , Shell Beach https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/destinations/shark-bay/shell-beach  , Eagle Bluff Lookout https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/products/eagle-bluff   & Passing the 26th Parallel, shortly after I arrived at Denham https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/denham-wa . The only Town on this Peninsula. There was another site, the Hamelin Station https://www.hamelinstationstay.com.au , but that was closed. I would not much else than the other sites mentioned above. From the 4×4, sitting higher, I saw quite often onto the long stretch of roads in front of me. Not many tourists here, so close to the rainy season. I had to assume that I passed more than one mining site hidden behind the trees, bushes and scrub. Once in a while a sign mentioned the organization and a particular one was the Coburn Mineral Sand Project https://www.mining-technology.com/projects/coburn-mineral-sands-project/ . The possible deposits are approx. 35km long, up to 3km wide and 5 to 40m thick. Again, besides some dirt tracks, Lorries and road graders one saw nothing of it. An aerial view would have provided different inside I guess. In Denham I was lucky to get a coffee and a slice of a good Banana Bread at the Shark Bay Café 15 minutes after it had officially closed. This thanks to the Vietnamese work culture. Consumed it across its location at a park with a nice view onto the Pacific Ocean and the local yachts bobbing. May stay for the coming 2 nights I had booked again in advance with on-suite bathroom at the RAC Holiday Park in Monkey Mia www.parksandresorts.rac.com.au/monkey-mia 2 beers, twisted Prawns, a small salad and 4 veggie spring rolls were my dinner. I will tomorrow morning pay my NP fee and also will ensure that I will be tomorrow morning at 7:30am at the Dolphin feeding point to at least have a good viewing point.

11.17 Thursday – Monkey Mia & Surroundings                                                                             

My instant Aldi Cappuccino was first before getting going with every day’s procedures. First I went to the viewing area for the morning feeding of the dolphins. The Dolphins came in already at 07:15. The whole action, checking for tickets, explaining the academic background of what was shown as well as details about those specific Dolphins special to this area. The history of the feeding of the dolphins goes back to the 1960s. As the fishers cleaned their catch of the day, they throw it back into the sea where the dolphins realized that there was a free breakfast. Once it was decided that the fishers would be relocated in 1984 researchers arrived and since then studied the dolphins. It’s the oldest dolphin research program in the world. The feeding continued but now for the tourist, as the RAC Automobile Club won the rights to build a holiday park. I was reading that on certain days up to 800 people where watching the feeding. I took a real cappuccino from the bar with me back to the car, sat in a folding chair and read my guide book about todays options. I heard a silly noise but did not react. As at one time the noise came closer I looked into the eyes of an adult Emu not more than 5m away. He definitely was talking to me. I was frozen and my brain on lots of adrenalin in kind of a survival mode. I started to talk to it. Had no food on me nor in the car. As it turned around and walked away I got my telephone out of the car but just was able to take a photo of the little once. The adult was around the corner and out of sight.   I left with the car to the little lagoon. It’s connected by a canal to the sea. Several covered resting stations with restrooms were place around it to allow for a relaxed stay. I went by car along the canal and at the end got out to walk along it until it hit the sea. Saw one angler with a professional locking 4×4. Wide off-road tires, large engine! Once back in the car it took not long to see some kite surfers. Fast and far out. Shipped later in the city some souvenirs back to my grandchildren and had a burger for lunch. Next to my restaurant there was the Shark Bay Discovery Center. After paying my dues I wondered through the exhibits and learned with interest about the HSK Kormoran and the MAS Sydney https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinking_of_HMAS_Sydney The Aquarium south of Denham was closed but I went there anyway just to see what it is like. Not sure if I would pay the entrance fee once I saw it, but the coffee I got was good. Tonight, I only had some cheese with crackers and a red in my bus for dinner. Was not in the mood for any more food today but space left for a beer. On the way back I saw dark and not good looking clouds come in from the west. They passed by without creating issues.

11.18 Friday – Monkey Mia to Carnarvon

Started my drive back to the Hwy 1 over the Shark Bay World Heritage Drive from Monkey Mia to the Overlander Roadhouse. 350km to Carnarvon today. There I got some 65L Diesel and a Beef & Bacon Pie with a coffee. The drive along Hwy 1 is rather boring. Avoided a collision with a Wallaby and later 2 goats that were thinking about crossing the Hwy. On the way however the landscape changed a bit. Suddenly it was not bush any more as far as the eye could see but also higher and more trees were in the plant mix. Later a homestead came up. Coming really close to Carnarvon, farming was on https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/destination/carnarvon https://www.carnarvon.org.au/ . The area is well known for its bananas and many other vegetables they farm here. The large telescope told me I was close and opted in time to turn off and go towards the Harbour and downtown area to familiarize myself with it and have a coffee and a banana bread. It was quite windy. As by now it was 1pm. After some walking and visit to the Tourist office I drove the 4 or 5km to my camp site for the 2 nights to come, the Carnarvon Capricorn Holiday Park. Check-in was fast and after I parked at the site and raised the roof I started to read the West Australian and thereafter writing my notes. Did not unpack all as I have in mind to drive back to town by 5 or 6 for a fish dinner. By 5 I was at the Mar E Sol Restaurant. Thai Beef Salat was very good. Around 6pm I was on my way to the 1 mile Jetty. It was as I was reading closed due to unsafe condition. My guess is that after the Cyclone there was no money around to get it back in shape. The Light House Museum was closed and so the little museum edicated to the train and Railway that carried visitors on the Jetty closer to the sea.

11.19 Saturday –Carnarvon & Surrounding

Having eaten yesterday the 2 Greek yoghurts I had, I had to get new once. Therefore, I visited IGA. Of course, more than needed material in my bag. Put the cheese (brie) and 2 bottles of white wine from NZ, into the cooler as well as the yoghurts. Felt like a need for a real and not just my instant cappuccino I drove into the center and got lucky. One if the better ones I had so far on the trip. Beans come from Perth. Decided at that point and after some reading to visit the whale skeleton on display at a farm that also was in growing and displaying cactuses. By going there, I drove along many plantations for mainly bananas, but also lots of other for me unidentifiable fruit plants possibly Mango. Also, just to see it with some time available, I drove up to the Hwy 1 bridge over the Gascoyne River. It looks quite different when flooded. I insert a photo from Wikipedia below. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gascoyne_River By now it was time to visit the Space and Technology Museum https://www.carnarvonmuseum.org.au/ Its all run by volunteers. The exhibits are interesting and bring one back in time also on the hardware used. From here to the Quobba Blow Holes https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/destination/quobba-blowholes-carnarvon  it was just about 1h over regular road. A food caravan with a separate Generator was set up and during my visit the cook had quite some work to do. I ordered a box of chips and 4 slices of lightly battered fresh and local fish. To many chips. Gave some to a lonely seagull. The rest I took with me back to the campground. On the way back I passed a commercial operation that had set up an operation to produce BETA Carotene. The same idea as of what BASF did on the other side of Pink Lake, I visited 5 days ago. But here I think the bacteria and the salt levels of the waters were adjusted manually not as by mother nature was at the Pink Lake. During my drive today I also passed flood indicators. Max. 2 Meter. Don’t want to be there once such flood levels are on. Back at Carnarvon I went to the One Mile Jetty. The Jetty closed but the Café was open. A cake and a cappuccino later I was gone https://www.facebook.com/sunsetscafeatonemilejettycarnarvon  Had actually in mind to visit later the Mar E Sol Restaurant again for dinner after a nap at the van but changed my mind and had a small cold dinner in the Van with 2 beers instead. I am writing my notes and as yesterday, I might watch 1 or 2 videos off the ARD Mediathek again, after I finished my notes.

11.20 Sunday – Carnarvon to Exmouth

Had to have a cappuccino at Coffee To Go Carnarvon at 08:00am. It’s a little kiosk. One man operated and no food items. But who cares if the coffee is as good as it was – just awesome. Drank it while driving. Drove until the Better Choice Minilya Bridge Roadhouse. Again, a coffee and in this case 2 Bacon & Cheese pies. From here further on Rt 354 until the turn onto Minilya-Exmouth Rd. A good 45 minutes later I turned left again towards Coral Bay. Saw 2 eagles taking off as I approached them. Within a few seconds (until I had my photo activated) they were just about out of sight. I was under the impression it’s a small village, but it was a vacation hot spot for water sport enthusiasts. Nothing of interest for me, so after a few photos I went back to the main road and on towards Exmouth. Entered into the NINGALOO COAST – Coral Bay (Baiyungu Country https://baiyungudreaming.com.au/about-us ). It began with one Termite’s nest, but increased and I think the amount I saw was in the thousands. At one point they were gone. Why there and now not anymore?? Just after I passed an RAAF Air Base Learmonth I saw a WWII memorial – Operation Jaywick – Krait Memorial https://www.awm.gov.au/articles/encyclopedia/krait  https://www.awm.gov.au/articles/encyclopedia/operation_jaywick . From here it was only 15 minutes or so to Exmouth https://www.australiascoralcoast.com/destination/exmouth It was the first hot day with max. 35°C. I hope the forecast of 18C during the night becomes true. Had between several beers a phone call with my sisters, washed a few cloths and prepared for a dinner at the Whalebone Brewery https://www.whalebonebrewing.com.au There I consumed besides 2 beers a good tasting thin crust Pizza

11.21 Monday – Exmouth / Cape Range NP & back

After 9h of sleep, I made me a cup of coffee. The water Kettle with just the amount of water needed. I must not have switched it off after I poured the water in my cup. As I poured water again for a second cup and pushed the lever to start it, nothing happened. Searched and found the Earlybird Cafe https://www.facebook.com/people/Earlybird-Cafe/100063546970134/ Good coffee and a Ham & Cheese Croissant. A German Lady from the east ran it. Later in the day I found at Exmouth Betta Home Living a new hot water kettle. I had passed earlier the Niungaloo Visitor Center but they were still closed https://www.ningaloocentre.com.au/visitor-centre  Today my plan was to drive to the Lighthouse and south along the west coast of the peninsula to the end of the road. That’s what I did. I was not on a regular vacation schedule but wanted to see as much as possible of this part of the country (WA) and some highlights, as they were close to my path, also. To try and get onto an excursion, that might or might not, get me close to some whale sharks or other sea creatures was not on my list during this trip. Not much time had passed after I had left Exmouth when I saw many and quite high antennas ahead of me. It was the VLF Naval Communication Station Harold E. Holt. It allows communication with Ships and Submarines. It’s operated by Australia in behalf of Australia and the U.S. Went up the hill to the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse. At one point I entered into the Cape Range NP and stopped for a bit longer at the Milyering Visitor Centre https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/cape-range-national-park They even served good coffee. The stops I made after this included:

The Yardie Creek was the most interesting site on this drive. It was full of water. Unfortunately, the ships for the tours into the creek were only going in the morning hours. This could also have been related to the low- and high tide schedules. A hike path was sign posted but alone and in the heat, I did not wanted to walk it on my own.

The return trip was about 120km. Sufficient time passed to return to Exmouth to get a cold 6-pack and find some food. A bit early but for me today just right. Found an IGA for some water, opposite it was a bakery that had a veggie roll and a Beef Stroganoff pie to sell and the 6-pack I found at a bottle shop close by. The rest was quiet time, having a few beers, showering etc. ………

11.22. Tuesday – Exmouth to Karratha

Just a coffee in the van + 30 L of Diesel and off I went. 50 km or so later I turned left onto Burkett Rd . until I reached the Hwy. 1 towards Karratha. I stopped just twice. One time at the Nanutarra Roadhouse and the second at Fortescue River Roadhouse. The first time I had breakfast and got some more Diesel and the second time just a cup of coffee to stay awake. It was again the changing landscape that was of interest. From bushes there came trees and open views with scattered boulders & stones with barely any vegetation. It seemed I was going up in height and also flat-top mountains came into view. It was also obvious to me that there were mines close by. I saw again lots of cars that had the flags on them. The flags are there, to not been overlooked by the heavy trucks that moved the soil and minerals, when driving in the mines. Their drivers have only limited views. Only once was an operation so close to the main road that when on the bridge (one of the only once not going over a river), one had a chance of seeing a bit of it. There was an advertisement about “Robe River Pannawonica Rodeo” https://roberiverrodeo.com  It’s a Rio Tinto mining settlement with cinema and Pub etc. to serve the miners that stay here 2 weeks before flying out back home for a 2 weeks period having had 12h shifts daily. Here are some of the companies that mine here:

It was about 3:30pm when I finished the last of the approx. 550km I drove today. Even though I was  not near a city I was continuously connected to the Internet. Along the way every 100km or so there were high antennas. The power was provided in my opinion either by a generator or via solar panels and batteries. Don’t know the power requirements nor did I see large solar panel installations.  Check-in at the Discovery Parks Camp Site – Pilbara Karratha was an ease. Did not spend much time there but went on to understand the layout of the area. Stopped at a shopping center and went later to the North West Brewing Company http://www.northwestbrewingco.com.au to have a beer and a salad for dinner. Well and that was it for the day.

11.23 Wednesday – Karratha & Surrounding

The day started early but slow. Was up at 6am but only left the campground at 9:30am. When driving in search of the Hullabaloo Café www.facebook.com/hullabaloocafe one passes over a dam and salt deposit area. Art objects such as ball playing children etc. were set up. After an intense search due to a renovating and rebuilding process I found the Café and did not regret it. Good tasting Coffee and good sandwiches. From here I drove to Dampier Boat Ramp and was able to take some photos of the port and the ships waiting to be loaded. Later coming from the other side, I also saw the new Gas plants with the LNG Terminals as well as a large factory from the Yarra company www.yara.com . On the way to Ngajarli (Deep George) within the Murujuga National Park https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/murujuga-national-park I crossed a railway line and had to take some photos. The Deep George https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/site/ngajarli-deep-gorge is a site where stones with historic engravings and paintings from the local Aboriginals were found and secured. Displays explain the site in detail. On I went to the Hearson’s Cove. Again, a nice beach with only few people but public toilets and shady picknick tables and benches. On the way back to Dampier and the Hullabaloo Café I stopped to take a photo of the Red Dog Memorial https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Dog_(Pilbara) . A movie was made about the dog also. A trailer can be seen (in English) at https://youtu.be/GTExiWzvJlo While seated at the Café and drinking my ice cold XXXX beer, I decided to go the Cossack https://www.cossack.org.au an abandoned town with only 1 or 2 handful of buildings left. Aon my way I saw a large and long collection of rail cars. At Crossack I visited several buildings and had also a look inside the museum. No entry fee but one could donate by Card via Bluetooth😂 Unfortunately, the Café had already closed for the season. Therefore, as I was thirsty I had to drink water😒Went on a bit further for a better viewpoint of the bay, the waiting cargo ships and an historic. Not far was the point where the Afghan Camels and their handlers landed 120 years ago. An Asian & European cemetery was there also. On the way back to the camp site, several locomotives made up the now even longer collection of ore cars but still in the process of adding some further railcars. It was loooooong. I Googled and found that the longest freight train was from BHP. The longest train ever was 7.353 km long with 682 ore cars. This one did not break the record but ….. . Tomorrows camp site was at Tom Price with again some 420+ km to cover. If I would have known what I know today I might have driven voluntary +200km via another route. Close by was also a new Gas Plant. LNG Tankers were waiting in the bay.

11.24 Thursday – Karratha to Tom Price

Before I left, I watched 2 crested pigeon that seem to figure out who’s the best man for the bride. As they hit their beak onto the tarmac making a clicking noise, I just thought, what they would have done years ago, when no tarmac was available😂

Had, just for security, gotten 20L spare diesel and a fresh made sandwich just to be safe. Then I left and followed my Google Map instructions. What I know today was never mentioned at Google Map or at street signs. That is the fact as the receptions at today’s campground in Tom Price told me the fact that that road was a private road, and I should have asked Rio Tinto for permission respectively paid some money for the right to drive there. I researched and found out that no payment was involved. Why there was nothing signposted???? I covered all of the approx. 300km well. No issues with the car nor any need to get diesel.

By any means I had some nice motives of landscape and also on the trains and systems / Repair crews. I at one point tried to visit the Millstream Chichester National Park’s Visitor Center but due to me losing interest and the fact that I was on unsealed road, I turned around and went back to the main road. Would I just have known what was laying in front of me😁. After the first 100 km or so around Millstream, the road changed for good from a sealed to an un-sealed one. What I know now it was the RIO TINTO Railroad Access road or also called the Tom Price Railway Rd. . The first 1/3 of the approx. 270km was terrible. The car did not get into a stable condition at any speed. Later, where the road was better taken care of and the corrugation became more regular, it smoothened out and got better all together. What I did not know, nor did I see any sign or marker, was that it is not allowed to drive on the road without having a Permit from RIO TINTO.  As I checked in at the camp site I learned about the fact. I checked it later online and saw that the permit can be achieved by going through an online course. That’s what I did after the fact but passed now with 100% and the time stamp was Nov. 24th. No time stamp on the ticket to be downloaded. Here the Link if needed https://www.visitashburton.com.au/visitor-info/transport/rio-tinto-access-road.aspx Once checked-in at the Tom Price Tourist Park I went to get a new 6-Pack at a liquor store and some food at the Red Breeze Restaurant https://www.facebook.com/redbreeze/ that served Chinese/Asian food. I was the last guest at 2:15pm. Choose some ready packed Sushi rolls and a beer. Bothe were good to consume after that ride. Back at the camp site I set up the camper and started to write my notes. Earlier as I asked the woman at the reception wat the main attraction would be to visit here she mentioned going with the 4×4 up into the hills. Not with my camper😀 Wind came up and I felt a drop of temperature. Some cheese and 2 glasses of Sauvignon Blanc from NZ went with it. Watched a German online video and went to sleep. Just before that I heard a few rumbles and later heard some Raindrops hitting the car.

11.25. Friday – Tom Price to Newman

Tom Price is a huge mining area and is in close proximity to the Karijini-Nationalpark https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/karijini-national-park Its a Park where I would have liked to have more time available. Maybe I’ll have another chance in the coming years. At the edge of town an old ore truck was exhibited. About 50% smaller as the largest today. But still huge, compared to my little camper. All km today were on sealed roads. No unsealed Train Access Roads anymore. Choose a sidestep into the NP. First nothing did change but as I reached the end at the parking for the Dales George Outlook the downward view into the George was spectacular. Saw some people swimming in the Fern Pool and below the Fortescue Falls. I saw also a warning about poisonous snakes that were lately seen at these points. On the way back to the main road I stopped at the visitor center  https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/site/karijini-visitor-centre I thought it was good information provided. The situation of the Aboriginals was provided in a good way. The speeches of people were provided and the last 200 years or so explained. All together I feel that within the last 20 or so years a lot of the general understanding of the aboriginals and the Europeans has changed to the better. I purchased some souvenirs and once done left and 120km later I arrived a bit early in Newman. The difficulty for me is to judge the possible distance for the day and to locate a decent camp site that fits into the equation. Better shorter distances as too late arrival at the camp site. It also allows for a later departure and possible side steps are also easier to handle. At the 2pm arrival time no Café was open anymore. Had only my instant cappuccino from Aldi this morning. I checked in at the municipal Caravan Park. My second municipal. All not so professional as on the previous once but new and in nice condition. No trees or shade though. The towns existence is based on the Fortescue mining activities. Later a sandwich and a beer had to do. The Pub kitchen did start at 5:30pm and I would have been drunk by then. Therefore, went back to the Caravan Park and set up camp for the night. There was a small issue with the pin at the bathroom doors, but one functioned for each male and female and that was with only 4 campers on site. Just as the sun went down the wind came back and some rain. As yesterday. In the morning all will be dry again.

11.26. Saturday – Newman to Karalundi

The night was a bit unusual. Newman is a mining town and draws of course various people into town. My camp site was a bit outside, newly set up but not with a permanent Reception to fixed hours as usually. During the night there was some discussion going on and the camp site responsible for the night that was sleeping in a van here also, called the police. After that we had our peace. The morning started as usual with an instant cappuccino, got everything out of the way, had a shower and prepared for departure. The drive was kind of boring. The landscape and manly the plants changed from dense plants growing to barely anything growing at all. Also, due to flooding I assume, the right side of the street was just red with barely any plants while the left side was green and lush. Passed the Tropic of Capricorn https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropic_of_Capricorn . I passed again through quite some Mining Operations and those mainly from BHP. As I came closer to the goldmines, I even saw sign towards a Degussa mine site. Again, no sign of large Kangaroos beside skeletons on the side of the road. But 2 cows and a dead one, were critical. I think it was a group of 3. One was killed by an accident and the others kind of hung around not having a plan what to do next. Lucky for me, one did not walk towards the street and the other accelerated away from the road and out of harm’s way as I approached them with 80km/h. At just 2:15pm I arrived the Karalundi Caravan Park https://www.karalundipark.com.au/ . It’s part of larger Aboriginal community https://www.karalundi.wa.edu.au/ . The shop and reception was closed. It is also a Drug, Alcohol and Smoke Free Zone. But I as a visitor could have a beer inside my camper. But not allowed to leave the beer bottles or cans behind. That was ok with me. Found what I had to do, and all was fine. Had time to wash a machine full of linen and cloths which dried within 30 minutes. It was a very hot and a bit windy day. Started to read again as there was no internet available just phone services. That made me call my sister in Sydney and we spoke for quite a while, while my laundry was in the washing machine. For dinner, it was some hummus and bread as well as 3 beers. I do hope for a good night’s sleep tonight. It is not raining but the air feels at the end of the day, a bit cooler than a while ago.

11.27. Sunday – Karalundi to Mount Magnet

Night was good and yes it had cooled down as much that I had to cover myself up in the early morning. I had been the only occupant on the car park. Had my thoughts about that, but all was good at the end. Woke up at 7am. The trucks and traffic were not high and did not disturb my night. After my first cp of coffee, I packed up and started driving. Only landscapes and trucks to talk about. Some 30km before Cue I stopped to see Lake Anneen https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Anneen  He had a nice rose color this time of the year.  Only after I reached Cue, I could enjoy the historic houses (some boarded up) left standing and turned right to visit the Waga Rock https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walga_Rock . 47km all on unsealed surface. 100-110km/h was no problem. Only in the curves, where gravel was around one had to be careful. Unfortunately, the access was closed and I had to turn around and go back to Cue https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/cue-wa . Stopped at the center, took my photos and went on to the gas station. 35L Diesel, a paper, Cappuccino and a Banana bread later, I went on towards the Mt. Magnet Caravan Park. Saw overall today 3 huge, oversized transports again, supported by the Police. Always had to go into the gravel. As I approached the left turn towards the Granites https://mtmagnet.wa.gov.au/the-granites A Aboriginal schematic figure cut out of metal was standing on top of one for the first granite formations after one turns off the Hyw. Just 3km earlier I had seen information about a tourist drive. I went back there and had a very nice off site experience in between the still active mines which one again was unable to see in detail. Once arriving in Mt. Magnet I went to the camp site, registered and paid my 30$ dues. Went on to the Gas station filled the tank and went back to my final position. Had a beer and grilled Baramundi at the Commercial Club Hotel www.commercialclubhotel.com.au Back at the camper I wrote ahain my notes and hoped I could sleep as good as last night bat daupt it as the highway was just a mere 20m away. The temperature had gone down some what but still was quite intense.

11.28. Monday –Mount Magnet to Leonora

Having fallen a sleep at 21:30 I felt quite well rested when I was woken up with the first car driving by on the Hwy at 04:35. I did not hang around too long and was done and packed at 7am. A real Cappuccino and a Ham and Cheese Croissant were purchased at the Gas station and off I went at 07:15. Well before Cue I had my 2 highlights of the day. Avoided the closer interaction with 2 cows and believe it or not, had a stretch of a straight road for 34 km. To keep me active I always (when I remembered) guessed the straight distance of a stretch of road in front of me. Often something else caught my attention and I forgot to check the length of the straight part all together. And I was ready just in time for this one. Started with 8-10km but as the road went up and down, I readjusted. At the end, it was a stretch of straight road that was 34km long. Just a bit east of Cue I turned off to the right and followed the Tourist drive to the site of the former Brewery (1907) https://www.sandstone.wa.gov.au/sandstone-brewery.aspx and the London Bridge https://www.sandstone.wa.gov.au/london-bridge.aspx . Nice landscape and views. Saw of what’s left of the underground beer storage. Went back to Sandstone but it was dead. The only possible Coffee or food source was the Sandstone National Hotel. It was for sale but open for dinner. I saw a larger advertising sign right at the entrance of the village. Did not understand the meaning of the word Skimpy at their billboard at the entrance of town. Here now, on a flyer at the entrance door to the closed pub, I found the answer 😉. On I went, straight through – just stopping for photos once before Leinster. Had not seen many positive reviews of its restaurants and food shops and as I entered the BHP set up and saw the site, I also thought there can only be better places ahead of me. If not, I stop and open my fridge. The road changed into a kind of emergency air strip for a good length. Lucky me no emergency at this time. The clouds changed a bit, and I wondered if we would get some rain, fortunately not. At 1:45pm I arrived at Leonora just in time to still get a beer and a Burger. As told by phone yesterday I entered the camp site, choose a site and waited until 3pm at which the reception was opened, and I could pay my dues for the night. Will have a steak at the pub tonight. Seems to be the only choice of food besides another burger.

If you ever come to this part of the world, there are nice 4×4 self-drive tours available https://www.australiasgoldenoutback.com/business/attractions/leonora-loop-trail

11.29. Tuesday – Leonora to Norseman

It’s all a huge mining area and the large nights because people get up early where kind of short or just got up early as I could not fall asleep again. So tonight. At 4:30am the first cars left the camp site. I guess it’s mostly men that live here with family and don’t want to life in the container sites which the mining companies provide. The BP gas pumps where not working. Therefore, Ampol next door did get all the business. Had to wait a bit in line. No proper coffee anywhere close, so just a sandwich it was. I should not have purchased it. It was spicy and greasy. No wonder many of those truck drivers had all huge sized belly. Just out of town I took a right turn to the old mining town of Gwalia https://www.gwalia.org.au/ Right there was a small display of historic mining and street gating machinery. Naturally at this early time of the day the nearby museum was not open, but I could take a few photos of the Gold Mine https://stbarbara.com.au/our-operations/our-leonora-operations and the village as such. Distance today a bit more than usually, as the camp sites were further apart. 421km officially but add 100km for my side step from Menzies to the Lake Ballard and its sculptures “Inside Australia” https://www.westernaustralia.com/de/Attraction/Lake_Ballard/59631f9e67607d3b3721195f  Unfortunately the sculptures are that far off the “land” that without a Tele going beyond a zoom on the cell phone would make them visible clearly https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=lake+Ballard&form=HDRSC2&first=1 . Menzies https://www.menzies.wa.gov.au/ itself is one of the just barely alive old mining towns. There was also a an exhibit of historic machine set up under a sun roof. Also historic information on the town. I guess its income form mining operations and its support companies keep them going. However the sheer size of shire of Menzies with 124.635km² is impressive. As stated on one of the information displays, it’s larger than the territory of Tasmania (68,401 km²). When I was there first, all was kind of boarded up. Only when returning 1,5h later, the corner coffee shop had opened and so aparently, as the lady at the coffee shop told me, the kitchen and general store at the other side of the main street. Of what I saw from the distance I opted to stay with the coffee shop. “Order through the window” a sign said. That’s what I did. Cappuccino as always and a grilled ham, cheese and tomato sandwich and I was informed that it came originally frozen and would not be fresh. I assumed the lady that took the order was the owner. She must have used the weight of the gold and jewels on her fingers, for weightlifting. I assumed the coffee shop was her hobby or, a long dream come true. The profits from the coffee shop would not have paid for these jewelry items. I choose one of the simple wooden designed tables and chairs in the shade and consumed the sandwich while looking at the few houses left over from the better times. I took the coffee with me as I roomed the exhibits and information provided downtown. Next brief stop was Kalgoorlie. Downtown still nice to look at. Old colonial buildings are in good shape. The Super Pit Lookout still existed. Daily tour access to the mine is as still offered https://www.kalgoorlietours.com.au/tours/super-pit-tour-2-5-hours . The HANNANS NORTH TOURIST MINE http://www.hannansnorth.com.au/ also available to see mining details close up. Interesting sites on the way. With 28km the second longest stretch of straight road for me. Had in mind to go and have a view from the Burra Rock but I ran out of time. Again, looked at changing landscapes and plants. From bushes, desserts to trees and back. In Kalgoorlie I just  drove through the center took some video, got gas and an ice cream and went on to the KCGM Super Pit Lookout  http://www.superpit.com.au/community/lookout/ I checked again on the internet and prices for these huge XXXL spare tires for the Earth Movers. It’s approx. AUS$ 60.000. From here a non-stop drive to Norseman and my camp site for the night the Acclaim Gateway Tourist Park – Norseman http://www.acclaimparks.com.au/ Not one of the best camp sites I stayed on during the trip but nothing to complain in detail. Arrived, had an immediate shower and washed my hair, had them sun and wind dried and off I went to the Pub. Had Shrimps in a garlic sauce, where the garlic was missing, with rice and a salad and one pint of beer. Took a few photos at night and went back searching for a camp site tomorrow which was a problem. I must call first thing in the morning. The bigger and better places were already booked.

Had been in the past at Hyden and seen the wave rock. For this trip I had other plans. But looking at the wave rock I can recommend. A nice trail to follow is the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail https://www.dundas.wa.gov.au/granite-and-woodlands-discovery-trail.aspx

https://www.australiasgoldenoutback.com/destination/norseman-nullarbor Every city or town did have some sort of an Art Object that included or represented for what the place was known for. Here it was a statue of the horse “Norseman” and a Camal roundabout. https://www.westernaustralia.com/en/places/Norseman/56b266bbaeeeaaf773cf959a

11.30. Wednesday – Norseman to Esperance

First, I wrote my notes from yesterday. I was tiered then and only a short distance to drive today. It was a transition not only from the Woodlands to the coast but also from the Gold mining to the farming/crops. Only about 210km and me not having any idea of a sightseeing stop in between. I was on Hwy. 1 all the time. In Norseman I took a few more photos especially of the horse statue https://norsemangreatwesternmotel.com.au/attractions and the camel roundabout. Passing through Dundas I saw huge grain operations. Large silos and large kind of sheds to secure the thousands of tons of grain from any weather and hold them until loaded up into the trains. The grain & mining Railway system had started already in Menzies, and it became obvious as the volume of road trains was much lower. But here, at Dundas and also at Salmon Gums, where I stopped for lunch (a salad) again more trucks were on the road that drove into the other direction – towards the coast and the Harbour of Esperance https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Esperance,_Western_Australia It’s one of the larger grain shipping points in Australia. Over the entire length of the drive, I passed lakes at various stages. Some dried up and showing crystallized salt covers others were really covered in water, but just barely. By now it also had started to rain a bit harder. I went straight to the Pink Lake Tourist Park camp site, signed in, had a nap and left again to go to the Tourist Information before their closure at 5pm. By now the rain had stopped but it was still cooler here and the sky was cloudy. From there I passed by the Lucky Bay Brewing Company https://www.luckybaybrewing.com.au and went on to the wide Wylie Bay. It was possible to drive along the shore with a 4×4 but I refused to do so with my rented camper. Went back to the center, took photos along the Bay and towards the Harbour. There at the 33 Degrees Pub I stopped for a pint and some chicken wings for dinner. Tomorrow, I want to have some beer and food at the Lucky Bay Brewing Company.

12.01. Thursday – Esperance

Woke up at 3am and had a hard time falling asleep again. Finally did and woke up at 8am. A bit late but no distance driving today, therefore it was ok. Had a coffee and a Croissant at the Bistro Louis https://www.facebook.com/BistroLouisEsperance Later I drove a 40km recommended self-drive course and followed the map provided by the Tourist Office. Lots of beaches and bays with interesting viewpoints. Came by another pink lake that apparently is no longer pink. Changes in the salt content and evaporation with not enough flowing fresh water etc …… caused it, to not be pink anymore. Went to see a copy of Stonehenge https://esperancestonehenge.com.au/ , but complete as it most likely was at one time. It was made of solid granite blocks and adjusted to the situation of longest and shortest day here at Esperance. On the way back to the town Center I stopped at the Lucky Bay Brewing Company https://www.luckybaybrewing.com.au for lunch. Order for a paella and 2 small beer was taken by a German girl on a work visa. Cooks were from Chile and the Canary Islands (Paella cooked by Kamals Quarter Catering www.instagram.com/kamalspaellas ). On I went to the Center, walked the Jetty, and made a few additional photos, visited the Museum of Esperance https://www.esperance.wa.gov.au/esperance-museum  and went back to the camp site. Had dinner at the camper. Had to work a bit harder to reduce my food stock as I slowly approached the end of my 4-week camper trip.

12.02. Friday – Esperance to Albany

Over the last days my left side of my back hurt. Nothing new to me. I organized through my sister in Sydney to have 2 scheduled visits at a Physiotherapist once there. Last night I had the idea to not wait until I am in Sydney to get checked but start in Albany at a Chiropractor. Unfortunately, the one I had called this morning had no appointment available. He recommended one in Esperance which I called and yes, he had time at 11am. He could help and at 11:30 I left Esperance for Albany. It took me 6h for the 480km including a stop for a coffee and a meat pie as well as one to get some Diesel. Having passed Jerramungup https://www.jerramungup.wa.gov.au I saw a The Sterling Range NP https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/stirling-range-national-park on the right. It was impressive how it stood suddenly there in an otherwise flat land. Might come back one time to explore the region a bit more in detail. At 17:30 I was at the reception of the BIG4 Emu Point Holiday Park. Found my spot and to my surprise there was a Swiss couple with the same camper also from Apollo. They had started at about the same time but were in Australia for 3 months. The trip will end in Sydney. I washed but had not enough $ for the dryer. Hung my items late without a chance to have them dried before going to bed. I will take the important and Apollo items that I rented inside and leave the other items to finally dry in the morning sun. My dinner to reduce my food items was at the Camper again with a few large sips of white wine.  

12.03. Saturday – Albany & Surroundings

I slept in and left late. Had also to wait until the washed items were dry. On my way to the Frenchman Bay in the Torndirrup NP & Peninsular https://www.rainbowcoast.com.au/areas/albany/torndirrupnationalpark I stopped at the Center of Albany and had a coffee and a light lunch. The coastline is spectacular but before I went to the highlights I stopped at the Historic Whale Station. I stayed there a good 2 hours after I paid the 35$ entry fee. They provided good information. If the weather would have been nicer, I would later also have had a better view from Stony Hill. One could just imagen it. The following views of the Gap and the Natural Bridge, which are next to each other, were spectacular. There was a sky walk over the Gap. Impressive. Driving back towards the city, I came by the replica of the Brig Amity https://visit.museum.wa.gov.au/greatsouthern/brig-amity as well as large grain silos and also again as yesterday large handling sites for fertilizer. Ships were loaded and others waiting in the bay. Earlier I came by a realtor’s office. Saw a in general, a nice-looking house.Its price was AU$ 500.000 – would be a bargain in Sydney! Had dinner at the Hybla Tavern http://www.hybla.com.au/ . A nice place, for mainly the young and beautiful and the once thinking they still were, with good looking and tasting food items.

