Elba – https://www.visittuscany.com//en/areas/elba-and-tuscan-islands /
Sardinia https://www.italia.it/en/sardinia
Sep. 12. Tuesday / Stuttgart to Cavalese
It was already 10am when I was ready, but then different small things came up and it was 10:30 by the time I left.
Dropped a WIWO magazine off at Willys.
Filled the car in Senden at the Inhofer furniture store with Diesel. Stopped at Heimertingen for 1 salmon trout.
Next stop should have been at Dietmannsried, but the access road after the exit off the highway to the Cafe/Bakery I had in mind, was blocked. Purchased a Horseradish Sause for the trout at Aldi and went on to the next Highway entry point. From there through to the Austrian boarder where I purchased a 2 weeks highway sticker. Passed through Austria without stopping.
While on the Autostrada in Italy I stopped for a coffee to stay awake. I was impressed by a photo of the Stella Group. A stunning and impressive granite formation that I will have to visit in the future https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group https://www.sudtirol.com/en/south-tyrol.htm
Had a small problem now for the next 100km or so. I bought a vignette for the Austrian motorways but my Google Maps kept taking me along the local country roads. Became suspicious and checked my settings. Lo and behold, “no toll roads” had been set. That ended up costing me an hour.😱😭
As I had to find out the hard way, I had booked my hotel in Bolzano exactly 4 weeks later😱😱😱 for 12.11. Now I had to book something new. Of course, cheap 50€&45km southeast of Bolzano. Hotel Panorama https://www.panoramacavalese.it in a village called Cavalese. I had to cross the Kalterer See or Lago di Caldaro Region to reach it. It’s a beautiful wine region. On Booking you can’t see the details as well as on the map. It was the exact same situation as 1 year ago. Didn’t see that there were donkey trails in this beautiful wine region. They were steep and narrow. I’m already afraid of the way back tomorrow😂
With a caravan or motorhome, I would have gotten stuck on such roads. I arrived just in time for dinner. It was a natural schnitzel with vegetables and salad from the buffet. It included also a Crema Catalán and 1/2 liter of house wine. You’re on vacation I thought. Tomorrow breakfast is at 7:30a.m. Maybe I can meet with Sven. They are at a campsite just north of Piombino, from where I will cross to Elba. It’s practically on the way. Should be enough time for a beer.
Sep. 13. Wednesday / Calvese to Lacona
Breakfast at 07:15. Check out at 8am. Straight downhill towards the highway and on to Trentino, Verona, Modena, Bologna and Florenz. By that time, I realized that it would be a very short stop to meet with Sven. Did not want to get in a stressful situation at the Port and opted against a visit. Approx. 1:30h early I arrived at Piombino, had time to get Diesel and parked on the Moby Ferry Line pier. All happened on time. The crossing to the island of Elba just took 1 hour. I went to the Coop shopping center and purchased some Water and Eggs. I arrived at my Tallinucci camping site http://www.campingtallinucci.it/ in Lacona https://visitelba.info/en/beaches/lacona-beach/ at 6:30pm and started immediately with the setup of my Camper Van with its awing and securing it for any heavy wind situation. Hammering done with a too small of a hammer onto my peg one neighbor felt sorry for me. Gave me a “real” hammer and a strong peg which he told me I could purchase at the kiosk on site. The camp site was set up by using rocks and sand. Most of my pegs were anker screws. Used a battery powered tool to get them into the ground. I know now that it survived all winds that hit the camp site. Unfortunately, I realized, that I had forgotten to pack the specialty coffee pads for my coffee machine. Still within the valid patent time therefore not available at shops but just at Nestlé. Later I met with Gabi & Klaus and some of their friend which I met last year also. Had some drinks and was invited for dinner.
The Flag of Elba was created during Napolean’s times in power and shown the first time when arriving on Elba at the highest point of the Port town of Portoferraio – Forte Falcone – May 4th 1814.
Sep. 14. Thursday / Lacona
Slept very well. Decided to just have water before starting to ride my E-Bike. Did not find the Parque Ferme of the Storic Rally Elba at Porto Azzurro. No mayor stop there. Preferred it at the Open Air Acquarilli Bar https://instagram.com/acquarilli_bar . It sits on a ridge that reaches into the sea. All “seats and similar items” are just placed on the soil. Decoration, possibly off the junkyard, completed the impression. Drinks were sold through a window of a Caravan. No toilets and not many bushes. If the whole setup was legal🤷♀️ Nobody cared, but had fun. Later in the evening Rüdi one of the friends played his magic with one 4pound cutlet (€36) and a 3-pound T-Bone. He got it to the point, and it tasted wonderful. No BBQ sauce needed. Again, wine and beer was sufficiently available.
Sep. 15. Friday
Today was Marketday in Portoferraio. I was in search of the Ruggeri Delicatessen shop. Found it but felt it was too small compared to my memory of last year’s visit. I also visited partially the old town. With the goodies from Ruggeri, I returned to the girls and while walking the market again a bit, I also purchased a Tuscan Salami. Back at the camp site, we went to have a late lunch with the goodies and some wine I purchased. Also threw in some delicatessen that I brought with me in the Van. A lazy afternoon and evening followed. A ½ a BBQ Chicken from a food truck on site with fried veggies were the choices for dinner.
Sep. 16. Saturday
Today’s “Storic Rally Elba” stage passed by right in front of the Camp Site https://www.rallyelbastorico.com/. The drivers had to drive through twice in the morning and also in the afternoon. Klaus and I watched it twice. I made my photos and videos from two different positions. The second position was better, as after a straight section ended, where we were positioned, with a 90° left corner. Only one driver had to do a 360° to get back into the proper direction. One had a flat tire. We could watch them changing the complete wheel and at the same time refresh our skill. All in all, a nice experience. Next time no more photos. Around 7pm we had dinner within the Stella Mare Campground. It was a 20 minutes’ walk http://www.stellamare.it/ . It was a weekend. Nicole, a longtime camper here, was able to get us into Dal Capitano https://www.stellamare.it/de/restaurant/ . A nice location with views over the bay and also good service and food. The camp sites here are all up hill and on terraces. Many with nice views but always a walk down hill to the beach.