12.04. Sunday – Albany & Surroundings

Not much to do therefore I got out of bed late, had a coffee, talked with my sister and went to the reception where there was a coffee trailer  https://www.instagram.com/p/CX8LOvUF2Lm/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= . Ordered a Cappuccino and ham, cheese and tomato toasties. Looked again at my possible activities and got the car ready to roll. The goal was the Porongurup-Nationalpark http://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/porongurup On the way I saw a sign for a Winery and took that direction just out of interest. Looked small but just next to it was a Café / Restaurant called Handasyde’s https://handasydestrawberries.com.au/ I liked what I saw and want to come back after my next activity was done. Parking for it was at the bottom of a hill so I was aware that I had to walk upwards and that for about 250-300m in altitude. The length of the uphill path was as I figured out later around 2,5 to 3km.  Good that I did not know that when I started. Not that it was painful or beyond my capabilities, just a mental thing. The path was easy to follow and kept in good condition. As expected, there was a restroom close to the parking. In Germany I would have to water a tree😒 I don’t know why we do not get it. Too much monkey or neandertal DNA still left?? I heard many birds’ voices but always when I wanted to catch their music with the phone recorder they seemed to know what I had in mind and kept quiet. On the way up near the top already some huge boulders were placed and kind of balanced. Later, at the top, one stood in front of those very large boulders. A sign directed one to either the Karri Lookout or the Granite Skywalk. I choose the later. Crawled upwards between the boulders. Also grabbed handles which were placed in the boulder to ease the passage. Came to the first platform, took some photos and once other visitors were came down, went up the ladder and enjoyed the views. Unfortunately, the weather was not on in favor good views and photos. A all of us up here had limited visibility. Shot my photos and videos and hoped for the best. Once down I went to the other platform which was not that exciting and started my walk back down. Met 4 groups of marine cadets. What I know now is that the first group (just 4men) tried to be as fast as possible. The others (1 men, 1 mixed and the last 1 female group) had the challenge of being faster and catch the leading man. Forgot to ask who had to pay the beer. Once down and back at the car, going back passing the Castle Rock & Wignalls wineries https://castlerockestate.com.au/  http://www.wignallswines.com.au/ as well as the Gillman Grove (Genovese Olive Co ) olive orchard. I remembered the Handasyde’s Café I saw earlier and had a small and light lunch as well as a coffee and cake. Back at the camp site it was washing day (bed linen etc.) had a beer out of the fridge in between, walked the beach while the goods were in the dryer and finally settled in the camper to finish a few things and also call Willy.

12.05. Monday – Albany to Margaret River

Took my time to get going. Another cold and cloudy day. On and off it was also drizzling. Had only 1,5h to drive to the Valley of the Giants. From there only 30 minutes to the booked Coalmine Beach Holiday Park at Walpole. By 11:30 I reached my first destination and started to walk after paying the entrance fee. It was a nice path up to the trees. Similar as my sister and I walked it at the Alsace just longer and higher. Once back at the ground I walked the 2nd trail. Took over 1:30h and once back at the van I decided to cancel the next camp site and book another night at the Margret River Tourist Park https://summerstar.com.au/caravan-parks/margaret-river  . That’s what I did. The rest was driving hard but had one stop in Denmark. A nice little place. Around it all kind of enterprises such as Brewery, Winery, Distillery, Farms for Berries, Sheep. Llamas, Cattle and also the village itself with a vibrant Art circle. I also remember having passed Manjimup (first Police control-for alcohol) in the middle of the day. But here also quite some business activity going on. Also, in Nannup. That area was again also farmland. Saw larger Avocado farms and also lots of cherry trees. In Manjimup there is also a cherry festival  https://www.cherryfestival.com.au Saw at both towns large operations from Parkside Timber www.parksidetimber.com.au . The rest of the drive went again through forested areas. As I approached Margret River the landscape changed to larger patches of cattle land and vineyards while on the Rosa Brook Rd. Then I saw them – the Kangaroos. The only other time was 3 weeks ago up in the North but saw it just for a split second. Here they were in packs. Feeding / grazing. Heads down, I just saw the other end of them stick out of the gras. But only if I was passing them at higher speed. Once I turned around, to come back for the photo shoot the head went up and they started to flee. That happened twice but all in all I saw 4 groups with at least 50 or so. It took the first flock for me to understand that those brown animals were no cattle. Too far to turn around and only as I saw the second group, I was able to get it all together quick enough. After that excitement I arrived at 5pm at the camp site. Got out right away again and into town for a beer and a BBQ brisket burger. It was a long day and quite some faster than allowed driving. I was not in the mood to do anything other then just hang around complete my status and go to sleep.

12.06. Tuesday – Margaret River & Surrounding

Left late and started driving towards Cape Leeuwin and the Lighthouse https://www.margaretriver.com/things-to-do/attractions/lighthouses/cape-leeuwin-lighthouse   using the Touristic Rt 250. The day before it came to me that I might have been here before. I checked it on my old travel notes and could confirm that fact. Nothing had changed the past 7 years 😂 On the way back I stopped at the  historic “Water Wheel” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Leeuwin_water_wheel and took a different route. Stopped at Flinders Bay where I was able to see wild Pelican that, for a change, were not fed. Went on and stopped at the Jewel Cave https://www.margaretriver.com/things-to-do/attractions/caves/jewel-cave-augusta/ . Only guided tours available and I did not want to spend the time to wait for the next one. On I went to the Mammoth Cave https://www.margaretriverattractions.com/caves/mammoth-cave/ . It was interesting but as it was a stalactite cave, not generally new to me. Could walk it with a head set on my own pace. From there on back to Margret River and a dinner at the Elkamo https://elkamo.com.au (seared Scallops and a grilled Barramundi) From there to the camp site. Too tired to do something else anymore. Just watching some German TV videos and finally fell asleep.

12.07. Wednesday – Margaret River & Surrounding

Today I went North towards Yallingup just to remember when I saw the bay and the houses built up the hill, that I was there years ago too. But what was new to me was, this section of the Touristic Route 250. Seldon had I seen so many Wineries on a stretch of road. There are more than 120 in the Margaret River region, but on that stretch of rod and next to it must be at least 50+ of them. On the way up I saw the Café Cape Lavender http://www.lavenderonline.com.au/ It was now 10am and I had my breakfast there. An Egg & Ham Scone and a Cappuccino. I ate it outside. After 4 days of clouds, wind, and humidity with down to 10°C at night, the first day with sun and blue sky. As I write this however the wind picks up and I am afraid tomorrow it will be cloudy again. Had my car washed and cleaned inside to avoid 220AUS$ cost for cleaning. Before going to the campground, I had a small salad in a shopping mall. Further on the way I passed a sign that pointed to the Yallingup Maze. A family oriented fun zone https://yallingupmaze.com.au/ Back at the campground, I started the cleaning of the drivers cabin and the small things around the outside of the camper. I used some wipes that I had purchased earlier at the shopping mall. Because I could not consume it in the time left, I gave a 6-pack of beer and some water to a couple at the campground. Did my last laundry and washed my hair. An emergency instant soup was left as well as some cheese and a pack of ham. That became my dinner. The rest of the leftovers and mainly chemicals etc. I will drop off at the Rental car company when dropping off the camper tomorrow around lunch time.

12.08. Thursday – Margaret River to Perth

Woke up and realized I had no coffee anymore. Water it was instead. Started to pack my suitcase to get things out of the way as I also had to clean the inside of the car. After 2,5h I was ready and left the campground at 10:15. By 1:15pm I was parked in front of the hotel, got my luggage out of the car and into the luggage hold area of the Hotel Holiday Inn Perth City Centre. As I drove towards the new Apollo location, I took the wrong term and had to make a round until the other entrance to the Hwy. By doing so I came by a nice-looking Bistro, and I stopped for a small salad with some chicken. Once at the rental location, after I had filled up the diesel, I had a bit of a chat with the women, which was the same that gave me the car. She then went outside checked the fuel gauge and came back. Don’t know if I would have had to do the detailing🤷‍♀️Maybe just the outside wash would have done it too. I cleaned the camper floor 10 day ago and was shocked how dirty it was. I had all days been sweeping it but that red colored soil from the outback was still there. Once I was done today, the red was taken care off by my cleaning wipes. I returned to the city via train as the station was only a 10-minute walk away. Rested a bit but did not sleep. Had a beer and Nachos as a mini version and at another shop 2 Pastéis de Nata. Next was the hotel.

12.09. Friday – Perth

Had 2 cups of Nespresso at the room. By 10:30am I was on my way to walk to the Kings Park https://www.bgpa.wa.gov.au/kings-park/visit/help-you/things-to-do the Botanical Garden and the war memorial. Had a cup of coffee and some salad at the Botanical Café http://www.botanicalcafe.com.au/ Some other 200 people had the same idee. I was lucky and was at the front of the line. Saw in the Gallery next dor some nice WA Souvenirs but was afraid to have issues with my suitcase. One artist was Anne Sorensen https://annesorensen.com.au/printed-artwork/ The Botanical Garden was nice. I saw all the flowers and blooming bushes together as I never did in reality while crossing WA. Also the views towards Perth and the rivers was exceptional. Saw a train which I believe was the one to Fremantle. I read that it would be shut down from Friday to Sunday. After I found my way back and down via the Jacobs Ladder https://www.perthwalkabout.com/Great-Outdoors/jacobs-ladder-at-kings-park.html I walked to the train station just to learn that it’s running until tonight. I got a ticket and boarded the next one towards Fremantle. Walked the center, found the apartment Akiko and I shared 7 years ago, had a coffee and a Vanilla cream Cannoli at Gino’s http://www.ginoscafe.com.au/ , tried to walk it of again and ended up back at the train towards Perth. There, a visit at the Hotel Restaurant and 2 beers and some wings later I was back at the room. Want to go to bed early. Must get up at 03:15. Taxi will pick me up at 4am sharp.needed aparently also a lift to the airport. We sheared mine. Had a coffee before boarding and at the end the procedure the flight left at 06:13. The Qantas 737 landed, after a quiet flight, 1/2h early. As the plane descended, we all, on the right side of the plane, had nice views over Sydney. 35 minutes after the landing the luggage was on the belt and L&H waiting outside with the car to pick me and my luggage up. The rest of the day was calm and quiet. We sat at the terrace had drinks and a bite and dinner 5h later inside. This terminates my travel notes abouts for this part of my trip. It was nice to see parts of the US I enjoyed in the past, long-time friends in the US & Brisbane and new sites with positive and memorable impressions. My trip passing through Western Australian was the highlight. Just a bit over 10.000km in 4 weeks with views and experiences I am grateful to have had the chance to see and experience them. I just hope that the next generation will still have the opportunity to experience the same as I. What I learned when returning the Camper was that Apollo, Maui, Britz, Mighty, Road Bear, Kea Campers, United Vehicle Rentals, are all in one Group called THL or Tourism Holdings Limited

My Toyota 4×4 Apollo Adventure Camper based on the HiLux Diesel, performed like a champ! Would buy one any time, if living in a country like Australia.

Google Map was sufficient to provide me the information needed to find Campgrounds,  Restaurants and of course directions. The printed material I took I purchased I donated at the special “not needed any more” box at the camper drop off site. The printed maps though, I did not want to miss and took them back home with me for hopefully future trips in the region.

Surprisingly I learned that the Southwest corner of Australia is always a bit cooler than the rest of the nation. Early December at night a warmer sleep wear was appreciated.

http://mobilemarshies.blogspot.com/ is a website to get Australian Camping travel ideas.

Campground Parks and Organizations:

BIG4 https://www.big4.com.au

RAC. https://parksandresorts.rac.com.au/locations/

Summerstar  https://summerstar.com.au

Discovery Parks www.discoveryparks.com.au & Tasman Holiday Parks www.tasmanholidayparks.com  also have ensuites.

Camino Norte / … de la Costa

  1. Section 13.05.2022 – 24.05. 2022 Hondarribia to Santander

Different to my past plans for a Camino hike, this time I wanted to take more time to reflect on things, see and visit sites I would normally not take the time to do that while hiking. I also did not necessarily wanted to walk all 100% of the way if the weather was not good or I felt that my physical condition not up to the challenge. This time I had no training walks and by looking back, yes I got punished for it. I had all the gear with me if it would not have worked out but as before I tried to get my own room and bath for the overnight stays.

13.05 Friday – Flight Madrid to San Sebastian

Sunny in Madrid, Clouds over San Sebastian and Hondarribia. Met Paul from San Francisco just outside the Airport close to Hondarribia. I had checked and as I did not find a path along the main road to Hondarribia I turned around as Paul came towards me. Backpack and wearing hiking cloths. It did not take long to realize we had the common goal to get into the center of Hondarribia. We walked along a small local road along the airfield and on regular streets toward the center. There, we split and said good bye. He had chosen a different route to mine tomorrow morning. Him, being in better physical shape, having less weight on his shoulders than I, made it unlikely that we would meet again. He had already hiked the main Camino Frances as well as the Camino Portuguese and would certainly not get lost on this one either. 3 Weeks he had for the whole trip to Santiago. Meaning, for quite some large distances, he would have to take a bus or train. Usually, it’s an approx. 40 days hike.  

By the time I checked in, it was time for lunch. Had 3 pintxos at Senra as Gran Sol was more than full. Visited Gran Sol again after taking a break at the hotel https://www.bargransol.com / Great food as usually and I also found out that they were now in Tokyo. Closed due to COVID-19 now open again. As I enjoy the pintxos here very much, I never had a proper meal in Hondarribia yet. That will have to change the next time I am here.

After some sort of life reflection for 45 minutes or so at the shore by myself, I went back to the room for the night. Tomorrow at 8am I will be downstairs for breakfast.

14.05 Saturday – Hondarribia to San Sebastian

The day started well. Slept until 8am which was supposably my breakfast time. But what the heck 😂 I was on a vacation. By 9 I left the hotel and went straight to the uphill escalator that I had seen from my window earlier. Apparently, those were 3 in total (behind each other). Nice for the people living up at the higher elevated locations. Why is something like this not considered in Stuttgart??

I followed my Komoot map until I reached the actual Camino trail (I had downloaded all required gpx files to my phone) It took about 4h before I stopped (not sit) for a bite and drink. Had 0,75L water on me but should have been more. At a junction not far after Hondarribia I saw the incline, it felt not right, to go up there the first day on the hike. However, I think my route provided the most exiting views back towards the sea, Hondarribia and the Pyrenees.

At a junction I met with a French fellow from Brittany, with an excellent British accent, but told him not much later to go on without me. He was on his 54th day on the Camino (from home) and much better on foot than I on my first day.

When at the bottom of the hill, at Pasai https://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/towns/pasaia/aa30-12375/en after at least a 3km steep down hill concrete path, I just sat down at the first free chair/table I saw. I was done 😟 After walking for 6h continuously, it just felt right. Also, the 2 beers I consumed.

The little river was crossed via a personal ferry. Not much later I passed a bus station and found out that 10 minutes later a bus to San Sebastian would stop. 20 minutes later I checked into my 8m2 room (€112,5 w/o breakfast) at Pension Santa Clara at the historic center of San Sebastian. After a shower and a 2h rest I joined the crowds. I walked towards the end of the La Concha Beach above the harbor and typed these notes and had a beer. The noise of the Koruko Andre Mariaren Basilika bells were intensive there Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus – Wikipedia After having dropped off my jar at  Akerbeltz https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bar-AkerBeltz/200455153313964 I went to Txakolina https://txakolinadonostia.com/es and eat 3 pintxos. Not worthwhile mentioning but I was hungry and had space left. The pintxos served at Hondarribia at Gran Sol were by far better. However, as I found out as I was looking for closer for the day, that is not true about the cheesecakes. The one from La Viña is the BEST – NY Times stated it as the Flavor of the Yeat: Basque Burnt Cheesecake https://lavinarestaurante.com/en/tarta-de-queso-la-vina-sabor-del-ano-segun-el-new-york-times/

15.05 Sunday – San Sebastian to Getaria

After dropping off the room and main door key, I purchased 1,5L water to refuel my bottles. A search for a coffee and something to eat followed. I followed a large crowed of runners and supporters. Found a cafe which was next to the staging area for the marathon. Must have been some kind of company thing. Lots of the runners’ shirts showed well known company names. As I walked along the beach, I saw an artist creating a picture in the sand. See images at islar13@intagram. Walked around the concha in an unsuccessful search for an open shop, that would sell me sun cream. Tons at home but non with me. Went up with the funicular, purchased 2 small bocadillos with cheese and ham for the way. Had forgotten to get them earlier. I walked for about 16km up and down hill. 60% on tarred paths. My soles were on fire. At the end the path went downward. A drop of 300m over 4km. The longest/worst I ever had to do. That’s where I picked up a blister on my right little toe. Did not have any restaurant or such to sit down or get a decent drink all the way today. I heard thunder a few times. Due to the trees and landscape, I just saw just saw blue sky. Only as the forest and the landscape provided better views towards the west and south, I saw the first restaurant in the far and also the dark clouds coming towards me. Nothing could stop me now any more to get the fastest to that restaurant (Asador St. Martín Erretegia www.asadorsanmartin.com). Found a seat outside but well below an overhanging roof and ordered 2 beers. The second to be served 5 minutes after the first. Timing was perfect 😉 As I just about finished my first beer, it started to rain. Big drops of a summer rain. Strong winds brought chilly temperatures compared to the 35C we had all day. I did not feel strong enough to walk the ultimate 8km especially in the rain. Got a taxi which dropped me off at Hotel Itxas Gainin Getaria http://www.hotelitxasgain.co. After some recovery time, I opted for some walk down to the Harbour. Realized that we were here during my 60th birthday. I passed through the tunnel next to the church and saw the Restaurant Asador Mayflower at the right. Had some local Txakoli at a bar at the waterfront, walked for a while until I came to the Restaurant  Balleari  https://restaurante-balearri.negocio.site/?utm_source=restaurantguru&utm_medium=referral  it’s specialty was grilled fish over open fire. This was true to most of the restaurant in the Harbour area. It was nice and the only food I had before returning the hotel. As I walked back, I did a little detour. Ran in a Bar named Ketarri. Had a last glass of Txakoli to finish the day. By now it was around 10pm and I was really tired. Lots of young people were here all with a glass of something in their hands.

16.05 Monday – Getaria

Decided the day before to stay a second night. The Hotel as the village was small but nice with a nice Terrace, where I every late afternoon/evening, had sort of a beer or two, as an very early downer😁. The fridge was on a self- service basis. 2 different style beers were always available with different potato chips to go with them. Did not have breakfast there. Tried to stay with my 16h/8h eating rhythm. Over the day I walked the little city. Learned more about the Spanish open air escalators. Booked a massage for the afternoon and visited the MAISOR shop that specialized on canned anchovies, sardines, tuna, ….  https://maisor.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/catalogo-MAISOR-fr-03.jpg Antonio a year ago, had sent me a huge box of such items from this shop. Don’t know if I will return in July, as I also will visit Santoña. A place that is more famous about canned fish items than Getaria. The once I received as a present from Antonio were very good. Don’t know what they could make better🤷‍♂️ For an early 6pm dinner I had made a reservation at the Restaurant Mayflower. The main item was the BBQed fish again. Together with a salad and 2 glasses of Txakoli I paid €48. I was lucky that they had a smaller fish that was not big enough for 2. Before going back to the hotel, I stopped again at Ketarri for a last drink. Lucky for me I arrived just before a minute or so, the sun was gone.

17.05 Tuesday – Getaria to Deba

Took a bus to Zumaia. Got out of the bus before it arrived at the center to get a better view into the Harbour. It’s a little sea village with some fishing but also some ship building/repair activity. A Edda Brint was worked on at the time at Astilleros Balenciaga Shipyard as I know today https://eddawind.com/naming-ceremony-for-service-operation-vessel-edda-brint/ . After passing through the little village, the path went up hill and into the country side. A nice walk during another hot day. Had 2L of water with me. I wondered often and not just today why no one had a refreshing stand or wending machine next to the path. I passed often houses right on the Camino Norte with electricity. They could have made some money that way. As I came down hill one time there it was, a Food Van with some umbrellas, benches, and tables. It was a parking spot for weekend hikers as I judged it. There was a public rest room with also a picnic area under some large trees too. I had a sandwich and a drink, rested a bit, and walked on. Why there was not more often a place like that along the Camino Norte stages??? If I would not be that busy travelling, I might do it😨 Towards the end of the stage it went steep downhill. I had booked a room earlier and had made a mistake – again. Not corrected it via booking, but just called the hotel. By going through Booking, I would have had to pay the room in full and get a new one. It happened twice in a row. The issue was that today there would not have been a room available at Pension Zumardi https://pensionzumardi.com/en . However, from the online booking lists, I knew that they had a larger apartment available also. We agreed that I could use it and to a lower cost, as I was occupying it by myself. A woman on a bike met and guided me to the apartment that was in a new building development off the city center on a hill on the Mogel Kalea street. Had to go down to the valley (more about that below) buy some ham, cheese, crackers, water and a bottle of Txakoli for the evening. As I searched the shops, I passed the leather workshop of Martin Sukia. Specialized on shoes for the traditional dances but also other leather good and repairs. My phone leather case that I am wearing on my belt was broken and I dropped it off for a over night repair, which he offered to me.

Now to Deba itself. Also a small sea village. With about 5.500 regular inhabitants. Flooded by vacationers in the summer. It’s squeezed into a valley with steep flanks. As I saw already open-air escalators in Hondarribia and Getaria, it was absolutely new to me that there would anyone set an elevator into the valley about 30-40m high with a horizontal walkway at its exits at the middle and at the top for the passengers to walk or roll off in wheelchairs etc. at those elevated street levels towards their homes. The one escalator I saw was not functioning. This for quite some time. The moss on its metal segments were the proof.

18.05 Wednesday – Deba to Markina-Xemein

Had organized the night before, that at 9 am I would be at the shop of Martin Sukias, Leather Shop https://www.instagram.com/martin_sukia/?hl=de . He had my phone case repaired and after a brief discussion we agreed that he also would make a new one. He did not accept a down payment. But I am sure he’ll be working on it. Walked toward the station. Had in mind to cut the 24km about 5km short. Train did not work out but a Taxi again did the job. The walk today was interesting. Open paths changed to forest trails and totally open pasture like landscapes. Highest elevation was at approx. 490m. I had again 2L water on me and all was needed. As I approached the interesting church at the edge of Markina I drank my last water. After the check-in at Hotel Antsotegi http://www.antsotegi.com , an old mill, converted in 2005. A nice place. Home cooking was good. and the kitchen run by the owner’s mother. He himself waited on around 12 tables plus worked at the bar.

19.05 Thursday – Markina-Xemein to Mundaka

The night passed fast. Breakfast was included. Taking a sandwich and a banana with me for the walk. I still felt not strong enough to walk the hilly section with 24+ km. Therefore, for the first uphill section I ordered a taxi. The Taxi 648 255271 came as agreed at 09:15 to bring me the 6km uphill to the Monasterio de Zenarruza http://www.monasteriozenarruza.net . Looking back, I can confirm that without the Taxi getting me up there I would have been difficult for me to make it to Gernika. At the end I still didn’t walk it all, but that’s another story. The landscape was quite nice and this stage nicer to walk as yesterdays. There were two possible stops for a drink, and I took advantage of it. One was at Munitibar. It’s in the name 😂 Also the only bus stop on the whole stage where one could have taken advantage off. I saw the bus actually arrive but decided already earlier against it. But the 2 beer and 2 pintxos did good. The next stop was at a Taberna Zarrabenta www.facebook.com/taberna.zarrabenta with a terrace, on which I enjoyed my 2 shanties. No food this time. The stage in total was a mix of all the various surfaces but we’ll mixed. Going up and further down into a wooded valley a series of wooden stairs. One around 220 steps had to be conquered. 110m downward. Soon later of course, it went up again. No elevator there😂

Passed through nice hamlets with groomed gardens and spread-out fruit trees. Especially the pears I remember, looked promising.

About 4km before Gernika, after a steep and long hill, a woman was sitting on the ground and was looked after by a neighbor. She did not feel well and after she agreed to go with me by Taxi to Gernika, I ordered it. Maria was her name. Married to a Dutch fellow and lived, as we found out, within 3 to 5km to my friends Nita & Stan in Apeldoorn. What coincident. The Taxi brought the two of us rapidly downhill into Gernika. As we approached the Taxi stand, next to the train station, 2 other Camino women, that I had seen earlier, ran towards us waving with their arms. At the end the 3 of them went uphill again on the other side, as their booked Albergue was located there. I had taken care of the fare to Gernika. Maria wanted to pay her share, but I had to tell her she did me a big favor of going with me in a taxi😂. I yesterday booked a room at Mundaka, as absolutely no room (at prices I was willing to pay) was available in Gernika. 20 minutes later, the train took me in 30 minutes to Mundaka https://www.euskoguide.com/places-basque-country/spain/mundaka-tourism/ (fare was only 2€ or so) a famous surf spot as I was informed by Willy, as we were on the phone later. He knew the place well. The train passed along the UNESCO Biosphere Urdaibai Nature Reserve, a river and its mouth. Sometimes swamp like, but quite nice to watch. Also a few camp sites along the way. The Hotel was simple, clean and functional. The lady at the reception worked hard on me, and at the end, she had sold a breakfast the next morning. Deco was the Surf theme. Dinner was taken next door. As the Chipirones I ordered first were out, Pulpo a la Gallega and ½ portion of Albóndigas with an appropriate red wine were the second choice.

20.05 Friday – Mundaka to Gernika and on to Bilbao

Being a surf hotel, breakfast was served from 10am onward. I was there at 09:45 and got lucky. At 10:30 I was sitting already again in the train towards Gernika. Gernika was important for me to visit. In 1937 the Nazi German Luftwaffe’s Condor Legion bombarded the town, to support Franco in the civil war. I had seen Picasso’s painting in Madrid. Gernika and Pforzheim, which encountered a similar bombing in the World War 2, are since 1988 connected by a town twinning agreement. First, I walked to the wall that carried the “Gernika” painting on ceramic tiles. Followed by a walk to the Santa Maria church which was closed. A stroll through the Parque de los Pueblos de Europa was next  https://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/museums/parque-de-los-pueblos-de-europa/aa30-12375/en/ . Finaly I visited Museo de la Paz de Guernica https://www.museodelapaz.org/ After about 2h I walked back to the train station and boarded not much later a train to Bilbao. Missed my station and hat to switch trains. The booked Hotel Bilbi www.hotelbilbi.com/en/index.html  was a 15 minute walk along and cross the Nerbioi River and uphill. It was far enough to get off the touristic crowds, that fill the historic Bilbao over the weekends. Not much later I went back to the center. Before getting closer to the Casco Viejo for a few rounds of Pintxos and Beer/wine I purchased a 24h Bilbao card for €10. It covers besides other advantages also free transportation. I strolled through the historic center and choose to get my pintxos and Txakolis at Guretoki www.guretoki.com Its level of created pintxos came close to the once at Gran Sol in Hondarribia. A great pleasure to experience it. Next to it was bakery shop with lovely petit fours and other Pâtisserie items. That’s where I got my desert and the last food item for the day.

21.05 Saturday – Bilbao

My second day in Bilbao. Had been here before but never the time enough to see Bilbao in more detail. Having had no breakfast the day started for me at the Mercado de la Ribera https://bilbaozerbitzuak.bilbao.eus/inicio/mercado-de-la-ribera/ It’s a mixture of all the different food shops as well as restaurants. Still many locals do their daily grocery, meat and fish shopping here. I took advantage of Cerveceria Arambarr. Their main location is at the Santutxu neighborhood. The breakfast special consisted of a ham & cheese sandwich as well as a glass of orange juice and a cup of coffee. After some thinking and organizing my thoughts, I took the L3 line to the Mariko station, made a sharp right and a left and ended up at the cable car entry gate of the https://funicularartxanda.bilbao.eus/en/home . Ride was free and wait time short. Once at the top the I circled the park nearby. Fantastic views of the city its iconic buildings the valley and river as such. Took a rest on a bench to further layout my walk back down into the valley. It was the name “Txakoli” on the touristic map that caught my eyes. Quite close and easy to locate. Once there (Txakoli Ballano) I saw a small building next to winyards, with a terrace, lots of cars in front and a waiter in action. I sat at one of the smaller tables in the shade and checked the situation while nipping on a glass of Txakolis and the Congrejo Sandwich (€3,65). People, breathing hard and sometimes with red colored faces, took advantage after having walked up hill (not me) to rest and recuperate. So did bicyclists looking quite healthy but more to meet, have a brief break, a drink and go on with the exercise. But also, people that just for the sake of it drove up here to enjoy the atmosphere and the views, stopped for a drink. It was a hot day, and it took me quite some time to arrive at the valley bottom and river level. By then it was Spanish lunch time. I avoided the table in the open and choose an inside table at the Cafeteria Haven right next to a Guardia Civil office. While eating I watched as a motorcycle rider parked at the Guardia Civil parking. A post walked over to tell him that that was not allowed. The rider showed him a document and the post saluted and walked back. I thought, whoever that fellow was, he did not provide a good example, but just confirmed again that equal is not equal. Next was a visit at the Museo Maritimo Ria de Bilbao. It provided good general information about the local ship and fishing industry and its importance to Bilbao. From there by tram to the Bilboat office, to see if I could get a seat in one of the tourist boats. This was not the case. Therefore, I walked back into the cities commercial center and towards the El Corte Inglés location, as I came across a food street. Found an Empanada shop that also sold Alfajores (memories of my Canary trip 6 months ago). I took my chance, purchased 2 empanadas, a Cola light and one Alfajores. The empanadas were soft, their dough had different colors and a hot stamp mark of its content. This was at a Muns Franchise location https://lasmuns.com I felt it was a good idea. One location would not provide much profit but 10 or 20 would. On I went via Metro and walking to the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Begoña http://iglesiasdebizkaia.com/basilica-de-nuestra-senora-de-begona-bilbao  I was a bit early, its doors still closed and typed my days activities instead in my room later. After the visit I went down a steep old roman street (Begoñako Andra Maria Kalea – Our Lady of Begoña Street) next to new stairs. I wondered and saw that I had already passed 3 stone crosses. In total at the end 6. Checked the internet and gave up. Normally the Way of the Cross has 14 stages. Once at the bottom I visited the Archaeological Museum. Once done the Pintxos Bars at Plaza Nuevo were my target. This time I settled at https://www.sorginzulo.com  but felt, that yesterday’s pintxos over all were the better once. At the Bat CASA FLORA, next to my hotel, I had my last drink – a Gin Tonic for a change – for the day.

I don’t remember how, but the food item “Cachopo” came up. I want to try it the next time in Asturias. I had seen it at one of the restaurants here. Basically, it’s a Cordon Bleu. However, it looks as if a steam engine drove over it. I guess one could read the newspaper through the meat layer if just the bread crumps would not be there (plata típico de Asturias –  https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cachopo )

22.05 Sunday – Bilbao to Portugalete

8:45 was checkout. By 09:20 I was done with a cup of coffee and a Pintxo with a fried egg, tomate and Jamón at Café Del Arenal at the edge of the historic center. Could watch the preparation of some sort of sporting event. Another marathon or bike race?? No participant had shown up yet.

Choose to take the Metro up to the furthest point I walked yesterday. It shorted my total distance by 5 or 6 km. And it was for free as my 24h ticket was still valid for some more minutes 😁

Even though the walk was flat along the river I tired fast. Also, the views in an industrial area with Shipyards, all along this stretch of the Camino Norte were frustrating too, I guess. Was it the hard surface on the track, or just me for other reasons with not enough energy??? After approx. 11km I reached the outskirts of Portugalete only to find out, I had booked the room for Monday not Sunday. I called and it was not an issue. But as I checked also my next hotel was one day off also. But again, no issue to change it during a phone call.

On the way, just short of Getxo www.getxo.eus/en/turismo I took my first photos of the Puente de Vizcaya https://puente-colgante.com  https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puente_de_Vizcaya

I took a little ferry boat to get over to Portugalete and also to get a better bridge view.

A book fair was on, music playing and people, mainly older, dancing to Basque life music.

I was hungry as it turned 2pm. Choose Bar Galeon  https://www.facebook.com/Bar-Galeon-158707478198067 and grabbed a bite and 2  shanties or in Spanish Claras, before walking up to the Pension Norte.

Laid on the bed and fell asleep for 1:30h. So, I must, for whatever reason, have been tiered.

Once up I went back down to the river and walked along it towards the open sea. Saw some ships being in the docks for upgrades. One of them  https://www.puentedemando.com/zamakona-pone-a-flote-el-buque-vivero-noruego-inter-atlantic  On both sides of the river were large churches. The Andra María Basilika was closed so I went with the flying ferry over to Getxo but the Las Mercedes church was closed as well. I had a break and a drink and went back. Thought only briefly, if I should go up with the elevator and walk over the bridge. Winds were strong, so I didn’t choose this option. Used the escalators to go uphill this time. A nice invention 😊 Had a small dinner item close to my hotel and went back to my room.