Sep. 17. Sunday
Slept quite long today. Possibly the walks and alcohol last night might have tired me. In the meantime, my morning routine included to first go to the camp kiosk and get myself 2 cups of a very good Cappuccino for @ €1,70. No need to have a coffee machine with me in the future. Just costs me space. Changed into my hiking gear and walked towards Lacona. There was a small market in full swing. I passed it and it was around 12:10 when I started my walk circular hike up hill on the Capo di Stelle. Sometime small paths with dense shrubs, followed by quite nice and wide prepared forestry roads. By 2:25pm I was back at its foot and the White Hole (was not my idea😉) https://whiteholebyzello.business.site Refilled my system with 2 beers and a sandwich. In the coming days I want to go a different route by bike if possible. On the walk back to my camp site I purchased some BBQed chicken wings and legs as well as steamed and seasoned veggies. This for dinner after a nap till 6pm. Later I refilled my stock on Sardinian Ichnusa Beer and went on to meet up with friends again. No more food for me today.
Sep. 18. Monday
All day it was unsure if it would be raining or not. Around 3pm I concluded I don’t care anymore and saddled my bike. The goal was to get over the hill to the airport and finally to Procchio https://www.virtualelba.com/country-locality-elba/procchio/ . It’s a bay like here in Lacona just smaller but with nice sandy beaches. There was quite a number Bars and Restaurants to feed the hungry and the thirsty. The ride was just about 22km long and no problem for me nor for my battery. Had dinner (Omelet) next to my Van under the awning. It was still quite humid. Walked the beach a bit. The strong wind and waves had eroded the beach and had pushed seaweed onto the beach edge.
Sep. 19. Tuesday
Another cloudy day. I was in biking mode again. I left on my bike for Capoliveri https://www.visittuscany.com/en/towns-and-villages/capoliveri/ . A 250m increase. The route provided by Komoot was getting me into trouble as a nice path changed to a small and steep uphill dirt track between scrubs and bushes. Once up on the hill and the touristy town, I walked it in search of a t-shirt made of synthetic fibers with a nice print. I was unsuccessful but was able to get myself 3 large and hard but ripe peaches. Later at Cafe Rodriguez 2 Birra Moretti “La Zero” beers and a nice mixed salad. For dinner we went later to the Cavallino Rosso Pizzeria www.facebook.com/CAVALLINOROSSOLACONA . Had a lovely bouillabaisse like dish “Mare Caldo” for €13 and pasta Tortellini Ragu €9 with a glass of Ichnusa -unfiltered for €11. All😋
Sep. 20. Wednesday
Got my 2 Cappuccinos again. Stayed closed to my Van until after 2pm when the weather calmed down. Until then it was quite wet. But from there on it was a getting better by the hour, so to speak. However, the clouds stayed with us. Got into my Sardinian tour book and had also a nap. Late afternoon I walked with the group of friends 50m or so and had a drink or two at the Beach Club il Cantone https://www.facebook.com/beachclubilcantone Dinner followed at the Van. A few slices of Tuscany Salami followed by stewed Beef Cheeks with rice and a beer or two. By now it looked as if tomorrow would be a nicer day. Met acquaintances from Gabi & Klaus, Richard & Christa from Bavaria as well as Peter & Edith from CH that I remembered from last year.
Sep. 21. Thursday
Was on my bike again. Going on SP30 from Lacona to where it meets the SP26. Took it and turned right after the Golf course and followed the road to Schiopparello and the SP32. Before and now up hill there were nice photo opportunities towards Portoferraio. Passed the Volterraio Fortress below www.museiarcipelago.it/en/musei/fortezza-del-volterraio At 327m altitude I took some time to rest and also take some photos towards Rio Marina where a ferries from the mainland arrived. In the background the Island of Corsica. Also over the bay towards Portoferraio. From here downhill to Rio nell’Elba www.elbalink.co.uk/elba/rio-nell-elba . Had a beer (Messina) and a warm sandwich at Bar di Sotto at Piazza del Popolo https://www.facebook.com/people/Bar-di-Sotto/100063043491527/ Before I left I visited the church and saw 2 modern pieces of Art showing Jesus on the cross. Very unusual. During my stroll through the village, I had a view to a port to which I thought I was going to after l was back on my bike, when choosing the roads, I did. It was not the case. I found out a short time later, that I was on my way to Porto Azzurro. By then I was not in the mood anymore to go back up hill and down to the sea level just to later return the same way – uphill again. It was Rio Marina. I put it onto my list “to visit” on Elba. I had one more stop at the Bar Acquarilli described already in my notes of September 14th. Today Rüdi had organized 2 Ribeye’s again. Similar in weight as the other day. Both were excellent again and together with the salads and drinks it was a fantastic and entertaining ending of the day.