23.05 Monday – Portugalete to Castro Urdiales

At 8:15 I left the hotel and only minutes later I waited for the “3335”bus  to take me to the La Arenal at bus station at Probeña. Departure should have been at 08:35 but at the end it was 08:55. One just has to have a bit of patience 😃 Once at Probeña and not having had a coffee yet, a coffee and an egg and ham sandwich at bar/Restaurante Waitaki was consumed next to the Beach. But I saw a Tortilla with fried chicken pieces on top and BBQ sauce. Had to try it too. It was a beautiful made tortilla and the fried chicken and BBQ sauce a perfect combination – for me (sweet BBQ sauce😂) The walk today was with some up and downs but well balanced. First over the beach and then along the coastline with nice views. Made good time and also time for a brief stop for some liquid exchange at Restaurante Saltacaballo right at N-634. I took this shorter route. It split from the main Camino at Otón. Was 5km shorter than the other and also at lower altitude than the original one. Had to walk on the road but this with nice coastal views again. Just before Mioño as I came around a corner I saw a huge mining operation. Terrible what they did to the landscape. Not much later in the center of the village the space next to the road became a bit narrow and I saw on the map something like a short cut. Well, it wasn’t. I must have been the uphill punishment for taking the short cut. Arrived at 16:45 at Castro Urdiales but the Pension did not open before 5pm. Had to find a restaurant and food. Had an early dinner, walked the historic part of the center, historic church and back the Hotel Ardigales 11. It was located at a food street set up with many bars and restaurants. The windows well insulated windows kept the noise out. Unfortunately something had been wrong with my food and I blame the tortilla for it. Lots of eggs in there😁

24.05 Tuesday – Castro Urdiales to Santoña

Last night after I had studied, I decided to walk around 18km of the total of today’s 36km. However, it was heavy rain in the forecast again. The hiking path came only once close to the main road at Islares with a bus stop. Plan A was to go to Revilla at the end of the bus line and start walking there. If raining was an issue, Plan B was to get out of the bus at Islares and switch the bus and go to Laredo, to finish today’s stage on foot and boat at Santoña. The Bus driver, when I told him what I tried to achieve, mentioned that it was raining at Revilla already. As we left Castro Urdiales it started to rain here too. Therefore, I set plan B into action. Got out of the bus at Islares and jump into the other bus only 45 minutes later. It would bring me right into Laredo. At Islares I crossed the road and entered Café/Bar Elisa https://www.facebook.com/Bar-Elisa-Islares-1703647963251802 had a coffee and killed time. The other bus was on time and it’s final stop was at the bus terminal in Laredo. By the time I was organized the rain stopped and something like the sun peaked through the clouds once in a while. I opted therefore to get going and walk along the beach towards El Puntal, from where, as the Tourism Office told me, the ferry would take me over to Santoña. After a 6 km walk, I waited for the boat to pick me up at the beach pickup point. There I just zigzagged through the village, passed a large ceramic tile picture of Juan de la Cosa’s https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juan_de_la_Cosa travels and world map of 1500 – I add an enlarged copy of it) until I found my hotel. After a brief lunch and nap there I walked the village a bit in more detail. And yes, Santoña was bigger in production of canned anchovies then Getaria. Getaria seems to just have a smaller artisanal production. Santoña had several serious production sites and organizations. Today 7 or 8 serious fishing boats were in the Harbour. Later in the afternoon I saw them leaving towards the open sea.

I looked at a few shops but, as I was hiking with a full backpack already, could not carry any additional weight. Therefore, I opted for a more pleasurable way of testing the different makes. Twice a Gin-Tonic at different restaurants and each a can of Anchovies with it. It kind of worked. Could cheat myself around having dinner😂

25.05 Wednesday – Santoña to Santander

I had kind of a dilemma today. Wanted to stay in Santander for 2 nights but had 40km ahead of me. It would be a wet day again. The description of the stage ahead of me was nice but again as yesterday only one spot where I could catch a bus to Santander. That would have been in Noja and a 1,5h walk. The negative, I would have to kill 4 or 5 hours until the second of only two busses a day would leave towards Santander. I did not like that wait time and after walking again a bit through the village checked out of the hotel and walked to the bus stop.  Just about 20 minutes into the bus ride, the flood gates opened, and the water poured down on us. Saw some hikers and felt sorry for them. It was still sprinkling as I walked from the Bus Terminal to my small hotel Hotel Bedoya. It was in a small side street outside the center with no through traffic. As a consequence, I had to walk a lot to get to the center and beyond. Visited the Cantabria Maritim Museum  https://www.spain.info/en/places-of-interest/maritime-museum-cantabrico and had a late lunch at the Cántabra Olympic Shooting Federation https://fcto.org/federarse/ On the way back I saw the original Restaurant Cañadío www.restaurantecanadio.com . Had visited the Madrid outlet a few times and enjoyed the marvelous pintxos. This time however I was not drawn into it for whatever reason. Passed by the for tourism refurbished Mercado del Este. Also saw a pastry shop. Mune – pastas de Té https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100006282483539 and a few other once. Some of cookies however looked like our Christmas cookies. On the way back towards my quarters I passed by Mercado de la Esperanza. Outside were also tables with mostly textile and leather goods. Inside it all looked like a Mercado should be. The air smelld good of all the different food items and spices. For dinner I walked southeast of my hotel through the area of the main former fishing village now part of the city. Small houses and small restaurants. Wednesday did not seem to be a big night out day therefore I strolled back and had a bite and a drink on the way.  

26.05. Thursday Santander

Of what I walked today was not much shorter than a Camino stage. My goal was to visit the Palacio de la Magdalena pass over to the Playa Sardinero (where I had lunch) and walk back over the hill into the city center. It was again a hot and dry day. Had a few pits stops for some water exchanges and a sugar free ice cream. Later I realized the Pastelería Mune shop was open and I purchased a few of the cookies and a coffee. Consumed both while sitting on a bench and looking over the water. The rest of the day was packing my backpack for tomorrow’s flight, paying for my room and a small    

     

27.05. Friday – Santander to Marid

As expected, it was a cloudy day. At least in Santander. As the plane won altitude and passed over the Cantabrian Mountain Range, there were less clouds until they vanished just about 15 minutes into the flight.

Had to be in Madrid to attend Laura’s Graduation. Finally, she finished her educational with great success and as a proud dad I had to attend. Had to pass on many of the previous occasions and not only for Laura’s. Now all my kids are on track. My boys quite older than Laura, have a good life, family, 2 nice grandchildren, spouses and did well too. 

For me, I am not sure if and when I conclude the rest of the stages on the Camino Norte to Santiago. With some luck this year. If not, I hope next year. What I felt was, that my body fitness today is not the same any more as when I walked the Camino Frances 9 years ago. Even 5 years ago 30+ km a day was ok. Now I shoot for 15 to 25 depending on the hill profile. Riding an E-Bike can not compensate for hiking. The landscape passes too fast and many of the nice viewing spots are gone in seconds.

MALLORCA & Madrid 07. – 14.02.2022

07.02. Monday – STR – PMI

Woke up early due to gusty winds from North, banging straight at my bedroom window. Up at 06:30am, light breakfast to get rid of fruits, coffee and cleaning and organizing. At tram station 07:31 and jumping into S2 at main train station at 07:42 and arriving at airport 50 minutes later. The woman behind the check-in counter did not want to argue with me and accepted my luggage 15 minutes later. This 1h earlier than the official drop off time of my flight. Also as a consequence of my early arrival at airport, I had passed the security check in 10 minutes compared to 1:15h last time. Between this moment and me being at the arrival hall of the Mallorca airport 5h later all went as planned. I had booked of course the cheapest car I found. Clickt also on contactless process. Did not think much further then about the process. Silly me, tried to find a rental car service counter. After looking and asking I realized that there was no counter for me but a monitor in a metal enclosure with 2 draws. Took me only 30 minutes to find out and realizing that even as I gave all my data to the car rental agency I had forgotten, or over looked the fact, that I had to register it also at the actual rental company KeynGo https://www.goldcar.es/en/p/keyngo/ which is an affiliate of Interrent and also Goldcar – as I know now. Lucky I had a smartphone. Got through the registration process only to receive the information, that within one day, I will get the paperwork and Pin Code. I did not swallow that well. At the same time Goggle warned me about an unsafe website. If Goggle does that, I thought, it must be serious. It was. To make a long story short. Interrent = Goldcar personel at the counter helped out and only another 30 minutes later I sat in a white Toyota Yaris. Next shock came as I approached my final destination for the day.  After having been at the Canary Islands for 5 weeks, my idea was, to do not much walking or any other physical activity, but to just look at the island, its special locations and take note of the good once and return for a longer period again in the future. To not have to stay at a remote location, but would have walking options in the evening, I opted for Torrenova. South of Palma de Mallorca, easy to reach but kind off a bit off the main high volume tourist area – I hoped. I had checked the area via google street map and thought it’s OK. To my excuse I have to say that over the last years of travelling I think I was never at a “high volume tourist site” and trying to avoid tourist at the same time. When today, I passed through the surrounding areas, I realized that this place was absolutely dead. DEAD! I missed the high season and most hotels and restaurants, shops and such were closed, and some boarded up for good, due to Covid-19. I must have been lucky that my booked Hotel Elba Sunset Mallorca https://www.hoteleselba.com/en/hotel/elba-sunset-mallorca was actually open for business. I tried to find a restaurant after a brief nap, but decided at the end, a buffet at the hotel was better than any fast-food joint.

08.02. Tuesday – Southwest of Palma

Took it easy this morning. First good night sleep in a week or so. It must be the sea or air🤷‍♂️ Drove by a few viewpoints. Nothing exiting and by far not as good as on either El Hierro or La Gomera. Saw at Playa Portal Vells an Austrian with a converted VW Van. He visits the Baleares frequently, as there about no Camping sites at all on Mallorca, to always stays for a night at a nice place. Never had issues with Police. Does not camp per se. Just parks with open door and hatch. No chairs or table outside. Passed through Santa Ponça & Paguera where I walked by a street market and purchased in a shop a small tube of conditioner-for a fortune. Passed also 2 Golf Clubs but had no desires to play. I was on a reconnaissance tour on Mallorca, and when returning for a longer period of time I might play a round. Had lunch in Port d’Andratx https://www.visit-andratx.com/en/towns/port-dandratx/  (Zamburiñas & Pulpo a la Gallega with a glass of Albariño at Marisquería Galicia next to the church) One of the restaurants that did not need advertising  or a website. The part I was, close to the Harbour, was nice to walk. So far I had not seen or passed a site were I had a wow effect. Passed through Andratx https://www.visit-andratx.com/en/ and picked up Ma-10 towards Estellencs and on to Banyalbufar https://www.seemallorca.com/banyalbufar . I was able to find a few times a spot to stop the car to take a few photos. I drove on until Valldemossa, where I stopped for just about 1h. The Charterhouse www.cartoixadevalldemossa.com/en was closed. I was 1h to late. This is a place I will come back to at a another visit to Mallorca. But coffee shops were open. Stopped at one that promoted “Coca the Patata” 🤔 Never heard of it before. Well, I ordered one with a café con leche. It was puffy, fluffy and tasted neutral. The sweet chocolate that I declined when offered, was missing 😊 Here are 2 recipes  https://www.edibleeastend.com/2016/07/06/catalan-country-picnic/ https://baketheseasons.com/potato-roll-from-mallorca-coca-de-patata-mallorquina/

From here I drove towards Soller. Gave up to park and walk this interesting city. A one-way maze and nowhere to park. There is an old train coming to Soller from Palma. If I have time, I want to try it and go on with the tram to Puerto Soller. All in all, some 1:30h ride. Just after the tunnel below the Tramontana range, I saw the first orchards with blooming almond trees. The main reason I am here. Tomorrow I will follow a route I put together that will hopefully get me to see lots of blooming almond trees.

09.02. Wednesday – at the foot of the Tramontana Range

This was the day where I want to concentrate to find as many Almond trees blooming. Had seen Orchards yesterday on the way home next to the highway without a chance to stop for a photo. Still at home, I had mad notes on good sites described in a travel book and at various websites. During breakfast I took my notes of the villages and looked at the map to locate the roads that connected them best. Meaning “small and local” roads. Here my list:

  • Santa Maria de Camion Ma-2021 to Alaró
  • Alaró on Ma-2110 to Lloseta
  • Lloseta on 2113 & 2112 to Mancor de la Vall and on Ma-2112 & Ma-2114 to Caimari
  • Originaly I wanted to go on Ma- 2130 to Inca but gave that part up.

Instead, I changed plans and went from Caimari on Ma-2130 & Ma-10 to Pollença and later on to Port de Pollença

When I started driving towards Alaró it became obvious to me that I was one week or so to early. The trees showed various stages of the flower buds. Unfortunately only single trees where really in full flower. It was still nice to look at and one could imagine how it would look like otherwise. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the drive. Mother nature provided nice and interesting views, that were all very satisfying for me. Unfortunately, the villages and cities I passed, stopped, had lunch and such, were not as impressive to me as the countryside and nature. Had lunch in the center of one of the small villages. No place for good food but sun was sufficient and the beer cold. In search of a meal, I realized that maybe 40 or 50% of the restaurants were closed. Not sure if it was more like a recession or being off the tourist season. Went on but did not stop in Port de Pollença but passed just trough the the Passeig Saralegui as far as I could. The access to the center with the harbour was closed and I was tired of driving and looking at the same time. Meaning I activated the blinker, turned left and returned back to my hotel. There will be another time to visit Mallorca with more time and maybe with a bike to explore the island in more detail. If not I am not really sure if I‘d miss something. To finish the day, I was searching for at least 5km along the coast and the continuous shops for a Café or a decent Cafeteria that would serve also a cake. At the end I went to the small restaurant at the pool area at my hotel and got lucky there.

10.02. Thursday – Palma de Mallorca

It was 10:30 when I arrived at the Mercat de Santa Catalina, after I had found the underground parking. It is a Market Hall as others, but in a smaller version. Not many stalls. I walked for 20 minutes to get to the second one in town. Mercat de O’livar https://www.mercatolivar.com/en/home/ . It was bigger with a second floor and also a hall for a separate fish market. Unfortunately, I had made a reservation at Cellar Pages   https://cellerpages.com . Could therefore not eat and try the different kitchens. But after I had moved on and found Cellar Pages at an alley I can confirm “It’s a hidden Gem”. Antonio recommended it. Nice people with good service and a good kitchen. I had been on search for Sopa mallorquina. It’s kind of a stew (Bread Soup https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bread_soup) with vegetables and in my case, only little sausage pieces included. The rest was boiled humid/wet vegetables stacked on bred which had soaked up the stock. It tasted very well and was a good base onto which I laid some potato slices, lamb chops and a pan seared paprika. The final toping, they did not have. Therefore, I moved on to Restaurant El Pilón. There I finally got my Crema Catalan. It was a good one and a Cortado went with it. Before lunch, I had also visited the Cathedral https://www.catedraldemallorca.org/en  and Basilika San Francisco  https://www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/palma-de-mallorca/attractions/basilica-de-sant-francesc/a/poi-sig/1048553/1004365   After having been in the city and walked it for 5+h it was time to return. Walking with Google Map as my helper, it guided me in a zigzag through the center of the city. I passed the Café and Bakery outlet, Horno Santo Cristo https://hornosantocristo.com, in the Calle Sant Miquel. I looked at the products and saw empanadas in round forms and different fillings (like an Australian Pie), that I had not seen before and also, they had the Cocos de Patatas I tried 2 days ago. I purchased some to take to Madrid tomorrow. With a coffee I had ordered, I also ate a Coco de Patatas. Not long after that I passed a Café and I don’t know why, looked at their window and saw the Alfajores I saw/eat in La Gomera. Got 6 of the smaller once, also for Madrid. I was back at the hotel 30 minutes later. Had to take a very brief nap, paid my dues, as tomorrow morning I don’t want to spend the time for it. Heading to Madrid to meet family. Have to leave for the airport at 7:15 the latest.

14.02. Mallorca – Stuttgart

At the airport I was able to purchase for family and friends at home some Coco de Patatas and Ensaimadas https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ensa%C3%AFmada for them to try out.

El Hierro – La Gomera – Tenerife

08.12.2021-12.01.2022

08.12.2021 Wednesday / Stuttgart to Los Cristianos (Tenerife)

Precisely at 8am I left home and 11 minutes later I entered the U5 tram. Changed at the Main Train Station into an S3 at 8:50 at the airport. By 9:15 I was done with the check-in and that’s where the wait started. 1:10h later I finally had passed the security check. Due to the reduced flights and less travelers, the security lanes were reduced dramatically. I was 3h early at the airport so it did not bother me, but many people tried to jump lanes, as their flights were called out. Of course, some blond and black haired extremely stylish women tried to play dump. There were about 50 people in front of me. A young American told them, with an intense loud voice, to go somewhere else, or get up 1h earlier next time. At the end someone let them in the queue. No German spoke up-not even me 🤔. I would bet money on it, that those two did it every time they are at any airport or queue.

Boarding and the flight were as usual but with masks. It was a grey morning when I left home. I was surprised by the views once in the air as the Swabian Alb mountain range peaked through the clouds. While on board and “enjoying” my pasta and tomato lunch (and 2 very small bottles of Spanish red), I thought there are worse places to be right now. As we approached Tenerife there were the clouds again, and I hoped for higher temperature. Once at the South Airport of Tenerife we all had to show our immigration health questionnaire that had a QR code, the body temperature was measured via a camera system while on the move. The temperature outside the airport hall was nice at near 20°C.

I checked and found a shared shuttle transfer for €5 to my hotel – only 1,40 € more expensive than a Bus. Got out direct at the La Branda Reveron Plaza  www.labranda.com/en/hotel/labranda-reveron-plaza.html  a city hotel. I took, after some 9h, for the first time my mask off for good. It gave me a feeling, what it must be, to wear such masks every day and often for more than 9h. The photos of Tenerife below show it clear, what was true for I belief most of the days, that the clouds stuck to the North while the South was mostly, at least at sea level, free of them               .

The day ended with a walk along the beach watching a nice sundown, search for some sea food restaurant just to get a grilled Pulpo. So far, I always had Pulpo a la Gallego in the past – boiled and with boiled potatoes and some paprika powder.  The locals did not seem to bother. I watched newcomers and it was a favorite dish. I ate it with some Patatas Arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes – the canary small type of potatoes eaten in whole with the skin) with green and red mojo sauce https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papas_arrugadas . 2 glasses of Verdejos from the peninsula helped to wash it down. The local white wine was only available by the bottle. Today I did not want to try to empty one by myself. On the way to the hotel, I passed a nice-looking bakery. Still serving little fruit tartelettes and coffee. Well, guess what 😊

09.12.2021 Thursday / Los Cristianos to Valverde/El Hierro  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Hierro

As the Canary Islands are on Greenwich time. It kind of threw me off a bit. I went to bed later than at home, but did not sleep long enough in the morning. Something that will stay with me for some time. By then I most likely will return home and must change my habits again. Watching TV helped to pass time. The weather on the Spanish Peninsular, that I saw on TV, was quite cold with winterly conditions. Breakfast was at the 08:40 time slot (thanks to Corona). I had an early in-room cup of instant coffee and showed up at the breakfast room on time. 3 options were available I choose the Mediterranean Breakfast and added some scrambled eggs. Before leaving Tenerife, I wanted to purchase a Spanish verb book (conjugation) that I forgot to take with me at the end. Now I was searching for a book shop that had one. I got lucky. Now not sure if I will take advantage of it 😁 Otherwise all morning long, I walked along the beaches, looked for the bus terminal and the cost and schedule for the airport bus (to know what to do in 5 weeks when returning home). In between I tried to have a nap (had paid an upcharge for a late checkout), had a sandwich for lunch and got ready to leave the hotel and walk towards the Harbour. I had chosen the hotel for its location – in walking distance to the Harbour.  I left a bit early. Had to wait for one hour – relaxed. It was one of the stylish designed tri-catamaran ferries from Armas https://www.navieraarmas.com/en/ that once a day went to El Hierro. It left Los Cristianos at 17.30 and arrived at 20:00. My at www.transhierro.es prebooked Opel Corsa, was waiting for me. The temperature at the Port was around 20/22C. From there, to Valverde the capital of the island, it was just about 15 minutes. But always uphill. I was briefly in contact with the organization, that rented out the apartment in which I will stay for the next 4 days, just to let them know I was on the way. After I had driven once around the village, I parked at the Plaza and started walking with my luggage from there. They waited for me at the door. Right after check-in to ELHIERRO BED&LOFT https://elhierro-bed-loft-valverde-el-hierro.booked.net I visited the close by Bar/Cafeteria/Restaurant Zabagu  https://www.facebook.com/zabagu/?business_id=10152592499697447  to get a bite, before falling asleep. The apartment was new, quite large (81m²) and nicely decorated and fully equipped. What was obvious from the beginning was the low temperature in the apartment. Here they don’t heat. Having 15/16C outside means that at one point of time you basically have the same inside. It made staying up not very enjoyable. I look forward to the other 2 locations that I will switch to during my 2 weeks stay on El Hierro https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Hierro .

10.12.2021 Friday / Valverde and vicinity

2 Espresso sized cups of a strong coffee in the apartment woke me up and a provided banana gave me a power boost. Taking a shower was a challenge, but once under the warm water it was OK. A stroll through the village followed. What I realized right away was, that it was windy. 2 large bottles of water were my first purchase today. A stop at a Bar was next. Another 2 larger cups of coffee and a toasted cheese/ham croissant was it at the end. I liked the Bar Balaustrada https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guFRvXJVW3w . It was run by a lively Argentinian. Once back at the room, I choose a hiking path and got ready for it. Before I could start driving towards it, I had to get gasoline. I was driving yesterday on reserve up hill. The hiking route I choose was called Hoya Fileba – Mirador Jinama https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/jinama/ . The Rother hiking guidebook for the island had a total of 43 tours to choose. For me also nice as no high peaks had to be conquered. Guess what – weather was not nice. But it was also a circular hiking path. I estimated it to be around 10°C as in Valverde it was 15°C, ½ hour earlier and I was 5-600 m up in altitude. I found the unidentified Parking and got going. First was the impressive viewpoint of the Fireba crater. From there it was a small path well visible and easy to follow through the Laurel Forest https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laurel_forest . I had the GPS map on my phone but had a printed back up map in my backpack, together with a ½ ham/cheese baguette sandwich. The path was soft to walk on. The trees all wet from the moisture the fog brought up from the sea. Consequently, all was quite green, the trees had lots of moss on them. Also, sheep were grazing in the open areas. After having passed a telescope installation, I saw a red line indicated together with a sign, that left no room for interpretation, that from here on forward the path was closed. From here I followed my instinct, GPS signal and the rest of the map information and walked a short cut to the return path. So far, no photos of any coastline or such, just the crater and the thick cloud forest. I was walking along the ridge and no views 😢 If the weather changes, I might try some other day again. I drove now on small and narrow roads, stopped at some viewpoints respectively stopped, just to take advantage of what I judged, as a photo opportunity. The Mirador de La Peña, designed by César Manrique, was the best https://www.hellocanaryislands.com/viewpoints/el-hierro/la-pena-viewpoint/# . Fog free with stunning views into the El Golfo Valley. There is also a Thriller series running on TV called „El Hierro” Its locations on the island are marked. Also, here at La Peña. Its possibly still available at the ARTE or ZDF Mediathek. Today’s lunch that I had earlier in the San Andrés village at Mesón Jarera https://www.facebook.com/mesonjarera was simple but tasteful. A thick chicken soup with some veggies and pasta, followed by squids in its ink with some boiled potatoes which suit me just fine. By now it was 5pm and I returned home. Had not in mind to have dinner, but to eat instead the sandwich I had on me, and I also open the bottle of white, that I received yesterday as a welcome present.

11.12.2021 Saturday / Valverde and vicinity

No hiking today! I started again with a breakfast at the Balaustrada Café. While sitting at the counter I looked at maps and the guidebook. I finalized my plan to visit some viewpoints, villages etc. between Valverde and the North of the island. I had chosen the 3 locations where I stayed while on the island, to not have to drive the same roads and such for 2 weeks. As I left the Café, I followed Google Map to find the local Fabrica de Quesadillas de Adrián Gutiérrez and Daughters https://quesadillasadriangutierrez.com/ . The shop was also highlighted in the guidebook. I purchased only one items that look like a star and was quite heavy, to see what it was and how it tasted. I can say, that they have nothing in common, with the food of the same name in a Mexican Restaurant. It’s like a moist and heavy lemon cake but includes cheeses from Sheep and goat as well as cow milk + a hint of Anis. The first place in row to visit was Charco Manso https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/charco-manso/ The natural pools were here the attraction beside the arch a bit off from the village. Next was Pozo de las Calcosas https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/pozo-de-las-calcosas/ interesting again the vines and different landscapes on the drive to this location. For the first time I saw vines. White & Red wines are produced all over the canary islands. Red is not grown that often. Next time on the islands I might follow more the wine & culinary trail https://theculturetrip.com/europe/spain/articles/a-wine-lovers-guide-to-the-canary-islands By now it was close to 2pm, the lunch hour not only on the peninsula but also here. For that I drove to Tamaduste https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/tamaduste/ because here was no restaurant at all. In Tamaduste the natural pool was the highlight. The restaurant – the only one open was Cafetería y Tapas, Bimbache https://cafeteria-y-tapas-bimbache.negocio.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral I enjoyed a boiled sliced meet in its juice. Had a beer with it and some canary potatoes. As I sat there, I remembered having seen a Binter https://www.bintercanarias.com/eng  Turboprop land at the airport some hours ago. I checked it out and another one should land at 15:15. I wanted to take a photo of it assuming it would be pretty low overhead. Later I had to run as it was out at sea further than I had imagined. But it worked out. I remembered the Mirador Jinama from yesterday. Today I had the time, not to walkto it but to visit it by car. It went steep upwards. I am not sure at what angles the car would roll backwards but was affright I was close. First gear worked. Second not. I made it and realized that I was lucky weather wise. Unfortunately, as I wandered around a bit, I realized that clouds/fog moved in. I went out onto the platform, shot my photos and that was about it. Close by was not only the starting point of Camino de Jinama https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/camino-de-jinama/, what I thought was an interesting hike. But the difference of altitude of 450m I was not sure if I could master it. But there was also a small chapel for the Virgen de la Caridad https://elhierro.travel/que-hacer/ermita-de-la-caridad/ It was the first time where I thought I was missing Willy my hiking Buddy. Already yesterday in the fog my thoughts circled around the question, what to do if something unexpected happens?

At that point I decided to return to my apartment. I had, at lunch time, made a reservation for a dinner at 20:00 at a restaurant of which I had read positive reviews. As it was 5:30pm, to kill time and increase my sleep time from last night I rested for one hour. Watching TV killed another hour. Now it was time to walk the 10 minutes to La Mirada Profunda, C. Santiago, 25, 38900 Valverde  https://www.restaurantelamiradaprofunda.es/  Unfortunately right now its website is not active. The quality was the best I had so far seen on the island. Had a chickpea cream soup, a whole Pulpo in a vinegar /oil dressing and parts of a suckling pig with cream of carrot and potato. With it went a glass of white local dry and a 0,5L Ramon Bilbao.

12.12.2021 Sunday / Valverde – La Frontera

The guidebook pointed it out and recommended strongly to visit the Sunday market in Tigaday in the El Golfo Valley. I found it, but it was kind of the opposite. Dead, no action and only the elderly man of the village sitting in the Bars or Cafés. The local Police had a strong presence. I saw, what I thought was a chapel, on a hill above the little city. It was when standing next to it the separate bell tower of the church Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Candelaria below it https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iglesia_de_Nuestra_Se%C3%B1ora_de_la_Candelaria_(La_Frontera) .

Before I went on, I drove to the second Fabrica de Quesadilla on the island, to try their version. Had a coffee with a Croissant and kept the Quesadilla for later. From here I set my next goal on Google Map to Restinga https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/la-restinga-village/ Up I drove through very, very, curvy roads. Fun driving but small and not many points to stop for photos. Coming from the west and going up, soon I was in the wet area and the forests I walked 2 days ago. Passed a large parking spot where many hikers moved around. I turn right into a downward winding road and a forest of old and huge pine trees. The brown and dead needles covered the floor all over and there were absolutely no bushes or such. It looked kind of naked. Never had seen something like that. The trunks showed also a black color and I wondered if fires helped to keep the bushes away🤷‍♂️ La Restinga was that kind of resort town I hadn’t seen so far. It was clearly set up for sun seekers, watersports and such. Many nice sail boats moored there including a larger 3 mast one from Sweden. It’s some kind of school for what I understood from its website www.marinalaroverket.se . I had planned to be there to have a late lunch. I choose Restaurante El Refugio to be my lunch place. Had some Gambas al ajillo and an Alfonsino (English = longfinned beryx, red bream, or imperador) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfonsino       with potatoes and the here common mojos. Later went back uphill a bit and turned left to go to Cala de Tacorón. A natural pool again. Did not spend much time there and headed back up hill just to stop at the Volcanological Interpretation Geocenter https://www.meridianosau.es/centros/centro-de-interpretacion-del-geoparque/ As I just got out of the car, I was approached by some employee telling me that they were out of power and closed. I went further back up to El Pinar, where a smaller exhibit of the volcanic basics was https://www.meridianosau.es/centros/centro-de-interpretacion-geologico From here I returned to my room to start working on my reports of the last 2 days.

13.12.2021 Monday / Transfer Day / Valverde to Pozzo de la Salud

Via WhatsApp I had organized with Jorge to check-out of the apartment by 11:15. No paperwork followed nor an inspection. We had a coffee chatted and I left. I had in mind to return today to the Parking of the Mirador La Llanía. But first I drove through regular and forestall roads to the Interpretation Center – Tree Garoé https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/arbol-garoe/. I wanted to learn more about the tree and see the successor of the GAROE holy tree. 30 minutes later I drove back to the main road. I stopped at the road side and was walking slightly up hill through the forest. Just about 200m later I arrived at the Mirador La Llanía http://el-hierro.gequo-travel.de/sehenswert/aussichtspunkte/mirador-de-la-llania . Nothing to see but fog. This at 1340m above the sea. I should have seen the “El Golfo” Valley. Created about 50.000 years ago by a large collapse of the surrounding Hills that could not support themselves anymore. Investors from La Palma had to show the locals that with this land agricultural activities in a larger scale would be possible. Today Bananas and pineapple are the main fruits grown. From my parking I had to accelerate a short time, but then without gear engaged rolled for some 10 minutes downhill, through the dense fog, and on for another 10 minutes until I arrived finally at Tigaday. Had to get some gasoline and visit the public restroom before heading further. My next stop was Pozo de la Salud www.hellocanaryislands.com/museums-and-places-of-interest/el-hierro/pozo-de-la-salud/# and the Hotel Balneario Pozo de la Salud https://elhierro.travel/que-hacer/hotel-balneario-pozo-de-la-salud/ . But not before having, due to the wrong address in my google Map, to drive once in a circle though the hamlet of Sabinosa https://elhierro.travel/que-hacer/pueblo-de-sabinosa/ . It was tough to get around corners without having to set back and try again. Finally, I drove through a very curvy single lane and steep road down to the valley floor and into the parking lot of my hotel for the next 4 days. At 2:45pm I sat at the restaurant table and was able to get a plate of mixed tuna and veggies in olive oil. Did not suite my stomach well. Butt in the evening and after 2 cups of Camille tea I was able to eat at least 1 plate of fish soup for dinner – but not more. Once back at my room I gazed at the stars and immediately saw 2 shooting stars. Once I had grabbed my camera I waited for 10 minutes – and nothing anymore.

14.12.2021 Tuesday / Pozzo de la Salud – and South of Island

After having watched German TV until very late last night I logically got up late as well. Was not the last one in the breakfast room😁 Decided to drive along Hi-503 towards the other side of the Island. Stopped at a point from where I saw the Orchilla Lighthouse https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/orchilla-lighthouse from well above. Until that point it took me about 3h. The way back only 20 minutes. On the way towards the Lighthouse however I stopped about every 200m, walked to the cliff waited for some water fountain shooting out of a small blowhole, rock formation, etc. …….  I also stopped at the Mirador de El Lomo Negro http://el-hierro.gequo-travel.de/sehenswert/aussichtspunkte/mirador-de-lomo-negro . I not just took photos there, but also walked uphill for about 1h or so, gaining approx. 100 to 150m in altitude. Gave me the chance for even more photos of landscape, former volcano activities and of wind twisted trees. On this narrow winding roads of course, Lorries came towards me also. Twice! Lucky there was always a passing place for me to get out of their way. I decided at the furthest point (where I already could see the Orchilla Lighthouse) to turn around and not trying to go further but return to the Hotel that way. I had an 2:30pm Spa appointment ad did not want to be late. It even gave me that chance to get a coffee and a Quesedilla at a restaurant close to the Hotel. The rest of the day I spend by driving towards La Frontera to visit La Maceta https://www.hellocanaryislands.com/natural-pools/el-hierro/la-maceta/ Even at around 4pm, there was a slow, but constant flow, of cars coming in to visit the pools or just to walk down and take photos, as I did. For dinner I opted to eat in a local restaurant. I choose Sol de España https://restaurantesoldeespana.com Standard food items, home style cooking and not expensive. One thing is on my list for Thursday, my last day here at this location at the island. I will start at 7am to drive up hill to the Mirador La Llanía. As I looked upward this morning, I realized that there was no fog at the ridge. I hope it to be the same then. Breakfast time is from 8:30 to 11am. Still gives me lots of time to have a late breakfast.

15.12.2021 Wednesday / Pozzo de la Salud – and South of Island

At the time of an SPA appointment, I looked upward again as yesterday and the whole ridge was in the clouds again. Not sure if I will be lucky tomorrow. The appointment did not work out. The girl called in sick and no one told me. Just bad organization or just regular style? No one here I know that I could fearlessly ask that question😁 I was offered a new time at 11am. I took it, even though it did mess up my plan for today. Later I choose to drive towards La Frontera. Visited Punta Grande. Again, a kind of viewpoint at sea level. It’s at the edge of a newer development. Nice smaller vacation houses for rent. No swimming in the Ocean recommended though. Next was a visit at the Ecomuseum of Guinea https://www.meridianosau.es/centros/ecomuseo-de-guinea-2/ This original Hamlet can be visited for free. It’s houses and its displays show historical details of the farmers and fishers past lifestyle. Integrated into its ground is a lava chamber that I visited also. In addition, there is also a large lizards breeding Center. Its job is to raise the amount of these species that is right now close to extinction https://www.animalespeligroextincion.org/reptiles/lagarto-gigante-del-hierro/.  By now it was 2:15pm and my tummy spoke to me. Went up to Tigaday, walked the main street and had a small tapas with a beer for lunch. By now I felt not sure I would be able to have enough time for a complete tour in daylight. Would have to drive on narrow roads up the hill and do some sightseeing there. Opted instead to drive through Sabinosa back to the hotel. Laid flat, had a nap, wrote my notes and felt good doing it. Finished reading my magazines I brought with me too. Before going to sleep, I debated with myself, if I want to get up early to check if the weather was fine to try to go uphill for a photo or take it easy and just wake up whenever it was due and check then. I opted for the last.

16.12.2021 Thursday / Pozzo de la Salud – and South of Island

Today I got lucky. Looking towards the sea, the clouds were out quite far over the sea and peeking as far Northeast as I could, I did not see any clouds either. Once at the Lobby I went outside and saw that the whole Ridge was free of clouds or fog. After a fast and short breakfast, I went as fast as I was allowed and sometimes a bit faster, uphill to the Mirador La Llanía https://www.ielhierro.net/mirador-de-la-llania/ . There the sun was shining for a change and the view into the “El Golfo Valley” was clear. Once I was done with taking videos and photos, I went back to the car to check where I wanted to go next. I choose to go and visit Santuario Nuestra Señora de los Reyes  https://www.ielhierro.net/santuario-de-nuestra-senora-de-los-reyes It’s for the catholic believers on the island, the spiritual center. Every 4 years the Virgin is carried for 28km from here to Valverde https://www.spain.info/en/calendar/descent-virgin-kings  It is placed in this Hermitage since 1546. If you are interested, it should be again on the 1. Saturday in July 2022 – if Corona allows.

Next was the Mirador de Malpaso https://www.ielhierro.net/mirador-de-malpaso/ with an altitude of 1501m. A 30 minutes drive on 15km and about90% on volcano gravel/rough powder. The rain washed it out and I had to watch that I would not hit the oil pan onto a rock. The views of this highest elevation on El Hierro were spectacular but still into the same “El Golfo” http://el-hierro.gequo-travel.de/sehenswert/landschaft-auf-el-hierro/el-golfo

To get to the Centro de Interpretación de Parque Cultural de El Juan https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/parque-cultural-de-el-julan I had to drive kind of in a circle. In retrospect, by organizing it better, I could easily have saved 1h driving and that on bad narrow roads. I finally made it. It was a new building, had originally also a Café integrated but was not open due to Covid 🤷‍♂️. The information was interesting but, the also offered guided tour to the original locations, are more to my liking. I might book that for next week. The last stop today was at El Sabinar. The Juniper Trees that grow here were wildly formed by the strong Tradewinds. One of the most photographed trees on the island is located there. https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/el-sabinar/ Finally I went back to Pozzo de Salud and visited the local restaurant for a nice Salad of greens, Tomato and lots of various fruits. My second time I ordered it.

17.12.2021 Friday / Transfer Day / Pozzo de la Salud to Las Playas

It was 10 am when I checked-out. Today it was a transfer day where I would end up at the Las Playas area in the Parador de el Hierro. But before that would happen, I had in mind to drive up the coast to visit the Lighthouse de Orchilla https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/orchilla-lighthouse/ . As I came close, I realized it was only 3km more to the Orchilla Pier http://el-hierro.gequo-travel.de/sehenswert/straende-badeplaetze/muelle-de-orchilla . More a recreational area with a concrete block reaching into the sea. Further up were some wooden and lava stone constructions that spend some shade, with simple fixed tables and benches. But also restrooms were set up. Like I had learned in Costa Rica and Peru, the toilet paper went separately into a basked and not washed down with the water. From this location I went back to walk around the light House. The access was closed, no entry to the main buildings possible. In my guidebook it was mentioned one should visit it at sundown. The best of the island. If it would not be that far off and on wider roads, I would have considered it. On the way back to the main road I stopped again. At the end of a 1,4km walk one could see the historical “0” Meridian https://elhierro.travel/en/what-to-do/monumento-al-meridiano-cero/    valid until the 19. Century bevor Greenwich was established. It took roughly 1h to walk the total of 3km and take the photos.

The one thing left to do, after a small lunch at the Bar el Mentidero, at this part of the island, was to visit the Centro de Intepretación del Geoparque in El Pinar https://www.meridianosau.es/centros/centro-de-interpretacion-del-geoparque/ The exhibits were shown mainly in film or digital applications where while standing in front of screen one could with its hands move a curser and go through the topics. Nicely made, but I found the films of the 2011 undersea eruption of a volcano just a few kilometers off the coast of Restinga, much more interesting. The village had to be evacuated at the time. The surroundings of its location are only 20.000 years old. But still in all that time for me the lava area looked as if it was created just a few years ago. There were plants, but without doing a lot of work, nothing would grow. Later I saw again a large greenhouse for Bananas and wonder if that all pays out. Maybe because of the EU subsidies🤷‍♂️ Next was my new location at the are Las Playas. The hotel was in a straight line only 6,8km away but to drive there it was 1h and 47km. Thanks to the landscape and volcanic actions over the last few millions of years. My new Hotel the Parador de el Hierro https://www.parador.es/en/paradores/parador-de-el-hierro made a nice impression. It’s a historic building, the wooden floor squeaks and room interiors are a bit old fashioned, but it all fits nicely together. It is squeezed in between the sea and a straight mountain wall. A salad did fit in. Ate at the bar. Did not want to get challenged by a large menu, or what I saw through the door, a buffet.

18.12.2021 Saturday / Las Playas

It started OK. After breakfast, I did get ready to see, if or how far I could walk, up the steep mountain wall behind the hotel. The first part went along the sea and up the road towards the last houses, all went well. As I gained altitude over the steep raising path, I realized pretty fast, that I would most likely, not make it up the 850m in altitude to Las Casas. Already wanted to give up at 100m but forced myself with a few stops in between until 250m. That was it. Already on the way up I had felt a light dizziness occasionally and my stomach talked to me too. As I was back after 2h at the hotel, it stared to hurt. I laid down and in whatever position I moved my stomach hurt. I drank to large cups of chamomile tea. That did not help much either. At one point I had to vomit. Pain still was there but after a while remained at a low level. At 6pm I canceled the tour at Centro de Interpretación de Parque Cultural de El Juan. I would have seen the Bimbache https://elhierro.travel/en/discover/history-el-hierro/#      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimbache historic sites of the Petroglyphs of which I saw the copies 2 days earlier. Had a chicken soup at 8pm and took a large pot of chamomile tea with me. At 2pm a diarrhea set in. After that and another6h of sleep I felt much better if not to say fine.

19.12.2021 Sunday / Las Playas

For breakfast only some white toast with ham and a soft egg. It stayed in and did not cause any other issue. Once I felt that my body was stable enough I sat in the car and drove a bit in the near vicinity along the coast. The rest of the day I stayed mostly on the hotel ground and also had several short naps. Nothing to eat until 8pm, when I eat the ordered grilled fish with potatoes and nothing else. Went to bed early and hoped for a good night’s sleep.

20.12.2021 Monday / Las Playas + other sites

Last night’s sleep was the deepest and longest on history for me 9:17h and a score of 100. And I felt like it. Well rested, felt good and was ready to act again. Breakfast was still in reduced quantity. A sandwich, a boiled egg. That was it. By now I had seen close to all viewpoints, other interesting sites of any value and tried different food items. I just started to revisit the once I had bad weather when there the first time or went to smaller sites not worth it earlier. It helped to pass the time and had me on slow pace. No lunch but dinner at 8pm again. Again fish, but this time as the kitchen prepared it. After 2 days of absolute tasteless food items one can imagine what my taste buds felt like 🎆🎉coming into contact with spices and such.

21.12.2021 Tuesday / Transfer Day / Las Playas to La Gomera

Stayed at the Hotel until midday. I drove a last time past the little harbor, had a coffee there and was at 2pm at the airport. I parked the car at the car park, took some last photos of its state and placed the key under the foot mat. By 2:45pm I was at the Binter check-in counter. By the time of the security check the little airport was quite busy. My flight took off on time at 15:45. La Gomera and Tenerife’s Teide passed on my right side in good and clear view. The Dash7 turboprop landed on time at TFN.  It was a short 30-minute transfer stop before we took off again towards La Gomera. By then it was 5:30pm. Still 3h earlier than by boat with also a change of ferries at Los Cristianos. The representative from La Gomera Rental was on site and 20 Minutes after landing I sat in a Fiat Panda and was on the way towards my Hotel Jardin Tecino www.jardin-tecina.com . Already while looking into details yesterday, I wondered why the Hotel location in Google Map, was so far off its Golf Course. Did at the time not question Googles Information. Only after driving in circles and no Hotel around I had to investigate it again. I took the address from the Booking confirmation sheet which did not help. I decided to drive towards the Golf course and if it comes to the worst just ask again a dump question. Once near, I saw a marker and direction to the hotel. By now my mood wasn’t the best. As I had parked and walked with my luggage the short distance to the entry door, I saw a huge entrance hall, at least 10 registration desks (2 manned) and a large digital display calling out the next in line. I realized that when asking for a number, one must get ahold of one. I looked for the ticket machine and did not see one. Another waiting customer told me to turn around. There they were facing the exit doors. Why didn’t they place them near the display or in front of the registration area?? By now my mood got worse, especially after I had waited for 20 minutes and did not see any improvement. 10 minutes later it was finally my turn. Process was smooth and painless.  Why it took the others that long?? The hotel had 400 rooms and belief it or not, I had to ask for directions. As with the ticket machines no logical guide signs and layout of room numbers as even and uneven numbers on them. As I write this, with a 2 days distance to the fact, I question, if I might be getting too old for such large hotels. At the time of booking, I felt lucky getting a room. Did not really check the hotel in detail. Would I have not booked knowing it had 400rooms🤷‍♂️ I don’t like eating buffet food when in a vacation. Therefore, I drove down to the Santiago Beach and had a Pulpo a la Gallega for dinner. With a G&T at the hotel bar the evening ended. Some good Information on La Gomera can be found here at https://www.geoexpro.com/articles/2013/11/la-gomera-green-pearl-of-the-canaries

22.12.2021 Wednesday / Playa Santiago

As I normally do, I stayed local all day long and figured out where I was and what the place around me was. Therefore, as I felt like walking, I changed clothes and shoes, searched for a tour and started to walk through the hotel gardens and down an elevator to the sea level and the Beach Club Laurel. I went on, through the street of the village and later along a ridge of a cooled down lava stream. It went up hill constantly since I left the beach area. This on good surface and not as steep as on El Hierro. I walked for about 1h and turned around at an altitude of 200m. Was higher at that point than the landing strip of the Airport. From there also, I had my first view back down over the valley and Playa Santiago. From there I returned to the hotel. The way I gained on height was ok with my fitness level. Going up in a steep angle as on El Hierro was not. I guess, I not just only am on a kind of vacation, but also am learning more about myself in regards of physical strength and what a 72-year-old can or can/should not do. On my way back I also booked dinner for 7pm at the Club Laurel beach restaurant. Later I walked to the Golf course to have as look at it. While having a beer at the terrace, I decided to play one round of golf on Friday. I made a reservation for 12:50. From the garden of the hotel there was an elevator to get me the 30m or so down to the sea level and to the Club Laurel. Had a simple meal there. Walked afterwards towards the village to get some further exercise before hitting my room for the night.

23.12.2021 Thursday / Playa Santiago to San Sebastian

A visit to San Sebastian was on the list today. Kind of the capital of the island. At 10:30 I started driving. Again up- and down-hill as well as crossing a ridge into the next valley. It’s the largest city on La Gomera with approx. 9.000 inhabitants. It’s also the port that cruise ships visit frequently. I saw a TUI ship moored there but first, on my way downhill, I had to watch the busses and the 4×4 that caried cruise ship passengers on their tours over the island. Seeing them I remembered while I did not enjoy cruises. The shape of La Gomera indicates it already. Roads go either up or down and are barely straight for more than 250m. That is much different than on El Hierro but the incline at least the same. On both islands the beaches were rare. Never sand but always gravel – if lucky. I have to say I did not enjoy the city. Don’t know why. I walked it, went to the geological museum, stepped into the church and visited the Mercado Muncipal. I also stopped for a coffee. Next was a visit at Playa de Ávalo. Passed the Parador and went along the slope towards another valley. Saw a huge new hotel development going on. Passed that one and saw an old development that was never finished, but still fenced in. A road was constructed that was partially opened up again now, to lay cables. Towards the end of the valley the regular road turned into one natural surface and quite some potholes. The beach itself full of pebble stones and larger boulders. Two Motorhomes from Switzerland “GR” were there. One built onto an IVECO 4 x 4 frame. 2 others were from Spain. No public water supplies nor wastewater handling facilities around. It was a wild beach with nice views onto Tenerife and the Tide but that was it. No green, no shade no kiosk. For me the noise of the waves breaking, would have driven me crazy over time. Back I went and from San Sebastian went on the GM-1 towards the Meseta de Hermigua https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hermigua and the Mirador del Rejo on CV-14 turning onto GM-2 on the way back to Playa Santiago the Mirador de Roque de Tajaque was next http://www.la-gomera.gequo-travel.de/sehenswert/aussichtspunkte-auf-la-gomera/mirador-de-tajaque

24.12.2021 Friday / Playa Santiago

It was a quiet day. I had made a reservation for 18 holes of Golf for 12:50. Before that, the only activities were breakfast, walking the village and looking at the Ermita de la Virgen del Carmen and purchasing 5 bottles of water in a supermarket.

At 12:30 a Mercedes EQV brought us up to the starter hut. Was a nice feeling and stylish. I was alone on that game. A flight of 2, 10 minutes in front of me and a flight of 3 with carts 20 minutes behind me. It was a beautiful day with blue sky and warm 24°C. There was a strong wind coming up the hill and I realized it once my first ball got caught by it. It flew straight and suddenly as if being hit a second time went right, into the bushes. The fairways themselves were nicely groomed, but on the sides, rocks and Volcano gravel between palms, colorful bushes, and such.  I found 3 balls plus mine plus some more over the length of the curse. Aparently ball cost is not that much of an issue here. It was a good game. I enjoyed it and had with the 2 that played in front of me a nice beer and a chat at hole 19. Dinner was today at the Hotel. I was too lazy to walk down to the village and beach. Buffet it was. But a good one. And they had Navajas my favorite shellfish. Unfortenatly they were not washed well and had to fight some sand while eating them. Had some sweet items at the end as well. All in all, it was a light fare.

25.12.2021 Saturday / Transfer Day Playa Santiago to Valle de Gran Rey

By 11am I was checked out and drove with my little Fiat uphill towards the top of the island and from there downhill into the next valley. Valle Gran Rey https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valle_Gran_Rey  http://vallegranrey.es/tourism-%f0%9f%87%ac%f0%9f%87%a7   has enough land for several small villages and the few Hotels and apartment buildings all in smaller design. Some stony beaches were there too. The hotel Gran Rey https://www.hotelgranrey.es/ was 3 stories high. Located at the Puntilla district close to the sea. Had booked the mountain side but got an upgrade for the sea view. I was affright the room would heat up over the day, but that was not the case. Playa de la Calera was the main center of the valley and busy with sunseekers. A bit further west on the other side there was a quieter beach called Playa de Inglés https://www.gomeralive.com/beaches-valle-gran-rey/   Due to being the 25th most restaurants were closed. Smaller and more tourist orientated sources were available. It was a bit also a meeting point for the alternative scene and its followers. The beach area is the beginning and end of several hiking routes. Always up or down. If this is not ones liking, the only alternative is, strolling along the beaches. I had a walk south along the beach towards Playa De Vueltas, to see what’s available. Restaurants existed there often no local food but foreign like also a German Ice Cream Parlor. Many also closed, some permanent. Often German but also English and French was spoken by passers-by. Not many hotels but more apartment buildings with shops and restaurants at the lower levels. For dinner it was a buffet at the hotel ☹I survived it.

26.12.2021 Sunday Valle de Gran Rey

I woke up with a funny feeling in my stomach and thought – not again. It hit me around 11am, well after a small breakfast. This time less intensive. Otherwise, my only activity was driving up to the Restaurant El Jape. A mixture out of a Bar, Restaurant and a tourist shop. I had purchased the other day a bottle of Palm Syrup https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palm_syrup and ordered a smaller package of Gofio https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gofio. This package of Gofio I wanted to pick up. Had paid for it already. It was not ready – what did I think 😊. I was offered to come again or just take a larger one and run. I choose the second option. Two plates of a clear chicken soup at 7pm helped soothing my stomach issue.

27.12.2021 Monday Valle de Gran Rey

My watch showed again a satisfactory sleep of 97% and I felt like it. Dressed up with my hiking gear and after a small breakfast I drove uphill to the parking area of Alto de Garajonay https://www.gomeralive.de/alto-de-garajonay and walk up 50m or so of altitude to catch some nice panoramic views. Saw all the islands Tenerife, La Palma & only El Hierro was fully covered by clouds. In 2012 the park was hit by a devastating fire. About 1/5 of the park was burned.  As a second walk, I had in mind to walk a short route from the Jardin de las Creces to the Raso de la Bruma. Passed through parts of the famous Laurel Forest (covers about 11% of the island) with all its mist and moos. Path went downhill. Came by 2 other viewpoints which gave me a bit of a different view angle onto the valley below me. But downhill meant also I had to go up again. Sufficient Oxygen for my lungs going up those steps was an issue. Once back at the car it was time for a late lunch. Drove again to the Restaurant Jape. Some German hitch hikers at the parking area approached me, if I would take them down to La Calera. I told them, lunch was first and if they had not grown roots once I was finished, I’d take them down with me. I wanted to get some local food and ordered grilled goat cheese. It came with a palm sirup – what else 😊 and with Maracuja fruit slices. I liked the taste. But I like any sweet – that might have been the reason. But I have to say, it did not have that penetrant goat aroma and I saw the brown grill structure on it. It could have been a mixed cheese🤷‍♀️. Second was called Garbanzos (chickpea) on the menu. It was like a stew and had some potatoes and some pork belly pieces included. The hitchhikers were gone by now and getting some Gasoline was next. If the car would not have been so low on gasoline I might have prolongated my tour today. I’ll do it tomorrow.

28.12.2021 Tuesday / Valle de Gran Rey – hike day

Twice and also yesterday morning, I had seen hikers on a trail going uphill, next to the small stream in the center of the Barranco del Valle Gran Rey, coming down the valley. Well, I can do that too I thought. After breakfast I dressed up and started. 550m in altitude and 2h later I was up at El Retamal. It had been a nice walk on a mostly natural path in a constant upward angle. Some steps in between where it was confirmed, that going up stairs, was not my strong side any more. Passed the nice-looking and well-maintained little chapel Ermita de los Santos Reyes https://www.guiarepsol.com/es/fichas/monumento/ermita-de-los-santos-reyes-15166/ . The area was reworked, walls repaired and painted, and some decoration and a stage indicated, that possibly a years end fest was going to be taking place. I had, as I looked earlier at the possible path on the map, learned that precisely where I hit the main road was a cooky bakery. I’s name – Laura’s Sweets 😊 I purchased a variation of different cookies in a stable plastic box. A reserve for future hungry moments to come. Of course, I had to try a few and all seemed to have about the same taste but different shapes. Doughs were slightly different, so was the firmness. Between crunchy and soft. The bus I had in mind to catch if possible was faster than I, therefore a walk down along the regular road followed. Came, before hitting the beach, by a collection of dense buildings with one busy bar full of alternative looking people of all ages. Hippies might be another word that describes them. Did not stop, went to the beach and opted for a BBQ Pizza. If its base would have been crisp it would have been a perfect Pizza🤷‍♂️What followed was a walk back to the hotel and a brief nap. No dinner today 😁

29.12.2021 Wednesday / Transfer Valle de Gran Rey to Hermigua

By 11am I was on the road to visit Alojera. I missed a turn as I had Google Map voice info on standby. Did cost me over the day at least 1:30h of additional driving but had nothing better to do anyhow. Vallehermosa Beach had a today empty pool, a building that was empty but could have included some restrooms etc. Going further North over boulders and volcanic rocks along the coast brought me close to the Castillo del Mar http://www.castillo-del-mar.com/pages/en/home.php?lang=EN  https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=castillo+del+mar+la+gomera&docid=608046109503865060&mid=A54B13B9BE9AB1E07BFCA54B13B9BE9AB1E07BFC&view=detail&FORM=VIRE . It looked abandoned. The structure, not save any more. The area I passed over the rocks actually was the leftovers of a landslide, as the wall of the cliff collapsed. I felt like the risk for this structure was unpredictable and after reading some info, feel the risk was judged just too high to keep it open and risk lives. Passed on the main road through Vallehermosa and back uphill. Came by the Restaurant  Los Chorros de Epina https://www.chorrosdeepina.com/chorros-de-epina/. Felt that it would, at the Terrace, provide some vistas, which was not the case, but the Cortado was good. Choose to have a Galleta with it. It was a “double-decker” with a layer of Dulce de Leche https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dulce_de_leche in between the 2 short crust tops. The cooky was a very positive experience. Not too sweet, only a thin layer of the Dulce de Leche and the dough did crack nicely. The wrapper stated its name Alfajores https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfajor  On my way I was again towards Alojera. Passed the Centro de Interpreacion Casa de la Miel de Palma https://casa-de-la-miel-de-palma.negocio.site/ I went further down hill to the Playa de las Salinas. Not much going on there. Next was Hermigua where my next hotel Ibo-Alfaro was located and that meant passing through Vallehermosa. This time I stopped in the center and was a bit surprised. It was larger than I thought and wondered why I had not checked it out better the first time. Many hikers gathered at the main place in the restaurants. So did I for a plate of albondigas (meatballs), canary potatoes and a beer at Bar/Cafeteria Central.  It was a curvy road but eventually I made it to Hermigua, found my hotel, keys with instruction at the entry door and let myself in. Took a brief nap, organized my things as I will stay for 7 days (minimum stay over the holiday period), did some washing and left the room again. Only to walk down into the village to check out the restaurants and to get a small bite and a beer. Thought that walking for dinner was not a bad idea. Going back up a bit slower, but some of the gained energy was already used to propel myself uphill.

30.12.2021 Thursday / Hermigua and vicinity

Breakfast buffet was well equipped and a team of 3 women kept it coming from the kitchen. Drove later towards Agulo https://lagomera.travel/experiencias/agulo/ and later turned left onto GM-1 going uphill to the Juego de Bolas visitor center https://www.miteco.gob.es/en/red-parques-nacionales/nuestros-parques/garajonay/guia-visitante/centros.aspx  It is operated by the Spanish environmental agency to provide information about the National Park. The buildings are placed in a nice botanical garden where the local plants are explained. Unfortunately, one of the two buildings was closed due to renovation. I knew that the Mirador de Abrante https://archello.com/en/project/mirador-de-abrante was close. Therefore, I stared walking along the road towards it. At one point I turned around. It was going all the time downward. Became suspicious about the whole situation as it was a viewpoint and how low would it be or would I have to go up again before reaching it. I choose to return to the car and drove to the Mirador. A good decision. The soil at the location was deep red and washed out by the rain. Not dusty at all. The structure of the Mirador is cantilevered over steep cliff. Very impressive. The glass floor allowed for a nice view straight down and onto the valley floor and Agulo. No incentives, besides the views, to stay longer. Drove back and had a Cortado at the Restaurante Juego de Bolas https://www.facebook.com/Restaurantejuegodebolas/ close to the visit center. Had thought over the past days about the Alfajora that I tried. Decided to go back to the restaurant I purchased it, to see if they knew more about it. I had searched, but not found, the manufacturer of it. Today as I drank another Cortado there and eat an Alfajora I learned it was from Tenerife. But knew no more details. It gives me something to do while I am on Tenerife in 6 days. On the way I passed a sign pointing to “Presa de Meriga” but opted not to take this sidestep.

31.12.2021 Friday / Hermigua

Slept for 9:25h. Kind of a record for me. The air here is good and at 200m cool at night. The shutters keep any light out and there is no car traffic close by. It was “hairday” and breakfast pushed back a bit. Took it easy altogether. No specific plan for today. Went by car to Agulo, parked and walked it. At the end I thought not a bad place to stay a week or two at a vacation home in the village with view onto the Teide and Tenerife. The Eagle Nest “Mirador de Abrante” was hanging over the village far up at the cliffs edge.  Came around a corner and heard some old well known German sailors song played by a guy with an accordion. Felt that I did not have to sit close to them and went on to another Bar to enjoy a Cortado and some quiet (sitting) time. On the back I turned towards the Hermigua beach area. At the end I parked, made some photos of some pillars in the sea. Apparently, remains of a former loading pier where the bananas were transferred from land onto boats. These days it’s not required any more. Even though still lots of bananas are grown, their way of transporting them has changed. I guess, these days they all go 18km on Lorry, to San Sebastian and its Harbour there. Leaving the beach area, I choose to drive up a very narrow local road on the left side of the valley. It provided new views and photo opportunities. Before returning to the hotel, I stopped at a bakery to get something small to keep me going until the end of year dinner at a local restaurant that I had booked already while being on El Hierro. Tried unsuccessful to have a nap and started writing my notes of the last 3 days that were by error eliminated. Lesson learned, never belief the system when it tells you it would synchronize the next time you are online. By 7:00pm I had changed into my better cloths and was at 7:30pm at the village at the Tasca Telémaco Restaurant http://tascatelemaco.com/ . A regular restaurant where I, via Hotel Reception, prebooked a set New Year’s Eve menu. Nothing special and I thought at the end, I could have done that too. It felt good to walk back up hill later and after some reading, I turned the light off just before 11pm.

01.1.2022 Saturday / Hermigua and vicinity

As every year, the world had not change when I got up at 8am. Just in time to join a WhatsApp call with my sisters. Breakfast followed and by 10am I was on route up hill to the Grande Laguna. During Breakfast, I looked at my guidebook searching for a hiking route where I could walk about for 2h with minimal ups and downs. The selected one was a nice walk through the laurel forest. Unfortunately, one section was closed off, and I had to walk for a large part back the same way I came. By now the Bar at the Grande Laguna was open and I could have a Cortado and time to make up my mind where to go next on a Saturday 01.01. and assumed everything closed. I choose to drive down to the sea level at San Sebastian, the capital of the island. It was my second visit, and my hope was due to its size, that Restaurants etc. would be open. First, I walked to the Ferry terminal to see where I should park my car when dropping it off there on Wednesday next week before returning to Tenerife. At the time of pickup, I was told to just park it with gas at the same level as I took it and put the key below the foot map.  Now I saw there were just free Rental car return spaces and the official visitor parking area that had to be paid for🤷‍♂️ I will call the fellow that gave me the car on Tuesday and ask the question about parking again. First, I was shocked as all restaurants I passed by, were closed. Until I came to the main place. There all residents must have gathered, Restaurants and such open and I knew I would get lunch😉 It was at Gastrobar, La Salamandra http://lasalamandragastrobar.com . I choose Pork Cheeks al Pedro Ximénez https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pedro_Xim%C3%A9nez , sweat potatoes and anise puree. It was very good, and the taste of anise was not very intense, which was a good thing for me. For dessert I choose yoghurt foam with passion fruit. The foam was more like cream, meaning thick, but it tasted fantastic. Those items would have made up for a very good New Year’s Eve dinner. A glass of good red from Ribera del Duero went with it. No meat without a good red😂 They also had a separate little ice cream parlor next door. There I took a Mascarpone Ice with me. Also very good. They had some Rewards displayed at the restaurant wall and correct so. A nice lunch to remember. I had to drive up and down again before reaching the hotel. A nap later I started to type my report of the day and wondered what I would do with the rest of the night.

02.1.2022 Sunday / Hermigua and vicinity

After another 09:25h of sleep and breakfast I went Northeast over a quite steep hill to the Playa de la Caleta https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attraction_Review-g674060-d6276853-Reviews-Playa_La_Caleta-Hermigua_La_Gomera_Canary_Islands.html aparently also a former banana, tomato and such transfer point onto a ship. As mostly a stony beach and not much going on. 2 or 3 camper vans were parked. I assume they stayed over night at this spot. Nice views onto the sea and Tenerife. As I went back 3 or 4 other cars came towards me. Lucky no big/fat once. Not much space to get out of each other’s way. At a Bakery/Café I stopped for a little Tartelette and a coffee. While enjoying both, I looked through my Gomera hiking book. Choose a route, that I felt comfortable with, but forgot to download the GPS file and later I had no more connection. As I found my starting point and walked for the first 30 minutes, I decided to not further walk along this path. It went up steep and forever. Knowing that at the other side of the valley I would have to go down and the same way back again, it did not feel right for me. Back to the car and through very small forestry roads I made it to the same spot where I originally wanted to walk to. Took some time there, walked and finally sat into the Bar Restaurante Camping la Vista https://camping-lavista.jimdofree.com/ . Had a huge and well-cooked filete de Pez Peto https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wahoo I tried to understand what camping here means. I saw some like shelter set ups. On the concrete floor 1 or 2 tents were set up. Caravans or such would not have made it through the small roads and forest canopy. Just read at the website that any sleeping overnight in any car is prohibited and tends the only solution. I had a plate of grilled tuna fillet with some salad and potatoes on the side. A beer felt right at that time too. By 5pm I was back at the hotel, grabbed a beer and sat on the terrasse watching the surroundings and the sun go down behind the valley. By 6pm I went up to the room, washed cloths and started to write my notes again.

03.1.2022 Monday / Hermigua / Tour-Bosque del Cedro to Hermigua

After yesterday’s attempt I realized that there was a hike downhill from just about the highest point back towards my hotel. The taxi came at 10:30 to pick me up. It was a shared ride, cheaper for me. We drove up to the drop-off pint for me at 1350m altitude. From there it was about 1200m downhill. During this tour I crossed all vegetational zones. From the cloud or laurel forest through the pine tree zone to the farmland. As the days before, it felt dry and the moos on the trees seemed not to be that thick and fresh as I saw it on El Hierro. But nevertheless, once one enters the forest zone by car, the lights have to be turned on as the branches, leaves etc. keep the sunshine out. The path surface first nice, soft and easy to walk. Still quite steep downhill. I also passed the Eremita Nuestra Señora de Lourdes. The doors were closed but it was kind of a meeting point of several groups and its noise level beyond what I felt comfortable with. Soon I was on my own again on the path and enjoyed the solitude. After about 5km or approx. 50% of the way it changed. Right after the Bar Restaurante Camping la Vista where I stopped already yesterday. I did so today and asked for their famous Potaje de berra (watercress soup) . Price – €4,50. I was here now the second time, and it was each time packed. No wonder at such prices and the only place around. It tasted very well and better than my soup at New Year’s Eve. From here the path became narrower and changed to rock in all forms, uneven layers, shapes and steps. Lots of steps. Steep sections and steps made it tricky to walk and not fall or break an ankle or even worse. Safety but speed was the priority. 3 times I was in danger to overextending my ankle. I was every time able to rebalance quickly and avoid any issue. As I got further down in the valley, the more tiered I became. Another key to accidents. At around 650 to 700m altitude the forest faded, and bushes and palm trees became dominant. I also saw what is called a cascade, but only little water poured over the cliffs edge and sled down along the mountain flange. At the end and I must assume, due to additional water sources, the little river made quite a noise as the water went downhill. It was collected in a large reservoir and some smaller once further down. Water tubes were laid along the path from here on and reduced the width of the available path. At the end I had to walk just about 2km next to the main road to get back to my hotel. The short distance at the end uphill was unusual for today’s path but kind of refreshing. 2 beers and 2 small bags of potato chips were my dinner for today. Followed by a Banana for desert 😊

04.1.2022 Tuesday / Last day at La Gomera

Last full day on La Gomera. After yesterday’s hike I was not in the mood to walk a lot. After breakfast I sat in my car and drove my favorite Roads. But first just about 2km up hill to the Museo Etnográfico de La Gomera https://museos.lagomera.es/museo-etnografico/ From here on through narrow, lots of bend and views. Passed through Agulo and soon turned left at Restaurante Casa Manuela onto CV-5. I drove by the Juego de Bolas and turned left, at the sign “Presa de Meriga”, that I had seen a few days earlier. At the appropriate parking I did get out of the car and stared to walk the only approx. 1,5km circular route around a manmade reservoir where still dead trees stocks could be seen sticking out of the water. I saw cut off trees that must have laid there for quite a while and I wondered, as I was walking in the Garajonay National Park. since a long time. Normally trees are not cut there. I asked a few workers I passed, as they had a break. The answer was, those trees were gum or eucalyptus trees. Not native, taking a lot of water and light off the other plants,……. , so they cut them. Once back at the car I followed CV-5, passed the Mirador de Lomo del Dinero & Mirador de Vallehermoso. Did not stop as photos were already taken the first time I was here. I kept driving until I reached GM-2 and turned left for approx.. 4km. At that point I turned right onto CV-3 downhill towards Alajero. There I stopped and stumbled across the Kiosko La Vega. It was at the central park right below the parking area. Everybody that had some sort of a break was there and having a drink. Me included. In addition, I ate a plate of chickpeas with some Salchichón pieces https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salchich%C3%B3n  in it. Tasted quite good. Had an ice cream afterwards and walked the village.  Next was Playa Santiago were my first Hotel – Jardin Tecina – was located. Had a Cortado and went on to San Sebastian wandered the center towards the Harbour found a public restroom and went on to look for a restaurant. My preferred one was closed, and the others were not that inviting. I decided to go back to the hotel and let the day come to an end. Had a beer on the terrace, went to the room and started to pack my suitcase.  

05.1.2022 Wednesday / La Gomera transfer to Tenerife

11:30 was the ferries departer time. That was still enough time to have breakfast and drive slowly towards San Sebastian. The weather had changed overnight. The fog needed for the Forest came in and covered the hills, but temperatures had dropped too. When driving over the hill humidity did cling to the front windshield and the wiper had to been activated. Out of sea, as I looked towards San Sebastian, the sun was shining. I also saw that another cruise ship had stopped at the port. It was again from TUI and named, as I could read later, Marella Explorer. It started its career 1996 as Galaxy for the Celebrity Cruises. Dropping off the car and standing in front of the ARMADA’s service widow took only 5 minutes. Had to exchange my internet receipt for a regular ticket. The ferry this time was the larger but not so sleek and fast, Vulcan de Taburiente. After 30 minutes wait, the gates were opened, and we could all walk towards the staircase. But before, I dropped off my heavy to carry suitcase, for me to pick it up again at the other side in Los Cristianos. During the cruise I looked again into the internet, to see if I could find a transport from the port direct to the airport, where I had to pick up my car. This was not the case and was later confirmed as I asked an attendant. I had lots of time before the official pickup time for my car, therefore I choose the most near the harbor, economical solution, instead of paying 30€ for a cab ride. I put my backpack on and pulled my suitcase for 30 minutes across the port and uphill to the central bus station. As I passed the fish stalls I asked one of the fellows about Navajas. He mentioned that he had none and generally not at the island, as they were either imported from South America or shipped in from Galicia. I choose to walk in the sunshade as here the sun was out for good. After a 20minute wait I entered Express bus #40, paid €3,50 and off it went in Express style🤔First time, for quite some years, Sixt offered the best rental rental car rate for the 7 days on Tenerife. Still much higher than 4 or 5 years ago, or even as on El Hierro and La Gomera, but they provided also better or newer cars. It had only 6000km on the clock while in El Hierro it had 63.000 and on La Gomera 48.000km – but for ½ the price. After 20 minutes, at around 3:30pm I left the Parking in a 4 door KIA Rio. I asked Google Map for a selection of restaurants as I wanted to get a late lunch. The first one was, as I learned 10 minutes later on a junkyard but with the best ratings. I did not give it a chance and went on. The second one was in a small kind of hamlet squeezed in between the motorway TF-1 and the sea. I was there just in time, before all the locals arrived. Food items were simple but filling. Had some appetite for a mixed salad and as it was stated on the board including Gambas, I was happy ordering it, just to get a potato salad with slices of gambas or the artificial copy of it 🤷‍♂️ The Gambas al ajillo were as expected. 30 Minutes after lunch ended, I arrived at my next destination La Finca el Pastel www.fincaelpastel.com . It sat in the midst of Farmland overlooking the coast with nice views. The most important communication with my contact over Whatsapp was about the question, as breakfast, due to the holy 3 king holiday, would only be provided at 11am, if I wanted to participate that late, or get a picknick bag. All day I could/did not want, to make up my mind until I checked in. It came to me that I had to write my notes for the last 3 days and I also had not made any plans of what to do and see on Tenerife.  Therefore, breakfast at 11 it was.