Sep. 22. Friday
As last Friday we left at 10 to 10 and were in Nicol’s Van on the way to the market in Portoferraio. I was looking for some short trousers and some t-shirts for the kids. I was unsuccessful with both. Instead, I walk the city a bit closer to the Harbour. Saw the La Centrale Gourmet Place and went downstairs of it, to the Eurospin Supermarket. I enjoyed to get a closer look at the items offered. Purchased hat I thought was a of 6 small wine bottles. Later I found out it was a bag in a box filled with a red wine. Once the grocery and food shopping was done, we drove home and arrived just as it started to rain. Spend the time in/near my Van. Ate 2 of the 4 chicken legs and some veggies that I had purchased at the Eurospin, had a few nips of red wine and went into the Van and read my messages because I had forgotten to take the phone with me to the market. It looks as if the weather does not improve much in the coming hours. The rain stopped and I decided then not to get ½ chicken but would just eat my 2 chicken legs left over and the veggies instead, while streaming the “NUHR” Show and having a few drinks with it. The scene of that moment is the only photo I took today. That’s what happens if one forgets its phone or camera😁
Sep. 23. Saturday
Woke up early and it looked like we would get a beautiful day. A clear view towards the Island of Montecristo. And yes, that’s the one everybody knows from the books or movies “The Count of Monte Cristo” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montecristo . Early on I decided to have another bike ride again. Pomonte https://www.infoelba.com/discovering-elba/municipalities-towns/marciana/pomonte was the goal. Another try to establish the max. possible distance of my bike/battery in a hilly area as on Elba. All went well. Had a beer there, looked on towards Corsica straight ahead from where I sat on a sea wall with my beer. Looking back towards Lacona I saw some dark clouds and felt it was time to turn around. By the time I was in Marina del Campo I had used about 2,5 meaning 50% of my 5 line battery capacity indicator. By now the rain that I saw earlier at Seccheto in the sea had reached land and the roads were partially wet. Pulled my Rain jacket over and went up hill towards the Passo del Monumento at 253m with the highest motor support. From there downhill, the jacket stopped the cold air reaching my wet t-shirt. Later while on the campground, it started raining a bit more seriously but stopped at around 4pm. By 5.30pm we met and left for Capoliveri and the Restaurante Oasi, Via Silvio Pellico 4, +39 0565 968841. We had to circumference the whole village to find a parking spot. I had a Tuna & Bean with onion salade, flat pasta with wild boar ragu, followed by a sea bass. Much too much food but it was all worth it. To end the evening, I masked my Diabetes issue and indulged scoop of a balsamic lime ice cream from one of the many ice cream parlors close by.
Sep. 24. Sunday
Woke up to another picture-perfect day. Had a nice walk with Gabi and dog Emma. Emma is a nice dog but walking and having to pass cats and other dogs is quite stressful. I had my first 7000 steps for today already after the walk. Went on to the market in Lacona and on the way asked for the cost of a renting a scooter or car. Around 40€ for a scooter or a car for 70€ all day. Unfortunately, the booking has to be done one or two days ahead and for me that is not what I like doing. I prefer to be spontaneous. I kind of lean towards using my car. Having the bike stored in the back of the Van days before departure I’ll use my car to further explore the island. On I went to the local Sunday market and for another coffee with a prosciutto/Mozzarella sandwich with some rucola. Got also 300€ off the ATM machine and went back to the Camper. Took my medication, a beer and walked to Schieler’s for a chat.
Sep. 25. Monday
Today was boating time. Rüdi invited me for a boat ride on his rubber motorboat with his new 40 but in reality “60” HP engine. Quite a stormy boat ride as soon as we came around a corner. Waves were quite high. We made it a bit wet to Porto Azzurro. Had a drink and a toilet stop, before we visited our bay in front of our camping site. Gabi saw us and came out on her stand-up paddling device. Back at mooring position we went back in Rüdi’s car and got ready for the daily activities and later for dinner. I went on my own to Cavallino Rosso. A antipasti plate and a Pizza Prosciutto & quatro formaggio it was. It was quite windy tonight and the others had already moved inside therefore I did too.
Sep. 26. Tuesday
Had a good night’s rest and was again in a biking mood after my two cups of coffee. The goal was to visit the tongue on which the historic village of Capoliveri. Is located. Lots of Cross Country bikers that kind of looked semiprofessional in their suits and helmets crossed my path. The path I followed provided by Komoot was quite uneven and rough in various grades. I learned that here on this terrain BMX Championships are fought out Further out on the ridge I came by the Hotel Tenuta delle Ripalte www.tenutadelleripalte.it/en that also included a vineyard. I stopped and found the tasing room. https://shop.tenutadelleripalte.it/en Shopped a bit and selected the sweet Aleatico delle Ripalte and 2 bottles of prosecco. They all fit into my carrier case. From there it went downhill. Passed the mining museum and a food truck next to it. I had to stop. Not just about the food truck😂But I passed on the museum. It will be on the list for the next visit on Elba. The sandwich was good so the beer. Purchased a mineral as a souvenir in the museum shop and went on. For dinner we all went back to the dell Capitano Restaurant.
Sep. 27. Wednesday
Two days ago I put my name on the list for a guided walk in the Lacona bay and Capo die Stelle area. We were a group of just shy of 40 German speaking people from 3 different camping sites. A Ranger, as it’s a National Park, was with us to explain the different plants and geological details from Elba. Mining https://fernwehmotive.de/en/elba-minen-capoliveri/ and such was going on for centuries but just about 20 years ago came to a halt. Once back at Lacona we went to Azienda Agricola Regali Rurali. www.regalirurali.it A woman from Sicily did visit the island some 20 years ago, fell in love, stayed and did what she always wanted to do. Have a sheep farm and produce Bio Products for the local market. A local smaller wine producer was here too so we could try some wine and cheese at the same time. I purchased a small amount of cheese and had it vacuumed and will carry it in the Van fridge back to Germany. The wine from the island I don’t really like. It has a strong note of minerals in it, that I am not in favor of. Dinner was again at Cavallino Rosso. Seafood and Pasta with a glass or two of white wine (I take it from the photos I made after the fact, as I go into more details about my trip, 3 weeks after I arrived at home).
Sep. 28. Thursday
2 days before my departure. Time to do housekeeping and washing. Drying the cloths on a sunny day and in a warm air flow, within very short time. Emptied out the loading area of the van, made my bike ready, lifted and mounted it in position and also took care of all the other items I did not need in the coming 2 weeks on Sardinia but put all the item I needed in reach as the movement and opening of cabinets was not always possible due to the bike inside. Decision was taken, that this was the last time I would do it. Next time it will be on my bike carrier mounted on the trailer hitch. In between I had a small lunch and later an afternoon drink at the Beach Bar next door. For dinner for the 3rd and last time all were keen to eat the marvelous Steaks from Rüdi’s suite case gas grill. I think just fur this experience its worth to come back to Elba again. All the time we did not see many mosquitoes or wasps etc. But today I allowed one wasp to share my slice of meat. Later 2 neighbors joint in bringing a very good Grappa (Verdú Bevanda Spiritosa from Masari Wines www.masari.it with them. Even I liked it.