06.1.2022 Thursday (Holy 3 Kings Holiday) / Tenerife / Southwest

The Hotels location is in the Northeast of Tenerife at approx. 650m altitude. The weather today not the best and raining once in a while too. I, as it was a holiday, thought to go west to Puerto de la Cruz https://www.spain.info/en/destination/puerto-la-cruz , assuming the weather might be better. That was partially correct as it was at least warmer at sea level. Rain showers came and left. Lucky for me I was inside when it got stronger. I had not found a seat on the terrace of a Café and became lucky. As it started to rain suddenly, the once sitting outside earlier, had now to stand up inside😂I enjoyed there 2 slices of the Roscón de los Reyes con nata https://www.sincerelyspain.com/blog/2019/1/4/what-is-a-roscon-de-reyes-in-spain and a coffee. Like with Christmas, where the shops sell seasonal sweets already in September. Here it’s a specialty for the 6th of January which is the Holy Three Kings holiday. It can be purchased at any bakery already  4 weeks earlier. For the children, the bakers hide a little figure in it and the one finding it when eating becomes lucky (if one had not lost a tooth in full or partially). Well, I did not find anything, but after the second slice, I felt bad. But now after I satisfied my desires, I will bravely wait again 365 days for another slice or two 😊 Not knowing what to do, I remembered the Golf course I wanted to check on. Made a wrong turn. I stayed on TF-5, instead turning onto TF-42. Thereby I did not stay at sea level but had to go uphill. After the TF-5 I went onto TF-82 and then onto TF-423. TF-423 brought me downhill. And what a downhill drive it was. I had the fun driving down the steep angles. It did not frighten me and the serpentines I didn’t count. Lucky me, I did not encounter any oncoming vehicle. Suddenly I hit TF-42. That’s where the fun ended to fast. The Golf course I wanted to check out, was part of the Hacienda del Conde which belonged to Meliá Hotel Group https://www.melia.com/en/hotels/spain/tenerife/hotel-hacienda-del-conde-melia-collection/golf.htm . My Golf friends and I received an offer for a week of Golf at this location in February, but we agreed in the group, that we would not participate. It was quite pricy. I today, did not feel comfortable with what I saw. Thought about booking a round of golf but I will see if there is another golf course, where I feel more comfortable. On the way back, this time along the sea, I passed two nice villages first El Silo and second Playa Garachico. At El Silo I stopped for a walk. In Garachico, I just briefly stopped for a photos (a Rainbow out at sea). Could have spent more time there. By now it was time to think about dinner. I searched google map again and choose El Calderito de la Abuela http://elcalderitodelaabuela.net/ in Santa Ursula just east of Puerto de La Cruz. Veni, vidi, vici but as the door opened no table was available but the chef was so kind to direct me to another restaurant close by. Donde Mario http://www.dondemario.net/ Not yet open but a table at 7pm waiting for me. The 30 minutes I covered to visit a Bar, get a coffee and visit the restroom. Food at Donde Mario was perfect. A plate with 3 Zamburiñas and a Fish soup. As a desert I choose a creme of pistachio with bitter chocolate crumbles. I should have not had the desert. It laid a bit heavy in my stomach. The wine that went with my main dishes was a local white and recommendable if I would remember its name 😒By the time I left, it was pitch dark, raining slightly with a strong holiday traffic.

07.1.2022 Friday / Tenerife / Santa Cruz

At around 10:30 I was in the car and driving out of the parking lot. It was a brief 14km over the TF-5 Highway to Santa Cruz https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Cruz_de_Tenerife . It’s the islands largest city and capital with just above 200.000 inhabitants. While again foggy and wet at my side of the island, here it was “dryer” and occasionally, the sun came through. I parked at The El Corte Ingles Parking. I thought that possibly I might want to walk the food aisle before returning to the car. Their shops on the peninsula have pricy but nice fresh and canned food selections. The first goal was to visit the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África https://la-recova.com/ . I liked what I saw. Still a major shopping place for the locals with some eating/drinking options for locals and tourists. I was searching for shops to buy food items just before I going to the airport next Wednesday. Found one for the Cheese and for the Jamon. Later I went on to visit the Plaza de Plaza de Príncipe de Asturias. Passed the main shopping area in the historic Center. Even saw a streetcar in action. Was not aware of the fact they had one. Quite a few older houses for sale that would have to go through a rebuilding or renovation. The once already taken care off, were looking very nice with its historic facades. Stopped for a coffee and a biscotto at the Kiosko El Príncipe http://kioskoelprincipe.com/ As I strolled towards the Plaza de España I saw a 3-mast bark. It was the great Gorch Fock, a German Marine Training Ship https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_training_ship_Gorch_Fock_(1958) . Looking quite good after a 135€ Million renovation. It’s just about like new. 80% of its skin has been renewed. Due to Covid-19 infections on board it had been anchored here in Tenerife. For how long? As I am prove reading this 28.01. its moored there for about since 21 days. https://www.ndr.de/nachrichten/schleswig-holstein/Gorch-Fock-Keine-Ausbildung-der-Offizieranwaerter-moeglich,gorchfock2646.html But it was not the only one. The “Mein Schiff 4” had been forced to stop their voyage also here in Tenerife and for the same reason. I went on, dropped of a post card to my grandchildren, and slowly walked again toward the Mercado. I had in mind having lunch there. Found a seat got a glass of Albariño, 6 Zambariñas a la plancha, as well as 6 Langostinos. It made a good and satisfying lunch. From there I wondered to the El Corte Ingles, purchased some Galletas or Cookies and water and left again by car. Before going back to my place, I searched for Alfajores de Maicena. They are here mainly made or sold by Argentinean related shops. I had one on La Gomera and was hooked. Never found the same but those purchased now at K-Cero in Santa Cruz will do. They came in a nice stable plastic box and will be taken back to Germany. What followed was the normal evening activities before a good night sleep.

08.1.2022 Saturday / Tenerife / North

My location in Tacaronte was approx. 650m above the sea. Last time on Teneriffe I stayed at Hidalgo further North. I had no recollection about the landscape and started again after breakfast to first go west. I left the TF-5 at Puntillo del Sol and followed the main road going Northwest. I was surprised on the quality of villas I saw and especially driving through El Sauzal https://www.hellocanaryislands.com/places-full-of-charm/tenerife/el-sauzal , I felt like in California or Australia, where small single story shops and Trees/Palms, line up along the street and tables and chairs are placed on the sidewalks where people enjoy their drinks or just time and/or their existence. The churches I saw seemed to have been some sort of a template of the village churches I once saw in Middle- or South America. Definitely a place I like. Quite often I heard German spoken or as accent from Bar customers or by passers-by. I had a few stops along the route and took photos to help to ignite my memory in the future. Once I had passed at Hidalgo with its hotels etc., farm activities and such took over and were prominent. At the Punto del Hidalgo it was only farming and that to the edges of the transformed volcanic land. From there views towards the steep hills, the Anaga Mountains https://www.myguidetenerife.com/regionalinfo/anaga-mountains and the wild side of Tenerife, were clear and calling to be conquered. It’s for tourism a copy of El Hierro and La Gomera. It even has a laurel forest. Only a few larger villages and few roads cut through it. It’s a hikers and nature lovers paradise. Had in mind to play a round of Golf but I tend to chance plans and take a full day to explore that part of Tenerife instead. It will be cold, mostly in the fog or clouds but for sure it’s much more interesting, than going to the tourist centers in the south. As I thought about my further activities today, I decided to visit La Laguna and plan to have late lunch at Bodega/Restaurant Monje www.bodegasmonje.com/ where 3 years ago (Pre-Covid) Akiko and I participated in a Mojo workshop. The historic center of La Laguna surprised me. Nice historic homes just outside the historic center, houses kept in good condition and looked after. Narrow side streets only open for local traffic. The historic center was busy at 2pm with many smaller shops and restaurants open. Customers active shopping and meeting at the sidewalk tables having their tapas and pre-lunch drinks. Not sure on the majority of the facades. They looked also nice, but I was no sure if the rooms behind the windows were livable. But nevertheless, one realized that the city looked after itself and wanted to provide a positive impression. The large plazas and high trees matched well. The Cathedral was unfortunately not open. About 1h later I drove towards Monje’s location which was kind of next door to my hotel. It was busy, and I was told that the kitchen would close in ½ h. I ordered a crème of calabaza (chickpea) and a plate of meat from the black pork, cooked in el Horno – wood fired oven. Soup was too much. The meat only, would have been sufficient. 

09.1.2022 Sunday / Tenerife / North

Was thinking overnight and my interest to visit the Northwest and Northeast was so strong, that I, at 10:30 after the breakfast, went to La Laguna and from there on a really, really small and curvy road – TF-143, to Batan de Abajo. I stopped briefly, close to the Mirador del Escobón and walked up to it. At one point there was a nice view. Unfortunately, some trees or branches should be cut off. On I went to Batan de Abajo (It’s such a small hamlet, that I did not find a webpage, that makes sense to insert its link here). It was the end of the road. There was a small chapel, Ermita de la Virgen de la Candelaria, but the doors were closed and a few houses. The landscape indicated that farming must have been going on more intense as today.  Lucky, the Bar Mi Pueblo, was open. A Cortado at the bar and a banana to go later, I was in my Rio and going back uphill again to turn left on TF-12, stopped at the various viewpoints, where I was able to find a spot to park. Nice viewpoints, but not as impressive as the once on El Hierro or La Gomera. I followed the TF-12 until San Andrés at the Northeast coast. It was fun driving, and I was ready to slow down and look for some lunch. At Google Map I selected Restaurante Rincón del Pescador. As I arrived no table was available, and I was asked to return in 40 minutes. I went to a Bar nearby, had a beer in the sun and returned in time to the restaurant. Just to learn that I had to wait some time more. As I waited, I checked the menu and realized a translation error. The Zamburiñas XL were translated as Hamburguer XL. Later I did get ahold of the boss and told him about it. His issue was also that they sold it to him as small scallops. But, they were Zamburiñas. He can change it to whatever he wants. At least he is aware of it. I had several pan seared pieces of fish with some tomato slices in vinegar with palm syrup. Tasted very well. The dessert I choose was Polvito Uruguayo😋. Here a similar recipe https://lincsflavours.wordpress.com/polvito-uruguayo-caramel-cream-meringue-delight-thingy . It consisted of heavy whipped cream on a thin layer of dulce de leche. The cream mixed with smaller merengue pieces also as powder and some liquid dulce de leche or south American caramel sauce. I will remember this dessert. After taking a wrong turn on the way back, I choose to take small and curvy roads again. Passed a Bar/Cafeteria and opted for a Cortado leche y leche. Sweetened condense milk at the bottom and a bit regular milk on top of the coffee. I also got a vanilla ice cream cone to go. 15 Minutes later I was in my room.  Now its 3h later, but I did some TV watching on the side 😁

10.1.2022 Monday / Tenerife / Southwest

Had 4 days ago made a reservation for the Cueva del Viento https://cuevadelviento.net/en/the-cave/ By 12:15pm I was at their parking. No backpack allowed, a weatherproof jacked and hiking shows were preferred to be worn during the visit. At 12:45 the tour began with an introduction and some background and basics about volcanic activities. The entrance was off site and required a 5minute Van ride and a 20minute walk. During the walk the guide provided further details about this specific lava tunnel. Also a sky hole was shown. Guarded by a metal fence and a strong wooden cover. The entrance was locked with a heavy gate. Some 60 years ago a women fell as the tunnel ceiling collapsed. They were able to rescue her and filled, over a period of 3 months, the cave underneath with lava rocks. In the 90’s the sky hole was investigated. It took them 6 months to remove the filled in volcano rocks. In the process the lava tunnel was prepared to be opened for the public. During our walk today I saw some marks. Aparently, they go in once a month and take measurements of the sealing and do some risk analyses to see if something changed, respectively it’s still safe to have the tunnel open to the public. As we were driven back to the office, the guide provided some general  information about Tenerife and local here especially he mentioned Barraquito which is a coffee with a shot of liquor https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barraquito and a new service called Guachinches  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guachinche . From there I decided to drive further into the Teno Mountains towards Santiago de Teide. Back to TF-5 for a brief time and then I turned left onto the TF- 373. Again, a wonderful road to drive, if you enjoy driving. Before I reached Santiago, I turned towards Masca on TF-436. I was looking for a specific Cafeteria with a view. The road was very busy. Also with busses. Here driving was no fun. To have a bus pass a pacing place was required otherwise one had to go back. I turned around and stopped at the Mirador de Cherfe https://www.hellocanaryislands.com/viewpoints/tenerife/cherfe-viewpoint at about 1.100 m altitude. There was a Food truck. It served various food items. I choose Croquette and a serving of Empanadas, both homemade. I also, as I had to wait, showed him a photo my friend Antonio had sent. It showed a nameless viewpoint with an iconic rock in the backdrop. I asked the fellow if he knew the place and sure he did. Its name was Mirador La Cruz de Hilda. From there I went back the same way as I came, got gas and enjoyed later the 2nd Croquette with a beer I had in my fridge.

11.01.2022 Monday / Tenerife / South / Teide

Todays first stop after breakfast was Puerto de la Cruz. Had to find some souvenirs for my grandkids. Walked the historic center, found what I was looking for and left towards Mirador La Cruz de Hilda. I had a certain route in mind but once laid out on the smartphone I did not realized Google again changed my will and routed me over the fasted route. It’s the settings I have on the phone but always as in such a case forget about it. Just as I took a photo of the valley with Santiago de Teide at the end I thought I had seen this vista before. 2km later it was confirmed as I saw the building activities, to get some new stretch and some tunnels been built for the TF-1 highway. This time traffic was low. Very few cars and just one bus before I reached Masca. No parking available so I went on and found one at Mirador Cruz de Hilda https://www.komoot.de/highlight/683589 approx. 1.370m altitude. I was lucky there –was early and found a free table on the Terrace. Got a plate of sliced Tomato that were loaded with some grated smoked local goat cheese and a vinegar & Miel de Palma mixture on it. Had a beer and took some photos from this side onto Masca https://www.hellocanaryislands.com/places-full-of-charm/tenerife/masca/ . Masca is famous for its Barranquo (Gorge) and hike to the beach. It was just reopened after a rework of the path and unfortunately only open from top to bottom. The quay, that earlier allowed boats to drop of passengers and them to hike uphill and return by bus, was not open. I got lucky a second time, as I was able to park on an official parking spot in an official marked Car Park. I walked out to a cliff below from where the hiking track down to the sea throig the Gorge started.There I just got myself a Barraquito  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barraquito and later uphill again an ice cream Cornetto to go. I should have sign posted I would auction off my parking spot 😁 I returned towa de Teide, I passed the Mirador de Cherfe, and the Food truck was there again. Passed through San Sebastian de Teide and on to the Playa San Juan https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playa_San_Juan After having investigated the place a bit as I am writing my notes I must have been stopping at the wrong place. I just saw volcanic rocks at the beach. It was not inviting. But further along the coast there was actually a beach where swimming was possible. San Juan is set up as a beach town and I was wondering as I saw the rocky beach. I thought what are they all doing all day long, not having a beach. After another Cortado I had to think what to do. Concluded that I might go up over the Teide and down at the other side to my hotel. Once at higher altitudes it looks like the moon. The roads are cut through cooled down lava streams and at its highest levels one could think being on the moon. When I was at the top, the visitor center and the Parador were at 6pm closed. The Parador permanently. I went on, waited at a viewpoint not far off the base station of the funicular, for some sort of sundown and went back to El Sauzal and the Restaurant Casa Odón https://ismaelgalancho.com/restaurante-casa-odon that was recommended to me earlier. I saw Mushrooms on the menu and without further delay ordered a ½ plate of mixed mushrooms without asking what and how…… . Well, it was a truck load of different mushrooms, breaded, sautéed and also in a meat sauce. Totally off, from what I imagined as I ordered it. About ½ of it I had to return.  No chance to eat them all. At the Teide it was just about 2°C my throat hurt, and my nose ran. Had 2 cups of chamomile tea with my food. Later at the room no energy left to write my notes. All of it must have been focusing on taking care of these mushrooms.

12.01.2022 Tuesday / Tenerife / Return to Stuttgart

I took it slow and left late at 11am. Went to Santa Cruz, parked at the Port, dropped off 2 birthday cards at the post office and walked on to the Mercado. There I purchased 200gr of Jamon de Bellota, around 500gr. of various cheeses and 6 unwrapped Alfajores. Before I went back to the car I went downstairs to the fish and seafood section, to enjoy 6 Zamburiñas as an early lunch. No alcohol though, just water. From there on to the car. Stopped once for gas and dropped it off at the rental place. Lucky me I had an insurance that covered some scratches that happened at a rough parking on the side of the road where parking was not practically, valid or possible. Had not been aware of it until 2 days ago. From here on all was uneventful, besides that when I checked in for my flight and asked about my hiking poles, they said I should not worry and take them onboard. Security had another understanding and therefore, having still sufficient time, I went back down, dropped them off at the check-in and went back up again, through the whole security procedure.  As I arrived late at the evening, I had a friend which runs a Taxi, pick me up to get me home.

While emptying my backpack I found my bag, with the Alfajeros purchased at the market . They were totally crumbled. No reason to not eat them – right away😁

Now, I do have the pleasure again, to proofread my text at least 100 times (it really feels like that) and add the forgotten little details and happenings. It helps me, to not forget about them and will be reminded on them again, when reading it in a few years. Having had my larger camera with me means I have to go through 2.184 photos and delete maybe 50% and then select the worthy once for my notes above.

In General

After having started at El Hierro I was spoiled when arriving at La Gomera or Tenerife. With only an inhabitance of around 12.000 and a landscape and views to die for. Its Laurel cloud forests larger and well intact than at the rest of the canaries. Slow pace, nice people, and no large numbers of Tourists. If any, the once that like hiking or nature etc.-….. Largest Hotels are, if I am not wrong the once I stayed in, with each around 40 to 50 rooms. There are many restored houses and apartments that are rented out to tourists. They are marked with Signs “Vv” =  Vivendas Vacacional” https://tenerifeguru.com/tourist-rentals-vivienda-vacacional in all of the canary islands.

Looking back, it was like a shock to me, when I arrived at La Gomera and staying in a 400 room Hotel filled with Tourists. It took me at least a week until I had made peace with the situation, and it would not be fair to write about La Gomera in such a mood. Today around 23.000 live on the island. Saw quite a few people with an alternative lifestyle selling handmade jewelry or other items in the larger vicinities. Mostly in San Sebastian and the beaches in Valley Gran Rey. Also overheard comments such as Question: “Can you get me 2 aubergines later today? – Answer: Not today but tomorrow morning” A German woman, talking to a local, at the terrace of a bar. She dressed more like living here than visiting. She seemed to have been known and here for longer and with set up contacts to the local gardeners as suppliers – tax free I assume 😊. I also enjoyed my time on Tenerife. But I stayed away from the tourist hot spots. It was a different vacation there than on the other 2 islands. I have to say that I had some apatite for more. It might well be, that I will return, to spend some time again also on Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote and possibly La Palma. But this time maybe just 10 days at each island🤷‍♂️ If I additionally could get a flight or bunk bed on a ferry towards Madeira that would be perfect.

About the Spanish conjugation verb book I purchased on my second day. I did not look at it more than once or twice – shame on me 😢

Keschdeweg Hiking Tour 22.10. – 25.10.2021

The Word Keschde is a Palatine dialect and means Chestnut. The planting of the trees goes far back as to roman times but also  Kaiser Heinrich II https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_II,_Holy_Roman_EmperorBavarian and later King Ludwig I https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_I_of_Bavaria helped spreading the trees in that area. It runs North-South parallel to the west along the German Wine Road https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_Wine_Route#:~:text=The%20German%20Wine%20Route%20or%20Wine%20Road%20%28,of%20Rhineland-Palatinate%2C%20the%20route%20was%20established%20in%201935.  Wine, the other highlight here. One food specialty is called Saumagen. It means „sow’s stomach“ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saumagen Did not have the pleasure of eating it yet but am sure, that that will change during this hike.

22.10.2021 Friday / Hauenstein to Annweiler/Trifels

My friend Willy joined me again for this trip. We met at the train station and at 7:59 the train should have left. It was 10 Minutes late, but it had no negative effect for the rest of our train trip to Hauenstein https://www.urlaubsregion-hauenstein.de/en/hauenstein  We had to change trains 3 times. The last one was a diesel driven railbus. Some fog was still in some river valley sections. The Hauenstein train station was about 1km outside the village. In Hauenstein the German Shoe Making Museum, http://www.museum-hauenstein.de/schuh_museum/Technik/Englisch/ is located. For us it was the official starting point of our hiking tour. It is called Keschdeweg (Chestnuts Way) https://www.keschdeweg.de/de/keschdeweg/wegbeschreibung In total it’s about 65km long. There are 4 sections. Today’s section was approx. 11 km long. At the end it felt like 30km. Pain in all parts of our bodies. All day long it was quite chilly and also humidity was still in the air, but it stayed dry. The leftovers of storm Ignaz were still with us with strong winds. The natural and soft paths were often covered by ripe chestnuts and its housings. I thought they were quite small compared to the once I eat in the past during autumn and Christmas seasons. Its peel or housing, had many more pinpoints than the Horse Chestnuts of which we have lots around Stuttgart. It hurt just to pick them up. Even the once open did not allow for easy removing of the actual fruit. A lot of ups and downs for us today and it will be like that for rest of the in total 4 day hike. During the last km of today’s stage, we had the first sight of the Trifels Castle. The castle was for a short period the place where Richard I was held prison until April 1193. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trifels_Castle

We were both happy to have reached Annweiler am Trifels https://www.annweiler.de/de/index.php Once checked in, we both laid down and slept for 1 1/2 h – tribute for getting up early and not been in the best shape for such a hike. We did the training on the job 😊. Our Hotel Zum alten Wasserrad https://zum-alten-wasserrad.de was in an old Mill building which also included the Pizzeria L’Antica Rutoa were we had dinner, which included of course for each of us a Pizza and a tomato salad. By the time we were done with it, it was dark, and we refrained from walking the village, as tomorrow we would pass through it anyway.

23.10.2021 Saturday / Annweiler to Albersweiler

We both had a very good night sleep. The breakfast buffet was appreciated. Today’s path was around 18km in total. The trail guided us through Annweiler and its historic center. The whole region was until some years ago, heavily involved in the shoe production. Therefore, the streams were al channeled to have the water and its energy to drive its mills and in other cases to create electricity. In Annweiler the Tanner seemed to have been most prominent. While I was planning for the hike, I realized that the straight road distance between Annweiler and Albersweiler was only 5km. But our hike section 18km long. One can imagine what kind of twisting and winding track we had to go today. Soon we reached the hilly section and up we went. In the description of today’s trail, it was stated as difficult and good condition required. Not really my specialty after yesterday’s experience. A better-balanced packed backpack and a better fixation on my body provided at the end a positive experience. The steep ups and downs slowed our forward motion. The mostly natural surface of the paths in the forests were soft to our feet. Today we also walked briefly through vineyards. At those moments also with nice views into the Rhine valley towards Karlsruhe and behind it – the Black Forest. Today’s weather was as yesterday, but without the wind. We had dressed up a bit warmer and were now sweating due to the uphill sections for quite some time, before we arrived at Eschbach http://eschbach-pfalz.de/?page_id=9 Its residents have a historic nick name: Esel or Donkey. 38 sculpters are displayed within the village. Prominent located above Echbach is the Madenburg Castle https://www.southernwineroute.com/travel-adventure/sights-attractions/castles-palaces/infosystem/Madenburg_Eschbach/infosystem.html    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madenburg_Castle

We walked straight towards the first wine restaurant – Restaurant Madenburg https://www.tripadvisor.de/Restaurant_Review-g1586615-d9559183-Reviews-Restaurant_Zur_Madenburg-Eschbach_Baden_Wurttemberg.html with a sunny table on its terrace. And here, I had for lunch, my first Saumagen experience. The preferred meal was 2 slices of Pfälzer Saumagen with Kraut and a slice of bread on the side. Both items as to the season with Chestnuts integrated. I enjoyed it but understand now, that it’s not much different to a meat loaf. I guess some different spices and herbs etc. but same or very similar proceeding in the process of creating them.

The lunch sat heavy but was well received and helped to propel us uphill again. About 2/3 of today’s path was on forest tracks. The rest was on paved tracks passing through vineyards. Once during a challenging forested uphill section, I lost contact to Willy and at a junction went along the path indicated by my electronic map. Of course, it was not following the official route. We met us again eventually after a phone call. During this event I met a fellow, that was collecting Chestnuts, and had to ask him why those chestnuts were so small. I just knew the large ones which are called Maronen. Well it’s a different variety https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castanea_sativa  of Chestnut as I know now. The once here are boiled and/or roasted. Eaten in a soup or together with other vegetables. In our Saumagen and Sauerkraut for example they also included those small chestnuts. It gave them a different bite. A slightly different, but pleasant taste. Once at the train station at Alberweiler we had a 45 minutes wait time and another 14 mites later we reached Landau https://www.landau-tourismus.de and walked only an add. 5 minutes to the Parkhotel https://www.parkhotel-landau.de/en/. It was with €156 the most expensive hotel we stayed in during our hiking and biking tours. Due to the weekend, we did not find a place to stay in at any of the villages. Today and tomorrow, we must ride the train to get to our booked hotels. After a 2h break, licking our wounds and taking a shower, we left for dinner to a Greek restaurant called Olympia https://olympia-landau.de/ . It was recommended by the hotel reception and the 15minute wait time was proof of its quality. Once inside we realized who drank all the drinks we had seen been carried from the bar into the restaurant. We were guided into a basement seating area. Nice renovated and decorated, but for us, we did not want to think, how in an emergency upstairs, this part could be evacuated. We did also not feel any air exchange. Only the passing waiter was circulating any. All tables filled, people squeezed in. By any means, if I would fall sick on Covid, this would be the place I had picked it up. Food was fine and several beers later we returned safe and satisfied to our hotel for an earned good night’s sleep.

24.10.2021 Saturday / Albersweiler to Villa Ludwigshöhe

3°C as we waited for the train at the Landau train station. Some other folks in front of us in the line were barefoot🤷‍♂️ I could not imagine walking barefoot on any on the surfaces we walked during the last days even more so at 3°C🥶 We did not exit the train at the same time. I would have liked to see them from behind walking on rubble or a crushed stone surface.

Albersweiler was one of the smaller wine villages along the hike. A main street cutting it in half. For us we just passed through and again it went uphill – but in a nice way. Today, looking back, it was a comfortable walk for me. Not so for Willy as he told me later. It was a mixed path again today. For some time we walked at the edge of the forest with nice views into the Rhine valley and along the German Wine Road https://www.tripsavvy.com/german-wine-road-1520197 with its, some time volcanic looking hills, and the vineyards. The views int the far were unfortunately not that clear but with humidity in the air and kind of whitewashing the colors and the shapes. Around lunch time we hit what looked like a nice old historic building and Restaurant. We entered through the gate and hoped for a beer and some small food item on the terrace. Wrong we were. Terrace was closed and inside we realized it was some sort of finer restaurant which by chance did have a table for two available. The way it was presented and the fact that a large menu was €45 without the drinks we said thank you for the offer, but no.

A Sunday today and consequently all the once filing the hotel rooms and pensions were out and about. All having again their cotton bags in one hand and searching for chestnuts with the other. Most people seamed to be lazy. 80 or so% were flocking close around car parks which were overflowing. Poor villagers. They better stay home because if not there might not be any parking left for them. Later in the hike we hit a hut that must belong to a local or social club. Neatly just waiting for us to stop for lunch. It stated entrance on your own risk and we took it. Out of sight for most meaning we heard some of the others, but no one dared to join us. Lunch and break for our legs and feet was brief but sufficient to recover. On a section of today’s path with possibly 0.5 to 1km length wooden miniature animals, houses and fantasy structures were displayed. Much to the enjoyment for families and of course younger kids. https://www.pfalz-mama.de/weyher-mit-skulpturen-poussieren/ The end of todays stage was at Villa Ludwigshöhe https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Ludwigsh%C3%B6he    https://www.burgenlandschaft-pfalz.de/de/schloss-villa-ludwigshoehe/    https://www.pfalz-info.com/edenkoben/schloss-villa-ludwigshoehe-23664/ From here we went down hill for around 5km until we were at the train station of Edenkoben https://edenkoben.de/  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edenkoben to catch a train to Neustadt/Weinstrasse https://www.neustadt.eu/Tourism-Wine/wine-culinary-/ and our hotel for our last night during this hike Hotel Palatina www.hotel-palatina.com  The first Hotel where to wear a mask was not a must. If the state law of Rheinland-Pfalz was interpreted correct or not? It was located just about 300m from the train station, newly renovated and with a Pizzeria that we choose to eat at as we both felt further walking and searching for something else was not an option.

25.10.2021 Monday / Villa Ludwigshöhe to Neustadt/Weinstrasse

Again, a chilly night with blue skies with some clouds in the forecast. Schedule was as before and by 09:30 we arrived again at Edenkoben and waited for the organized Taxi. It brought us back uphill and dropped us off next to the Villa Ludwigshöhe. We wanted to safe our energy for the forward movement, not for any uphill battle 😊 Soon we passed the lower station of the Rietburgbahn https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rietburg_Chairlift  https://rietburgbahn-edenkoben.de/index.php#fahrzeiten-from-page . In no time are the passengers up at the top enjoying the views from north to south of the Rhine valley. At this time of the days it was no option for us. We went straight into the forest and followed the narrow track. Just as we approached St. Martin we came by the local Lourd Cave https://www.wunderkraeuter.de/reise-_und_freizeittipps/deutschland/sankt_martin-pfalz/mariengrotte/?id=6  As we passed St. Martin up in the vineyards we came by a self service hut with wine and water in a fridge. Outside were some tables with chairs. All was part of the Hotel Arens 327mNN. A nice way to make some money and without any cost and serve the hikers that did not look for a restaurant and had their food with them – as I did. The White tasted well. Especially the second glass😁 By now it had not yet turned 12 o’clock. On we went and about 1h later we saw Castle Hambach on a hill in front of us https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hambach_Castle    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hambach_Festival . Still a bit to walk until Neustadt and from now on mostly on concreate in the vineyards and next to the main road. The train from Neustadt to Karlsruhe added up some delay but we made the transfer in time. By 18:50 we arrived in Stuttgart and 30 minutes later Willy and I were back home.

I enjoyed this trip. It gave me a new insight into neighboring areas worthwhile visiting in the future. Besides nature there are also lots of museums and historic sites to visit. The shoes made from leather, that were made there, carried a lot of important people. Further Northeast, it was the steel industry of which its structures are the only thing left to show. It was fun to see the families use their free time to collect the chestnuts like in the old days and make use of them with the old recipes. I enjoyed the trip, but at the same time it made me think. We are at a time of great changes again. Combustion engines are being replaced by electric motors. Electronics are boon and bane at the same time. I just hope that in 100 or 200+ years it will be the same fun for the kids to collect those chestnuts 🤞

Moselle Bike Tour Metz to Koblenz

14.9. Tuesday / Stuttgart – Metz

I met with my friend Willy at 07:30 near the train platform 9 from where the IC Train to Karlsruhe left just after 8am. Once the train moved in, we selected our car and found the reserved space for our bikes. We choose the available seats next to them even though we had reserved once on the second floor.

In Karlsruhe we had only 12 minutes for the change of trains. All went well and the reginal train left for Offenburg on time. There we had the options of using our bike to ride to Strasbourg or take advantage of the TER train running between the two cities. I booked while on the train 2 seats for us but was not sure how to get the space/tickets for the bikes reserved. Later at the train station, the line in front of the service station was not short enough to after having spoken to the personnel to still catch the train again. As I walked back, I passed another bike rider and asked him about the bike situation. He stated, that would not be an issue as from 9am on, the bikes were for free on the train. Therefore, when the time came, we loaded our bikes and took a seat. The tickets were checked, and no one asked about the bikes. 30 minutes later we stepped off the train and walked to the platform (using an elevator) for the train to Metz. This was the last step of our train ride today. After our arrival it took just 10 minutes on our bikes, and we were entering the hotel reception of the Hotel Kyriade. As the French take their lunch hours seriously, we had lunch at the small terrace before we got to our rooms. Later we zigzagged through the historic inner city of Metz. For dinner we choose the Restaurant L’Edcalier,  https://m.facebook.com/lescaliermetz   https://www.instagram.com/lescalier_metz “L’Angus Tigrou” was for both of us our choice. Angus Beef Tagliata with “Tigrou” (spicy) a very tasty white sauce. My meat was a bit sinewy, but eatable. The wine from the bottle of Cote du Rhone went well with it. As predicted the clouds moved in slowly. We hope for still dry weather for tomorrow.

15.9. Wednesday / Metz (F) – Perl (D)

We left at 09:30. The streets were drying up from the rain that passed through overnight. Rain was in the forecast for most of the day. We were dressed accordingly. As we had crossed the city and were on our path towards Thionville, it started to drizzle. It stayed with us on and off. We stopped just short of Thionville where we saw the Uckange Steel Plant that has been shut down. The structure is actually been converted into a steel manufacturing museum or monument https://www.erih.net/i-want-to-go- https://www.erih.net/i-want-to-go-there/site/blast-furnace-u4#:~:text=Blast%20furnace%20U4%20is%20a%20rusty%20fossil.%20The,to%20keep%20it%20in%20existence%20lasted%2015%20years. the office buildings are been converted or renovated, as an example to be a center for new IT and Digital developments. At Thionville we stopped and opted for a beer over lunch. Without eating we pressed on. Soon we saw in the distance a huge power complex. It was the nuclear Cattenom nuclear power plant. We counted 4 reactor blocks

https://www.edf.fr/de/la-centrale-nucleaire-de-cattenom/das-kernkraftwerk-von-cattenom

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cattenom_Nuclear_Power_Plant. Not much later we saw the first vineyards. Toward the end of today’s stage, as we came closer to the village of Schengen it started to rain hard. We decided not to visit the “Schengen Museum” https://www.visitschengen.lu/en but pass over the Moselle and go straight up the hill to our hotel Hammes http://www.hotel-hammes.de. It took some time before the rain stopped. It gave us time to do our homework. The restaurant of our Hotel Hammes was closed today. Before we went into the center for dinner, we sat, after having walked the little village, at a local kebab place and had a beer. The day ended after a beer or two and some pizza with a red Italian wine at Pizzeria Venezia  www.ristoranteveneziaperl.de . Before the day ended we also had booked an apartment for one night at Boardinghouse Morbach in Morbach https://www.boardinghouse-morbach.de for the stay on Friday.