Sep. 29. Friday
So far, I had ridden my bike a few times, hiked or was driven with the girls to the Market in Portoferraio. After I had reorganized my Van, bike and all the rest I decided to take it and drive a bit around the island. This was my way of saving the €70+ for a rental car. I visited Rio Marino that I saw earlier, while with the bike at the time in Rio nell’Elba. It had some nice corners but was not really interesting. From the beach, the Italian mainland was in clear sight. By ferry like from Portoferraio just a 1h cruise. Outside of this small town I saw some closed mining site with all its structures. I was also lucky to see the ferry to Piombino and the island of Pianosa which leaves from here. But otherwise not much that would draw me back. On I went back up hill passing Rio nell’Elba (very happy that I went the wrong road the other day) and via very small and curvy roads back along the coast with nice views to Calvo. Just stopped briefly. It’s a bit upscale to the Lacona area. Hotels, Guesthouses etc. I felt it showed, as most of the Tourists were my age group or older. Not many kids around either. If, then being with their grandparents. From there, passing through or by Nisporto, Bagnaia, Magazzini, Schiopparello to Portaferaio where, at the outskirts in a hardware store, I found my “large” hammer, that (as of today 05.10.) I did not have to use at all. As in the coming days I would not stay longer than 3 nights at the same camp site. Not having to secure the awing etc. for bad weather. During the days I will be on sightseen tours. Off I went to Biodola where I did not find a spot to park the car. Decided then and it was confirmed on Sardinia that I need another type of vehicle than my bike when going camping next time. Parking is no issue with a small E-Scooter or such with a let’s say 100km driving distance. With the bike I still can exercise on nearby paths. (I changed my mind again, as I looked into the cost and weight, distance possible to travel etc… I will still take my bike with me but also rent a scooter in between. For 40 to 60€ a day, I can rent something several times and don’t have to look after it later). Finally, I reached Procchio where I had been with the bike a week earlier. Parking no issue. Finding a place at the beach for a coffee and a sweet neither. Back at the camp site it was chicken night. Ordered mine one for 6:30pm with some fried veggies. Both very nice to eat and tasty. I consumed it while being with Silvi and Rüdi. Had the rest of my red in a bag in a box. For the others it was a pizza night at Cavallino Rosso. They make good once. Thin crust and good ingredients. As the two returned we looked a bit into the Grappa’s that have been accumulating. Just took 2 nips and let it be.
Sep. 30. Saturday
Travel day. I first had my breakfast (2 cups of Cappuccino to go & one croissant) followed by the general morning routine. The back of the van was full of the stuff I brought with me including my bike and what I purchased to take home. More of that to come for sure when on Sardinia. After the Camper Van was all ready to go, I said goodbye to my friends and left towards Portoferraio. Parked the van in line for the ferry, locked it and went to purchase 3 postcards and also 3 stamps at the post office. The last time I saw them was, when I purchased a sandwich and a coffee for lunch on the ferry😂. (That’s what I thought. They were in a book and during the last day on Sardinia I dropped them off at the Post Office). On arrival in Piombino I set the navigation system back to avoid Motorways and followed a local road along the coast towards Livorno. Tall pine trees lined up along the road not far from the sand dunes and the sea. At one point I stopped to take some photos. The landscape was very Tuscany. Rolling hills sometimes topped by a castle like building, with Cypresses sprinkled on the slopes, …….. At one time I saw many huge advertisements next to the road and always the word “Bolgheri” At one time there was right turn for Bolgheri. I was too fast and saw it too late, therefore I had to turn around as I was interested to see what that was all about. Just after I turned off, I saw an historic Alfa Romeo Convertible next to the road, with people, cameras and more around it and of course young & beautiful women. Also, some young fellows dressed up in historic looking clothing. Thought about a wedding or photo shooting for some clothing line, but never really found out about it. Not much later I saw an old castle type building in front of me at the end of the road. Lots of “No Parking” signs and after not seeing police for 2 weeks suddenly a lot of them. Found an official parking spot, paid my dues and walked up to the village of Bolgheri www.visittuscany.com/en/towns-and-villages/bolgheri Some call it also a hidden gem in the heart of the Etruscan Coast. It certainly had some history in it. But at some point, lost its virginity, certainly not its charm, and turned into a tourist attraction with all the shops, restaurants, cafes, Ice Cream Parlors to keep tourists flocking into it. I too purchased 2 souvenirs – for my sisters. The only other place I stopped on the way out was the church. It was a short drive to Livorno from here. Sometimes long lines of cars parked, squeezed towards the sea, off the road. I assume there were nice beaches worthwhile hiking downhill the steep slopes. Google Map brought me correct to the dock/ferry entry gate. It was still closed. Information barely available. 45 minutes later, I just followed others and succeeded by getting in after showing my reservation and ID. By now an initially indicated travel time of 1:30h became a 5h enjoyable trip. The wait before boarding the Grimaldi ferry www.grimaldi-lines.com/en to Sardinia was about 3:30h. There were a Café and Toilets dockside in a building. Both of what I needed. Later I did get a coffee and a small sandwich. First meal of the day. Once on board I dropped my luggage next to my Lounge Chair. Went to the reception and was put onto a waiting list for a cabin. I had preordered a dinner on board. Now I know I will not do it again. One has to be in front of the line to get fast service and that’s true if prepaid or not. Not big of a selection available either and the food just to serve the hungry. Not for the eye nor the taste buds. For a first-time cruiser on an overnight ferry, I had to ask far too many questions. Information was not provided sufficiently. As they most likely do it every day, for me it was the first time. This in addition to the Italian/English pronunciation, kind of had me lost often. I did get lucky with the cabin 1/2h after the ship left port. Picked up my luggage, went there, got ready and slept until 6am the following day.