16.9. Thursday / Perl – Trier

It was chilly this morning at around 10°C. We left after breakfast at 09:45. Rolling downhill most of the time. Once at the Moselle bridge again (still on the German side) we saw German Customs that had organized a dragnet checking point for drivers entering Germany over the bridge coming from the Luxemburg side of the river. After having crossed the Moselle bridge, we took a brief look at the EU Museums there. Willy had a wakeup call as he did not expect a road where he was, and squeaky car and lorry break noises woke him up. But by any means, he would have had quite a strong legal position, as the lorry driver too, did not expect a driver shooting out of the gully from his right. Further we went uneventful along the river on paved bike paths either along the Moselle or the road. Very few km on the road. Unfortunately, just before noon, a flat tire stopped my activity for 30 minutes. Once back riding, we stopped at a Bar/Restaurant called Queens just about 200m short of the Luxemburg/German Border. A beer and 2 Flammkuchen as well as a few phone calls later, trying to organize a hotel for Saturday night, we left again towards Trier reaching it 45 minutes later as we stopped at our Hotel Ibis Style right in the heart of the City. The check-in was troublesome. Lots check-ins and papers to fill in and sign due to Covid etc. After 45 Minutes we left again and walked the inner historic city.

We had concluded that it was better to get a hotel for 2 nights at our end point for this trip in Konstanz. We then would, as we had done during other trips, shuttle to and from Koblenz from the point we stopped before. To get the tickets, we walked first to the Trier-South train station which was not manned. Then to the Main Train station which was not offered/indicated by Google Map when searching for the closest train station. About 1:30h and 4km later we purchased the tickets for the train rides for tomorrow and Sunday. No beer until now we had to have one just outside the train stations. As train stations are it was not “a national but international” neighborhood. But even here they were searching for Service help at the kebabs and such. The Covid shutdown had people move out of the service industry. We enjoyed our beers, were not in the mood for the “local” food and walked back into the center. While doing so we passed public Sculptures installations from Frauke-Wilken https://www.frauke-wilken.de/ We also looked at the main touristic highlights with the historic roman background Porta Nigra https://www.trier-info.de/en/places-of-interest/porta-nigra being one of them https://www.trier-info.de/en . Reaching the center, we were greeted by a wine stand with lots of people enjoying after-work drinks. So did we – actually 2. By then it was dark and the center empty. I remembered the restaurant behind our hotel. It was called L’Osteria a Franchise restaurant https://losteria.net/de/speisekarte/pizza  When entering the site having been checked for the vaccination certificates, I asked what they are famous for. The girl said – for large Pizzas. When asked: also the best? She stumbled. As I passed a couples table fighting their gigantic pizzas, I had to ask if that was the standard size? And she replied -yes 😨 We ordered each one anyway. It took a while but ate all of it.

17.9. Friday / Trier / Morbach

The air was as predicted, brisk. A light jacket while riding was my preferred solution. We continuously rode close to the river until around 12:30 when we stopped at Piesport https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piesport  We stopped at a nice location with a sunny sky, for a light lunch at the Restaurant of the Lehnert-Veit Winery  https://lehnert-veit.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral  the bottle of white we tried was good. With it went an onion cake https://mygerman.recipes/onion-cake-zwiebelkuchen and later some rolls with cream cheese. As we wanted to leave, Willy realized that his rear wheel was loose. Once tightened he also had to adjust the inner gear change which took a while. But after that we went on with our tour and today that meant going uphill for the next 22km or so until we reached Morbach a small city in the Hunsrück https://www.hunsruecktouristik.de/en/discover-the-hunsrueck/nature First it went steep up through the vineyards and later on regular road continuously and steady up hill

At the end, today’s stage was 70km long. The capacity of our batteries dwindled rapidly. I had in the past not gone uphill for that long with only 23km left on battery. I used the lowest e-motor support to cover the distance. The bikes display showed only2km distance left once we reached the apartment. Willy had an easier solution. For the first time he had a spare batterie with him. His bike of older age uses more energy as mine and his solution was a spare batterie. Midst uphill battle he changed it and off and away he was again😂

Our Apartment https://www.boardinghouse-morbach.de/en/apartments.html was sort of a high-end, one bedroom, Penthouse (100m²) with 2 large, equipped terraces. The fridge was filled, so was the coffee machine. We refilled respectively paid for what we used. It was restaffed while servicing the apartment. Willy had opted for the sofa bed, I was occupying the regular bedroom. We purchased some small food/drink items at a grocery store across the street. For dinner we walked into the village center and choose Wirtshaus zum Dorfkrug https://www.dorfkrug-morbach.de/ a regular local restaurant. A large group of guests arrived before us and the wait we were told would be 45 minutes – at least. With some drinks we covered that time but by then it became chilly on the terrace, so we opted to move inside. I enjoyed my beef cheeks with green beans and French fries.

The booked appartement was the consequence of not having found a single hotel with any bed arrangements along the Moselle, at a price we were willing to pay. It was high season for the wine valleys here. Lots of tourists from all over Europe were visiting by car, on foot or bicycle. River cruise vessels were also on the Moselle again as well, carrying each 2-300 passengers.

18.9 Saturday / Morbach – Bullay

We when going upstairs saw some ear plugs and wondered. Later we realized that Morbach was direct in line of the takeoff path for the planes starting at the Hahn Airport. But we slept deep and well and did not have to use these ear plugs.

We just had two cups of coffee each before we packed up and settled our bikes to go on with our trip. The sky was blue but the air crisp. That did not bother us at the beginning. It went first again some uphill before we could let it run downhill for 15km or so. As we passed the hill in front of us we had a good view and saw the fog I the valleys. Not much later we were in the fog too that kept the sun out. That was the point where we added one layer of wind protection. Without much delay we reached Bernkastle-Kues.  https://en.bernkastel.de  The whole village looks very historic. Lots of visitors were here and one or two to many for us. We took our photos and went without another stop further on towards the river. There was also a ferries wheel🤷‍♂️ Traffic on foot over the bridge was quite heavy therefore we choose the bicycle to ride over and go further along the Moselle bike path on the left side of the river. Over time the sun came through. We were mostly on bike paths with some exceptions also on the road. It was around 11:30 when I felt like having a bite of anything would be a nice thing. As we changed from the left to the right side of the river we rode through the middle of a small village. Wolf, a suburb of Traben Trarbach https://traben-trarbach-wolf.de/ It seemed to be a quite lively village. At a site that seemed to be a “Beer or Wine” – garden we opted for a stop. The place was called Weingut Brennerei Straußenwirtschaft – Marika’s Stübchen http://www.weingut-hjschmidt.de/ It was a good choice as we found out.  Wine and food were good and later also a life brass band played. Willy ordered a cheese plate, I a plate of pork meat. Too large for one, but we squeezed it in anyway. The atmosphere in the place got better by the minute and every sip of wine helping us to eat our meals😂

Time, at this place, was not of essence, but we also had to watch our wine intake. For bicycle riders the legal intoxication level are higher as for car drivers, but if involved in an accident or so, one would lose the driving license too. Before those levels were reached, we went back to our bikes and picked up the bike path again. We went straight through Traben Trarbach https://www.traben-trarbach.de/en. It’s a modern city and not as picturesque as Bernkastel-Kaes or other villages/cities along the Moselle. 3 to 4km later we passed Kröv https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kr%C3%B6v , home of the Nacktarsch (naked butt) vineyard https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nacktarsch . Further down on the Moselle we were able to see one of the huge bridges passing over the valley as it emerged out of the fog. As we passed through Zell home of the “Zeller Katz” https://www.kuladig.de/Objektansicht/SWB-288934 I had never tried either of such wines😂 One of the restaurants that we passed showed the markings of the Moselle flood levels since 1910. There were also signs along the way that if one is interested can also rent vines http://www.ihr-eigener-weinberg.de/ . The number of castles or its ruins along the river was much smaller than even on the Neckar. But some of them were nicely renovated and in good conditions. I am eager to see Burg Eltz tomorrow https://burg-eltz.de/en/. If not, I must come back some other time. 2h later we arrived at Bullay https://bullay.de/ and its train station to pick up the train to Koblenz where we arrived 40 minutes later. It took us only 3 minutes to reach the IBIS Style Hotel. It was the best organized for bicycle riders we found out. A special garage in a secure courtyard was available for the bikes. But before going upstairs we had a nice relaxing beer on a cozy table next to the entrance on the walkway. Again, that kind of Train station feeling was with us, but not as intense as in Trier.

The old town was about a 10 minutes’ walk away. We followed the crowds and soon were at the main food place in town. Just about all franchise restaurants (not fast food) were there. L’Osteria too but as I realized that, my neck hair started curling and I shivered just on the thought of those huge pizzas served there. Instead, we choose the restaurant Wirtshaus Alt Coblenz http://www.alt-coblenz.de/ Again sitting of the terrace but this time in a constant draft due to the passageway next to us. My choice of a light food item was Coblenzer Geschichten – Tapas. It consisted of each one: Currywürstchen mit Pommes, Kartoffelsüppche, strammes Mäxchen mit Wachtelei, Debbekooche https://www.wirliebendiemosel.de/2021/02/25/debbekoche-leicht-gemacht/ , Apfelmus, Frikadellchen. It was a late dinner and late we arrived back at the hotel.

19.9. Sunday / Bullay – Koblenz

After a good breakfast we headed towards the train station to catch the train to Bullay from where today’s stage started. It was a Luxembourgian train www.cfl.lu/en-gb today, leaving Koblenz just before 10am. Close to us sat a traveler with more than usual luggage on a stair bag cart. Willy figured out that his name was Dieter Aurass  https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieter_Aurass He is a retired policeman turned writer. As indicated before, my interest was, to have a view to Burg Elz which I know now was not the case. I also missed, at least to recognize, the steepest vineyards along the Moselle “Bremmer Calmont”. We saw other steep and strange arranged vineyards that only a person with goat/Ibex like performance features could reach and work on. Since those moments along the river, I willingly will pay 2 or 3€ more for a bottle when stated: “Steillage” = steep slopes on the label. Its worth it and still not enough to pay for the work involved making wine and taking care the dry-stone walls that hold all of that together in good shape. I had seen the Monorack before along the Neckar with its steep slopes. It’s a great help for the workers in the vineyards. They climb up the steepest vineyards without issues. Never sat on one and don’t know if I wanted to do so at such angles https://www.clemens-online.com/produkte/monorack/ 

Today’s stage was also the last one. We again passed through nice looking small villages. At one we stopped and had lunch. It was at Klotten https://www.klotten.de/ where we stopped at the small winery Knobloch http://www.weinhaus-knobloch.de/ with its small terrace, were drinks and small food items were served. With the wine we ordered each a Tarte Flambee and if I remember correct, I had a second one. The rest of the stage was nice to ride. This time below the tall A81 valley crossing bridge over which I in my lifetime went by car at least 50+ times. Once with family, we stopped and looked from a viewpoint into the valley – very impressing then, very impressing now.

20.9. Monday / Koblenz – Stuttgart

Today we walked Koblenz after breakfast. Saw some the Kurfürstliches Schloß https://www.koblenz-kongress.de/kurfuerstliches-schloss.html the Görresplatz https://www.koblenz-touristik.de/kultur/plaetze-in-koblenz/goerresplatz.html, the Basilika St. Kastor http://www.koblenz-touristik.de/kultur/sehenswertes-koblenz/deutsches-eck.html and of course the “Deutsche Eck” where Moselle meets the Rhine http://www.koblenz-touristik.de/kultur/sehenswertes-koblenz/deutsches-eck.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deutsches_Eck . The ropeway entrance was not far from there. We took it to visit “Festung Ehrenbreitstein” https://tor-zum-welterbe.de/de/startseite/  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ehrenbreitstein_Fortress on the other side of the Rhine. It also incorporates a Youth Hostel. From this view point one has nice views over Koblenz and also the Rhine – Moselle We did not spend a lot of time there but enjoyed the views. Too cold to share the views with a nice beer. It became chilly overnight again. Walking back towards the hotel, we found a nice-looking restaurant with a cozy terrace. We had a small lunch, went back to the hotel to pick up our bikes and bags. From there to the Train station. The train was late. At the end 25 minutes. We found the car to store our bikes and our seats. To hang the bikes was a bit difficult and I messed up my nice red hiking trouser with the black chain grease. From there it took, with some additional delays 3:15h to Stuttgart. On the way we enjoyed each a small bottle of red and some chips. After parting at the train station in Stuttgart it took me 10 minutes or so and I was back home. 1h later everything was reorganized and the wash machine working.

All in all, it was a nice trip. The weather was mixed but mostly dry. Again, the views, sights as well as good wines and foods were the treats. It showed in my weight gain, but any time again😁

Camper Van Roundtrip from Stuttgart to France + Spain

This trip was to combine the drive for touristic and transportation reasons or needs. I hadn’t seen Laura and Guillermo for now just about a year and I had also collected items dedicated for Laura already before. Items that I either did not want any more or had in the cellar and did not know what to do with them. Laura showed interest and soon I will be loading up a Camper Van with goods of 100+kg for a most likely 2.500km trip to Madrid.

2021.07. 01 – 08.– Preparation

As the pickup day for the Camper Van came close, I started to put everything aside, that I thought of and in the same moment I did so, to not forget anything respectively had the chance to at least think about it again once I loaded up the boxes and stuff into the Camper Van.

One thought was for some time, what about breakfast while on the road? As I did not see myself under time constraint while on the road, I fantasized/dreamed about me, baking fresh rolls in the morning, instead of eating baguette or croissants etc. The idea of a Roll or Croissant changed into a Flatbread baked in a pan or pot. On TV I had seen one fellow just doing that. Kerstin recommended a yeast dough. I had made one a week ago and enjoyed making, baking, and eating it. One can also make a pizza out of it, if so desired. The main reason to choose the flatbread was that no oven was required but a pan for example, that I will have on board of the Van anyway.

2021.07.09. Friday – Picking up the Camper Van and loading it

I always, the day before leaving, changed/washed my bed sheets and towels. This was not different today and the first thing I did in the morning. The drying did the machine but the ironing of the sheets I had given up a while ago. I will drop the collected sheets from the last 6 weeks altogether at a commercial cleaning shop that just does the ironing/pressing and folding via a rotary pressing machine for me its “Mangen”. This morning I mixed a new bread dough out of wheat, rye and spelt @ 200gr. All in whole grain quality. That will last me for one bred every morning a whole week. By 10:31 my U5 tram left for the main train station, where I changed into the S1 (Urban City Train) That would bring me to the airport. I had a 12:00 a clock appointment for a PCR Test. For me it was not a requirement any more to have one for France or Spain, but I wanted to have no excuse for anyone not letting me into either of those 2 countries. By 12:30 I had my first cup of coffee and a sandwich as a very late breakfast at the airport. I did not know then, that I would not get any more food until around 10pm. By 1:15pm I was at the Rental Place to pick up the CamperVan called CrossCamp https://www.erwinhymergroup.com/en/brands-products/crosscamp . It’s based-on a Toyota Proace Van and built at the same lines at a PSA plant as the Peugeot, Opel or Citroen Vans. The conversion into a Camper Van was done at one of the Hymer factories https://www.hymer.com/de/en/home . At 3:15 I was at home. Before I did some last-minute shopping for small items at IKEA. At 4pm Björn and Family came to help loading the Van, which caused more work and time than assumed. Before it went dark, Björn and Family left and went on to the Allgäu (Pre-alps). I did some more trips up and down via elevator. By around 9:45pm I stopped, got something to eat and started to clean the apartment and do 2 or 3 final trips with small items that I had to squeeze into the cramped and limited space. At just shy of midnight, I stopped and set the alarm for 5am. All the past days I thought I would leave at 3 or 4am but that idea disappeared very fast as this day evolved.

2021.07.10. Saturday – Stuttgart to Narbonne  

This morning it was mostly fine tuning of the regular items needed for the bathroom, medication and other small items. Not to forget the 2 smoked Salmontrout (Salmon color of meat as due to the carotene diet during their last months), Kerstin brought back from the Allgäu last Monday. I promised them to Antonio my friend that lives in Catalunya. The one he wanted to bring home last time, was confiscated at the Stuttgart Airport at security in his carry-on.

Well, all fit in but not my kit-built compost toilette. It had to stay home. Same was true for my golf bag. When in need wherever, I will not have an easy solution for it with me. It would have been in the way also without the any of the goods I took with me. I’ll get an understanding of it the next 4 weeks while on this trip. It was 8am when I left the garage.

It was a good day to drive south. Not to hot and the AC in the car worked well as I approached the south of France. Traffic was heavy around Lyon and towards South until I hit Orange, where I turned westward towards Spain while 70% or so of the other cars went east towards the French Riviera for their weekend at the seaside. Some Dutch, Belgian and German Tourist were on the street also. I saw 1 Tesla from Denmark and 2 from France. Not many were on such long-distance trips. I saw some lavender fields with their unique colors. Also, the buildings in that area with their distinct color schemes were nice to look at. Had not been here for a long time. Otherwise, the day was uneventful – good for me. I ended the day in Narbonne. As my Telephone had no connection, I used the cars navigation system to get me to an area with 3 or 4 Hotels. The Campanile https://www.campanile.com/en-us had a room for me. They also took the trout in a separate plastic bag to their main refrigerator. I needed to sleep deep and long. The last 36h were quite exhausting for me and my back and neck muscles seem to let me feel their disapproval to the situation. As to the late arrival, dinner was no option. I choose to eat the rest of the Paella from last night, mixed with asparagus leftovers in the room with an apple and half the Soy yoghurt. Just before typing these notes, I was able to connect to my mobile provider and got the issue sorted out. All good again and ready for communication 😊 at least in France.

2021.07.11. Sunday – Narbonne to Cabrils

The soy yoghurt, what was left of it, an apple and a hardboiled egg was breakfast. The coffee I had 45 minutes later, at the Catalan Village Motorway rest stop, just before the Spanish boarder. Lots of Tour de France Service cars were there. Later I also saw a sign indicting that a certain exit was closed due to the tour de France. At about 11am I had passed the Spanish Boarder and was on my way to Rosas. Famous for me & my group of friends, to visit during the summer vacation, some 30/35 years ago. It had changed since then for sure. Not so sure if for its best. I searched for the Gozos Mundanos Restaurant www.gozosmundanos.com that I had visited 2 years ago. I wanted to purchase some more of their olive oil that I found to be very good. Unfortunately, a new shipment would only arrive end of next week. Close by, I had a coffee and a croissant and left Rosas after that towards Cabrils along the coast. Changed my mind after a while, as traffic was slow and busy. Made it to the Motorway and from there I was reaching Cabrils in less than an hour. My friends Lidia and Anthony were a bit surprised by my early arrival. From there on through lunch, a nap and dinner with lots of chatting and drinks. Lidia had prepared a Lupina en sal (Sea Bass in salt crust) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpNwctEjFeM It was 01:30am the next day when I gave up typing.

2021.07.12 Monday – Cabrils

Awake at 07:30 but not up before 08:30. Lidia, Antonio and I had a quiet day with lots of talking and exchanging information about each other’s life the last 24 months since we met last at my birthday in 2019. By 1pm we got ready to leave for the restaurant Fonda Marina in Montgat just outside Barcelona. http://www.fondamarina.com/  It is located next to the local main road to Barcelona, the railroad tracks, and the beach. A simple looking house with a great kitchen for local specialties and refined kitchen. After a very good lunch we had to move the car to be closer to the beach access. Not much of a beach left and after some 1h walking, we were back at the car park and on our way back up hill to their home. One has a nice view across the coastline onwards to the sea. I was tired but did not want to take a nap. Therefore, we just kept on talking and having a good and a relaxed afternoon in the nice breeze of the uphill drifting winds. Later Lidia presented us with the dinner options. Due to the large and good tasting lunch experience, no one was in the mood for lots of food. Some Gin Tonics, cold cuts & nuts etc. did the job. By 11pm I was ready to call the day an end and retrieve to my room typing these notes. Tomorrow the idea is for me, to leave at around 9:30 to 10 am and arrive in Madrid at Laura’s place at around 6 to 7 pm.

2021.07.13 Tuesday – Cabrils to Las Rozas (Madrid)

It’s time to move on. Laura & “Willy 2” are waiting for me in Madrid. After a last breakfast together, I had to pack up and leave my friends. I had 3 stops before reaching Madrid. Had to get Diesel for the car too. Unfortunately, the speed limited is at 120km/h. Having occasionally a cup of coffee and walk a bit, helped to keep me going. Yesterday’s lunch rice leftover tasted still well one 1 day later. No wine with it though. I don’t remember how often I have passed under the Greenwich Meridian symbol over the past years, but I still look out for it and caught it this time on camera. It was 6:20pm when I reached Laura’s & Guillermo’s new home. Parking in the Garage was easy and unloading Laura’s stuff fast with 3 sets of hands. I will stay for 4 nights or so and go on with my tour through Northern Spain. This time more for touristic reasons, but also to meet with friends in Galicia. The last thing we did was some shopping and having some beer and shared finger food at Cerveceria La Virgen www.cervezaslavirgen.com . I lived in Madrid when during the financial crisis 2008/2009 two young man returning from the US, started this Micro Brewery. I helped them a little bit by drinking their beer with pleasure, at their little pop-up Bar at Europolis http://europolis.com.es/  All has been growing since and their company too. It was nice to see the success and how the risk of investing and building a company paid off for them. The last thing we did was going for a walk to the nearby Prado Park. Park in this case = plain land with little trees, in the area we were. Further away that changes. Also, stunning views of Madrid at night. The high raisers, that had been built at the old training grounds of Real Madrid, were clearly standing out.  

2021.07.14 Wednesday – Madrid

We started slow, did some shopping, had a light lunch on the balcony and went later to Guillermo’s family for his mother’s birthday dinner. Past midnight we were back home, and we all opted to go to sleep immediately.

2021.07.15 Thursday – Madrid

Today we spend a great part of the day in the center of Madrid. Had a 1h lunch meeting at La Mantequeria www.lamantequeria.com. Willy 2 joined us later and we did some joint shoe and trouser shopping for a possible hiking experience for Laura in the week to come. Had a nice “sweet” experience at https://laduquesita.es/la-duquesita . Killed time until the restaurant we had a reservation was open and enjoyed various good Japanese style food items at https://yakinikurikyu.es/ .

2021.07.16 Friday – Madrid

A quiet, stay at home day. We left for food shopping. For lunch we picked up a preordered Fideuà https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fideu%C3%A0  and a Marisco https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellfish Paella. It came from a small shop in Las Rozas in Europolis, that also had simple Terrace and indoor seating http://arrozz.es/ . Quality and taste were superior.

2021.07.17 Saturday – Madrid

After staying up late the night before, we consequently took it easy on a Saturday morning. By then we had decided that Laura would join me for a week on the drive to Galicia and Asturias. By 11:30 we left for some shopping of hiking cloths for Laura and later picked up Guillermo to go together to visit Chieko & Raul in Collado Villalba. I met them first at a Mojo course in Tenerife just about 3 years ago. We enjoyed the time and had a lot to talk to catch up. Once back home and a nap later we drove a short distance to the La Dehesa park next to Europolis and walked for 1h. Before we were home, Guillermo had to have some Croquettes and a drink at Calixta https://www.facebook.com/Calixta-102219444602673 close to home.

2021.07.18 Sunday – Madrid to El Cabaco

By 10:30 we all sat in the Camper Van. Once we had dropped off Guillermo and had said goodbye to his parents, we were on our way towards Galicia. We took it slow and visited 4 interesting heritage villages on the way. El Barco de Avila http://www.spainisculture.com/en/destinos/el_barco_de_avila.html , Béjar https://www.spain.info/en/nature/sierras-bejar-francia-biosphere-reserve/ , Miranda del Castañar http://www.spainisculture.com/en/destinos/miranda_del_castanar.html and La Alberca https://www.spainthisway.com/places/la-alberca.php . We finally stopped for the day at the El Cabaco at the Camping site Las Cavenes http://www.campinglascavenes.com/ It was our first night where we used the Camper to sleep over night. It took us a while to get used to the different settings and until we had rearranged everything so we could the easiest find our staff without much searching. We succeeded and also got the refrigerator system going. At the Bar we had a light dinner and a drink. It was around 11:30 pm when the report was finished, and we turned the lights off.

2021.07.19 Monday – El Cabaco to Castro

I had to get into my liner sleeping bag sometime at night. It became too fresh. When I went to bed temperatures were at levels where I did not want a cover. I fell asleep again and at 8:30am I woke, well rested, up. I had not assumed to sleep that long and as we had a vacation day no alarm was set. We had to cover 460km today. The result was that we were driving off the camping site 1 ½ h late, getting us into Monforte de Lemos by 3pm https://www.spain.info/en/destination/monforte-lemos/ . We went straight to the Parador where Laura had made a reservation just 1h earlier. https://www.parador.es/en/paradores/parador-de-monforte-de-lemos It is located high up on a hill overlooking the city.  As experienced in the past, food was good and per the region. The first thing I did was to get a glass of Albariño and a good one. We did not go for a menu but ordered smaller and different rations. Later we drove down to the historic center and walked it in the heat of the sun. Not too intense – the walkin. Shops were closed and people enjoyed lunch or a coffee. At a DIA Supermarket we purchased a few items including humus. The fridge in the Van was working and we felt confident it would not turn bad. The inner city is located close to the river and the riverbanks were nicely set up and inviting for a Walk along the river. Once back at the car we entered Camping do Sil https://www.canondosilcamping.com into the navigation system and did not stop any more until we were there. Just as we started, I saw the first cloud in now 10 days. The camping site Canon do Sil was next to the Do Sil Canyon https://www.turismo.gal/que-facer/birding-in-galicia/os-mellores-lugares/canon-do-sil?langId=en_US with nice views. The greater area is called Ribeira Sacra https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en and is a very interesting area and next time I will be back with more time. It is also home of good white wines https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/route/pr-g-86-ribeira-sacra-vineyards-trail . After today’s lunch we felt like eating light. The Restaurant had earlier a sign out, that showed several vegetable items including a salad. All these items however were not available. After the weekend crowed had eaten it all. We had Pork Chops (Chuleta) and a Filet (Solomillo de Tenera) instead. A viewpoint that we walked to after dinner, provided a nice view, but light was not sufficient anymore to get good photos.

As a hint, close by is a former Benedictine Monastery which is partially also a Parador  https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/recurso_en/monasterio-santo-estevo-de-ribas-de-sil it is worthwhile visiting or staying https://www.parador.es/de/paradores/parador-de-santo-estevo .

2021.07.20 Tuesday – Castro to Ribeira

Last night was a bit short. 3 or 4 times a baby started to cry and woke us up. Around 7:30am we were awake and started to pack up. Today we opted for a coffee at the Bar. Before I was already at the  viewpoint and as the sky, also the valley fog blocked the sight. I had hoped for a better view than last night. Yesterday we stopped short of walking through the woods to ruin of the Monastery of Santa Cristina de Ribas do Sil https://www.paradadesil.es/index.php/gl/turismo/historia . Today was the day. However, after 1km and always going down I stopped the hike and we returned. I did not feel like hiking all the way from the valley bottom back up to the ridge this morning. So back we went, made the camper ready and went down by car. I was happy to not have been walking down. A ruin in the process of been rebuilt it was, not much more. From there wed drove without interruption to Combarro https://makespain.com/combarro/ . One of the nicest villages in Galicia I was told. The one or possible 2 streets direct along the water in the old historic center with all the historic “Hórreos” (Corn Crib) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%B3rreo was worthwhile to be visited. Most of the good (touristic) Restaurants were in that area. On this Tuesday, the number of visitors, were at pre-Corona levels. It took me 20 minutes to get a parking spot. The restaurant we choose was OK with a nice view. However, the paella was not as good as the one we had at Europolis the other day. Once done we left for the Bodega Adega Valdés  www.adegavaldes.com They had won in 2020 an Albariño contest. Unfortunately, this particular wine was sold out – I should have purchased the 2 bottles I saw at one of the souvenir shops at Combarro. The entomologist was sure the 2020 bottles were at same levels as last year’s winner. I purchased 6 bottles of the 2020 version https://adegavaldes.com/tienda/es/blancos/8-albarino-gundian.html as well as 2 bottles of sparkling Albariño wine (they don’t even shown it at the online shop – one bottle killed with W & R and it tasted well). Once we had stored the winebox in the car, we entered the address of or next camping site, Camping Coroso http://www.campingcoroso.com  and only stopped once at A Pobra do Caramiñal for a Farmacy and a gas station. Ribeira itself it’s an industrial fish port. Our Friends Annemarie & Manfred were both born there, and Manfred had returned home from Germany, some 10 to 15 years ago. We were going to see them tomorrow. We had been driving all day, therefore a walk along the beach into the city was the consequence. It took some 20 to 30 minutes for the walk along the beach on prepared wooden paths. We had just a brief drink in one of the bars and returned to the Camper.  

2021.07.21 Wednesday – Ribeira

We slept in and arrived by 10:45 at our friend’s home. We did a lot of talking and bringing each other back to speed. Lunch as well as dinner were opulent – as usually. All sorts of seafood were on the table. Most members of the greater family were participating. Christian brought a bag of razor shells “Navajas” fresh from a fisher. They had to be put into fresh water for several hours to lose the sand and get rid of the sea water. The eating and drinking went on until we left at 01.20 on Thursday morning. We opted to walk the 3km back to the Camper to not have bad conscience.

It was my/our 4th or 5th visit in and around Ribeira. All in all, I had spent at least 5 weeks here. Waters are clean and mussels are grown. However, don’t expect southern Spain’s weather. It can be foggy in the summer. Mostly Spanish Tourists will be here. Vegetables, Meat and Fish and all other Seafood items, are from freshest quality and having local food dishes is a special treat. Not to forget the Albariño white wine. https://www.turismo.gal/que-visitar/rias-e-praias/ria-de-arousa?langId=en_US

2021.07.22 Thursday – Ribeira to Rinlo

As planned, we left in the morning and drove along the Atlantic north towards the historic site of Castro de Baroña https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castro_de_Baro%C3%B1a  We arrived just in time to catch one of the last parking places. By foot we went down to the archeological site took our photos and went back up to the O Castro restaurant https://o-castro.negocio.site to get a coffee and some toasted bread with olive oil and fresh ground tomatoes.

Next stop was at Malpica. To reach it in time for lunch, we partially had to pick up the highway and bypassed Santiago. By phone we had made a reservation at the Restaurant San Francisco http://sanfranciscomalpica.com/ . Many restaurants were along the sea and all full. Our table, inside and one floor up, allowed us to look over the sea onto Islas Sisargas https://www.visitacostadamorte.com/en/post/sisargas-islands , a small archipelago used as shelter by numerous marine birds. Only the larger one seemed to have had some streets on it as per Google map. The other one showed buildings etc. but on Google Map nothing was shown. https://www.tripmondo.com/spain/galicia/a-coruna/malpica/ . The waiter realized that we looked through the windows towards the islands and recommended to take a trip from the port to the islands as the sea was absolutely flat. We saw one coming back from the island. Once we were done and found the way to the port it was too late. We would not have been able to make a trip and be in time of closure at the reception at our camping site. Therefore, we went back to our car and started driving. Next was Rinlo http://turismo.ribadeo.gal/info.php?sec=37&idioma=en and Camping Rinlo Costa http://rinlocosta.es/ . Once at the site we were tired and opted for a brief dinner at the bar with 2 beers for me, to re-adjust my liquid levels.

2021.07.23 Friday – Rinlo to Peorlora

One of the sites we wanted to visit today, was the Beach called “Las Catedrales” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/As_Catedrais_beach I rented two bikes to get there, as I did not want to move the camper. It did not even take 10 minutes and the bikes were locked and we were in line at the check point with other tourists. I had seen the arches and washed-out caves and formations 3 years ago while on the “El Transcantabrico” train trip. At the end it started to lightly rain and all ran for cover. Once back up I gave up standing in line to clean my feet with water but sat down, waited for the air and temperature to do the job and brushed the sand off. The rest did 3 paper towels I had on me. Just as we turned into the driveway of the camping site, it started to rain again. Good for us that the cafeteria was open. We enjoyed a toasted bread with olive oils and fresh tomato sauce and coffee/water. At 10:45 we checked out and were on the road to Rinlo. Famous for their “Arroz Caldoso Con Bogavante” https://www.directoalpaladar.com/recetas-de-arroces/arroz-caldoso-bogavante . Unfortunately, we did not think the evening before to make a reservation for lunch there. Now all restaurants were solid booked. This is the menu of the one of 2 or 3 once in the village www.cofradiaderinlo.gal  On we went to Ribadeo and booked a table for two at the Restaurant La Quinta http://www.asadorlaquinta.es/ . Ribadeo is also the place for most “Indianos” homes in at least Galicia http://turismo.ribadeo.gal/info.php?sec=38&idioma=es . The name was given because they belonged to Spaniards that became rich in South America and built themselves houses back home in the South American style. In Ribadeo is one in the middle of it, that slowly falls apart. Its original owner came to see it built, had to return and never had the chance to see it finished. Why the City allows for it to crumble away??  It’s a mystery for me. After a stroll through the center, we drove on to visit Cudillero https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cudillero . A nice little fishing village. Its original houses are the main and picturesque interest. The modern city grew behind the hill. We passed through a canal like tunnel, with walkways at both sides, that went through the hill just before the village, right after the car park, into the new part of town which is not worth a second view. Reaching the historic village Harbour part, I purchased some Souvenirs (a Cup and some individual made spoons as presents for guests at home the next time at Soluna & Pixueta http://www.ceramicasoluna.com/  and  some canned fish and seafood items at www.lagijonesa.com After such a hard walk and shopping a drink at the Restaurante La Lonjas terrace https://www.facebook.com/Restaurante-La-LONJA-Cudillero-772367536216558 felt just right – but always with the sky in sight, as dark clouds did not promise a lot of sunshine. We later barely made it back to the car. By 7pm we were at the next camping site, Buenavista in Perlora http://www.campingbuenavista.com/ It was just a short walk down hill to the beach. Not my time and temperature for a swim as it was only 18C outside and the water, I had to assume, even colder. We were still so full and satisfied from our lunch, that both of us did not care for any more food tonight. I was suffering also bit from my Ice cream I enjoyed at the time in Ribadeo. Sugar free. My stomach and intestine did not approve it. We will remember Buenavista as a Camping site with small sites and noisy neighbors. Our neighbor’s dogs and the noise of pumps to fill up the air mattresses went on until 1am and cut our sleep short.  