Oct. 01. Sunday
The flag of Sardinia, which shows four Moors or Arabs (the flag is also called „Quattro Mori“ – four Moors), is a symbol of the completely autonomous time of the island with the four guidicati, who knew how to defend Sardinia and in which Sardinia was completely independent. Although the flag was definitely introduced later by the Aragonese (another occupying power)
The wake up through the loudspeaker system was much too early. But in the depth of the ship one does not know how far the boat is out on sea. I was up about 2h before being in the port of Olbia Found my car of course, but only with difficulties. Thought I had chosen the correct stairs but was proofed wrong. Once I had driven off the ferry, I followed my Google Map. It got me out of Olbia fine and towards my next site at the Centro Vacanze Isuledda https://www.isuledda.it . Again, I drove along as close as possible to the sea. Roads were small and huge busses were on its way as well. Saw fantastic granite stone formations formed by the erosion and had nice views into the Archipelago de la Maddalena www.voyagetips.com/en/la-maddalena and its various small islands. I liked what I saw. Sail- & Motorboats cruising the waters. Nice Cafés near the road once in a while, but I held steady until just 4km ahead of my campground. Its name: Café Del Sole https://www.facebook.com/agnese.serra.52 https://instagram.com/caffedelsolecannigione . Along the Costa Smeralda I have to say there are nice places; harbors with its boats but as well nice food places. As I saw it, it just drew me in. And it was a good choice. Besides nice decoration and furniture the food items on the menu were all kind of light and healthy. Avoiding of course the sweet items that were available as well. My choice was a toast with scrambled eggs and avocado. 2 Capuchinos went with it. The wait line in front of the camp site reception was quite long and I only could check in as my private bathroom was not ready by then. In the meantime, I went back onto the road and left for the famous Bear Rock https://rocciadellorso.com One of the impressive natural sights. Next was a stop at Porto Faro Beach www.sardegnaturismo.it/de/entdecken/porto-faro. The restaurant was already closed for the season and only the bar was open. A beer and some chips later I was on the road again. Drove towards Paulau, walked the center and choose Ristorante De Robertino http://www.darobertinopalau.com for a late lunch. It was a good choice. Had some gratinated mussels and a nice Gilthead with a glass of wine. By the time I returned to the campsite I did get my key for the bathroom and set up camp at my site. I envisioned an ensuite private bathroom next to my camp site as the once I experianced in WA, but it just meant that it was a private bathroom within the main general sanitary building with a key to it. The way it all worked and as it was organized was new to me, Information again not where it should have been for one that does not know the place. At the end I had figured it all out, but it could have been a much less painful experience. If I would had been here during high season, I would have tried to get another site. I was right next to the restaurants, the Ice-Crem Parlor as well as the amphitheater set up and to the now closed activity center next to a kids playground. Whatever went on in the evening calmed down at around 10pm and it was no issue anymore after that. For dinner it was just some slices off my 2-week-old salami that was hardened a bit by now. No alcohol any more just water all evening sitting next to my camper. Here the issue with mosquitos was obvious. Before even the sun went down they were around. Long sleeves shirts and trousers with additional anti mosquito lotion helped.
My overall impression of the Sardinia I saw today was very positive. Nice hotels and touristic amenities available. Not too many tourists anymore, but as on Elba there was a strong Swiss presence. They came to the island with the kids that either had their autumn vacation or were still at kindergarten age. The Germans, all Senior Citizens were here of course too. By now I realized that I was driving along the Emerald Coast that Agah Kahn made once famous by developing it for the famous and the rich. Explained the nice experiance😁
The landscape was much different to Elba. Wider spaces, valleys and not just hills to climb. The eroded granite formation gave it a special touch.
Oct. 02. Monday
Today a hinterland tour. Followed a description that I read about in my Guidebook. First was Arzachena. https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/arzachena I was lucky as I ran into the decoration of the stairs up to the Church St. Lucia https://arzachenaturismo.com/contenuti/479396/chiesa-scalinata-santa-lucia . I had read about it but did not remember that it was here. A nice coincident and quite different. On the way back to the car I also had a look at the small church Chiesa di San Pietro https://www.italia-italy.org/loc17963-chiese-arzachena/chiesa-san-pietro-arzachena The interesting part was a large sand drawn black and white picture at its floor just after entering it. It was Noon, but too early for me to have lunch. Looked at Goggle Map and found a restaurant at the Country Resort Aldiola https://www.aldiolacountry.com that was open and mainly serving their residents and strangers like me that found them one or the other way. Being a Monday, many restaurants were closed, and I was happy to have found one that was open. It was off the main road, but into the direction I wanted to go anyway. While entering the terrace, I and I don’t know why, started when entering the terrace to use my little French I speak. Having started that way instead of Spanish or my rudimentary Italian, she got me a French menu. Too embarrassing for me to correct the situation and was actually not sure of what I would get for lunch. I was lucky with my choice. 1. The kitchen provided good food. 2. Had some wonderful and enjoyable Pasta up front followed a steak. Had 2 glasses of a good local red with it. Looked at my book and its next recommendation. Wanted to visit an assembly of old olive trees called Olivastri Millenari https://olivastrimillenariluras.it/#foto. It was not far from my location but no through road at my side of the Lake de Liscia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Liscia to reach it. Had to go back and around the south side which took me about 30 minutes. A coffee at the entrance to the site of the old olive trees was 2€ the entrance to the site was 3€. The assembly consisted of 3 olive trees. It started with the oldest being approx. 4.500 years old and still of good structure and the other 2 were around 1.500 and 500 years old. Thought about visiting the next recommended city which was Tempio Pausania https://strictlysardinia.com/tempio-pausania-sardinia-guide . As described in the book nothing that special. Had a historic center but nothing out for the extraordinary. Just to check it off the list. By chance I found a wine shop and purchased 2 better, meaning pricier ones, in the hope more € = better wine. The once I had looked at on the internet were not on their shelfs. It will show if I was lucky to pick the once, I did pick. For the first time on Sardinia, I saw a sign that indicated that roads are plowed if snowing and that snow chains have to used, at that time. The roads where all day very curvy and avoiding hills was not an option. When I was driving at the posted speed limits, I was just about overrun by even the smallest cars. Hope I don’t get a ticket sent to Germany for driving too slowly😂. All in all, a nice day. I liked the lunch place and the lake. Again, strange granite formation all over.