2021.07.24 Saturday – Perlora to Ponferrada

The main goal was to buy flowers and lay them onto Laura’s grandfather sibling’s grave. All his siblings lived and passed away here in Oviedo. We had received the correct information and the cemetery’s office was open so that Laura could locate it easily. Not that it was for any benefit for the buried, but the views from this site to the Asturian Mountains in Oviedo’s backyard were spectacular. Later we discussed the route for today and Sunday. We decided to first go to a suburb called Colotto. There, as Laura was told, was a good shop for Asturian food items “Crivencar” http://www.crivencar.com/distribucion-productos-asturianos/comercio-hosteleria/inicio_33_1_ap.html . 4,5kg was the weight of my box with various food items. I am looking forward enjoying each one of them. We both had to have some precooked and canned Fabada https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fabada_asturiana and other specialties before leaving Asturias. By now it was close to lunch time and Laura found a very good restaurant “Casa Jamallo” in Bárazan https://casajamallo.negocio.site  which is located in the mountains south of Oviedo. On the way we passed Entrago were an on old railroad tracks was transformed into an hiking and biking path called “Vía Verde Senda del Oso”. The drive from Oviedo itself is stunning and I will be back for a vacation soon.  https://www.turismoasturias.es/en/descubre/naturaleza/rutas/senderismo/senda-del-oso . At Casa Jamallo we just shared 3 starters but the beans, meet, sausages etc…. were so filling that we could not eat it all, but took some with us in a doggy bag for tonight. Laura still had some cravings for a desert. Therefore, a local specialty cake “Tarta Garrucha” based on Chestnuts was shared 3:1 and a coffee helped me to wash my smaller portion down. The drive from there, to Ponferrada, where our next camping site was, was quite interesting. Small Mountain roads made it fun and the views were spectacular.  It took us 2 1/4h driving until we reached it http://www.campingbierzo.com/ . As we selected our site, we realized that opposite of us a couple from Göppingen were setting up tent and Mercedes Camper Van. I went over to say hello and as I, they had 2 weeks of camping behind them. Their accent indicated that they were from the Schwäbische Alb close to Göppingen (numberplate).

2021.07.25 Sunday – Ponferrada on Camino Santiago

At check in, we ordered already 2 sandwiches with omelets for this morning. Over the last days we came to the conclusion to walk the Camino stage from El Acebo https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Acebo to Ponferrada https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ponferrada . It was a short, but a nice, 17km long part of the Camino, that I thought Laura would enjoy walking and experiencing. She did not hike in the past and I had hope she might like it. We had set the alarm for 07:40 and were done and ready including the picked-up sandwiches at 08:45 when the Taxi arrived to take us to El Acebo. The weather was perfect. Temperature was at 17C in the morning and an air temperature of 24C in the shade. Bearable also in the sun. This stage had the different path surfaces from walking on dirt tracks to on the rocks and Asphalt. What was obvious, was that there were just about absolutely no Pilgrims on the way. We saw about 10 to 20 on foot and bike. A very small number and I believe mainly day tourist like us. Without any pre hike training, my feet gave me a bit of a hard time. I had had a blister two days ago on my left little toe and that was where it hurt now again. Had a band aid on it but that did not help. We survived the walk and enjoyed a nice lunch at the “Doce Torres” Restaurant http://www.docetorres.com/ in Ponferrada. From there we walked through the historic city center and organized a Taxi to take us back to the Camping site. No food any more all evening and night.

2021.07.26 Monday – Ponferrada to Madrid

I had a coffee for breakfast at the bar on site and a croissant. We were ready to leave by 09:30. Our goal was the Medulas https://www.turismodelbierzo.es/medulas/  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_M%C3%A9dulas . A roman mining site between the 1st and 2nd Century. We were not alone on the path , but walking in good distance to others. We left the Medulas for Astorga https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astorga,_Spain . A small city with a large Cathedral and a Gaudi Building. Besides others, famous for Chocolate and Cocido Maragato (Butcher Soup). That’s what we had for lunch – Cocido Maragato https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocido_maragato . From Astorga we went to Avila https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81vila,_Spain to see if Laura could find some kind of a historic map, that she could use for a special programming job at her University. This was not the case, and on we went back via motorway to Madrid. The rest of the day was homework and some talking with my lovely hosts. However, Guillermo had some desire for a Pizza late in the evening 😊

2021.07.27 Tuesday – Madrid

It was my day alone in Madrid. I have a retirement Metro pass which I can use for a month in the whole network of Madrid for 15€. I found my way to the local train station, jumped onto a #7 Cercania https://www.madrid-traveller.com/madrid-trains-cercanias that got me right to the Nuevos Ministerios station where an El Corte Ingles Department store is right next to it. There I did some shopping on food items and some small gift items for my grandchildren. Once on the return train I realized I had forgotten some of the large/thick asparagus cans and some special seasoning for my sister. Back home it was on Guillermo to prepare lunch. At the end we had some well-cooked and well balanced spicy Mexican food on the plate including tortillas to fill. I opened a bottle of Ramon Bilbao a high-altitude red, described at their website as “UNEXPECTED CHRAM”. I can confirm that it was good, and I guess it was an American oak barrel in which it aged.

2021.07.28 Wednesday – Madrid

A mostly stay at home day. I had forgotten to purchase some items. Therefore, Laura and I went to a huge El Corte Ingles Hyperstore. I found all items there, plus some more. I also got some Queso de Burgos for which we, Rosi, Willy and I have cravings and don’t understand why something like it is not available in Germany. It is eaten with some sweet Membrillo https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quince_cheese . This particular Queso de Burgos is good until 21.08 if cooled. Therefore, I had to have 220V in the Camper Van on for the refrigerator, on my camp site every night to accomplish this.

Today it was on me to prepare lunch. I choose to make a large mixed salad with some warm kind of dressing. Was ok. I missed my spicy sauce that I should have added. In the late afternoon we went to Madrid to meet with Laura’s Grandpa for a drink and some talks. For dinner, we ate the various leftovers, including a Burrata salad with mostly fresh cheese and very little salad. Tasted fine.

2021.07.29 Thursday – Madrid to Panticosa

The day to say goodbye. It was my time to start my return drive through the Pyrenees and France back to Stuttgart. I left at 10:15 and was 20 minutes later at my friend’s house in Collado to drop off the bottle of Eggnog “Eierlikör” that I had forgotten the last time. Next was Brihuega, with its lavender fields https://johleneorton.com/brihuega-guadalajara-lavender-fields-in-spain/ From there It was an uneventful 400km drive to the Camping Escarrilla http://www.campingescarra.com/ North of Zaragoza. They did not make any reservation but once there, they had sufficient spaces left. I booked for 2 nights. The day ended with the usual typing of my report, me walking the surroundings of the campground and fighting the desire for some finger food I might give in this time…… 😉 One day later I can say it was a Pulpo a la Gallego and a glass of good white local wine.

2021.07.30 Friday – Panticosa (1200m) – Hiking & Sightseeing

I woke up at 8am and as soon as I was ready, left the campground to see what the views were in the morning. Yesterday, early evening, I had to take photos into the light of the sundown that were at the end not so good looking. Much better this morning. And what I realized too was, that the Churros stand was open. It felt as if I had won the jackpot. 6 Churros, a cup of hot chocolate and later a cup of coffee – life was good. After I returned and had the Van prepared, I left for Panticosa which is located in the Tena Valley. It is in the Pyrenees at 1200m altitude. Surrounded by mountains as high as 2800m. Last night I tried to save 1€ but it did not work. Therefore, I paid today at the vending machine at the exit of the public parking, 4€ for a ticket to have access to the Pantarelas de Panticosa. It a new attraction and only little information in Spanish was available https://www.hola.com/viajes/20210408187396/huesca-pasarelas-panticosa-swng/ Basically it’s a very narrow canyon, where onto its flanks, metal paths and bridges had been mounted and anchored. It’s a save walk of 30 minutes or so and in total about 1 hour until one is back at the car parking area. I took a sidestep into the village. Did some souvenir shopping and after I had dropped all off at the car, went on to the ropeway to get a ticket and me up to the top. From there I went up with quite some energy to get me to the Mirador De Los Valles at 2200m. I had not visited at lower altitude the Ibón de Sabocos https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ib%C3%B3n_de_Sabocos which was the end of the hike for most visitors. The views were defiantly worth the effort. All in all, it took me 2 ½h to be back at the upper ropeway station and its cafeteria to have some refreshment. For the last 2,2 km downhill, the ropeway did a good job. Midst in driving back to the camping site, I changed my mind and instead of turning left, I turned right to the Hot Spring Resort of Panticosa. I had the idea to see if I could get some sort of treatment. At the end one Therapist was free for a Peloides https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peloid_(geology)        https://www.panticosa.com/doc/carta-de-peloterapia-quinon-en-GB.pd leg treatment.  A fango kind of material, but green (cold-not heated), was put onto my legs and wrapped up. Later a light massage was added. I have to say I walked lighter after that. From there on back to the camping site for a refreshment and some light fare. While typing this in front of me, on the restaurant’s terrace with a shanty, opposite the street some party meant obviously to be for the whole village, as to their loudspeaker settings. I guess a summer weekend highlight. But lucky for most us, it ended well before midnight.

2021.07.31 Saturday – Panticosa to Sainte-Foy-La- Grande

Last night I fell asleep early and paid the price by weaking up early. At 06:45 the night was over. After some mail, posts and news reading, I got my inner Van in order and left for another visit at the Churros stand. But only Porras https://food-trekker.com/2016/10/21/churros-v-porras/ were available. After the Porras with a cup of chocolate and a café con leche later, I went back to the van got a shower, washed and air dried my hair, and I was ready to go. I dropped the idea to visit the 5 Villas https://www.comarcaacomarca.com/rutas-itinerarios/cincoVillas  and the Bodega Gregorio Martinez (I was intrigued at one point by one of their wines) http://www.gregoriomartinez.com/en/ in Rioja and went straight over the Pyrenees. There is always time to return and if not, I still can dream on about it 😊 The drive with nice views on the Spanish side but fog and rain on the French side. I was shooting for Lourdes and had the navigation tell me the way. When there, it was still raining. I found a parking place free of charge on Saturdays. I walked towards the main drag and followed the crowed. Because Covid, I guess and the rain today, not so many believers were there but more regular tourists and sightseers like me. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lourdes https://www.lourdes-france.org/en  At least, that was my impression. I might be wrong. I walked to the church, purchased on the way back to the car a little souvenir for my granddaughter, whose birthday is coming up soon. And off I was. I had not had lunch yet. I had felt like in a mouse trap in Lourdes and had opted rather to drive on and find a regular restaurant. Bevor I had the chance to find one an ALDI came up. Just out of interest in the possible differences between an ALDI in Germany and in France, made me stop. As I entered the shop, I thought I’d look for some Humus. No Humus at Aldi in France. Wine was just sold packed in Cartons of 3 or in a bag in a box with 3L content. But I found a pack with 3 different pates and an individual jar of Rillettes – which now I can say, 2 weeks later, that it tasted very well when I ate it. A dark chocolate was also put into the bag. I had to turn north just about 30km before Bordeaux. Following the direction from the navigation system I did not really know where I was, as I suddenly saw some and later more vineyards. First just on the left and later on both sides of the road. I passed villages such as Le Puy and St. Ferme and saw a few directions to some of the Chateau domains that processed all those grapes. I made some notes and will have to come back. Possibly again with a camper, but then also with my bike. The end of today’s drive was the camping site “De La Bastide” next to the Dore https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dore_(river) right at the outskirts of Sainte-Foy-La- Grande https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sainte-Foy-la-Grande . I did not even bother to get organized but left on foot to have a look at the little city and also get something to eat. The building substance of the inner and let’s say historic center, were in bad shape. As restaurants opened at around 6:30 to 7pm I had to find out that most of the restaurants I had interest in were already fully booked. I found a small one Au Plesir Gourmand at Rue 100-86 Rue Victor Hugo, that only opened in the evenings. The menu was short and communication not that effective with my little French I remembered. I did get an Andouillette that he sold very enthusiastically. It came not as a sausage but open in a little casserole with pan seared potatoes that I found out were apple pieces. I cut the French fries into short pieces and mixed them with the rest of what was in the casserole. The salad did not make it and I did not ask for it anymore. All was quite filling and there was no need for more food. Once back at the campsite it was back to the normal procedures of getting the van ready for the night, getting my report typed, ……..

2021.08.01 Sunday – Sainte-Foy-La- Grande to Beaulieu

After a satisfying 8h of sleep on the upper deck for the first time, I made myself and the van presentable and left the campsite in search for some coffee and a croissant. This along the way towards Périgueux. Today I know that on the food side its famous for truffles. Often heard about it but never visited it. The sky was somewhat overcast but it did not look like if it would rain extensively. I thought I was early. Found a free parking spot next to the river and in short distance to the Cathedral Saint Front  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C3%A9rigueux_Cathedral . The original parking, along the riverbed, that I was shooting for was closed. Instead, the city had a game park set up for the kids that stayed in the city respectively were visiting the city. I was drawn towards the historic center. Still no coffee nor croissant yet. Right next to the market there was a table at a restaurant available and I took the chance. I did get my coffee but no croissant. Too late, all were sold. Nor did I later as I walked the streets see any bakery that had any croissant. The Market Hall was open also. At the end of the walk, as I took a photo, a women asked if I would like her to make one with my phone with me in the picture. I thankfully denied. Never lose control over your phone – with strangers – I thought. Before meeting with my friends Sheila and Ben I looked for a gas station on the way and found a self-service station 24/7/365. On Sundays only few full services gas stations are open. We hadn’t seen us for just about 2 years. That gave us enough to talk about. After a light and tasteful lunch, we eat an apple pie that I purchased on the market at Périgueux. Later I found out that it’s a small family run business with a restaurant and the sale of products https://restaurant-vegetarien-samovar.com/gourmandises-du-perigord-les-saveurs-de-mimi/

https://www.ofermier.fr/les-saveurs-de-mimi/  It was out of puff paste (Blätterteig) with kind of decorated thin leaves also out of puff paste, but they seemed to have been caramelized. Not simple to bake such cake – I think. I tried also one of the Canalé https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canel%C3%A9 I brought with me also from Périgueux. Not sure if they were fresh. By 4:30 pm we parted and I was on my way to tonight’s campground Camping l’Air du Temps La Barriere, in Beaulieu  https://www.camping-ferme-cantal.com It was a slow drive on the A20 highway and only once I was on the A89 traffic lightened and the speed increased. At the end I was lucky. I was at the camp site 10 minutes before closing time. The last 5km were on a narrow and winding local road. Had to cross a dam too. Over the day it was raining on and off and that was true for the evening and night. No restaurant on site therefore it was Cheese, Rillettes, Breadsticks, Nuts and a large Peach.

2021.08.02 Monday – Beaulieu to Ranchot

It was chilly morning and the wafts of mist raised from the lake below us as. I took a photo at around 7:30. Only then I saw the castle. 1/2h later the mist was gone-castle still visible 😊. Tomorrow I will sleep again in my own bed. After I left Beaulieu without having visited the castle http://www.chateau-de-val.com the plan was to go on to Vichy. At one junction, I was the only one of 20 cars and Caravans, that went straight on. That made me wonder and 3km later after I had made up my mind, I turned around and followed them. It was a perfect choice. I did not want to have missed the impressions I had for the next 30 or 40 km. The first city I came across, was Bourboule, a Spa Town and full of life and visitors. Nearby the dead or dormant volcanoes https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/volcanic-france-exploring-the-unsung-auvergne-region   https://www.vulcania.com/en/  I stopped and purchased a Saucisson Sec aux Noisettes 😋 at Saveur D’antan, 13 Pl. du Panthéon, 63240 Mont-Dore Tel. 0473214208 also a slice of Brioche and some sweet almond and sugar and cream steered up in a hot pan (I have no name for it) All just because again I did not get a coffee and a croissant. I also purchased some local cheese items and some sausage/meat item that again I have no name for. On the way again I stopped for at least a coffee at La Guinguette du Col at Croix Morand, at 1401m altitude. From the quite large parking lot people hiked up the Puy de la Tache to 1629m. Behind it was the Puy de Sancy with an altitude of 1885m. I opted against the hike and left after I finished my coffee to go on to pass through nice villages such as Champeix or Montpeyroux https://www.francetoday.com/travel/travel-features/discover-the-enchanting-villages-of-auvergne   At the end I reached Vichy, but had only as per my Google Map information and my calculation 1h to eat and walk the center. Well, I opted for the food and 20minutes of walking. I liked what I saw and might come back if I drive across France again. Google Map told me already that it would re-route me due to a construction site on the A 86. I was not told that I would have to go first for 30 minutes into the opposite direction once on the highway. Once I realized that, I of course was on the on-ramp and had no chance of turning around. I made it to my last Camp site this trip Camping de l’lle at Ranchot http://www.juracampingdelile.fr in time, as officially they closed at 7pm. I just hope I did not miss any of the speed traps along the way. Most of the day was quite nice and without any rain drops – until I was close to my last campsite of this trip. It started to rain on and off. I made a reservation at the camp restaurant. A mixed salad with slices of salmon Trout and an entrecote were the choice of food. Both were well prepared and tasted good. Wine was just sold by the bottle which was ok with me. It tasted well and I plan to get some more at the winery just 30km from here.

 2021.08.03 Tuesday – Ranchot to Stuttgart

It had been raining all night. The noise level indicated the intensity and made me choose the times to get to the restrooms and showers. I opted after the meal last night not to have any breakfast and some sips of water was all I took in. The rain was with me until Montbéliard. From there on it stayed mostly dry. Traffic was light on the French motorway and very heavy on the German side. After a few backups due to roadworks, I finally made it. I delivered 4 cartons of reds that I had in the car for a friend.

Once at home I emptied the Van, vacuumed it and used a wet rag to take most of the dirt off. A professional cleaning will take place at the renter’s place. The next day in the morning I dropped it off. Explained the scratches from contacts with a concrete pillar at a parking space I should not have used. But for what do we have Insurances ☹

My preferred Spanish food items are well stock ed again too 😊 😊

All in all, I enjoyed this 3 1/2week vacation and my Toypta “CrossCamp” Van. It reinforced my thinking to not get into something bigger unless more than 2 people are involved and standing at one location for some time would be required. With this little 5m Van it was driving as usually and so was parking etc. Very convenient. With 2 it works and especially if one does not use it as means of transporting water fountains or 50 bottles of wine as I did. For the future I will have to have the possibility for one or two bikes in or on a Van. I did not miss the portable compost toilette. If I stay on camp sites overnight, their provided services are fine with me. It might be different with the Golf bag. When alone it’s a nice activity occasionally.

The Neckar + Rhine Bicycle Trails – from the Neckar source to Arnhem, May + June 2021

The Neckar https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neckar does not have an actual spring or fountain, but is fed off a swamp from where it starts its journey. There is an official starting point that one passes while following the trail. It’s artificial and not more than a photo opportunity.

Why riding the Neckar Bicycle Trail?  https://www.komoot.de/collection/522/the-neckar-valley-cycle-path-in-7-days-from-the-black-forest-to-the-rhine   It’s the river that’s passing Stuttgart where I spend most of my life. It fed the swimming pool in Horb, that we visited as kids, when staying on my aunt and uncles farm further into the Black Forrest. One will see lots of greens but also historic cities, converted or transformed old industrial buildings from flour mills to weaving mills. After about 1/3 of the distance has passed it starts to flow through the greater Stuttgart area and turns into a shipway. After 2/3 of its length, it turns northwest until it hits the Rhine just after having passed Heidelberg and its majestic ruins of the old castle and entering into the “flat” Rhine Valley at Mannheim https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mannheim . It’s a heavily industrialized area. From there the Rhine passes by larger cities such Mainz, Wiesbaden, Köln & Düsseldorf before it crosses the boarder to the Netherlands where it splits right after Millingen into the wider Waal and the smaller Lower Rhine (Nederrijn https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nederrijn ). Southwest of Rotterdam they kind of meet again and finally enter the English Channel in Hoek van Holland. And that is where I want to ride my bike to. Don’t know if it’s in one go, including a touristic excursion further north, or if I will have to interrupt the trip a few times. I will have to go with the flow of things. Cannot control Covid-19 and its various restrictions. I also rented a Camper Van for 4 weeks 9th of July. – August 5th that hopefully will get me for 4 weeks into Spain and France.

2021.05.10 Monday – Villingen-Schwenningen / Horb

My friend Willy joined me for the first stages of the trip. The starting point was Schwenningen https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villingen-Schwenningen . To reach it, we took, at 09:16, a train from the Stuttgart main station to Rottweil. We came early to ensure we would get a place for our bikes. In place with our 2 bikes in one of the cars that had a space for one passenger and one bike we were waiting for the train to get going, when an announcement was made, that the two male riders in car xx blocking a reserved space, to please come into the main rail car compartment, just behind the train engine. As the door closed there the train moved. In Rottweil we switched into a smaller Diesel-powered rail bus, just on the other side of the platform. Once in Schwenningen we got out at the stop named “Ice Stadion” station. We did not bother to visit the city. I had been there last year and saw a few things. Including a nice Clock Museum https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museum_of_Clockmaking So off we went, took the photo shot at the “Neckar Source” and pressed on.  The next larger city we passed through was Rottweil. Famous besides others for their Carnival Celebration https://www.arjunkarthaphotography.com/fasnet-in-rottweil/ its rich history https://www.rottweil.de/de/Zeitstrahl  (only in German available) and the newly constructed elevator test tower https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/TK-Elevator-Testturm . We left the original path as we wanted to be close to the Neckar. That got us downhill which we later had to compensate for. Passing through the center we saw the nice historic inner city up close. Again, we just passed through and only stopped for photos and such until we reached the little Hamlet of Talhausen. There just having crossed the river again was a bench waiting for us to have a break and a small lunch bite. The Covid-19 lockdown-light, as I call it, did not allow hotels (only for business travelers) cafés or restaurants to open. In the public transportation system FFP2 masks had to be worn, always including the stations.

Therefore, we had our sandwiches and drinks with us. Willy of course had his 2 beers. 2 wheels, 2 pedals, 2 lights …… are good arguments for having 2 beers with lunch too.

On we went passing by Oberndorf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oberndorf_am_Neckar and Sulz https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulz_am_Neckar and finally arrived at Horb https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horb_am_Neckar We had, while riding, arranged for a meeting with our old friend “James”. He moved away from Stuttgart quite a long time ago and it’s always fun to meet him. We met in front of the train station had a nice chat and each one beer later we parted. We had to wait for an already delayed train. Once on bord it stopped due to technical issues in the middle between two stations and later, after a “reset”, dropped us all off in Böblingen, for us to take another train to get us home to Stuttgart’s main station. The rest of the journey was good but 1,5h delayed.

The day was at least dry, and it was not raining, but much too cold for this time of the year. After a total of about 90km for Willy and 83km for me we were back at our homes. At last, my back end had started to hurt somewhat, about an hour before Horb. By now the sensation was gone and I felt fine.

2021.05.28 Monday – Horb/Wendlingen

It took a while for us to find a day as a common denominator that worked out for the two of us. Therefore Friday 28th it was.

The weather forecast stated that we would have an at least warmer day, than last time. It started however with 9°C when we left our homes. Again, we met at the train station at track No2 and took the train to Horb. By now we knew the procedure and had our bikes in place at the right spot.

We arrived in time at the station in Horb and went straight onto the trail, where we left it off the other day. The Neckar had, through its history, to cut its way through some hills. Compared to the ride the other day the landscape was different. The valley was narrower and Instead of the valley bottom, we often rode along the flanks with quite some ups and downs. But never to the extreme. About 6 km after Horb we passed under the huge and impressing valley crossing A81 Motorway bridge.  Not much later we passed by a closed down Carbon dioxide factory. It started to produce in 1895 and ceased it in 2004. 10 Minutes later we hit the Golf Course Schloss Weitenburg where 2 years ago, Rosi, Willy and I, played a round of Golf https://www.gcsw.de/. The castle https://schloss-weitenburg.de/en/home/  is located on a hill above the GC with views along the valley. It has a nice terrace where I had several times some coffee and a cake. From here on there was nothing much of interest until we reached Rottenburg a. Neckar https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rottenburg_am_Neckar . Rottenburg is a strong catholic. Our state of Baden Württemberg is about split 50:50 between the Catholics and protestants.  It was only 10km from here to Tübingen on perfect kept bicycle lanes and off main streets and paved. But first we had nice view of the Wurmlinger Chapel https://www.schwaebischealb.de/attraktionen/wurmlinger-kapelle . It was at about that point where I realized that my rear tire lost air. I had a spare inner tube with me but that had the wrong valve thread. We had to take it off again and repair the old one. I was lucky having Willy with me. My last repair job on a bike tire was about 40 years ago.  Tübingen and its vicinity is ruled by the “Greens” and its well known that they made lots of investments the last 10-15 years to make bike riding easy and convenient. And it shows. One is not alone on the bike lanes. The Schloss Hohentübingen https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schloss_Hohent%C3%BCbingen that sits above the city, is the first building one sees when approaching Tübingen https://www.tuebingen.de/en . Both of us had been multiple times in Tübingen. Therefore, we rode our bikes straight through the city. Tübingen was in the past weeks/months a test site for different Pandemic control procedures. The worked out. Test, Test, Test,—–  It was full of people and felt strange in Covid-19 times. As we approached the other side of the center, we found an empty bench facing the river. We grabbed the chance and took in our lunch for the day at this lovely spot. Students normally run punt flat boats here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punt_(boat) . Today they were anchored not far from our lunch spot.  At the end of my lunch (one Ham & Cheese wholegrain roll), I enjoyed 3 homemade oat flakes-based cookies with a bit of Chocolate and raisins but without extra sugar from Rosi. They went down very well.

By now the temperature was up, but a light jacked while riding the bike, felt still good. After Tübingen the perfect lanes kept just coming. Speed was up and we made good progress. I passed a lot of sites that I recognized from a past life some 45years ago.

As we approached Nürtingen https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%BCrtingen we felt like that we had enough energy (electric & physical) left to go on until Wendlingen. An industrial town with a train station that did not see too much traffic. Still a “S-Bahn” from the greater Stuttgart area reached that place every 20 minutes going further to Kirchheim Teck https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirchheim_unter_Teck at the foots of the Swabian Alb.  A nice place to visit and hike. We preferred to ride the train to Stuttgart main train station and not the “S” Bahn. It reaches Stuttgart on the upper level and we would have an easier way out of the station without fighting elevators or escalators. Unfortunately, the train we were waiting for was again late. “Only” 25 minutes this time. The rest of the day went smooth.

Today I wanted to try to just use the “ECO” motor support to find out what that got me in addition of reserve at the end of the day. I guess I succeeded by having it set up for about 95% of the time and after 83km still had 32km reserve.

2021.05.30 Sunday – Wendlingen/Besigheim

This time I was on my own. Willy had been riding this Part of the trail from here to Stuttgart several times. I just once or twice. Therefore, as I wanted to this time ride the whole Neckar Valley Trail, I opted to do it again. Wendlingen is not necessarily a nice town. I had to ride through the industrial area again to hit the bike trail. It did not take too much time and I was with others on a well-maintained path, that went quite close along the Neckar. As the ride before, also here, were large numbers of flooded quarries. They all had been re-naturalized. Only a few were used for leisure activity such a sailing or swimming etc. with at least one integrated into a camping ground. After a 20 Minute ride I arrived at Plochingen. Still on the left-hand side of the river. I had been here before. Saw again the Hundertwasser building again https://www.hundertwasserhaus-plochingen.de/ and the historic Waldhorn Brewery building. It ceased production in 1995 and is now split up into smaller locations for restaurants and such.

From here the bike path kind of turned into an Autobahn. Through residential or industrial

Areas, even crossing junctions over bridges with spiral access ramps just for bikes. Soon the Mercedes complex came into sight. It took a while until I had passed it and came to Stuttgart Bad-Cannstatt https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bad_Cannstatt . For 2 weeks at the end of September and the first week of October the Cannstatter Volksfest as we call it, is held https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannstatter_Volksfest . It’s the second or third largest Beer Fest in Germany with 4+ Million visitors in the 2 weeks it runs.

Being a Sunday and on the main bike route along the local Neckar section, I certainly was not alone on that bike path. As I left Bad Cannstatt and passed the Max Eyth See https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max-Eyth-See#:~:text=Max-Eyth-See.%20See%20in%20Deutschland.%20Beobachten.%20Bearbeiten.%20Der%20Max-Eyth-See,gelegen.%20Max-Eyth-See.%20%20Max-Eyth-See.%20Geographische%20Lage.%20Baden-W%C3%BCrttemberg%2C%20Deutschland the volume of riders went down and finally I was just about by myself again. The river has itself cut deep into the landscape. It’s one of the nicest areas along the river. My objective today was to reach Besigheim https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Besigheim . I did it in good time, but I was 10 minutes too late at the train station. It meant 50 minutes wait, without much shade. Had to roll and push my bike from the street level down to the passageway and up the stairs to the platform. I was not in the mood to do that again but just wait and hope. The rest was uneventful. Train was on time and the 10-minute ride from the Stuttgart train station back home with the help of the battery easy.

2021.06.08 Tuesday – Besigheim/Neckarelz

I had to clean and organize lot. Yesterday I did not get done with packing my bicycle bags, but just had laid out everything I wanted to take with me.

Today of course I had to pay the price. I still made it in time to the train station to catch the 09:19 train to Heilbronn that stopped at Besigheim. The place I ended my last section of the trail. I entered the rail car with my bike bags mounted. As I tried to get it up the train stairs a young Women asked me if she could help as I was unable to get that bike with the bags mounted up the steps of this old rail car. Keep in mind that to days trip was the first with fully loaded bags and an also fully packed hard shell rear rack trunk. Even though I wanted to take only 8kg with me as in my hiking backpack, I have to admit it’s a tiny bit heavier 😊

As I left the train in Besigheim a fellow biker had to help me to get out of the train car. Lesson learned! I will dismount them in the future and carry them over the shoulders.

I had my “EDGE” Garmin navigation system with me again. Once it was set up and had itself locked itself to the satellites, I left the train station. About 6km down the trail next to the river I felt that the chain jumped a few teeth once per revolution. I stopped, looked (not good enough), called the dealer and he could not help or indicate what was wrong. Another 2km or so the system failed all together, as a chain link broke. Now I knew what went wrong. I double checked but the spare chain member that I had once purchased was not to be found in my repair bag. It must have fallen out the other day when repairing the tire just before Tübingen. Therefore, I started to look at Google Map for the dealer closest to me and started calling. No one wanted to come out and help. The one in Lauffen https://www.lauffen.de/website/de/tourismus was straight the in direction of the trail and was for willing to help at his shop was as I know now 8 or 9km away. When I called, he did not question my assumption of 5km. I still made it in less than 1h. He had told me that at 12 he would shut down the shop for 2,5h lunch. I was lucky as I arrived at 11:50. It had been mostly downhill or even and parallel to the river. At the end they did the job. 20 Minutes and 67€ later at 12:20. I was on my bike again with a new chain mounted.

The part of today’s trail so far was quite nice. The valley was narrow again, with the steep vineyards at boteh sides. The trail paved and in good condition. Only locals on their way to work or school were on the path. Making good distance was easy. Soon I saw the large chimney of the huge coal power plant just outside Heilbronn https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heilbronn . That was also about the time where I got a little bid wet. I did not care and just kept cycling. The wind and temperatures dried my cloths fast. Another 5km or so and the huge AUDI factory complex https://www.audi-mediacenter.com/de/neckarsulm-199 came in sight.  In only 45 minutes or so the sky line of Bad Wimpfen https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bad_Wimpfen came up. The Kaiserpfalz is kept in good condition https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pfalz_Wimpfen  From here it was only 20 km to my hotel for the night outside of Mosbach. Most of todays trail was in wide open space next to the river Neckar. No further villages had to be crossed until finally came close to Mosbach-Neckarelz. But to get there I had to cross the river over a ship lock with my heavy bike. Up and down over stairs again at both ends. My hotel tonight was a Bed & Breakfast named Destille Eisenbahn http://www.xn--haus-der-bernachtungen-0lc.de in Neckarelz. Just the rooms were available. The Distill bar or tasting rooms were not open.

The hotels in general were just a few days ago allowed to open again for touristic travelers. Not all hotels were opening and therefore the booking process was a bit challenging. Another 14 nights or so to organize until I would reach the Netherlands.

The closest restaurant for dinner tonight and my choice was named Capri www.restaurant-capri.com . A mixed tuna salad and a kids size spaghetti Bolognese were my choices. I heard the rumbling but saw no lightning. It came to close and just after I finished dinner and started to write on my diary, I had to check out and start running towards the hotel, otherwise I would have gotten dramatically wet.

2021.06.09 Wednesday – Neckarelz/Neckargemünd

Another day another chance. Today I lost out on the weather. Got caught in the rain 3 times but did not care much about it. Well, it started fine, made good milage and was able to take photos. Again, the bike path was mostly close to the river and mostly paved with some exceptions. Also a few times over the day the path was right on local roads but just a few 100ms to turn off again. Along the whole stretch of today’s stage, camping sites lined up on both sides of the river. So did castles. I will look into this after I return to find out how many there are along the river in total. (I did just that and counted 17 but not sure if that’s all of them https://neckarsteig.de/en/der-steig/burgen-und-schloesser ) Also I passed quite a few locks. Traffic on the river was up, but by far not as much as I saw it last year on the Rhine.

It was Eberbach where I left the track to visit the city. 20 years ago, I had ordered (via phone not online then) a box of chocolates from a patisserie located here – included some vinegar in the recipe. I also saw a piece on local TV some weeks ago, where a young woman, working at a local Café, made here chocolate sommelier degree. First, I checked out the Café Reichspost www.cafe-reichspost.de from, where I believe I ordered those Pralines at the time. They did not have an outdoor seating but Café Victoria www.cafe-viktoria.de , where the young women sommelier worked, did. Well, that was my choice. I just tried a freebee praline, which was made off mare milk. It tasted well, had less sugar, and had a fine cacao note at the and. But before I tried it, I enjoyed a Black Forrest Cake. Unfortunately, the specific cherry spirit was missing ☹ The Late was too white and made via automated machine. Besides that, I think, the coffee beans were not dark espresso roasted quality but more like a flat German coffee. Next time I visit the Café Reichspost. Not sure if it’s much better – besides the Pralines of course.