Oct. 03. Tuesday
At 10am I was at the ticket office for the ferry to Isola La Maddalena https://www.voyagetips.com/en/la-maddalena/. A queue on one counter ticked me off. Also, the ferry left at 10:10 and 10 people were in front of me. The other counter from a smaller provider showed a 10:50 departure. This left me time for a coffee and time to take a few photos. I was after all on a vacation😁I did not much prepare for the ferry ride as everybody stated just go get your ticket and wait for the ferry. What I was unaware off was, that I belief it was Delcomar that had a 30 minute schedule while the one I choose La Maddalena Lines, just several times a day especially outside the high season. No problem for me. I was on vacation👍Maddalena is the largest of about 60 islands with a total inhabitance of approx. 12.000. After arrival I drove North. Missed a turn and ended up in a lovely beach area. No official parking and everybody just squeezed their cars against the slope, off the road as much as they could. Found a beach bar to stop for a drink and some chips. It was meant to be an aperitive. 1h or so later, I drove on as I had a particular restaurant for a small lunch in mind. Per Goggle Map it was open but in reality, it was not. And not for a while, meaning closed for the off-season. As I stopped to figure out my next move, I was approached by a security fellow that reminded me, that I could not stay here as it was private property. I did not start a conversation and went on just to come by another large private property with camera-controlled access. Later I saw the buildings from the road. Nested / squeezed in a bay wall to wall. Looked like it was built for the once with some money but not enough to have their own or free-standing house on a property along the Emerald Coast. On I went and crossed a small bay on a dam to the island of Caprera https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/caprera , of which most or all is a national park. There are 2 small museums. One dedicated to Garibaldi https://www.garibaldicaprera.beniculturali.it/garibaldi_l_eroe . A historic Italian freedom fighter. The other one for the Caprera Geo- Minerological https://www.sardegnacultura.it/en/articles/la-maddalena-caprera-museo-geo-mineralogico-naturalistico situation. I passed other opportunities and opted for lunch at the I Mille Bar Paninoteca https://www.facebook.com/pages/Paninoteca-i-Mille/663541857027649/ . It’s a wooden rustic shack with terrasse and a quite nice selection of different food items. I choose a salad which was the best one, while on Elba or Sardinia so far. The decision was early on challenged by the looks of the Burgers I saw. Most of the visitors were going for the burgers. By now I decided that nothing special to visit was left, beside the impressive views of the coastline etc. Therefore, I opted to return to the town of La Maddalena and the embarkation point. By now at around 2:15 pm all shops were closed, restaurants were full, and I had to look hard to find just a Café with a place to sit down and just have a coffee. Found it at Bar Pasticceria La Bomboniera. A Cappuccino and a nice sweet little something it was. As I sat there, I remembered that I wanted to try a SEADA https://wineandtravelitaly.com/food/seada which unfortunately they did not serve. I know now, that it consists of 2 thin layers of I guess puff paste and its filled with a thin layer of cheese. After it is deep fried all will be simmered in honey. Very sweet. I ran in to it on the way back to the ferry. Just 20 minutes left before the boarding started, but I wanted to try this Sardinian specialty here and now. I made it to the ferry and was back at the camp site at 4:15pm. Dinner followed. A smoked Salmon Trout from the German Pre-Alps that I purchased on the way to Elba. Still good and tasty. Once in the Van I watched two 1:30h long comedy episodes, streamed from the ARD Mediathek via the WIFI network on the camping site.
Oct. 04. Wednesday
Tomorrow is a transfer day. Not knowing the situation on the next campground, I opted to wash all used items and get ready for the second last relocation on the island during this trip. Washing went OK and the warm breeze dried all items in no time. Had also a nap in the afternoon and otherwise strolled around the neighborhood and wrote further on my notes. Lunch and dinner were small and still based on the items I carried with me. The choice of activity once the sun was down, was again, watching a streamed movie in the Camper.
Oct. 05. Thursday – Transfer Day
Before I started, I made myself some eggs and in no time, I had wasps again as visitors. Ended up eating it inside the Van. I checked-out at around 10am and went first to the Café di Sole again, which provided a superior Cappuccino. I drove on a slow pace on small roads going north and northwest towards my next Camp site at Pineta di Vignola Mare. First SP13 to Arzachena, SP115 to Bassacutena,
Passed bevor I reached Campovaglio on the SP70, a street display of paintings on bark and also some simple ceramic items caught my interest. Did not stop. But had to do that anyway, to get a picture of a discontinued query 200m later. A pool of rainwater had accumulated in front of the work zone and formed quite a large pond. Had no other opportunity for a close up shot of such a Quarrie. At the same time my interest in the exhibited artistic items close to the street drew me back. A barking dog was the receptionist and the artists best friend. Pietro the artist, was quite a personality. Had a car but had as I believe and not only by the look of his facial hairs, not been domesticated by a female. His cloths seemed to need some washing after some weeks of wearing them. He let me into the low built building with a little exhibition area. At the end I decided to get a bark with a simple coastal scene painted on it and not a ceramic item. Had found my souvenir from this trip. By entering these GPS coordinates 41.136801, 9.248102 into Google or Bing Map etc., you will see a street view photo and how the building looked like some time earlier. Not much changed besides windows and doors were fixed. Further on SP70 to Porto Pozzo which was not worth a stop. From there on SS133bis to Santa Teresa Gallura. A nice place with sufficient parking places in the midst of the town. Nice view from there along the coast and the nearby bay. I decided to have lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria il Grottino, Via del Mare, 14, 07028 Santa Teresa di Gallura +39 0789 754232. Quite expensive €40,50 for what it was, but also again very good pasta. Had Tortellini filled with cheese 😋 a small mixed salade, a beer and water with it. Not to forget the Crema Catalan, which even not on the menu its always available. Catalans were one of the many nations that occupied or tried to occupy Sardinia. The Catalan language is still around as well as parts of the recipes. The location was off the main drag, which was full of tourists that I tried to avoid. On I went via SP 90 using this narrow and windy road that also provided nice country views, but also saw the scars created in the landscape by the many Granite Quarries. Large trucks came towards me once in a while, with just one big block of granite on their trailer. I judged it to be square by 2 or 3m each side. That would give it a weight between 24 tons respectively 81 tons (3m x 3m x 3m x 3.000kgm3). I guess it’s rather 2m or 2,5 than 3m. Next stop was the Camping Village Baia blu La Tortuga in Vignola Mare http://www.campinglatortuga.com Lots of high pine trees that provided good shade and only 20 or 30% occupancy made it a nice stay but no contact besides a hello to fellow campers. The restaurant on site had the charm of a cafeteria. I decided to have my own dinner after a walk and a drink at a bar on the beach outside the campground. Allowed me to further reduce my accumulated food items from Elba and the once brought with me from Germany still in the cooler, still all good.