While sitting and having a break I heard the rumbling but again no lightning. 3km after I left, I was lucky to have the chance to seek shelter in a covered entrance of a closed public open air pool entrance. Once the rain stopped, I thought I was safe, but was wrong. From there on I did not cate any more about getting wet or not I just went on. Over the day 3 x wet and again 3 x dry was fine with me. Also no lightning that I would have had to look for another shelter.

I did not stop at Hirschhorn on the opposite river side, but pressed on. It looked nice from my side of the river but for me now, I just wanted to get into my hotel room that was waiting for me in Neckargemünd https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neckargem%C3%BCnd  in the Art-Hotel  http://www.art-hotel-neckar.de

All in all, only 52km today but while I was at the hotel, I heard 3 rain showers pass. Lucky for me I was inside. After the laundry I took a nap and later left for dinner at http://www.alte-scheune-neckargemuend.de/ for a Tuna Salad and 2 wheat beers. Salad at this place was better than yesterdays. After a nice walk through the various streets with outdoor seating at the restaurants, I went back to my room, wrote my diary, and watched TV.

2021.06.10 Thursday – Neckargemünd/Mannheim

This morning I took it easy. Having had ordered breakfast for 8am at check-in yesterday, I did not hurry. For whatever reason I think hotel guests that ask for a reservation of their bikes will automatically get booked on the 3rd or most upper floor. It was 3rd again as last night. I barely could make it with my 2 saddle bags tied together and hanging around my neck with my battery in one hand and my small and flexible daypack in my right. Felt like an Indian coolie. The mask that one must use while in a hotel did not make it easier to allow my lungs to get sufficient oxygen. I just about collapsed once in the room and today the only benefit was it was going downstairs to get first my breakfast and fort the second run my luggage down to the yard where the bike was waiting for me in a secure area.

It was about 9:30am when I left and of course I took the wrong turn before finally find the starting point of today’s stage.

Again, it went for most of the time on smaller paths but coming closer to Heidelberg I was suddenly on kind of on a Bicycle Autobahn. I am not sure why the hurry for some of them. As they passed me, my hair seemed to be pulled with them. I assumed they must be late or been paid for going that fast. As my next stop in Mannheim was just 40km away, I took it easy but nevertheless pushed with my legs instead of the motor support. My average speed was at 19,7km/h not fast for the once passing me but as a Tourist and an old man as I am, not too bad, I guess.

I again just stopped to take photos. Had not particular images in mind but sufficient opportunities came up. Weather was fabulous. I just hope my sun cream does its job. The first day I had an issue but from there I was adding cream to my face and arms, as if my life depended on it.

At about 13:45 I arrived in Mannheim https://www.mannheim.de/en/discovering-tourism . I got lost in translation, but doing so, was suddenly on a bridge from where I could imagine where the River Neckar finally met the river Rhine. The hotel NXY Mannheim www.nyx-hotels.de/mannheim  for once, had a n elevator and 3rd floor again did not bother me at all.  I swallowed a boiled egg from home, that I carried with me until now, as well as a sandwich roll from this morning’s breakfast. A brief nap followed. Once up and running again I left the hotel to check out Mannheim a bit. What is confusing, are the streets in the old center. Set up square and with numbers instead of street names, as one is used to. The city and I did not really vibrate at the same frequency. The nice baroque Castle is squeezed in between Highways and train tracks https://www.schloss-mannheim.de/en/home . But I found a chance to get a free Covid-19 test that turned out negative. I had been looking for some dinner place and selected the “Schwarzer Adler” http://www.schwarzer-adler-mannheim.de/ . A restaurant in Mannheim since 1733. A very good choice as I know now. The Wiener Schnitzel, one of the best once I ever ate. By now (at hotel) with my 3rd large (0.5L) Spritzer, it was just about the right time to retrieve to the room, get all the homework done and relax for the evening. Tomorrow I want to leave earlier than today. Want to stop at the Dom of Worms https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worms_Cathedral before heading towards the Hotel Rheingold at Gernsheim https://hotel-rheingold.de .

Something I thought about today, as I passed several nuclear and fossil powered power stations was, how many are there along the Neckar. The number I found was 27. I wonder what those cooling waters that are fed back into the river add to the water temperature? Today it was 23C but in 2003 during a heat wave 28°C was reached and consequently lots of fish died.

2021.06.11 Friday – Mannheim/Gernsheim

This morning I was at breakfast at 7am. Was done, had my bags packed and paid by 8:15. Just as I loaded my bike I understood, that I would have to download the new .dxs navigation files for the Rhine Valley trail that I am following from now on. As I write this, I found already out that the USB “A” to USB “B” adapter is at home and therefore I will to have to use my printed map and Google map on my phone to finish the tour. I will just do it the old way.

I started the ride without any motor support for about 25km. My upper leg muscles had improved and as I came into longer stage distances, I want to see how far I come with one charge.

After having left the hotel, I made good progress and came to the point where the river Neckar meets the Rhine. Especially at the other side of the Rhine in Ludwigshafen https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwigshafen  it’s a very heavy industrialized area. Mainly chemical industries. As per the above explained navigation problems I did get lost, ended up at a dead end. The only chance was to wait 1/2h for the ferry to start working or to ride the bike for 5km over a bridge. I did the later.

The bike trail was mostly (as long as I did not lose it) on paved tracks, close to the river with nice views and often through the floodplain forests. The elevated water levels of the river were the results of the widespread rainfalls further south. Some of the trees closer to land were flooded.

I stopped at Worms https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worms,_Germany I was interested in the Dom https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worms_Cathedral for which the city is besides others well known. The Jewish history along the Rhine cities like Mainz, Speyer and Worms is also very interesting https://www.dw.com/de/das-j%C3%BCdische-erbe-von-speyer-worms-und-mainz/g-52044503  I was lucky that right at the time of my visit, close to midday, a service took place – with very few attendees. It was a brief stop. A wheat beer, a coffee, a bruschetta, and an ice cream later I was back in the heat and on my way to Gernsheim, the end of today’s stage. I had a reservation at hotel Rheingold https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Das_Rheingold  It really would, outside the Corona times, been a perfect party location. Off the village, next to the Rhine, …… Next to it was a port with 2 cranes to load/unload river barges with a storage yard and pontoons for private smaller boats/vessels.

Seated at the terrace, I choose to have a wheat beer again before having a nap.  Just before 6pm I was downstairs for a mixed salad with a chicken breast. Had 2 spritzers of which one I took upstairs to drink it while writing this report. As I worked on the trip report, I watched the first game of the Euro 2020 in 2021 between Portugal and Italy.

2021.06.12 Saturday – Gernsheim/Eltville

I started early. And looking backward I do not know why. Breakfast at 7am and at the ferry at 8am. 3 other bicyclists were with me on the ferry (€ 2,50). I choose this alternative route, due to less km in total. I did not get lost without my Garmin Edge this time and made good milage on paved tracks. It was mostly on flood dams and directions and distances were well sign-posted.

Just before Wiesbaden, the alternative track took me across the Rhine again, partially parallel to a motorway. It took me first through industrial areas but later through quiet local neighborhoods. I also passed the Biebrich castle https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biebrich_(Wiesbaden) that Willy and I passed while hiking the Rheinsteig. Nice memories came up. The original path as we hiked it then, below the A 643 Rhine bridge, was still closed. I did not make the same mistakes as we did last year. Once I passed Wiesbaden, it was not far any more from Eltville https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eltville         https://www.rheingau.de/languages/english . That’s where I questioned why I left that early this morning. The path took me again right along the river and some backwaters, through floodplains and very lush green pasture with old trees and reed. For most of the time I had not used any motor support so far but from now with only 9km to go I rode my bike comfortably with motor support. I had called ahead to let the Hotel know I would arrive early. Therefore, as I hit the hotel right at lunch time, my room was ready. Already while searching for my hotel, I realized that the city was quite active with Tourists. The reception of the small hotel was closed. Entry was via phone call and verbal information that allowed me to open the key box at the front door. It contained my room as well as the front door key. But one thing I felt strongly for. That was for some liquid to satisfy my thirst. I had already a few sips from my water bottle but at the time I arrived at the small Hotel Rose http://kleine-villa-rose.de/ I could not hold back any longer. Withing 1h I had swallowed 5 “cold” dry Riesling Spritzer and consequently got tired and fell asleep on the bed for 2h. Having seen so many tourists I doubted that I would get a seat in the open at any restaurant. I tried to make reservations without success. By walking through the small streets of the historic center I looked out for a dinner location and was very lucky to come by a bodega http://www.weingut-koegler.de/ with an large yard, set up as a beer or in this case a wine garden with benches and lots of shade. Food stands with grills for meats and other food items were waiting for the hungry and thirsty – for me!  For the first time in 1 or 2 years I had a nice tasting burger. An Argentinean grill master did a great job. Later after some additional walking and photo shoots I added a flank steak with a small salad. While waiting at the grill I tried to practice my Spanish again. After not having spoken much Spanish for over a year or so, it was not that easy for me.  

2021.06.13 Sunday – Eltville/St. Goar

I had a fantastique sleep last night. The air was cool and crisp. Breakfast was at 8. As always when one has sufficient time, at the end, one is running out of time. Of course, for me it was the same. My luggage not been packed I headed down the steep old and worn-out wooden staircase steps. It went well and I found my seat in a small 2 table wide breakfast room. The others were later seated next to the reception and the entrance door. A really small Hotel 😊.

Breakfast was good and all in sufficient quantity. Finally, I also met Antouny with whom I did all the reservation communication via email. Background was at one point of time Marroquin. It showed, when he asked me to pay cash. (But I have to say that it was not the only hotel on my trip. At least around 10 followed) The bottle of white yesterday was €6,50. Not bad for a bottle of good wine. The price of the bottle of water I don’t remember 😊

By 9:30 am I was on the road. As the days before, I did much without motor support. Today somewhere at around 30km. The track took me again always close to the water. Being a Sunday, the path had to be shared with all sorts of things on legs and wheels. My direction was clearly sign posted. No need for a navigation system. I also was now in an area, Willy and I, walked here last year. Once in Rüdesheim I saw the second river cruise ship this week. Normally about 10 of them stop here a day. This one was not fully booked. A Result of the Corona blues. But after 7 months or so without any boat stopping, I guess for the villages along the Rhine a good sign that business is slowly coming back. I took some photos also of the “Drosselgass”  https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drosselgasse   https://www.drosselgasse.de/en/ At this time of the day only few walked it. By far not as many as in the booming days before Corona.

Here at Rüdesheim I had to cross the river. On the other side at Bingen www.bingen.de/en I came by the hotel Papa Rhein https://www.paparheinhotel.de/en/gastro that I had in mind to stay. Due to the stage lengths and my intention to stay overnight in Eltville, it did not work out this time. I also realized that it was quite full. I guess I would not have made a difference and with my outfit and bike as transportation compared to the high-end cars parked, I would have really sticked out.

All went well and the track generally always downhill. Made good milage again. It was at Bacharach when I opted for a break. Found a nice locking restaurant – Weingut Karl Heidrich  –https://weingut-karl-heidrich.de/ ) with street side seating. I stopped for a large (400ml) Spritzer and some Spundekäs https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spundek%C3%A4s  with a Brezel and a handful of crackers. I think to remember to have had another small Spritzer. In any case it was worth it, the Spritzers and the cheese. It gave me the energy to cover the final distance again without using the motor. Exemption was any uphill section. There I used my saved energy to push me at the front of the que. Also, unfortunately, once in a while the wind came through the tight valley against me. There also, to hold the speed, I used the motor support. After all, when I arrived in St. Goar, I had 83 km left as reserve. I could have gone more but why? Food was good, wine was good, the sun was shining all day. Views were nice – life was good.

Once I checked in in today’s hotel “Zur Post” https://www.hotelzurpost-online.de/de/about-hotel/ I took as by now usually, a nap. Later I walked the village, got some money off the vending machine as todays hotel might ask me also, for a cash payment. At least that’s was my thought. I had at the promenade, what can I say, 2 Spritzers again. As I sat there writing this notes, I looked at the freight ships passing. Names like Nicole, Heilbronn, Bayern, Armada, Van Dyck, Verna, Escape, …… I guess there is no structure, and can the name be used several times by different barges, possibly registered in different countries?? Questions over questions 😂🤣😂 By now I was hungry and went back to my hotel for some good old Croatian / Istrian food. My choice was Cevapcici. The amount of “Yugoslavian” restaurants has declined since the collapse of Yugoslavia and such food items as “doner kebab” replaced them. The guys were Istrians and he sold me some good white wine from there. I enjoyed eating the food. I also felt sorry for the whole village/City. Lots of shops, tailored for the tourists that enjoy the view of the Lorely from the left side of the Rhine, were shut down and empty. Even a butcher shop was for sale. It felt as if the whole place had lost somewhat its identity. The Corona shut down and missing tourists had hit them hard.

2021.06.14 Monday – St.Goar/Andernach

Last night I messed up the TV connection / channels. At around 10pm I decided to give up and just sleep until I would wake up. It was 5:45 this morning and breakfast was at 8am. By 9 I was on my bike and without support made 35km in distance. I felt enormously proud. My upper leg muscles must have improved. My worry now is that as muscles are heavier than fat, I might even gain weight instead of losing it 😭

At Spay http://spay.welterbe-mittelrheintal.de/ a beer garden was open and I choose to take a break. A shandy did the job and later in Koblenz at the “Deutsche Eck” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deutsches_Eck   https://www.koblenz-tourism.com where the Mosel joins the Rhine, I enjoyed my Sandwich Roll that I had taken with me from breakfast this morning. Later in the year I am sure Willy and I will be back at this spot, as we plan to ride the Mosel bike path during the autumn this year and before the next Corona wave shuts everything down again.

The valley started to widen after Koblenz. Before, hill flanks and its castles where the highlights again. Now they are gone. The villages I passed, had partially nice older buildings, but mainly were of modern design and had become suburbs of Koblenz, Neuwied or Lahnstein. At Mühlheim-Kärlich I passed the shutdown nuclear power plant https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%BClheim-K%C3%A4rlich_Nuclear_Power_Plant  https://www.dw.com/en/germany-demolishes-cooling-tower-of-former-nuclear-power-plant/a-49967279   It was only working for 3 years. What a waste of money. It has been converted and modified. I saw a hotel and a Family Park with several rides, …….

Before Andernach an Italian restaurant had a terrace open and a table available for me. A Spritzer and €4.60 later I was on my bike again for the last 8km today. The volume of bike riders or hikers on the common path along the river was all day quite low. The first 10km I just met 3 other riders and 2 women that pushed their baby carts. One could state that traffic at the river was higher than on the bike path. The path itself to 90% separated from the car lanes or to be shared with regular pedestrians. The weather was still sunny and hot and warmer than the last 2 days. The weather report called for even higher temperatures to come. The Hotel Meder www.hotel-meder.de in Andernach was the choice for tonight’s stay. It’s a small family run hotel at the prominent front row facing the river. As per the age of the owners so is their taste. Somewhat past, of wooden alpine character. A bit worn too, but filled with love and decoration that shows the owners love for their work. The recommended restaurant in the main drag was well received. A restaurant owned by a butcher must have good meet. The 2 pieces of pork meat I had with my mixed salad were perfect. After some photo shooting I grabbed an ice cream desert next door. Had lots of cream with it to have the sugar pass somewhat slower into my bloodstream. I doubt it helps but soothes my bad conscience.

2021.06.15 Tuesday – Andernach/Köln-Zündorf

07:30 Breakfast and at 09:15 I was on the trail again. Riding the bike again without support. There were a few more ups and downs coming towards me where I did use support and about 25km later I used the Eco support and I still had after I arrived in Zündorf for the night 65km left in that same mode.

Just About as I started one of my shoelaces broke. One of those elastic once. No chance to buy one while on the road. As a Müller Drug store came up, I went in to get a regular one, just in case. The path as most of the time was close to the river and seldomly went through one of the villages along the track. Once I broke out and just went inside of one of them. It was nice, but streets narrow and not comfortable to ride with 2 saddle bags on the rear wheel. Once more the valley got narrow as I was close to Königswinter just before Bonn. There the path went up and along underneath the railway track. There was not sufficient space next to the road or the river. It was nice to have ridden the trail on the left side of the river. It gave me nice and new views towards the other side where Willy and I had been hiking the Rheinsteig trail from Wiesbaden until Bonn. This time I did the same distance not in weeks but in just 4 days. 90% of the tracks were on paved surfaces. Only little was on gravel. Weather was nice and temps while riding comfortable. I always wore my Japanese thinner than a wind breaker jacket. It had those large inner pockets into which I could put the road book. It was easy to get it and put it back. I had to do this more often than I thought because I did not get the navigation maps on my Garmin. Once I arrived at today’s location Haus Kürten in Zündorf http://www.hotel-haus-kuerten.de/ I, as recommended by the contact at the hotel the day before, took a seat and had  drink at an Italian restaurant next door. As the reception at 3:15 was still not open, I left for a ride through the village and stopped at Daisy’s Tearoom and Garden  http://www.daisys-cafe.de  that served also coffee and waffles. As I arrived back at the hotel, the “reception” was open. It was not more than an envelope with an invoice and money changing hands.  A nap and a dinner at the Italian restaurant followed by also a huge Spritzer and the watching of the EM 2020 in 2021 (Germany – France) before going upstairs to get a good night sleep.

2021.06.16 Wednesday – Köln-Zündorf/Düsseldorf

It was too warm at night and youngsters made a lot of noise. They must not have to go to school or work this morning. It shortened my night and got me going early. Good to make some distance in the heat. By 8am I was again on the road. Had my first stop at Dormagen at the Ratskeller https://www.facebook.com/Ratskeller-Dormagen-172106462839203/ .  Its located right in the downtown shopping district. Some 20 tables set up in a type of beer garden. After 30km it was time to refill my liquids and a Shandy was the choice of the moment. Actually two. One 0.5L & one with 0,2L. All the gasses in there just bloat me up. But a Curry Sausage, a small salad and some French fries did still fit in. Not that I was hungry, but it was one of 2 lunch menu items they promoted, and I just got drawn into it.

The bike path was often in the shade of large trees like in a boulevard style. One row of them protected the bikers also against the cars. Close to Düsseldorf I then had also to cross the Rhine again right next to a motorway. Somewhat a strange feeling but still a safe way to cross it and that fast. The cycling tracks again perfect. Had not seen soft or dirt sections for some days. A stop right after Dormagen followed. Again not that I was in need for an ice cream, it just made sense at the time. It was in a little village named Zons https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zons . It drew me to it as I saw the historic wall, a church tower and some advertisement about an open-air theatre. Not all of the houses were historically correct but a nice setting for an ice cream parlor called “Zonser Eis Manufaktur” One has support such local shops I think – especially Ice Crem Shops 😊 Nothing official but like me they were drawn to this location and also its ice cream shop : https://spoiledberliners.com/index.php/2021/06/03/zons-north-rhine-westphalia-germany/  No more highlights after this. Just reaching Dusseldorf and the hotel Hotel MinGarden https://www.mingarden.de in good condition but tired. 1,25L of Spritzer were immediately consumed at the room. Not much of it ever left me again😊 – at least until now!

But one more positive note. I finally after several attempts made my reservation in Millingen aan de Rijn for the night of Sunday 20th. It’s on a camping site in some sort of wooden bungalow – a new one for me.

2021.06.17 Thursday – Düsseldorf/ Duisburg-Homberg

It felt as if I was the only guest this morning. Breakfast as at some other places to be ordered as a plate the day before. No breakfast buffets. 2 people with 12h shifts ran the reception. It was easy to find my way to the river and to follow the trail. It was not as well indicated, but I was able to follow it and losing the path one time was my benefit, as I ended up in the midst of Uerdingen at the Café “Marktcafe”. Streetside seating and one left for me. After 2h of riding I was thirsty and needed some shadow. I found both there. As I was to pay my coffee, I realized that they had also a Rhubarb cake in their display. So, a coffee and a piece of the pie was the result and worth it. It took me only about another an hour after that stop, to reach my destination Duisburg-Homberg and my hotel for the night – the Hotel Rheingarten https://www.hotelrheingarten.com/en . I was there early, got my room 504 with balcony and view of the river. On the other side I saw some nice historic looking facades and I might go over there for dinner tonight. First, I organized a bottle of wine and a bottle of water. Both I took to my room and consumed it over the afternoon.

The highlights of the day as I was cycling, were not the castles anymore but in continuation of yesterday the chemical plants all the way until close to my current location. Today and tomorrow the stages were short but due to Corona and a lot of hotels between here and also Xanten still had not opened and refused my reservation due to the local situations. Severe weather is in the forecast. I hope that I will not get caught by it and make it dry to Xanten and onwards as I know now until Millingen aan de Rijn and Apeldoorn.

I also thought about my way back after Apeldoorn. Most likely is, that I will take the train from Arnhem to Düsseldorf and from there non-stop to Stuttgart. There is no through going boat service from either Düsseldorf or Köln to let’s say at least Wiesbaden or Mainz. I do not want to have to carry my bike and my luggage more than once a day. But first was now to get something to eat and drink for the evening. I was lucky. A beer garden was just about 100 steps away. It was called Hafensturm http://www.biergarten-hafensturm.de/ Some historic tower was the center of it. They also had a beamer and a screen providing life coverage of the game between Belgium and Denmark. The Danish lost as we know now. The place had a self-service set up. I got myself a mixed salad with a nice amount of pan seared shrimps and some fried potato slices on the side. Certainly, no Belgian or Danish soccer fans on site. The atmosphere was kind of dull. I had my dinner and off I went again to finish my report.  

2021.06.18 Friday – Duisburg-Homberg/Xanten

The 5th or 6th night in a row that was just too hot to sleep well. In the midst of this night a engine noise woke me up. The whole house and air were vibrating on the engine frequency. I was to tiered and lazy to get up and check it out. Like in other hotels during this trip the receptionist did also serv breakfast. Him I asked about the noise. He knew it because he straight away stated that it is from one of the oldest barges on the river. Made sense. At one point in the night, I actually thought once, it might have been an airplane carrier 😉 – due to its noise and slow movement upriver. I originally had ordered breakfast on a plate to be taken to the room. I decided instead to have it on the terrasse. The air was fresh, the sun not too hot yet. All costs had been taken care of yesterday, therefore once back, bags packed I just had to pack up my bike and off I was. The forecast was for showers and thunderstorms. The sky was dark but no dangerous clouds in sight.  I did not trust the situation and did not save any battery percentage as I pushed hard to be in Xanten as fast as I could. I also left the path along the Rhine and went the straight way through most of the distance from village to village. Once as I stopped to get some orientation, I saw marks on the path that I judged to be rain drops but had not felt any just yet. But for sure, as soon as I started to pedal, I felt it on my skin. It did not get serious. 45 minutes later as I was already near Xanten. As I came by a passenger Ferry stop I stopped a restaurant next to a ferry site and decided to have a drink there. Clouds were gone and I was in need for some liquids.

It was easy to locate the hotel Nibelungen Hof https://www.hotel-nibelungenhof.de/en/home  that I am booked in for 2 nights. It was just passed noon when I arrived. I laid down, had my eyes closed but was not tiered enough to fall asleep. An hour later I got ready for a tour of the city. I stopped first at the Tourist Office, got some verbal hints and other printed information. The “Siegfried” Museum was next door and my first stop. When slowly moving through the exhibits the saga came back to me https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sigurd . I also briefly checked out the open-air archaeological site where lots of roman history artifacts were found and is part of what Xanten is famous for.

By coincidence, the Dom  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xanten_Cathedral entrance was next to the museums exit door. Still open and interesting. I learned that it was heavily damaged during the war. The interesting part was the number of local heroes that had been standing up against the Hitler regime but consequently had to pay the ultimate price. Some were declared Saints later. By now I had some graving for a coffee and cake. I found it.

After all the walking and the strawberry cake, I was again in need for a rest. Temperatures had been again at 35C. I followed the EM game between Slovenia and Chechia on TV. A bit to tough I felt and started to search on my tablet for a solution about my return trip on the 23.6. I did not come to a conclusion, even after talking, after a 20-minute wait, to a DB representative. Last thing today was dinner at the hotel. Some “Vietnamese” Sashimi and Sate. I should have eaten a Salad or Burger instead. When asked I told the waitress my thoughts in a smooth, nice way, that I am famous for.

2021.06.19 Saturday – Xanten

At 09:45 right after breakfast I walked to the LVR-Archaeological Park  https://apx.lvr.de/de/willkommen/willkommen_1.html (here the German site. You can change it to English, but as of today on the English site it’s still closed due to Covid 🤔) It has a wall around the site where at the roman time the city wall was. It’s a huge area. Reconstructions have been created such as parts of a temple, the Amphitheater, as well as gates. There is also large archeological museum https://apx.lvr.de/en/lvr_roemermuseum/lvr_roemermuseum.html At a small coffee shop nearby one can complete the visit. I had a coffee and a small ice cream bar. On the way back to the hotel under a just about unbearable sun, I went by the local small train station to see if I could learn something about the reginal train ticket selections for my return trip from Arnhem. It was not the case. On I went back to the hotel to get out of the sun. I also checked all day about the rain situation nearby on the front coming from France. I was laying on the bed, drowsy but again, did not fell asleep. I watched TV and left in search for a café. Once I felt comfortable with one, I enjoyed a nice cappuccino and added a cheesecake waffle with blueberry and some whipped creme. Parallel I looked at train schedules, called service numbers and felt at the end comfortable with using the train system to get back home. I think as to take stress off me, I would leave in the evening of the 22nd from Arnhem to Duisburg and the next day on a direct train to Stuttgart. I could be home at 3:30pm. The only question is, is it possible to take the bike on the train. As I went through the online process, I was lucky and found my way through it well and could reserve a space for my bike and a seat for me also. A relaxing moment to know I found a way back home on a direct train from Duisburg without much complication on the way.

Today was the second game for the German team during the EM 2021. They performed better and to the satisfaction of most Germans, I think.

2021.06.20 Sunday – Xanten/Millingen aan de Rijn

We had some strong thunderstorm passing through at about midnight. The rain came with it. Again, a night with little sleep. It was just too warm. I left after breakfast at 09:30 and in dry condition and a bit lower temps with good speed. Sky was quite dark, and I was not sure how long it would hold. Fortunately, all day with even the blue sky coming through. The wind blew quite strong, and it was the direction causing the issues. For about 50% of the time, I faced it head on. I used the motor support to get somewhere. Once it came from the side or from behind it was an easy task to get higher speeds. Most of the tracks were on the crown of the dams therefore the wind really got any bike rider. The flood plains were quite wide in relation to the Rhine width. Several dams interacting with each other were designed pretty strong. I wondered how often the dams really were tested in the past years. Also came by the former Kalkar Power station. I saw from far a cooling tower and later when closer also a hotel and a well visited Family Park with several rides https://www.wunderlandkalkar.eu/en/park-info

About 40km into today’s stage I unwillingly messed up with Millingen aan de Rijn (Netherlands) and just Millingen (Germany). Did not know there were two of them that close. I choose to use a ferry to cross the Rhine’s arm for €2 just to realize 15 minutes later that I was off track. This mistake of mine cost me about 7km in addition to a 10km detour due to a road construction going on.

In Emmerich I stopped for lunch. A river city with a chemical plant right next door. Estrella’s Cantina it was called. The waitress/Owner’s accent was Dutch and food a mixture of the world popular fast-food items. Most of the meat or fish items were deep fried. I choose some doner kebab with French fries (both of course deep fried) and a bit of a salad. Had 2 small Shandies with it.

I did not waste much time there after lunch and pushed on. About 1,5h after lunch I dropped into a Cafe that came up at a ferry site and realized that I unknowingly had passed into the Netherlands.  Everybody spokes Dutch around me. I made it into the Netherland – Yeah!

From here I saw already the houses and church of Millingen aan de Rijn (sorry, no real description of this village on the internet worth to add) where I would stay for the night. I ordered a cappuccino and a Dame Blanche Ice cream and left soon again to find the camping ground close by, where I would stay the night. All day the sun was partially out and once I found the place About 2km outside the village asked for a shady hut that I had reserved 2 days before.  Check in was quick, but no vending machine in the common center, just refrigerators to store once own food items. Therefore, once I had my luggage off the bike I rode back into town because I had seen one drug store and an ALDI open as I passed them coming into the village. I did get 2 premixed Shandies and 3 bottles of water as well as a bag of natural mixed nuts. My main menu dinner item today would be the sandwich roll I made this morning for the trip. Unfortunately, at around 6pm it started to rain. First a bit like sprinkling, later as a harder poor down. After showering I made it relatively dry back into my hut for the night. The bike was already prepared, battery inside the hut and recharging. In the middle of the night, at 3am, I had to get up, get the sleeping bag and open the zipper of it to create a kind of a blanket. The cotton inlay was due to the dropping temperatures, not warm enough anymore. All night long the rain pounded onto the huts roof. Luckily, I fell asleep again while thinking about what to do in the morning if it was still raining in the same the same intensity. 

2021.06.21 Monday – Millingen aan de Rijn/Arnhem

I woke up again at 8am. It seemed that the spiral metal springs that supported the bed/ mattress was at the end a better combination than other systems I had to sleep on in the last 10 days. The Weather looked bad, and I did not speed up much with my morning routine and hopped that the rain cell might pass and dry out. Breakfast was no option either. There were besides left-over nuts, nothing to eat. Around. At approx. 10am, I dressed up with what I had taken with me for such weather conditions. This meant I accepted that my hiking trousers would get soaking wet und also dry fast in the wind while cycling. I had no overshoes as rain covers for my footwear, but my upper body and head were packed up waterproof. The women at the reception mentioned, as I checked in to take the Ferry in Millingen, the printed guide I had did the same, but the Fietsroutenplaner (special Dutch bike path map and best trail engine for LF-Routen (Long Distance Bike Routes)   https://www.hollandcyclingroutes.com   App showed me another route. Being a specialized App I trusted it and ended up cycling 11km for nothing, as the ferry they recommended, did not operate on Mondays and especially in June (at least this was my understanding of the Dutch information at the site). Once back in the rain in Millingen I got lucky, as I was the last of 7 cyclists on the little Ferry driven and managed by the captain himself. From there on it was straight forward to Arnhem and its very modern and well-integrated central station. It was Ed’s & Stan’s recommendation that, by this kind of weather, I should store the bike in the railway station and Stan would pick me up from there, for the night at his place. That was what I was shooting for. The rain stayed with me until about 10km before Arnhem. That 10km was sufficient for the wind to dry my trousers. My upper body was kept dry and warm by my multi-layer rain and insulation gear. But as I stepped off the bike to enter the bike parking system, I felt that my shoes were at least 1cm under water. No entry ticket needed I just had to lower a rail system from the upper level, mount the empty bike, secure it and lift and push the rail back into position. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bike+storage+system+in+netherlands+train+station&&view=detail&mid=FD8008CC7D8E3D221E8DFD8008CC7D8E3D221E8D&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dbike%2520storage%2520system%2520in%2520netherlands%2520train%2520station%26qs%3Dn%26form%3DQBVR%26sp%3D-1%26pq%3Dbike%2520storage%2520system%2520in%2520netherlands%2520train%2520station%26sc%3D0-48%26sk%3D%26cvid%3DA9487B6DAB004619861B5B544E08DA83

The attendant told me that I should come back the next day when I pick it up and juts tell that I checked in the day before at 12:30 and pay the fee.

Stan picked me up at the other side of the station where stopping was easier. Unfortunately, without a ticket I had to circle the train station to reach the other entrance/exit.

It was a quick drive that covered the 30km distance between Arnhem and Apeldoorn and I must admit much more comfortable than riding a bike. Once at Nita’s and Stan’s place I could do my laundry and change into fresh cloths again.

Ed joint us, to watch the Netherlands soccer team win against the North Macedonian team during the EM2021. The pleasant evening ended after a light dinner at Fong Sheng.

2021.06.22 Tuesday – Apeldoorn /Arnhem / Duisburg

After a good night’s sleep and breakfast Stan and I walked for an hour or two through the spacious park close by. The Monkey Park we passed was closed. The end of the interesting walk was at the Terrace of the Restaurant De Boschvijver https://www.restaurantdeboschvijver.nl  for a cup of coffee and to come up with a plan for the rest of the day. Apeldoorn itself is a nice city. As old trees are very prominent in certain parts, an impression is created as one would be in a huge park – would there not be the streets and cars.

After a light lunch with Nita, we parted, and Stan went back with me to the Arnhem train station. It is a very futuristic but well integrated new train station https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arnhem_Centraal_railway_station . By doing so Stan also learned about a new pick-up/drop-off location. Buying a ticket to Duisburg was easy as I had asked my questions the day before – ticket to Duisburg and an extra ticket for the bike / just short of €20. The regional rail transport company Abellio, a regional subsidiary of the Dutch NedRailways, has an hourly service between Arnhem and Duisburg. It only took 1:30h to cover my 2-day bicycle ride distance.

Once in Duisburg, the Wyndham Hotel I had booked, was easy to find. I enjoyed a light meal with a shandy and went back upstairs to finish off the day with some writing and watching TV.

2021.06.23 Wednesday – Duisburg / Stuttgart

Not much to write about the return trip to Stuttgart by train. I had booked the trip 2 days earlier (€89) and had a reservation for seat and bicycle. The nicest part was again the ride along the left bank at the middle Rhine section. Same side I came up. It is the part with the steep slopes, lots of hard to work on vineyards, the castle, and the picturesque wine villages, that were hard hit by the Corona Pandemic as Tourists were cut off from traveling. The ride took only 4h and I ended up in Stuttgart with some rain in the forecast. I made it uphill dry and was quite relieved to be back home, sleep again in my own bed and hopefully be back in my old routine before heading towards Spain in 2 weeks with my rented Camper Van. The Delta Version of the Covid-19 virus is spreading now also faster in Germany. I just hope the situation does not mess up my travel plans.

It was after some 45years my first multiple day bike tour again. I enjoyed it. But as with hiking, at the end of the day, there is not enough energy left, to see the surrounding interesting sites, after arriving, which I had in mind, when planning this trip. Therefore, the thought came up to repeat the trip via Camper Van including the bike and stop at those locations of interest for me and finish the tour along the Rhine from Arnhem to Hoek van Holland and on through the rest of the Netherlands that I am interested in and on my list already.

No one can state that the Mid Rhine is not a touristic area. However, most of any website I wanted to integrate a link did not have an English version. Therefore, If business goes backward, I have to say I don’t have much sympathy for these ignorant that did not try to please any foreigner, that visited their website, at least in English.