Today it was a real pleasure for me to see all these landscapes, beaches and villages. Again, the granite formations were great as well. Often the access was limited to a certain max. car size and weight. At the same time, I saw Offroad Campers that drove along the coast/beach, and I wondered if they would stay at a camp site or overnight or at the beaches. Normally that’s not allowed in Italy. However, I had spoken with an older German bloke at the ferry to Sardinia, that stated, that he came to Sardinia for 35 years and never stayed at a camp site🤷♀️
Oc. 06.10. Friday – Tour Day
Had my coffee and a croissant at the bar on site. Both were surprisingly good. Started driving at around 10:30. Drove south along SP90 again, the closest road to the sea. Turned right towards Costa Paradiso https://strictlysardinia.com/costa-paradiso-sardinia-guide . It’s kind of an enclave, designed and planned and built when sold. Most likely less costly as the Emerald Coast on the other side of the island. Its houses in certain areas looking more like a US designed suburb. Other individual once, more hidden and ducked away, also in kind of camouflage colors similar to the rocks surrounding them. None of any, more than 2 stories high. Very nice to look at but where there were too many, it was kind of upsetting. The coast was very rocky with some pools and wooden platforms to rest. Dogs were allowed here too. After a brief stop, I drove uphill again just to stop briefly at the Jolly Disco Bar to get another cup of coffee. Back at the main road I turned off the next exit and stopped to have a look at the Elephant Rock https://sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/elephants-rock Next to it, an older person sold small items out off his car’s trunk. He was a good salesperson. He sold me another little souvenir😂. A mere 2km later, before reaching the historic center. It gave me a nice view onto Castelsardo https://strictlysardinia.com/castelsardo-sardinia-guide with its Doria Castle sitting on top of it all. https://www.wonderfulsardinia.com/destinations/golfo-asinara/castelsardo I walked the small town, visited the Castello and the church and found a nice little restaurant at the end of lunch time La Schizzula di Satta Ignazio https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100041728635116 Had a good plate of pasta and a drink. No crema Catalan today. On my way home I turned left at the exit to Isola Rossa https://strictlysardinia.com/costa-paradiso-sardinia-guide/ . Had time and wanted to know what it would look like. A nice little port village. I was definitely late in the season. Most parking spaces and apartments were empty. I am sure next August or July it will look much different. The port took its name from a larger island/rock arrangement a short distance off the beach. Once back home no dinner after that late lunch but a stroll along the seafront where I also had a chance to see the sun go down as well as having a beer.
Oct. 07. Saturday – Transfer Day
Took it slowly. Had my breakfast again at site. Van was packed fast and easy. Had only the 2 chairs and the table out of the trunk. Departure after my morning routine including shower was at around 10am. Again, the goal was to take small roads and if possible, the once that I had not used before. That meant going south further inland. Off my campground and onto SP5. As I drove along for a while I, just for a split-second, saw kind of a granite structure off the main road. Turned right at the next possibility and bumped into a what I belief given up quarry. No name or additional information found this site either. Shortly after I left again. I entered the SS133. In Tempio Pausania I changed onto SS127 and stayed later on SS672 as the road split. I saw an eagle’s nest again but at the same time one of the many historic towers. Nuraghe Ruju https://www.donnanuragica.com/siti-archeologici-sardi/nuraghi/tzaramonte-chiaramonti-nuraghe-ruju right next to the street. I stopped illegally next to it on the street and took as quick as I could, my photos and moved on to the little village of Chiaramonti https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/explore/chiaramonti The hill on which the little town was arranged was crowned by a castle ruin. Some oversized wall paintings were interesting. I took the information off a flyer posted several times on lamp posts, that there was also a fest going on later in the afternoon. Unfortunately, I was not prepared to wait it out. Not much to see otherwise as also the church was closed. After having had a look at the castle ruins and its views from up there, I wandered some of the narrow streets left the town and was back at SS672 in no time. It did not take long before I saw one and later another church. It was Santissima Trinità di Saccargia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_Saccargia built in the byzantine style. Some other camper tourists were there. Also having lunch at Ristorante Saccargia https://www.ristorantesaccargia.com/ close to it. Had a nice and interesting looking Caprese Salad followed by a Seada. Next was the church. A small entrance fee was required. Impressive how well-kept this this old structure looked. Survived several hundred years. Many modern once have to be demolished after 30 or 40 years. Further on I drove and only stopped at the ticket counter of the Santuario pre-nuragico Monte d’Accoddi. An historic archaeological site https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_d%27Accoddi . It took me 15 minutes to figure out that Google had its location wrongly north of the Via Sassari and not south of it. I took the time to complain at Goggle. Was surprised, that they acted that quick as of now October 29th, they had the issue corrected. I drove on, passing Sassari & Porto Torres saving it for possibly next year. Walked the little Port di Stintino which, in the past, was also involved in tuna fishing https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/places/north-west/stintino Without much delay I went back to the car and drove towards my accommodation for the next 3 nights, Alghero and the Alghero Resort Country Hotel http://www.algheroresort.it . It was outside the city. Had dinner there at 8pm. It was a fixed menu. Not too many guests and as we were all reasonable Seniors, no one seemed to bother and eat what was presented. The pasta, was so far on Sardinia, just perfect, every time. The Calamari ok. Went to bed without munch delay.
08.10. Sunday – Alghero & Surrounding
Slept like a baby and was down for breakfast at around 9am. The owner sitting behind the receptionist desk. We talked a bit in English. She asked about dinner last night. I mentioned the perfect pasta. Apparently, a women cooked, and she was fishing, if I liked it or not. Of what little I know of Italy, I wondered why she was not sure that a lady cook would do a perfect job🤷♀️ Had in mind to drive along the coast today and see as much as possible of the sites I had marked on my tour book. First I went to Argentiere https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argentiera http://turismosassari.it/en/explore/sassari-without-barriers/item/517-the-argentiera-an-unusual-sassari-to-discover-through-mines-and-sea.html It’s an abandoned mining town. Its location was at the end of the main road. Around the center one sees some efforts of rebuilding certain industrial buildings. An industrial hall was changed into a Theater / Stage type site and looked quite nice. Outside the center, on the slopes of the hills, there are inhabited individual houses that at one time must have housed miners. No grass, just dust, soil and rocks. Tourists flocked in, to the beaches and the center. It was Sunday and over time towards lunch people visited the place and the beach over the hill. The Fast Caffè, Bar/Restaurant, was open and active. Kind of tailored rustic towards the HD biker community. Had a small lunch and a drink and left. Same road (SP18) back towards Alghero but turned right on SP69 and again at SP55bis. It got me to the Grotto Neptuno area and lucky me, I also found the one and only parking spot left – of course it was illegal parking🤷♀️. Had to walk 500m or so, to just find out that the next group would only start walking in 1:30h. That was a too long wait time for me. Went back to the car and found a beach bar at the Tramariglio Beach https://www.archimete.it/category/attivita/turismo-cultura/ . Had a beer and a sandwich and drove on back to Alghero to walk the historic downtown area. It’s a nice place. Had to have for its tourists of course a Ferris wheel. Which town these days doesn’t have one? Strolled through the port too. Talked to one of the men standing in front of their tourist boats and was told tomorrow at 13:30 they would have a tour to the Grotto Neptuno. The streets in the historic area were small but still a good number of shops. Some with better-quality clothing lines displayed in the windows. Some of the shops were closed possibly it being a Sunday today. I returned to the Hotel for dinner. Again, pasta and as a second, this time meat. Again, the pasta was better than the meat. Booked a massage for 9am the next day.
09.10. Monday – Alghero
Had a swollen right leg since a while and as my day today was not so full of any specific activity, I treated myself to a massage. A good portion of the time was allotted to a kind of lymphatic massage of my right leg. At 13:30 I was at the port, but a busload of people were lining up. I passed on that opportunity and was told that tomorrow at 10:15 would be another opportunity. I walked the city, had a Caprese for lunch and purchased some crackers for my good friend James. He seems to have some kind of addiction😉for these crackers. At the same time, I bought some Prosecco and 2 bottles of wine. Went back to the Hotel, organized my luggage, purchases and worked on my notes. For dinner it was Pasta and this time fish.
10.10. Tuesday – Grotto Neptuno, Olbia, Ferry to Genua
At the port on time just to figure out, at the time of boarding, that I could not purchase a ticket at the boat but had to run over to a building at the promenade to get one. 10 Minutes I had for that exercise. I was fast and on the boat in time. It took them about 45 minutes to reach the Grotto Neptuno area. Another boat in front of us dropped or picked up passengers so we did a little tour along the impressive and steep cliff. At one point there was even quite a large opening up in the middle of a rock formation, that one could see through. After 10 minutes or so we approached the Grotto and got off. We all had to pay 13€ entrance fee (same add. price as if walking down some 650 or so steps with a guide) just to then kind of in a goose march enter the cave and follow each other for 30 minutes. It was a great experience – just too many people. We were back at the Port at 12:45. We were lucky. A school of dolphins showed up briefly on the way back. Got into my Van and leaving the port immediately. Heading for Olbia. One last time crossing the island. It was again worth it. Low frequency of cars or trucks and nice views. My MOBBY ferry left at 21:30 and it should take 11h to reach Genua. Food items were terrible. Next time I’ll bring something with me on board. A sandwich is better than this food. I had booked a cabin. By 10:30 I was sleeping. There are also ferries leaving for Barcelona from Porto Torres and Genua as well as Corsica from the small Port of Santa Teresa Gallura – at least during the high season. From Cagliari I belief the only ferry destination of interest, when thinking about getting onto the Italian mainland, is Naples. I dream of a trip to take the ferry from there to Malta the next time I am on Sardinia.
11.10. Wednesday – Genua to Stuttgart
We arrived 1:15h late at the Port. It seemed as if we had to wait some time to get the Pilot on board. I did get a cup of coffee after all on bord. Better here than to wait another 2h or so for one at a rest stop. Had to buy 2 times additional Data for my phone on Sardinia due to high usage of Google Map and video streaming. Now I used my downloaded maps to navigate through Genua onto the Autostrada and towards Milano and Chiasso while my phone was on Flight Mode. I had made up my mind as I was driving, to use the San Bernardino route, rather than the St, Gotthard tunnel. While approaching the steeper parts towards the tunnel I saw at the right hand a publicity “Swiss Salmon” https://swisslachs.ch/en/ . Had to turn off at the Lostallo exit to visit this place. Was told there that they farm Salmon in the Swiss Alps now since 2015. Purchased some items, that had to go, with a discount, also as Souvenirs for family and friends. My items tasted well when eaten at home. Had not have any feedback otherwise. Only had one more stop at the “Heidiland” from Marchè. I love their food. The way they present it as well as the quality. Drove down the Rhine Valley and along the Lake of Constance on the Swiss side and turned North outside Winterthur to reach the Swiss/German Boarder at Thayngen and consequently the A81 Autobahn that got me into Stuttgart. Dropped off the Salmon at my Family. Also at Willy’s, where I had a small dinner as Markus’s birthday celebration was going on. Was home at around 7pm
4 interesting weeks on Elba and Sardinia ended. Learned a lot of new tings and collected tons of new unforgettable impressions, for my brain to sort and file now. To help it, above my not so perfect notes and some of the photos I took. When I write my notes, I hate the process. But later, as it has proven many times, it’s a good resource to refresh my memory and relive certain moments again.